Greg Covey

The new [link=http://www.vertigoaircraft.com/]VERTIGO[/link] Rebel from [link=http://www.airshowrc.com/rebel_vertigo.html]AirShowRC[/link] is a fully aerobatic composite sport jet that can use either a P-60 size turbine engine or 120mm EDF. Designed for the advanced pilot, the Rebel has full-house flying surfaces along with leading edge slats for 3D maneuvers.

Options include a Vertigo 127mm EDF Fan, Air Retracts, CNC Trailing link spring struts, and Aluminum Jet Wheels Combo.

Specifications:[ul][*] Wingspan: 1554mm (61 inches)[*] Length: 1535mm (60 inches)[*] Wing Area: 2540 sq. cm. (1000 sq. in.)[*] Airframe weight: 8.5lbs[*] All Up Flying Weight Electric with 12s LiPo: 14lbs[*] Receiver: 6-channel[*] Servos: 13
[/ul]Features:[ul][*] Designed for turbine or EDF[*] All Epoxy Composite with Carbon fiber axles and hard points[*] Full flying stabilizers[*] Full rudder / air brakes[*] Leading edge slats[*] Retractable landing gear[*] Fully aerobatic[/ul]

Greg Covey

The parts were very well packed in the box and held by custom cardboard sections. All the composite parts were wrapped in foam and then sealed in plastic. The finish appeared perfect on the first piece I unwrapped.

Greg Covey

After unwrapping more of the parts, I found them to all be in perfect condition. Each piece was solid and strong. They did not bend or twist.

I inspected the glue joints on each of the wing halves and found them to be very well done. There were no weak or missed spots.

The air retracts, CNC trailing link struts, and aluminum wheels were all excellent quality. All the components needed to complete the landing gear system were included in this option.

It takes a while to unwrap these parts but the first layer was done. Time to check out the main components in the box and I will then reveal my new power system for the Rebel.

Greg Covey

I started unwrapping some of the parts from the bottom section of the box. In addition to the parts feeling solid, I noticed that they were quite clean. There was no power residue or dust. Many of the internal plywood parts were also etched with labels. This will become more obvious when I post photos of the main fuselage.

Shown here are the left and right booms along with the exhaust tube and top hatch cover.

Greg Covey

A closer look at the fuselage reveals more of the quality construction. The composite glass is a high quality and the formers are all properly glued in place, exhibiting no weakness. I liked the etched areas used to label various holes and openings.

On this unique design, the booms extend the fuselage length to 60 inches. There are both air intake ducts and an exhaust duct.

Greg Covey

The remainder of the kit parts, that were all individually wrapped, shows some serious mold work and attention to details. All the composite covers are pre-cut. Only the canopy plastic needs to be cut from the molding.

The parts shown here include the nose piece, exhaust ducting, leading edge slats, covers, canopy sections, ailerons (or elevators), aluminum support tubes, metal control rods and clevises.

Greg Covey

The new 120mm EDF from RC Lander will power the VERTIGO Rebel. On a 12s LiPo supply, it will provide around 3800-4000 watts. The Lander 120mm EDF is a fully assembled and balanced unit with motor and comes impressively wrapped.

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

Cant wait to see this build thread.

Greg Covey

Thanks. I checked out your site and it looks like you have quite an impressive hangar. We plan to do some 3D maneuvers with the VERTIGO Rebel so let me know what you think.

My other power system components with be the new ICE HV 80 ESC from [link=http://www.castlecreations.com/products/phoenix_ice_hv.html]Castle Creations[/link] and a pair of 6s 5050mAh (30C) LiPo packs from Enerland. I'll use their innovative Data Logging feature to measure voltage, current, power, and RPMs.

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

I have the 1st prototype Rebel at home, but havent built yet. will follow this thread with interest, and if there is anything i could do to help please let me know.

Greg Covey

Ok, thank you for the offer.

The Rebel assembly begins by mounting the EDF unit. My RC Lander 120mm fan has a choice of using the trumpet-like opening or unscrewing it from the main section for a straight pipe. Since the Rebel air intake combiner opening was about 127mm, the wider trumpet-like opening fit very well.

I used some 1" wide sticky-back rubber stripping to help seal the opening. It can compress just inside the combiner tubing and then be taped on top, if needed.

The RC Lander fans come with clamshell clamps for mounting. There is a generous 5/8" layered plywood base to mount the EDF to the fuselage so I used four 1" long wood screws.

The remaining rectangular opening on the top of the intake combiner is for air flow to the ESC. At this time, I am not certain where I will mount the Castle Creations ICE HV80 ESC so it will be revisited later.

Greg Covey

A few cuts with the Dremel tool and the exhaust ducting fits like a glove. I needed to cut a pattern for the motor wire vane on the side of both pieces used. The section with the green masking tape still on gets discarded. Once again, I used some of my rubber stripping to make up the difference between my 120mm DF and the 127mm tube.

Note that each piece ends inside the next piece as you go aft. The tail cone holds the center piece in place so that it cannot move forward or backward. The result is a very clean air flow that is "told" where go to.

Airframe Inventer

How clean is that? You make it look easy, sweet and simple.
When I designed the tail cone exhaust, I think I remember makingthe stock out of the
mold exit 85% or 87% FSA for a 127mm fan. I think we have a different story now.
I am interested in your findings.

