Bronco pilot

Hello, I am a glow pilot who has an interest in electric. I got a Flyzone Switch for Christmas. I have no electric experience. I've been flying glow since I was nine, and I am a teenager. Does anyone have advice or tips about the Switch? Tips on flying electrics are welcome as well. Thanks, and have a great day.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

Welcome to RCU. I guess to buy a extra (cheaper) battery and at least a cheap 50 watt charger after a while. Read the manual, it is good source. You'll love the switch (TWICE)

Bronco pilot

I got the TxR, so it came with a balance charger and two chords.(wall and car) I also got a second battery. Is there a balance charger that will charge my 1800 mAh battery in less than two and a half hours? Also does this plane have any bad habits, or major differences than flying a glow plane? Such as faster reaction times, or have you heard about any problems with the anylink?

jdetray

There is a pretty comprehensive guide to electric flight right here on this forum:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7100376/tm.htm]EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT[/link]

It should answer most of your questions.

Good luck!

- Jeff

guver

My Feedback: (325)

Many of the cheap 50 watt chinese clone chargers will do the job in 30 minutes or so. I like to recommend them cuz they're cheap , but many don;t like dealing with cheap stuff from HobbyKing. The cheapest one is the HK X and the best one is probably the accucel 6. $17 or $23

I've heard a couple of stray reports on anylink troubles, but nothing conclusive yet. You'll have no problems with the switch (maybe nose-over in the grass or bending the gear) , and you'll be moving the wing down in no time. Maybe is a good idea to set a timer until you KNOW how long it flies. Mine flies 12 minutes with an OLD tired 3sx3000 pack.

Bronco pilot

Does any of those cheaper chargers charge multiple battery's at a time? Cuz that would be convenient. What types of problems have you heard? We're they using certain radios?

Chucksolo69

Not really except that remember that when you test things, make sure you take the prop off. Electric props start instantly when the throttle stick is moved. You could also install an on/off switch too.

I fly two of my lanes with the AnyLink..............no problems whatsoever.

Bronco pilot

My dad made that mistake, but I held it. somehow the throttle was reversed, but I held it and he reversed it. How would you install the switch? A
switch sounds like a fantastic idea.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

The difference between flying electric and glow is the torque from the electric motor is immediate as opposed to the glow engine. Also be aware the electric is always HOT so as mentioned always remove the prop when doing any work or testing and when at the field make sure the plane is secure (on a flight table) when connecting the battery and arming it.
I've heard good and bad about the switch but you already have it so just enjoy it.
As far as a charger you can look at any of the first three here as an example plus they sell very good lipos for a decent price:
www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/chargers.html

Here is a charge board that will allow up to 6 same size batteries to be charged at once:
www.valuehobby.com/accessories/charge-discharge-wires/parallel-charging-board-deans.html

I don't know what connector the swift uses but you may have to change the planes ESC and the battery you have to Deans connectors if you go the abouve route.

Bronco pilot

The Anylink isn't alive till you talk to it, in other words till you go open throttle then back down to nothing before the engine is alive with your stick. As of battery's that isn't my problem a charger is a minor problem for me. The charger that came with the plane takes two and a half hours, and I would like to get a quicker charge so I can spend more time flying and less time charging. I would like the charger to not cost $50+ so I can not blow all my money from Christmas on a charger.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

To connect a safety or arming switch to the ESC you would need to locate the wire coming from the ESC (speed control) that connects to the receiver. It will have 3 colored wires either brown/red/orange or black/red/white. You will want to cut either the orange or white lead and insert (solder) the switch between the cut wires. Obviously you will have to extend the wires if you want to switch mounted on the outside of the plane. What this will do is when the switch is off there will be no signal coming from the receiver when you plug the battery in and the ESC will not arm. After the battery is connected you can turn the switch on and the ESC will then arm the motor.

Bronco pilot

ESC arms the motor but you have to tell the ESC you want to arm the motor. The on/off switch would only be used to turn off the battery while I carry it back from runway, so I don't have a fully armed plane in my hands.

on my hand

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

You will need a switch capable of handling 30-40 amps and it will weigh the plane down if you want to do that !
The way I outlined above requires a simple low amp lightweight switch you would find on a glow engine plane and it will disarm and arm the motor.

Bronco pilot

Well I want a switch so I can turn off the battery so I can turn off my transmitter, not disarm the motor.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

If that's what you want then you need to get a 30- 40 amp rated switch similar to this:

www.ebay.com/itm/Rebco-Toggle-Switch-With-Rubber-Cover-30-Amp-Each-160-1470-/390518736081

and cut the red wire between the connector and the esc and wire it in.

You can also use a Deans connector and plug and make an switch using those as well.
You really don't need either of these on a small plane like this. The signal switch would suffice.

Bronco pilot

Okay thanks for the helpful advice. I will try to find one to make this plane work for me. Happy flying!

BrokenSpoke

This is what you are looking for. It is called ArmSafe and it is specifically made for electric RC planes. Many of the guys I fly with use them on their electrics. It allows you to have the battery plugged into the motor but without any power to the motor until you "arm" the system.

http://www.sharprc.com/catalog/index...kjihp1cavvl9t4

Here is the installation PDF

http://www.sharprc.com/literature/ArmSafe-Brochure.pdf

Bronco pilot

Which one do I want? The link you attached had 6 options. Would I be able to turn the plane off and my transmitter and not have the motor go haywire? Muy dad made that mistake haha, it was really scary. Will that interfere with the Anylink system?

BrokenSpoke

The 3 across the top of the link are spare parts so to speak. The 3 across the bottom are the complete kits, you will want the full kit, with the wire guage based on the amps your motor uses: see page 2 of the PDF

Which one do you need? I have no idea but if you call them with your plane information I am sure they can tell you.

Basically, the ArmSafe completes the circuit and allows your planes motor to receive power. With the arming plug removed, the circuit is open, or not complete, so there is no way for anything to happen. No power is sent to the motor. You can have the battery connected, your tansmitter on, and nothing happens because no power is provided. Read the PDF as it pretty much explains everything you need to know.

Bronco pilot

Do you use this product? What sized motor and battery do you use if you do use it. The switch uses a super tiger .10 with a 1800 MaH battery. If you have a similar set up what one did you get?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I only use an arming switch on my larger electrics, 90-120 size and up running 10-12 + cells as they can be very dangerous when left armed. Everything below that size I don't use any arming switch, I just power the transmitter on, plug in the battery in the plane, wait for it to arm and go fly. When it comes in just pop the hatch and disconnect the battery in the plane.
I make mine using a female Deans in the plane and a male with a shunt as the "plug" . Similar to what is sold on that site but it only cost a few dollars to make you own.
In my opinion you don't need it on small planes like the one you have.

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

I'm not aware of a system that will safely let you shut down the transmitter while the plane is still on/armed. 

Bronco pilot

This plane has a screw on canopy , which is why I want a switch or something to disarm so so I'm not working on a live plane. Also I think it would just be easier to be able to leave the battery in travel to the feild, switch everything in and fly. Okay, does anyone know of any lower market chargers that will charge multiple batteries, and charge a 1800 MaH battery in less than 2 1/2 hours?

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

If the charger is at all capable, it will charge a Lipo in a little over an hour, usually under 1:30. That's a 1C charge. Some of the newer, costlier batteries can take a 3C-5C charge, which will get your charge time down to 15-20 minutes. 

Bronco pilot

As of right how I'm just using the balance charger that came with the plane but it only has one input is it takes forever. I have two battery's and it's takes 5 hours to do both. 100 is a little pricey and it could've gone up, ill have to do some research. If you have any good ideas on a charger let me know cuz I need one.