New Sebart Wind 50E
#501

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(continue from previous post)
Picture 13:
Canteen barack where all personal had meals.
Picture 14:
Administration and office barack.
Picture 15:
Spanish riders around the base/buildings.
Picture 16:
Aircraft protection where aircrafts was parked out in the terrain around the airfield when not in use and also camouflaged.
At this field they flew planes like:
SAAB B17 dive bomber
http://www.avrosys.nu/aircraft/Bomb/157-b17/157B17.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2S6EZbujdw
One B17 is restored and flying even today (and it visited the old airfield here some years ago)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KSEJe4GhwQ
P51 Mustang (briefly after WW2)
http://www.avrosys.nu/aircraft/Jakt/114j26/114J26.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSkWjA7WOtw
Caproni Ca313 twin engine bomber (wood... also known as flying coffin...)
http://www.avrosys.nu/aircraft/Spani...s16/211S16.htm
Fiat CR42 biplane fighter
http://www.avrosys.nu/aircraft/Jakt/110j11/110J11.htm
etc.
Then when prop era ended and Jet age came this grass airfield was not needed anymore and later it became a civil airfield (and still is) but now also a culture reserve with aim to preserve this last remaining military war airfield from WW2 for future generations to visit and get a feeling how things was back then. Runways, gun towers, buildings etc are all restored to original condition.
Since it is somewhat "delikat" area now with culture reserve I fly only electric planes here so nobody can complain about noice.
/Bo
#502
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bem, you should consider using ball links at both ends of your aileron pushrods. The quick links on your aileron servo horns do not allow any movement in the vertical plane as the aileron horn/ball link moves. This puts undue stress on your servo output shaft. I would do the same for the elevator push rods.
#503

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Hi,
I know about thelinks but I used what was shipped with this Sebart kit.The connections at the horns at elevator actually allow movement fine since it is not rigid at the horn end, there is a small threaded pin and a small nut (Loctited) on the back. Butat aileronssince it is at servo horn the non ball link is I can see that it could be a problem but the throws are not so large so the stress on the servoshaft can not be that great but perhaps that contributed to the break of the BLS153 shaft.I prefer ball links in both ends for sure so I will probably change to all ball link solution.
Picture below from Sebart Wind S 50E manual how all links shipped with the kit is mounted and I followed it...
But good point, thanks 172amd.
/Bo
I know about thelinks but I used what was shipped with this Sebart kit.The connections at the horns at elevator actually allow movement fine since it is not rigid at the horn end, there is a small threaded pin and a small nut (Loctited) on the back. Butat aileronssince it is at servo horn the non ball link is I can see that it could be a problem but the throws are not so large so the stress on the servoshaft can not be that great but perhaps that contributed to the break of the BLS153 shaft.I prefer ball links in both ends for sure so I will probably change to all ball link solution.
Picture below from Sebart Wind S 50E manual how all links shipped with the kit is mounted and I followed it...
But good point, thanks 172amd.
/Bo
#504
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I used very little of the supplied hardware. Mostly because I wanted longer lasting easier to service SAE equivalent.
Biggest change was to clamp the front points of the elevator stabs together using an internal 6-32 blind nut and 2" nylon screw. This removed all the play that was present due to a slightly loose carbon tube and sleeve. Also nylon bolts threadded into tapped holes for stab tube retention instead of the supplied wood screws.
Thumb screws for wing and canopy retainers. 8-32 and 6-32 respectively, with changed blind nuts too.
Wheel pants held on by Sullivan pant mounts and wheel collars glued to opposite end.
I found the elevator control arm geometry was fine with a direct connection. Ball links are a good idea on the ailerons though. As others have said, if you use ball links on one end of the control, you really need them on both ends. We've seen non-ideal HW packs on many ARFs, so I'm very used to re-engineering a few things to get what I want.
Biggest change was to clamp the front points of the elevator stabs together using an internal 6-32 blind nut and 2" nylon screw. This removed all the play that was present due to a slightly loose carbon tube and sleeve. Also nylon bolts threadded into tapped holes for stab tube retention instead of the supplied wood screws.
Thumb screws for wing and canopy retainers. 8-32 and 6-32 respectively, with changed blind nuts too.
Wheel pants held on by Sullivan pant mounts and wheel collars glued to opposite end.
I found the elevator control arm geometry was fine with a direct connection. Ball links are a good idea on the ailerons though. As others have said, if you use ball links on one end of the control, you really need them on both ends. We've seen non-ideal HW packs on many ARFs, so I'm very used to re-engineering a few things to get what I want.
#505
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hey guys i am at home in Taiwan for holiday and had the chance to fly the Angel 50. it feels more stable then the wind 50. anyone else feel the same? But this angel was a bit over weight... this guy is using 6s 4500mah nanotech from HK but its placed all the way at the front just at the fire wall to get the right CG. could this be the reason it is flying more stable? over weight and nose heavy?
i know nose heavy is more stable but can the wind be made more stable by putting on bigger packs? i am on 6s 4000 right now and feel short time flying, if i remember right i got 7 and half min. out of one pack. i was thinking of up gradding my trex550 to 5000mah packs if the wind can also take it i will not hasitate to buy 4 more packs
i know nose heavy is more stable but can the wind be made more stable by putting on bigger packs? i am on 6s 4000 right now and feel short time flying, if i remember right i got 7 and half min. out of one pack. i was thinking of up gradding my trex550 to 5000mah packs if the wind can also take it i will not hasitate to buy 4 more packs
#506
Member

