DSTroy

Hello! I am new to this site so please be gentle.

I just got an A-10 kit. and have been scouring this site for some of the construction tips. The foam seems pretty brittle. I am considering some reinforcing with strapping tape, any tips? I see people talking about oiling the motors, but how about motor break in? Any other tips that would help an "A-10 Newbie" are welcome.

Thanks

rdeis

My Feedback: (1)

There are some good threads on construction tips over on Ezone, but there really aren't any surprises. I think a tutorial on how to fly one would be more helpful-- especially since most of us aren't well practised with airplanes that don't have enough thrust to drag us our of trouble. (-:

I ran carbon tow for reinforcement on mine, but it seems like most people didn't bother and didn't find it necessary unless they had a power upgrade.

Everyone says to drop the gear and gear servo to save weight. The EDF-50s don't have any reserve power, so getting the weight down is very helpful. That said, I saw a guy fly one in the field house up here (6100ft) in stock form, Ni batteries, gear, and all, and he didn't seem to have any trouble... (Must be a better pilot than me.)

Given the number of people that have broken up on their hand-toss maiden flights, I'd keep the gear at first and pull it out later. Setting up a pull-pull to the nose gear from the aileron servo does let you drop the gear servo, though.

Mine's getting pretty close- I'm anxious to take some pictures and post them.

tegwin

Where did u get ur kit from??? how much did u pay

michpittsman

My Feedback: (11)

I have thirty flights on mine; have burned up two motors(both on LH side!); no tape, no gear, pull the props off and put a tiny drop of oil on the front bushing-it can't hurt-mine balanced perfectly but needed gobs of up trim to fly level; run 7 and 8 cell nimh packs; according to Nick Ziroli in MAN review, the nicd pack is the way to go, but mine flies marginally/quite nicely, depending on the batt I use. Pactra spray enamel did the Viet Nam camo as a test for a big Bronco currently being finished. I used 5 min epoxy and Ace bandage to hold the fuse together evenly while it cured. Good luck! JIM

docpaul

Thanks for the info guys. I just completed mine and despite trying several different batteries including a 6 cell 7.2V/600mAh NI-CD, I have been unsuccessful in getting mine to fly! I have heard that GWS has just brought out and EDF-55 motor, but hey, that won't help us! How do you replace one on this beauty with the motors epoxied in?
Any good suggestions? What batteries seem to get this model airborne?
-Paul
Phoenix, AZ

rdeis

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Several online shops are blowing them out cheap to make room for the EDF-55 versions.

rdeis

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How can that be? If you need up trim to fly level, either your CG is way forward or your incidence is off, and given that the incidence is molded, in I'd suspect the former.

The flyers around here say that it is extremely sensitive to CG location-- and that may have a lot to do with it's sordid reputation. If your power is on the low side and your CG is forward, you're screwed! (GWS Zero had a very poor CG reccomendation in the book, maybe A10 has a similar problem?)

Try shifting back a few mm and see if that helps.

DSTroy

Thanks, for the input guys.
I put mine together over the weekend. It went together real quick.

The Battery compartment and hatch is designed for a flat pack. The batteries I have and wanted to use are 8 cell 9.6 volt / 730 mAh, NiMh "folded" packs. They are a little too wide for the hatch, that will need to be modified. has anyone made this type of modification, and if so, how did you make and secure the new hatch.

By the way, I recently learned the hard way that you can't underestimate the importance of a secure battery hatch. On the last (and final) flight of my last plane....There I was, enjoying the wild blue, 150 ft. alt. or so, when I noticed something fall from my plane. Based on the speed of the objects decent, I was pretty sure what it was, as it hit the ground before I even heard or noticed that the motor had quit! For a breif moment, I thought "dead stick landing, no problem". I had been used to the voltage-cutoff, that cuts the motor but still allows for flight control. Brief moment indeed, I still can't belive how fast that thing auggered in! Were talking lawn dart!

So, any ways guys, the moral of the story is. Electric flight is great... but only with electricity.

rdeis

My Feedback: (1)

I cut the cockpit out to make a top-access hatch. It's held on by tongue-n-groove in the front, magnets in back. I didn't cut the plastic mold reinforcements in the stock battery hatch, so there's a 1/2" deep compartment above the stock hatch where I mounted the ESC. Batteries fit in above that. It's not "positive" so there's a small chance of losing parts in a negative-G situation. I may add a velcro strap around the battery to guard against that...

