Kiortz pb400 40 cc questions
01-28-2014, 12:17 PM
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Kiortz pb400 40 cc questions
I'd post photos for illustration but RCU seems to want to make it too difficult to do so
I just got a $25 Kiortz 40cc engine. It has been converted to a single, 5/16-24 prop stud, (I think). The stud is slightly bent, and I'd like to replace it. I used a torch, carefully, to warm the stud hoping it was epoxied or locktited in and would loosen with heat. No luck. The prop adapter is an aluminum cylinder with no flats.
The ignition wire has shielding installed The red wire connecting the points(?) in the backplate to the coil (?) up front has been broken and repaired, (soldered).
I'd like to get the prop stud replaced or straightened. I wonder about getting the adapter off and adding a couple of pins for the prop. As it is, tightening the prop bolt will be fun.
Can the broken wire be replaced? Or do I need a new coil (Echo parts?) Sudden thought. Should the on/off switch be installed at this break?
My hope is to use this engine in a 1/4 scale Fokker DVII, but it needs to be working before I start cutting wood.
Martin
I just got a $25 Kiortz 40cc engine. It has been converted to a single, 5/16-24 prop stud, (I think). The stud is slightly bent, and I'd like to replace it. I used a torch, carefully, to warm the stud hoping it was epoxied or locktited in and would loosen with heat. No luck. The prop adapter is an aluminum cylinder with no flats.
The ignition wire has shielding installed The red wire connecting the points(?) in the backplate to the coil (?) up front has been broken and repaired, (soldered).
I'd like to get the prop stud replaced or straightened. I wonder about getting the adapter off and adding a couple of pins for the prop. As it is, tightening the prop bolt will be fun.
Can the broken wire be replaced? Or do I need a new coil (Echo parts?) Sudden thought. Should the on/off switch be installed at this break?
My hope is to use this engine in a 1/4 scale Fokker DVII, but it needs to be working before I start cutting wood.
Martin
Last edited by Nieuport nut; 01-28-2014 at 12:39 PM. Reason: thought about something else
01-28-2014, 10:22 PM
#2
I would seriously recommend upgrading that old guy to RCEXL electronic ignition. Try http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html Only 45 bucks and they are the best 45 you will spend on that engine. As for the bent prop stud, you have to double nut it and heat the hub and get it out of there and replace it. No pins for the prop. They are unnecessary and undesirable.
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
01-29-2014, 08:33 AM
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Thanks AV8TOR. I did the double nut method and after some more heat, it came out. As luck would have it, I had the 5/16 UNF tap I needed to chase the threads and get the last of the Locktite out. I'm going to try it out with the present ignition system, but will go electronic if all goes well. From what I've read, these engines were pretty easy to start, (Timoth4 in the scale forum).
Martin
Martin
01-29-2014, 09:01 AM
#4
The points ignitions are really "old tech" and will allow the timing to drift. It is doubtful that you will find parts for that ignition as well. I would convert it to RCEXL myself. Much better ignition for only a few bucks. I rather doubt those old ignitions had an advance system, which the RCEXL does. So it would start, idle, and transition better with the new ignition.
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