hi koakiss
im using for my Wind50 the Nanotech 6S 4500 25C, flying it around 7.5 minutes, when landing im putting into the pack about 3300 mAh.
cheers
im using for my Wind50 the Nanotech 6S 4500 25C, flying it around 7.5 minutes, when landing im putting into the pack about 3300 mAh.
cheers
#507

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Hi,
I use DesirePower V8 6 Cell (6S) 5200 mAh 35C in my Wind S50E. One such Lipo including the cables and connector (EC5) weight 760-770 gram (26.8 - 27.16 oz). Since I use the Hacker A50-16S V2 that is lighter (345 gram)then the original A50-16S V1 (395 gram) the LiPobattery should be a little more towards the nose with lighter A50-16S V2. On the other hand You can also balance withrudder servo in the tail or inside fuselage in the center spart. I fly usually 8 minutes but 9 minutes shouldbe no problem with this motor and LiPo combination and still have about 1000 mAh capacity left (about 20%). I use Castle Creations Phoenix ICE 100 ESC and use the built in BEC.
/Bo
I use DesirePower V8 6 Cell (6S) 5200 mAh 35C in my Wind S50E. One such Lipo including the cables and connector (EC5) weight 760-770 gram (26.8 - 27.16 oz). Since I use the Hacker A50-16S V2 that is lighter (345 gram)then the original A50-16S V1 (395 gram) the LiPobattery should be a little more towards the nose with lighter A50-16S V2. On the other hand You can also balance withrudder servo in the tail or inside fuselage in the center spart. I fly usually 8 minutes but 9 minutes shouldbe no problem with this motor and LiPo combination and still have about 1000 mAh capacity left (about 20%). I use Castle Creations Phoenix ICE 100 ESC and use the built in BEC.
/Bo
#508
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oh yes i agree with the servo back at the tail and not in the front within the fuse. makes a great difference. i guess thats why you could still have some play room with such a big cell.
#509
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ORIGINAL: stmdk
i did some minor changes to my Wind, im also using the HK plane suit, it fits very well except the landing gear area, but ts a real minor issue to fix.
i also did my first F3A competition and took the 3rd place
very nice plane
i did some minor changes to my Wind, im also using the HK plane suit, it fits very well except the landing gear area, but ts a real minor issue to fix.
i also did my first F3A competition and took the 3rd place

#510
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ORIGINAL: saucedo
Hi I have the wind and I was wondering if the plane is based on your hobby of king http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ane_Suits.html
ORIGINAL: stmdk
i did some minor changes to my Wind, im also using the HK plane suit, it fits very well except the landing gear area, but ts a real minor issue to fix.
i also did my first F3A competition and took the 3rd place
very nice plane
i did some minor changes to my Wind, im also using the HK plane suit, it fits very well except the landing gear area, but ts a real minor issue to fix.
i also did my first F3A competition and took the 3rd place

#511

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Hi,
Another 10 great flights yesterday with my Win S 50E. I use the the aileronsas flaps mixed with elevatorand I have set it on a 3 way switch for landing now and it works great to slow down the plane somewhat and getgreese landings. I really like the Wind S 50E. I managed to squeeze it in the back of my car with the wing mounted at one rain shower but it was no room to spare (I do not dare to transport the plane assembeled with the wings on,it takes just 5 minutes to mount the wings anyway so). I "toasted" my LiPo charger a while back and had to buy a new, the new one works fine (it is a Hyperion EOS 0720i Super DUO3 charger).
/Bo
Another 10 great flights yesterday with my Win S 50E. I use the the aileronsas flaps mixed with elevatorand I have set it on a 3 way switch for landing now and it works great to slow down the plane somewhat and getgreese landings. I really like the Wind S 50E. I managed to squeeze it in the back of my car with the wing mounted at one rain shower but it was no room to spare (I do not dare to transport the plane assembeled with the wings on,it takes just 5 minutes to mount the wings anyway so). I "toasted" my LiPo charger a while back and had to buy a new, the new one works fine (it is a Hyperion EOS 0720i Super DUO3 charger).
/Bo
#512