I've seen pics of two others that were modified by removing the stock hatch and replacing it with a balsa or similar door. Clasp on the door was a servo arm over a screw. Screw was glued in, servo arm could pivot away to open the door, or over it to hold it shut.

acechauta

I am new to this site but am trying to find out some info about my recent purchase, the GWS A-10. I have only been flying for about 5 months and picked it up incredibly quick since I have loved planes since I was a kid. Anywho, just wanted to know if the rumors i hear are true about this plane having the tendency to be built over it's intended weight and that there is no spare power in this thing at all. I am worried b/c I am about 10 mins. from having it built and i have already used the entire container of GWS glue along with some of my own CA. I wanted to see if any other A-10 owners out there have any tips to someone who's on their first ARF plane on how to lighten the aircraft or on how to get my hands on these EDF 55s i keep hearing about. Thanks!
-Shaun

rdeis

My Feedback: (1)

Most common tips for weight reduction are to lose the gear and use Lithum power.

This airplane is *VERY* sensitive to CG location, and flies on the wing instead of the prop. I keep hearing 57mm as teh CG spot, so that's where mine is set. I'll let you know how it goes...

DSTroy

Rdeis, Thanks for the ideas on battery hatch modifications. My packs fit very nicely in the cockpit. As you know this location is an inch or two forward of stock battery hatch. I guess what I need to do is check balance before I make a decision on what way to go. If the stock location would require (nose) weight to balance, I will opt for the cockpit and use the batteries weight to the best advantage and avoid additional dead weight.

Question to you guys, Did you have to add any weight and if so how much?

acechauta

Thanks for the tips. i was still wondering though about the EDF 55s and if anyone has heard where you can buy them. i guess the other issue on that would be how to replace the 50s. i guess you could just rip the nacelles off the sides and somehow get new nacelles from GWS and install the 55s. anyone know anything on that?

rdeis

My Feedback: (1)

I did not have to add weight, but I have a very heavy receiver- it passed for "micro" in 92. (-:

Even with the heavy receiver, though, I actually moved my engine nacells 5-6mm *back* to get the CG right. Reccomend you do a mock-up of final assembly with gear installed and check the CG before gluing stuff in.

I just thought of another wild idea last night and installed it- I joined the engine nacell haves with hatch magnets so I can take the outboard side off to access the motor. I figure I can use gap seal tape to keep the seams clean and smooth in the duct and it will be just as if they were glued and taped.

rdeis

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I brought the hog to work today to taxi around and generally check out during lunch. The nosewheel is not-quite-completely ineffective for steering with a little breeze on.

Bad news is that I took it on a high speed run, hit a bump, and found myself airborne in a steep climb with not nearly enough airspeed. It bounced once or twice and got generally dinged up. Broke the motor pylons- I think I'll add bamboo there as well.

Good news is that other than the motor pylons there was no structural damage despite hitting nose first pretty hard. I'll have to fix it and try tomorrow. (-:

DSTroy

First Flight Report.

Had to feed in full up trim to fly level, balance was at 57 mm back as recommended. Had some motor hesitation and did not have enough umph! So..my landing was a little premature and a little hard. I too broke off one of the pylons holding the motor nacelle. So I used Rdeis's idea but used toothpicks for added support.

Building Tip: If I ever built one of these again. It would certainly be with the 55's. They would have even more need of added support in the pylons to support the motor nacelles. I Would push a couple of toothpicks on through each pylon, glue them is place and trim them flush.

As I sit here writing this I am thinking of how I can reinforce my undamaged pylon..with a pair of pliers or hemostats push the toothpicks from the inside of the nacelle though the nacelle and into the pylon and fuselage and then glue it in place.

The motor hesitation was corrected by eliminating the connectors and extra wire from between the Y'harness to the ESC and soldering them directly, a lot cleaner.

Second try: It flew! a lot of up trim but it flew! I got in two 8-10 minute flights before I burned up both motors. So...I guess 9.6 Volt packs are too much! Well I'll learn. So now I need to order up some new motors, and some smaller batteries would be a good idea too! Have any of you out there replaced the CN12-RLC motors with the CN12 RXC's, would there be any advantage or disadvantage.

