nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I use two small nylon screws for the battery cover on my E-converted Sequel. Never loose a screw in flight.

I never tried magnets idea and thought the air flow from the prop could blow away the canopy, if it is not 100% secured.

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

The screws for the hatch won't really come loose unless you don't tighten them. We've been using that style setup for years on the giant-scale stuff with big, shaking, twin cylinder engines. An electric motor with a balanced prop won't generate enough vibration to loosen anything on the airplane.

Ideally I'd like to find some alternatives to make this a tool-free airplane for normal flying. Hatch latches and thumb screws or something.

stmdk

check this is out:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_94..._3/key_/tm.htm

CRAPTECH

YEP, that's what I need to do, make a latch for the hatch. I just don't want to find a tool evertime I want to change out the battier. The wind is going to be down in the morning, going out and see how it fly. let you all know...TMG

WWW.CRAPTECH.NET

CRAPTECH

First flight on the Wind S50, when out this morning, thought the wind would be down, but it was still 15-20kts, but flew anyway. Great little plane, more stable in the wind than I thought it would be. I was able to keep it at a very stable and control speed even on the down line. It is a little nose heavy with a 5000 mah battier. I think that if I were to do it again I would not use the pull-pull rudder, the weight of a little servo in that tail would be just about right. I think I need a little more down thrust in the motor, but I will wait until I fly it in a calm wind situation. I used the same setup as I had for my FocusII and it is about right. But I like this plane better. Unscrewing the hatch every time you want to change out the battier sucks, I am going to make a latch system. 16x10 apc prop, 5000mah battier, when I charge up I will let you know how much I had to put back in. I don’t have a watt meter but will hook up with someone and check that out tomorrow. Oh yes, it hovers well too. TMG

rjtw

Here are some pics on my take on a hatch latch, which replaces the existing screws.

CRAPTECH

FYI
I went back yesterday afternoon, winds still 10+ kts, I flew two flights, set the timer for 8 minutes, on the first flight i did the sportsman sequence, twice, once at normal speed and the second a little faster to squeeze it in. on the next flight did the sequence twice at normal speec, no screwing around. After charging last night put 3200 mah and 3600 mah back in the 5000 Turnigy battiers. TMG

WWW.CRAPTECH.NET

koakiss

hi everyone i am at the last stage of fitting the landing gear, i left it last because i am realy concerened of the strangth of the stock Sebart landing gear. i am thinking of making a pair out of CF or harder alu. Just wanted to hear from you guys who have already clocked some hours on the model. i will be doing most of the taking off on the 15m concret (localy but if going to a compitition who knows) like my angel but landing has to be done on grass when there is no wind to slow me down.
Does the stock hold up well? do they bend easily... i hate it when the model has a bent landing gear and does not sit level on the ground. plus with the lift generaters, a bent landing gear means more then just bad looks it will more or less effect the tracking.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I have the Wind 110. I was impressed by everything that came out of the box, until I got to the gear. Nice planes should have nice, light, strong, carbon gear, in my humble opinion. I don't use the 'lift generators' as I think this term is erroneous.

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

I'm using them myself. For the simple reason that they WILL add yaw authority for rolling maneuvers.

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I use them on my wind 110 too. I didn't however use the wheel pants. They were too small for the larger wheel pants I need to use at our club field. I really envy you guys that get to fly from pavement or really well manicured grass.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Joe,

I did try mine without and it definitely made a difference. That is a lot of side area lost. They do make a difference.

Arch

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Arch, maybe I'll make up a set then.

I still think Sebarts should come with CF gear - another $40 isn't going to change the fact that you get a great plane at a great price.

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I'm not understanding what's wrong with the gear as supplied. Is there some big benefit to CF gear that I'm just not aware of? The few sets I've owned ended up delaminating right at the bend coming out of the fuse.

rjtw

Unless you make a REALLYbad landing, Ican't imagine the landing gear getting bent out of shape.

koakiss

hmm lets write Sebart and ask if they would make a CF as a upgrade part, and see what he says.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

There are plenty of after market gear out there for this plane if someone wants it. I don't see the need. The plane flies great with what is supplied. This isn't expected to be a top level competition plane. This plane is entry level and the springy gear have their advantages with rough landings and such. I see no reason to swap them out for carbon gear. I have flown this years Masters and P sequence with no problems with mine, so it is more than capable, and it comes at a great price.