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Hi,
Another 9-10 great flights this evening after work. I stopped flying when the sun was going down and the moon had risen on the sky - both the sun and the moon was shining at the same time. A great evening, calm and comfortable temperature. I feel the fall is coming now.
/Bo
Another 9-10 great flights this evening after work. I stopped flying when the sun was going down and the moon had risen on the sky - both the sun and the moon was shining at the same time. A great evening, calm and comfortable temperature. I feel the fall is coming now.
/Bo
#513
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yes i agree it is starting to get a bit cold in the afternoon. but that means lower temp for the pack when they come down!! should change the charger into winter mode in a month or two.
#514

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Hi,
Another great sunny day today flying the Wind S 50Eat my club field.
/Bo
Image 1: The club field, aprox 100 x 30 meter short grass. Image 2+3: My plane at the club house. Image 4: Me in front of the club house. Image 5: Taxing out for start. Image 6: Ready for start. Image 7-10: some low fly by, an inverted loop, inverted flyby. Image 11: Landing.
#516

I’m assembling a Wind 50 now and wondering if I need to reinforce the landing gear mounting area. Anyone who have had issues with it during “normal†landings on grass runways?
Regards,
Henning
Regards,
Henning
#517
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nope no problem at all, you will need to take the wheel pants off, because that thing is going to get some damage everytime you takeoff and land. i did a full epoxy attachement between the lift generators and the landing gear for extra strength.
#518
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Its the same as the Angel. Had no issues with that or this one. The landing gear does flex quite alot so perhaps that takes some of the pressure of verticaly but since they can bend I guess they are strong enough. Aircraft are built to fly not to take into account bad arrivals.
#519

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Hi,
I have rather many flights/landings with my Wind S 50E now and I fly mostly from rough grass field and so far no problem with the landing gear. But I recommend to not mount the wheel pants and also use larger wheels then the 55 mm that is shipped with the kit. 60-65 mm diameter lightweight wheels is better.
These wheels are nice replacements I have heard:
http://www.espritmodel.com/wheels-li...minum-hub.aspx
But I replaced the originalweels with these 60 mm wheels (I do not know what brand it is):
http://www.rcflight.se/visaprodukt.aspx?id=341
/Bo
I have rather many flights/landings with my Wind S 50E now and I fly mostly from rough grass field and so far no problem with the landing gear. But I recommend to not mount the wheel pants and also use larger wheels then the 55 mm that is shipped with the kit. 60-65 mm diameter lightweight wheels is better.
These wheels are nice replacements I have heard:
http://www.espritmodel.com/wheels-li...minum-hub.aspx
But I replaced the originalweels with these 60 mm wheels (I do not know what brand it is):
http://www.rcflight.se/visaprodukt.aspx?id=341
/Bo
#520
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oh yes forgot about those wheels, i am using 85mm wheels of my yak, the wheels that came with the kit are way to small for grass, but if i had a run way or a very nice and trimed grass run way i would use the wheels and the pants. it looks not as nice as with the pants on. i guess this is the only draw back... the looks, i was hope sebart or other company have lager yellow pants i can use to fit the 85mm wheels.
#521

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Hi,
I managed to squeeze in 5 flights late in afternoon today Friday after work. 1/2 hour out to field, 1 hour flights and back home. It was really a fine evening but it was cold when I stopped flying, only 4 degrees Celisius / 39 Fahrenheit ... brrrrrr... my hands was cold last flight.
/Bo
Picture 1-3: In pit areaand ready for take off on side of runway(I had to use the airfield main runway for take off and landing because the grass was to tall on the model field we have in immediate vicinity of the full scale main runway). Picture 4: Ready for take off on last flight, the sun has just gone down under the horizon. Picture 5: I managed to capture a photo of my plane flying into the sunset. Picture 6: Took a picture on the wind sack in the sun setbefore I left the field. Picture 7: Ready to leave the field with the plane in the back of my car.
I managed to squeeze in 5 flights late in afternoon today Friday after work. 1/2 hour out to field, 1 hour flights and back home. It was really a fine evening but it was cold when I stopped flying, only 4 degrees Celisius / 39 Fahrenheit ... brrrrrr... my hands was cold last flight.
/Bo
Picture 1-3: In pit areaand ready for take off on side of runway(I had to use the airfield main runway for take off and landing because the grass was to tall on the model field we have in immediate vicinity of the full scale main runway). Picture 4: Ready for take off on last flight, the sun has just gone down under the horizon. Picture 5: I managed to capture a photo of my plane flying into the sunset. Picture 6: Took a picture on the wind sack in the sun setbefore I left the field. Picture 7: Ready to leave the field with the plane in the back of my car.
#522

