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Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline

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Electronic solutions to modifying glow engines of all sizes to gasoline

Old 06-25-2022, 07:22 AM
  #51  
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What happened? everyone's gone quiet.
Old 06-25-2022, 08:03 AM
  #52  
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I don't think anything happened.... Number of participants here is not yet at the same level as it was over on :censored: and development wise we have reached some sort of equilibrium.
Those following need time to implement things on their engines, and as said, not all of them are allready aware of us having moved to over here.

Give it time, it will pick up, I am sure.
Old 06-25-2022, 04:47 PM
  #53  
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Well, I have messed about with the Stihl carb a bit more. Its a bit of a shoe horn fit under the cowl on the pa-18, I need to move everything forward a minimum of an 1/8" ( 3.175 mm ) to clear the firewall. It really ticks me off, I don't want to remount the cowl, and if I just move the engine forward there is no room forward to cut the cowl around the engine for the additional clearance, plus the prop drive hub will stick out the cowl near a 1/4" ( 6.35 mm ) So, I'm leaning towards getting another walbro ( same model carb that's on the engine ) and core out the hi/lo needles to fit the solenoid valve. No moving the engine or remounting the cowl would be needed, there's plenty of room for the solenoid to hang below the carb where the needles are positioned on the original carb. Either do that, or I find another airframe and start with a fresh install.

In addition, I haven't worked on the Sopwith Pup, I've been commandeered by a friend to make scale details for his Cessna 170 Tundra. I have plenty of things to do, just not enough time in a day to do them. I was out at the flight club this afternoon, was very humid, didn't even take any of the cubs to fly, but it was busy over there which is a good sign, people are starting to return to some normalcy, except gas being $7 bucks a gallon here.
Old 06-25-2022, 10:40 PM
  #54  
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That's a bummer, if the Stihl carb won't fit under the cowl...

7 bucks a gallon? You lucky *******.... Over here it's the equivalent of $9,50
Old 06-26-2022, 10:49 AM
  #55  
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It fits Brutus, but it requires some modification that causes a bit of a frustration is all. That engine was a shoe horn fit in the model to begin with, the prop drive hub ended up 1 1/8" ( 28.575 mm ) forward of where it was suppose to be in the instructions, so the cowl was moved forward the same amount, that was with a new uncut cowl at the time. Replacement cowls are unavailable, as that particular model isn't made anymore. I'm on the edge already of the engine being way forward than its suppose to be, now I need to move it forward another 1/8" ( 3.175 mm ). Maybe I can make some extension tabs that just moves the cowl mounting holes forward. I'm at a quandary, as its not just about functionality, but also about the aesthetics, right now you can't really see she's long in the nose, the graphics still all line up, but with that additional 1/8", things start to go awry. I know you are the type that just gets in there and gets it done, but I'm of the type that won't except a compromise easily, I'll beat a dead horse until it wanes.
Old 06-26-2022, 10:52 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by John_M_ View Post
It fits Brutus, but it requires some modification that causes a bit of a frustration is all. That engine was a shoe horn fit in the model to begin with, the prop drive hub ended up 1 1/8" ( 28.575 mm ) forward of where it was suppose to be in the instructions, so the cowl was moved forward the same amount, that was with a new uncut cowl at the time. Replacement cowls are unavailable, as that particular model isn't made anymore. I'm on the edge already of the engine being way forward than its suppose to be, now I need to move it forward another 1/8" ( 3.175 mm ). Maybe I can make some extension tabs that just moves the cowl mounting holes forward. I'm at a quandary, as its not just about functionality, but also about the aesthetics, right now you can't really see she's long in the nose, the graphics still all line up, but with that additional 1/8", things start to go awry. I know you are the type that just gets in there and gets it done, but I'm of the type that won't except a compromise easily, I'll beat a dead horse until it wanes.
Which engine are we talking about exactly?
Old 06-26-2022, 11:04 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus View Post
Which engine are we talking about exactly?
That Gaui F-50R
Old 06-26-2022, 11:07 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by John_M_ View Post
That Gaui F-50R
Ah, yes, that one... Unfortunately I am not familiar enough with that engines exact layout and dimensions to be of any assistance in coming up with a possible solution
Old 06-26-2022, 11:50 AM
  #59  
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The "R" version (rear carb) is the only one that would fit without hacking up the cowl detail too much. The "S" version (side carb) would fit as per the instructions on engine mounting / spacing, but only in the inverted position, but that hacks all the lower cowl detail, as the cylinder protrudes fully through the bottom of the cowl. The OS GF40 fit beautifully, until I put the big heavy wheels on the model, and it became a little sluggish, hence the upgrade to the F-50R.

Here's a youtube video of a guy with the exact same model as mine (1/4 scale super cub), but he put a Saito FG-61TS twin in the nose, the rocker covers just protrude the cowl each side, but way over powered,

Old 06-26-2022, 07:58 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by John_M_ View Post
What happened? everyone's gone quiet.

I hit a busy spot at work with a couple of heavy weeks back to back. That’s passed now so I might get a bit of shop time now.

I have a pressure regulator almost ready to trial but it has been sitting waiting for the last part to be made.

hoping on some progress reports soon.
Old 06-29-2022, 03:01 PM
  #61  
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Post hackaday update needed?