Greg Covey

I calculated the FSA for the Lander 120mm DF at about 13.7 sq. inches. I prefer to convert my metric numbers into inches so here is a short list of what I used.[ul][*] 75mm (2.95")[*] 90mm (3.5")[*] 95mm (3.74")[*] 120mm (4.72")[*] 127mm (5")[/ul]I measured the range of opening on the tail tube to go from 75mm (as it is now) to 95mm when cut flush with the tail cowl. The 95mm opening will provide an 80% FSA so it should fine.

Greg Covey

All the parts needed to assemble the wheel and strut are included in the retract kit. This includes the retract mounting screws.

To mount the retract in the proper position, I needed to cut away a small section of plywood. When mounting the nose gear, it is important to check both up and down positions before screwing it in place. The wheel should be centered in the well when retracted and the strut should not hit the fuselage when the retract is down.

Greg Covey

The Castle ICE HV80 ESC motor wires were extended by 14" to allow me to position it in the side pocket between the retract mount and outer shell. The fit is so perfect that the pressure is sufficient to hold the ESC in place. The battery leads run right into the tray compartment so no extra holes are needed to install the ESC. The motor wires are run to the opposite side through a gap in the outside of the combiner ducting.

The ESC is rated for a continuous 80 amps at 12s with only 5mph air flow. This level will only be seen at full throttle so it is a robust setup that should not be stressed.

I added some 4mm bullet connectors I had on hand to mate with the RC Lander motor wires. I also installed my anti-spark 100 ohm resistor on the ground lead which has worked flawlessly on many previous applications. Simply touch the resistor wire before connecting the bullets and no spark!

chalmrast

My Feedback: (1)

I've seen Richard bringing this plane to several fun-fly's & whatnot around AZ but have never seen one fly... has one ever flown?

The parts appear to be well made & finished well.

But, why an 80A ESC?..... I have heard that ESC's are most efficient when running at their max rating... and it will see 80+amps regardless of your throttle management as per Castle's own FAQ's... see note 3.. So perhaps it's OK given there's probably a safety margin of at least 10% built into the ICE unit.

http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...eral.html#esc3


Also, please correct me if I'm wrong, but in order to do "3D" maneuvers this fan will have to be able to produce over 14lbs of thrust, no?

Looking forward to seeing it fly.

Chad

Greg Covey

The booms each mount with what appeared to be 3mm x 30mm hex head screws. The non-threaded part was a bit too long so I added several washers to each screw to take up the gap. A 3mm driver was used to install the screws.

The fit was perfect on the fuselage and all three mating holes lined up on each side. Very nice!

rorrock

When I get my sample unit in, I will test it with a RAMTEC EDF versiona and scoprion matched motor..
It pulls a lot of amps.. ~150A... but it also puts out 22Lb of thrust at 12S..

Rob

Greg Covey

Hi Rob,

Sounds like a fun setup so keep us posted.

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Here are some spare parts in the bag from the photos above. They are included in the kit for your convenience. The top left 2 pieces are the motor mount. The 2 right top pieces are the back stop for the air bottle. The last four are the motor mount formers if you need to mount the EDF lower down into the fuselage.

It looks like I will be removing the booms since there is no way to screw on the wings to the booms once they are attached to the fuselage. Not a problem since it is just three screws per boom.

The recommend assembly order is as follows:
1) Install servos, leading edge slats, and ailerons in the wing.
2) Install elevator, rudder, and retracts in the booms. It has been suggested to use bearings on the rudder axle.
3) Attach the wings to the booms.
4) Attach the wing/boom assembly to the fuselage.

Airframe Inventer

I like the picture of the fuselage/boom assembly, Looks like a spaceship?

Greg Covey

Yeah, like [link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpaceShipOne]SpaceShipOne[/link].

Greg Covey

I cut the tail cone section away using a Dremel tool and then sanded the end. For a slight color change, I added some black trim tape to the end and then colored the bare fiberglass with a black marker. The collar was glued in place using V-poxy.

Greg Covey

The ailerons were installed using the supplied pivot point hinges; four per wing. I used a 9/64" drill bit to make the holes. The hinges were lightly sanded to help the epoxy adhere to the surface. They also have rings on the pins which will help the glue to seal it in place.

I injected BVM V-poxy into all the holes and then coated the pivot hinges before inserting them. This technique should provide a strong bond. Make sure that all four hinges are done together so the alignment can be tested before taping. The ailerons should swing at least 45 degrees in either direction.

I then set the wings aside to dry overnight.

Greg Covey

The aileron servo and linkage installation was a little tricky so I became inventive.

First, you either need a right angle screwdriver to secure the stock servo screws or use your own like the Dubro #527 No. 4x1/2" Button Head screws so you can you a normal hex wrench. I used a JR DS821 Digital Sport servo with the stock screws and a right angle screwdriver.

Next, you need to cut an opening for the metal control horn so it can be anchored into the wood at the base of the aileron. I managed to use one screw to anchor it into the wood and then surrounded the entire area with V-poxy. The end result was very solid.

The supplied linkage parts worked well and made a secure, slop-free connection between the servo arm and control horn. Keepers were provided for both ends.

Once the aileron was tested using a live receiver and Rx. battery pack, I unscrewed the threaded clevis and nut and secured it with Locktite before re-assembling it.

The control horn opening was covered with some scrap pieces that were CA'ed in place and the servo cover was mounted using 7 small screws supplied in the kit.