Thanks, Neil (DSTroy)

SteveR

My Feedback: (1)

Hi,

Have had two great flights with my EDF-55 version. 8 cell 770mAh pack with no undercarriage, not exactly overpowered, but enough to get to 40ft! Flight times are around 10 - 13 mins.

However, I do seem to have a little trouble with interferrance. The motors kick, full down elevator and left aileron. Caught it on the first flight and landed, not so lucky on the second one!! I am just waiting for the epoxy to dry, holding the nose back together!! Argh!

Initially built straigth from stock (minus the undercarraige) I needed all the weight to bring the C of G into limits. However, I also needed 1/2 up elevator to maintain level. I removed 1/2 the weight for the second flight, better, but still a handful of uptrim required. I have now removed all the weight, but (now I have some extra access into the nose!!!!!) I have moved the RX into this bay. Saved me 50g of weight and I am hoping will get the Rx far enough away from the ESC to stop the Interferrance. The ESC is in the middle of the 'wing hatch.'

Anybody else had glitches? My nacells are glued on with 24hr epoxy and withstood the 'accident' but the nose does seem to be weak.

If I build another I would certainly apply some glass cloth with resin into the front nose section before I glue the halfs togther.

Steve

jcomp

Looking for a supplier for the EDF-55 motor conversion with nacells.
Can anyone help.

famousdave

My Feedback: (61)

It looks pretty cool, but reminds me too much of the Zero.... flies like a brick (not at all??) Everyone here seems to have experience flying but no one can get it to fly well. Of course, everyone insists on bigger batteries and/or modifying it from stock which ALWAYS adds weight. (although I am the king of mods myself, so I cannot fault anyone for this!!)

Based on what I have read I decided to nix the A10 and go with the F22 instead. I have seen and flown one of these and can say the F22s fly great out of the box if you build and balance to the book. (read - NO MODS that add weight).....

Good luck with the A10..... sounds like a brick to me..

Da Pig

swingman

My Feedback: (77)

Are you talking about the Wattage F22? I have often wanted to try to fly it, but I have not had much success with foam planes and not-so smooth landings...

kramer

My Feedback: (61)

Has anyone tried replacing the 3 bladed props with the 5 blade props?

mgfliby

My Feedback: (2)

I was wondering the same thing! 5 blades will look so cool!

I just finished mine and test flew it before finishing the paint, etc. Truly stock setup w/ 7.2v Ni-cad, 600mah. After about 5 high speed taxi's I realized that this thing needs a lot of up trim. I ended up hand launching with the elevator centered at about 5 clicks up. This was because I knocked off one of my main gear(I forgot to epoxy it in...only CA tacked it! DUH!) I pulled of the other one, didn't epoxy that one either, and said what the hell. Let's do this!

I was attempting to take off straight, slow climb, trim her off and then land. Well, wind had another flight plan in mind. Shallow bank left straight toward some trees. Went full thrust, pulled up and realized that this thing was going to stall before it cleared any 40 ft tree. I decided to shut her down and put her down quick! I landed, relative term, 6 feet short of the HUGE trees and only suffered a small crack in the mid-section of the fuselage. Epoxy'ed her up and she is ready for her next flight.

I will report back later this week.

kramer

My Feedback: (61)

5 blade should add up to a couple more oz.(as per GWS's specs) of thrust,I'm putting them on mine to see

JVamooska

Just came back from the field with whats left of the A-10. IMHO, I think GWS released this plane without it's customers in mind. An aircraft stright out of the box and well assembled, should at least be able to climb out to a decent altitude. I used the lightest available electronics and a 7.4V Li/poly. Yea, the model looks great in the air...until you try to climb with it. Its a shame that that's the first purchase I have made from them....might very well be my last......sad. On a scale of 1 to 10 for value scale with ten being the highest....I give it a 1.5...tops

mgfliby

My Feedback: (2)

I finally had a chance to fly my A-10, not once but twice! BONE STOCK set-up too. Only a 7.2, 600 mah Ni-cad as well. I will agree that there is no reserve power no enough to do a loop from level flight, but after a lot of nose up trim, and trimming out the ailerons and also shortening the throw, I had a blast. A couple high speed passes, and tight turns, two nice landings the neighbors finally had to come and see this beauty!

I am ordering the five blades with the 55's today. After I try the blades only on the stock 50's, I will most likely add the engines too!

Matt