Just crossd my otherwise empty mind that there was a link from the "hack a day" website to the initional url.
https://hackaday.com/2022/01/22/runn...s-on-gasoline/

Might be a suggestion to leave a comment there mentioning this topic?
Old 06-29-2022, 09:09 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by cmulder View Post
Just crossd my otherwise empty mind that there was a link from the "hack a day" website to the initional url.
https://hackaday.com/2022/01/22/runn...s-on-gasoline/

Might be a suggestion to leave a comment there mentioning this topic?
Forgot all about that one...
Old 07-01-2022, 03:29 AM
  #63  
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hers my experience end trouble shooting with the solinoid driver from Raleighcopter. I am clib mate of brutus he gave me 2 month ago the life version to test it out. In the beginning the system works perfect. But after 1 month the driver runs stuck end the solinoid staid on a fix number. Last wekend I managed to vind the reason of this problem it wat the on off switch of the plane that head a false connection or resistant. Switched it out to a xt30.
in flight the only difference i can tel was the rx bat head a big voltage difference from 6.5v full bat on the first flight en dropt to 6.2v in the same flight.

sorry about my beat English 🙈.

kind regards rob
Old 07-01-2022, 06:46 AM
  #64  
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Lightbulb "stuck" in what way?

Originally Posted by Rob.m View Post
hers my experience end trouble shooting with the solinoid driver from Raleighcopter. I am clib mate of brutus he gave me 2 month ago the life version to test it out. In the beginning the system works perfect. But after 1 month the driver runs stuck end the solinoid staid on a fix number. Last wekend I managed to vind the reason of this problem it wat the on off switch of the plane that head a false connection or resistant. Switched it out to a xt30.
in flight the only difference i can tel was the rx bat head a big voltage difference from 6.5v full bat on the first flight en dropt to 6.2v in the same flight.

sorry about my beat English 🙈.

kind regards rob
With stuck you mean that you could not change the settings from your transmitter or did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position).

This kind of "feedback" about how the system behaves when things go wrong is verry usefull to improve it and make fixing problem easier.





Old 07-01-2022, 07:00 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by cmulder View Post
With stuck you mean that you could not change the settings from your transmitter or did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position).
Just to help Rob out (I saw some of the issues a few weeks back): indeed it appears like the controller more or less freezes and the output value for the solenoid remains the same regardless of stick position or pressure/temp imput.

Originally Posted by cmulder View Post
This kind of "feedback" about how the system behaves when things go wrong is verry usefull to improve it and make fixing problem easier.
That is why I encouraged him to directly participate, because despite his english being not great (don't worry Rob, we still understand it, and if not there's always google translate ) his observations are direct observations, mine are 2nd hand.

Bert
Old 07-01-2022, 07:08 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by cmulder View Post
With stuck you mean that you could not change the settings from your transmitter or did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position).

This kind of "feedback" about how the system behaves when things go wrong is verry usefull to improve it and make fixing problem easier.
Yes i mean this (did the solenoid give the same amount of fuel to the engine all the time? (regardless of trottle stick position)..

Old 07-01-2022, 09:20 AM
  #67  
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Seems reasonable that a faulty/dirty switch could deliver voltage too low to operate Dave's controller. IIRC, Dave's controller operates down to 4.5v where Hans's operates down to 3.3v???
Old 07-01-2022, 09:43 AM
  #68  
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Default voltage drop under load

The annoing thing with troubleshooting these kind of problems is that when the systems is "idle" (no power to soilenoid) it likely gets the normal battery voltage.
Only when the solenoid starts to work and draws current the voltage drops.
If you are "lucky" it fully resets the computer (the controller is a simple computer running a single program) causing it to restart every time.
When the voltage drops below what the computer needs to work correctly but remains above the voltage of a full reset then you could end up with random behavior like described here.

Old 07-01-2022, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
Seems reasonable that a faulty/dirty switch could deliver voltage too low to operate Dave's controller. IIRC, Dave's controller operates down to 4.5v where Hans's operates down to 3.3v???
Yes, it does, but the weird thing is that this switch also feeds both ignition and RX, and those continue to function without issues. Never even dropping below 5V according to the logs.

So it is a bit weird.

Since Rob is still collecting the 10 posts required to be able to post attachments, pics or vids: This is the plane in question:


Last edited by 1967brutus; 07-01-2022 at 11:17 AM.
Old 07-01-2022, 11:27 AM
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the weird thing is I don't get any notifications of rssi low or signal low while flying. the only thing I noticed was that the battery voltage was very quickly at 6.1 after flying 3 times, which was not the case recently.

Last edited by Rob.m; 07-01-2022 at 11:35 AM.
Old 07-01-2022, 11:30 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
Seems reasonable that a faulty/dirty switch could deliver voltage too low to operate Dave's controller. IIRC, Dave's controller operates down to 4.5v where Hans's operates down to 3.3v???
fly it with a 2s life battery. and on dave's driver is the diode
Old 07-01-2022, 11:30 AM
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Yeah, but 6,1V still should not cause problems (other than that, IF that voltage were REAL, the battery would nearly be empty...)
Old 07-01-2022, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob.m View Post
the weird thing is I don't get any notifications of rssi low or single low while flying. the only thing I noticed was that the battery voltage was very quickly at 6.1 after flying 3 times, which was not the case recently.
Not meant to tease you, Rob, but I think you mean "signal", correct?
Old 07-01-2022, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus View Post
Yeah, but 6,1V still should not cause problems (other than that, IF that voltage were REAL, the battery would nearly be empty...)
If it's a 2S lifepo4 pack 6.1 is below normal usable voltage. With the diode on the controller input I wouldn't be surprised to see the controller crash.
Old 07-01-2022, 12:44 PM
  #75  
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As a last test I put a 5v voltage regulator in as power supply for the driver and the diver also runs stuck . after placing the xt30 (switch) the whole problem is solved it looks like.

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