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Hi,
Another 10 or so troublefree flights today at our club field with my Wind S 50E. It was very low ceiling to cloudbase, when doing a normal loop the model dissappered for a second or two at the top, same with wingovers. You almost get spoiled with a Wind S 50E - it flies and flies without any need for maintenance,it is really a no trouble plane to use and fly. Hats off to Sebart company that made this plane and for a price it is hard to complain about really. I think I will make skiis to it also so I can continue to enjoy this plane this winter also.I flew the smaller Sebart Angel S 30E last winter on skiis many times (see images below), I have Du-Bro skiis on it but they are too small for a Wind S 50E, at least in deeper new snow.
/Bo
Another 10 or so troublefree flights today at our club field with my Wind S 50E. It was very low ceiling to cloudbase, when doing a normal loop the model dissappered for a second or two at the top, same with wingovers. You almost get spoiled with a Wind S 50E - it flies and flies without any need for maintenance,it is really a no trouble plane to use and fly. Hats off to Sebart company that made this plane and for a price it is hard to complain about really. I think I will make skiis to it also so I can continue to enjoy this plane this winter also.I flew the smaller Sebart Angel S 30E last winter on skiis many times (see images below), I have Du-Bro skiis on it but they are too small for a Wind S 50E, at least in deeper new snow.
/Bo
#524
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I've been flying mine for a few months and just wanted to warn you guys to double check the integrity of your motor mount box.
I've been practiceing a lot of high speed snaps, and lucky for me I had a minor mishap in my dining room which knocked my motor mount box loose from the main former. It was really just a minor tap as I was carrying my plane tail up like a large fish hanging from the tail and the spinner bumped on an end-table on my way to the door). The bump was minor enough to not even leave a scratch on the spinner, yet the motor mount box separated cleanly! I then noticed the spinner rocking freely with motor attached floating in the cowl.
I didn't take any pics of my damage, but you can get the idea from the manual example photo where the culprit lies. This box has some G10 sheet laminated to the inside rear surface and that's what you bolt to the rear former. The G10 stayed with the main plane (held tightly by the bolts), but the front of the box, including the plywood interlocking parts cleanly separated all the way around. This was indicative of not enough glue being used to assemble the box.
I fixed mine by roughing up the G10 and then applying some FG strips with epoxy to the corners so it won't happen again. I should probably have done this the first time.
The pic shows bolting the box to the former. If you apply glass like I did, it would be best to remove the screws and first apply the glass, then re-screw the box in place. Else you can probably just squirt a lot of low viscosity glue into the plywood interlocking sections and get most of your strength if you suspect a dry joint like mine had.
fair warning,
Joe
I've been practiceing a lot of high speed snaps, and lucky for me I had a minor mishap in my dining room which knocked my motor mount box loose from the main former. It was really just a minor tap as I was carrying my plane tail up like a large fish hanging from the tail and the spinner bumped on an end-table on my way to the door). The bump was minor enough to not even leave a scratch on the spinner, yet the motor mount box separated cleanly! I then noticed the spinner rocking freely with motor attached floating in the cowl.
I didn't take any pics of my damage, but you can get the idea from the manual example photo where the culprit lies. This box has some G10 sheet laminated to the inside rear surface and that's what you bolt to the rear former. The G10 stayed with the main plane (held tightly by the bolts), but the front of the box, including the plywood interlocking parts cleanly separated all the way around. This was indicative of not enough glue being used to assemble the box.
I fixed mine by roughing up the G10 and then applying some FG strips with epoxy to the corners so it won't happen again. I should probably have done this the first time.
The pic shows bolting the box to the former. If you apply glass like I did, it would be best to remove the screws and first apply the glass, then re-screw the box in place. Else you can probably just squirt a lot of low viscosity glue into the plywood interlocking sections and get most of your strength if you suspect a dry joint like mine had.
fair warning,
Joe
#525
Member

last week my plane has crashed, i was starting the take-off that suddenly my motor's RPM drop down then my Wind stall and the result is in the pictures...
i checked the 6-cells and it was ok, my Rx baterry was ok, the TURNIGY motor seems to be ok, my only conculsion is the Turnigy K-Force 70A ESC !!
i guess i will never put again a chinesse ESC in such great planes...
im ordering now a new Wind50 and a new ESC: Hacker X-75 Opto in hope it will be better now.
fly safe and enjoy
i checked the 6-cells and it was ok, my Rx baterry was ok, the TURNIGY motor seems to be ok, my only conculsion is the Turnigy K-Force 70A ESC !!
i guess i will never put again a chinesse ESC in such great planes...
im ordering now a new Wind50 and a new ESC: Hacker X-75 Opto in hope it will be better now.
fly safe and enjoy