slgilley

The Slow Stick is my first build, I realize it isn't difficult, but still I have some questions that I'd like to ask.

The instructions give two alternate ways to build the tail. One attaches the rudder/elevator with only a piece of double sided tape, the other uses screws to hold them on. I used the double sided tape method -- is that strong enough? Should I go ahead and drill and add the screws as well? (And while we're at it, at one point the instructions in the same section tell you to cut the main tube and then reattach it with a connector. *Why* would anyone ever do that? I can understand attaching the tail feathers only with screws, but why cut the tube?)

As long as the center of balance is appropriately placed on the wings, is it important how far the wings are from the motor? Mine are set a couple of inches or so back from the motor, and CB seems okay, but I'm wondering if it would be better if they were further forward.

Thanks,

Sean.

Nitroaddict

Most people concur that the tail feathers should utilize a combo of both methods, using the tape and bolting them on. I went with just the instructions method of tape only, and crashed alot learning to fly, and never had a problem.

The instructions tell you to use the fuse joiner but I didnt, as recommended by this forum.

BJAZ

Most people say to tape and bolt the tail feathers but I use epoxy and haven't had any problems. As far as cutting the fuse I would definately not cut the fuse. They offer the option to make it easier to transport but In my opinion it's easy to transport without cutting the fuse. I went with the measurements in the manual for wing placement. Good luck.

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

The fuse joiner and bolted-on tail allow you to break the plane down for easier storage and transport. Omitting the fuse joiner and permanently attaching the tail with the double-sided tape is what you would do if you don't have a sub-compact car jammed with crap, and don't mind transporting it completely assembled.

Balancing the plane properly is the most important thing. Don't worry about the location of the wing on this plane.

Dopesick

Proper balance is definatly a thing to watch!.. As for the tail feathers. I should have posted this as a "mod" for them.

I reinforced mine by laying 2 layers of 2 inch wide packing tape on both sides of the rudder and elevator closest the the edges where they mount to the fuse.

Basically your laminating the mounting areas with packing tape.

Stiffens it up really well!

Other then that, the removable tail deal... Uhh Ditch it. Balance points on mine are as per the book. I'm running a GWS mini-std (2075-Futaba shift) flight pack minus the battery, I'm running a Thunder Power 2100 mAh Li-po.

mabman

Proper balance is mentioned quite a few times in these messages....Please tell a newby how this is accomplished with a slow stick..
Do you hang it up by a string and slide the string back and forth to determine where it balances then move the wing center of gravity point back to that point on the fuselage ??? Probably a dumb way of doing it but its all I can think of..any good suggestions

Thanks

mabman

Its mabman with another newby question....I am installing servos and stuff on a slow stick and I have a GWS speed controler ( ICS-300E) which has a heat sink in the package unattached. Also a little piece of rubber with one sticky side and a plastic sleeve. If this heat sink is to be attached which side of the speed control should it go on the back side or the side with the ID label on it ? The plastic sleeve sliced over the controler and heat sink to hold them loosely together.
Another question...should the receiver be mounted with some protective covering..thin foam sheet or something to protect it (Just in case of a crash !!! ha-ha)

Thanks for you help in the balance question in my first note and the answer to these two.

csisfun

I think you could use a string... What i did is to put on the wing, measure the CG where it's supposed to be, and put my fingers under the marking of the CG that I made. Then balance from there. Move parts here and there... etc.

I think the black rubbery thing is a heatshrink something, which I didn't know how to use and instead I just zip tied everything together.

antiquerookie

I'm another newbie learning on a slow stick. Re CG locating, here's what works for me. I measured back from the wing LE the distance given in the instructions for the 300 motor (the one I'm using) and marked the bottom of the wing center "rib". I then made a 1/8 dia hole halfway up the rib, using a hand held drill bit. I put a 10 penny nail through the hole. Support the ready to fly SS by the nail only and observe its angle. I shift the battery, servos, etc. until the airplane is a little nose down, couple of degrees or so. Take the nail out and you're ready to go. I carry the nail in my field kit so I can check the CG after "entertaining events".

Re prop savers, I use one with good results. I use two Office Depot 2 1/2 in. rubber bands, each with three loops across the prop. The prop shaft has to be cut off right at the end of the second nut or the prop will hang on the shaft and break. The only time the prop saver didn't work was when I hit a large utility pole head on.

Dopesick

I see that alot of newer fliers are having some problems here. SO I will list what I do to verify my CG on my slowstick.

First off, You are given a mesurement from leading edge of the wing.. Measure out from the center rib of the wing, on the UNDERSIDE, along the front reinforcement rod 3-1/2"-4" Mark a spot, measure into the wing surface from the leading edge, using a hobby square (or 90* protractor!) and place a mark on the wing @ the given mesurement for CG behind Leading edge.

You will now have a dot on the wing, Do the same proceedure for the other side. Now to check your CG for the fuselage you can now balance the plane on those dots on our finger tips.

btw: A slightly NOSE heavy slowstick is a HAPPY slowstick.


Prop Savers.... www.gwsexpert.com sells pack of 2 props in most sizes for $3.99 A prop saver really is un-needed. What you will find works much better, is when coming in contact with the ground, completely cut the throttle. Most of the time you prop will only snap when spinning.

Also, I Learned in the R/C Car world, "Boil Treating" plastic parts to re-inforce them. I havent tried this with GWS props yet. I will do so, and give info for it.

csisfun

Hey, any ideas why the Slope glider version can have the CG so far back? How will the plane perform if this was executed on the powered version?

Dopesick

yes, the CG is so far back, due to the Battery, being the ONLY front weight. The balance of the motor, and electrics area is the only true wieght on the powered version.

On the slope, all you have is the battery, and possibly servo's depending on what size servo's you go with, but since weight is an issue with gliders, you would usually use the lightest/smallest you can get. Thereby elimination any true usable weight from them.

csisfun

OK Fine, but why are they suggesting the CG be so far back? How would this affect performance in the powered version?