Arch

koakiss

can you send me a link please i would like to order one. i could not find one that is exactly the same or even close at any shops i have looked at so far. would hope that the lift generators can fit too.
Many thanks.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I don't know that there are drop in replacements, but any .60 size carbon gear will fit, you just may not be able to use the gear farings....I can't imagine that making after market gear for this specific plane would make much sense as it is a very small market.

Arch

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Was supposed to go out and put the first flights on my Wind 50 today but that wet stuff that comes from the sky screwed me over. Hopefully I'll get some blue skies and sunshine soon.

koakiss

Well I promised to up load my control connecters and here they are
This was from HK and dirt cheap so I gave it a go. Quality is 8 out of 10 because the plastic spacers were not long enough and rubbing of control horn against plastic appears, I put a washer that came with the wind between the ball bearing and the plastic spacer and its perfect. No slack and extremely smooth rotation.

rjtw

I'm trying to fine tune the knife edge trim. All the following are regarding left hand knife edge and with the CG at the leading edge of the wing tube (basically the middle point recommended by Sebart), plane trimmed to fly hands off level. I'm running stock thrust offsetsandboth wings have the same incidence.

Without the lift generators, the plane pulls to the canopy and rolls to the left.

With the lift generators, the plane pulls to the belly and rolls to the right.

Somewhere in between these two is neutral.

Has anyone else noticed similar tendencies, and have you done anything (besides radio trim) to try to neutralize them? Ideally I'd like to trim to make the plane as aerodynamicallyneutral as possible on knife edige without resorting to radio trims.

I have made a new, but somewhat narrower, set of lift generators. Thisis based on the observation that the lift generators tend to counteract the pull to the canopy and roll to the left. Theoretically somewhat smaller lift generators could be chosen to exactly neutralize either roll coupling, or pitch coupling, and hopefully (at least approximate) both at the same time. I haven't had a chance to try them yet. I should also add I'm happy with the way the plane handles generally at the CG I'm running, but of course thrust or incidence changes will require more of an operation.

If anyone else has played with CG, incidence, or thrust for a better solutionwith or without the generatorsI'd love to hear about it!!

Rick

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

My guess is with the landing gear lift generators, the effects of spiral slipstream are causing the rolling input. Pulling to the belly is probably due to the overall center of pressure moving forward, thereby moving the CG relative to the CP back. I would try moving the CG forward slightly from where it is now and re-test.

rjtw

Hi Doug,
That makes a lot of sense the lift generators are basically small wings and of course must move the CPforward! I'll definitely give a more forward CG a try.
On the rolling aspect,Ithinkthis is caused by the anhedral of the lift generators. They act like wings with anhedral and thus invoke a roll tendency opposite to applied rudder, which must accentuate the effect of the slipstream you mentioned.
It sounds like Imay be on the right track with smaller lift generators (I'll play with them until Ineutralize the roll tendency)and tune with more forward CGuntil pitch is neutralized.

Edit:After thinking about this a little more, Irealized that the anhedral effect of the lift generators not only induces opposite roll with applied rudder, but also may produce a net force perpendicular to and away from the belly ("downward") with applied rudder. Because this force is ahead of the CGit produces a tuck to the belly (which would add to what you mentioned, as well). I'm cautiously optimistic about the potential to tune this behaviour to positive ends.

Thanks for the input!!

koakiss

just got this finished today.
The magnets are from HK, i used metal epoxy to hold them down, it took one day for it to set and harden. will out another clear coat on it before i put them in the model.
They are very strong i put three, they are able to hold the weight of the whole model not only just the canopy.
Will take more photos when i get them glued in.
This is a good solution to change the battery easier.