aerowhore

Hello all,

I was wondering if there is a concern when buying more powerful motors and the use of stock equipment? Boards and rotors in particular.

What are the risks of using an Ikarus G-310 Tuning Motor with a stock Aerohaewk?

I tried installing a High Authority Piccolo Tail Motor, (I think it is a 7.2V motor?), and I believe it to have blown my Gyro, and/or something else. No visible signs of damage have been found.

The Gyro did have a broken contact inside. I believe that this may have melted or fused when a powerful resistance, (due to the 7.2V motor,) was offered by the Gyro to counter a contradictory force.

I am not positive that was caused by the motor but everything was absolutely perfect before testing the motor.

So if one does have to upgrade other parts of their helicopter when they upgrade one part, such as a main or tail motor, how do you figure out what you need to do?

Is there a rule of thumb that when you go past certain level on any given item that you must then improve upon certain other parts so that they may then be able to 'keep-up' or properly support the new item?

Thank you all.....

gargoyle7

Hi aero*****, I am a modified Pic flyer, currently with an Picboard+/Orion setup, & have experimented heavily with various upgrades.

Basically, it is all 'trial & error', though I find posting your proposed upgrade on a knolwegeable BBS can be a big help, especially with posters who know their m-a-h from a-m-p's

Tail motors are notoriously tricky when deviating from the stock setup when it comes to current draw, not to mention the weight issue (going from a stock tail motor to a more high authority motor can cause serious CG issues, especially when using smaller battery packs such as a 2-cel LiPo versus 3).

What I DO know is the higher your RPM (with upgraded/brushless motors, etc) the more damage you incur per flight. On a G310 with stock blades, I could crash all day & be back in the air in minutes. But with my Orion/Hornet CF blade setup the damage is more frequent, including 2 cracked booms. SNAP-O!

Hope it helps

Lee (garg7)

+c0re-

Just my 2c here, I'm far from being an expert but thought I'd share.

I had to replace my tail motor also, I went for a piccolo replacement tail motor, apparently it is the new carbon brushed type which lasts a lot longer. I got it from ebay and the seller also sold a heatsink set, so I got one of those too. With the carbon brush piccolo motor and the heatsink on it, it's lasted very well so far. The motor is the same size as the original.

aerowhore

Sounds like it's pretty good. My Aerohawks' Tmotor seemed to die pretty fast.

What heli do you fly and is it stock? What is the name and model # of your piccolo replacement tail motor? What did it cost you?

quaker1

The gyro doesnt drive the tail motor directly but through an ESC, there must be another reason for it breaking like maybe a crash landing?

aerowhore

I agree with you. But the fact is that my gyro died directly after installing the High Authority Tmotor. It was fine before that, there were no crashes from the time it worked and the stock Tmotor died to the time I installed the H.A. Tmotor. Also, the Gyro does react to counter rotation and it does so by applying a level of electric current that is enough to steady the heli. If that current exceeds the load that can be carried by that microscopic wire, it will most likely fuse.

After much troubleshooting it came down to, 'I have a dead board,' and ordered a replacement. So I thought, lets have a look inside the Gyro, after reading about another flyer's exploits into his Gyro. I couldn't find a thing wrong with mine, but my friend started to fiddle around and got the thing working again.

And work it did. Only problem was, it was unstable. The Gyro kept going out. The problem was that a little wire that holds the ceramic tube inside the Gyro had fused/broken/separated, who knows really, I could barely see it. My friend was able to apply a small amount of pressure in the right place that would make the contact, and the Gyro would reboot. I was able to do this too after watching him. unfortunately it kept coming apart.

The person who I read about doing this was over at rcgroups.com I think his name was AEROHAWK and he claims to have fixed his and now even offers a service to fix other peoples Gyros.

We tried to emulate him, but failed. Now I really do have a dead Gyro.

I may well be wrong but this seems to make sense to me. Does anybody out there know more about boards and Gyros?

quaker1

You could always fit a seperate gyro between the receiver and the board, Just remember to turn the gain for the gyro on the board right down.