Patxipt

Guys,

I just bought a Hyperion Piper Cub 10e at the LHS after flirting for many months the display model.
The model's fuse is all built from lite-ply, although the firewall is thin, so I'll have it reinforced, as well as all the nearby wood joints with epoxy.
I'm going to put my PAW 09BR RC in it, turning either a 8x6 or 9x6 prop.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Pat, keep us posted, that ought to be a great set up.

Mr Cox

A PAW 06 might be enough and the PAW 09 could probably hover that plane, the data are not that different from the TT scooter and mine is well overpowered by the 09.

If I can get a better throttling I'll probably keep it though...

Patxipt

Mr Cox, try a smaller prop. I find my PAW 09 to throttle great on a 7" prop, medium spooling on a 8" prop and sloooow spooling on a 9" prop

The engine mount had been fabricated from 3mm 6-layer ply, epoxyed and fiberglassed in place. The firewall has been reinforced with a piece of the same 3mm ply.
The airplane, as is, balances right in front of the front window...

Mr Cox

Smaller? It already screams on an 8x4 prop...
It is the idle which is the problem, it will not come down enough to land and the 1.5 oz tank last for about 20-25 minutes.
I was thinking of trying a 9x4 next time to get a lower idle.

How much sidethrust do you have on your engine?

Patxipt

Just enough I hope, I kinda eye-balled it from the cowling(which broke like glass, seems like a piece of plain epoxy or poliester molding, no fiber). I was hoping no one would ask that

BTW, the fuel tank I have is around 75 or 100cc, so I'll grow old and have grandchildren by the time it lands

Mr Cox

It looks like a lot of side thrust to me. On my planes I can hardly see it unless I carefully measure the distance to the prop from the vertical stab. I only aim for about 1-2° and that works for me.

Patxipt

OK, time to cut the engine mount and make a new one. Thanks for the info

AMB

Patxipt Before you make a new mount this is the method I use ( on at least 4 or 5 electric to diesel conversions just epoxy a piece of 1/8 ply cut to the same size as the original firewall you add some tri stock between the inside of the original wall and the fuse sides use a dubro or hayes plastic mount and just drill for cap screws and use blind nuts on the back you can of course use vertical or horizonal position and drill your fuel line and throttle holes quick and easy all the wood and the back gets a coat of thinned epoxy to fuel proof including all the structure to the first bulkhead martin

yuo can shim the mount for side and down thrust just measure before drilling to center the crank where it belongs ( the mount of course is offset to do this

vauxhall

I'm doing a diesel conversion on an electric ARTF Cub also. I have a PAW .049 diesel to use, no throttle. Rudder and elevator control. Just like the good old days.....John

greggles47

I hate to rain on your parade, but 3mm ply looks very skinny to me. I'd like at least 5mm.

I could be wrong I've never run a PAW 09 on less than 10mm square hardwood bearers.

regards

G

Patxipt

Thanks for your inputs. I'll see how it flies with the 09, it it proves to be too much and cracks the firewall, I'll have to get me a 049 or 06 (my PAW 033 is probably a bit weak). The firewall is now around 5mm thick, considering the original ply firewall.

AMB

Greggles you can also use 2x3mm pieces of ply if you're concerned. i have not used wood mounts in years, with the readymades no oil soak issues martin Paxipt nice installation

greggles47

I agree Martin, a nice looking installation.

My comment was based on my view of the original set of pics which showed a 3mm horizontal engine mount. DOubling that would have been sufficient, the side thrust is a different matter all together.

Regards

Greg

PSmate, there's no need to yell!

AMB

HI Greegles not yelling forgot to takeoff the cap lock on the key board and too lazy to redue nice clean engine install will be easier to keep clean too with out all
the wood in the way too martin

Patxipt

I'm considering moving the fuel tank below the tray; as is, the bottom of the fuel tank is almost leveled with the spray-bar.

_________________________
Just one question off-topic (I'm not able to make a new topic, RCU software problems it seems): I'm considering converting another MiniMag to IC, but this time to diesel.
From my experiments, the foam does not dissolve in the fuel, but rather soaks up and softens to the point one can easily tear it apart witha somewhat plastic feeling (depron like?).
I was thinking about proofing the plane with a coat of epoxy. Just in case, does the exhaust usually contain any ether/kerosene residues that could lead to medium-time impregnation and subsequent damage of the plane?

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Diesel exhaust will have little to no ether. If it has any at all, it will shortly evaporate. There will be some amount of kerosene in the exhaust, this too will be small. If you are running with the needle well leaned out residual kerosene will be minimal. If you search for ways to finish foam, you'll find plenty, but epoxy probabaly won't be what you want. Unreinforced epoxy is brittle and will crack. It might even crack while curing due to shrinkage. I don't like foam models so I can't help you with finish on them.

AMB

Paxipt on my electric conversions I did cut and lower the battery tray so the fuel pickup was in line with the carb martin

Kostas1

It looks really nice!

We want moreee

Mr Cox

Have you considered placing the engine higher instead, it looks like it is sitting too low for cowl anyway?

The engine mount can be turned upside down and possibly be placed under the engine beams etc...

Patxipt

If I turn the engine mount upside down, the silencer won't clear it.  Also, the engine beams won't clear the engine mount it I move the engine up the bearers.
Give me some days, I got a drill chucked on my wrist and can't work on my models for some time.

AMB

why not flip the mount 90 degrees and mount it on its side, that puts the exhaust out the bottom: martin
whoops forgot the compression bar would be a cowl issue, using my tt and os10s davis heads use an allen screw so cowls in nice with just a smal hole for the wrench in the side of the cowl. of course depends if the head fits without s big round cowl in the sdifr of cowl

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Replace the tommy bar with a socket head machine screw to adjust compression?

AMB

Fiery brillant idea should work martin
now if I can upload the pix of the new tt10 it does make a nice xcreen saver

vauxhall

You'll need a 2 BA thread on that capscrew.