Ryobi 31cc - How do you start it?
#1
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From: Commerce Twp,
MI
Ok,
How do I start this thing without having to put on an electronic ignition.
I have a 18x6 prop on it with a bolt (short shaft ryobi).
I have a drill with a starter cone but with the bolt on the front it does not have anything to grip.
I did see a suggestion to drill and tap the prop bolt in the center and put a nose cone that has a center screw on it.
Any other suggestions?
I have not gotten the engine mounted and will probably try to test run it on a stand first.
Also, does anyone have a picture of the fuel tubing on this that includes the primer bulb?
Bill
How do I start this thing without having to put on an electronic ignition.
I have a 18x6 prop on it with a bolt (short shaft ryobi).
I have a drill with a starter cone but with the bolt on the front it does not have anything to grip.
I did see a suggestion to drill and tap the prop bolt in the center and put a nose cone that has a center screw on it.
Any other suggestions?
I have not gotten the engine mounted and will probably try to test run it on a stand first.
Also, does anyone have a picture of the fuel tubing on this that includes the primer bulb?
Bill
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From: Up north,
ND
a drill might not work the best, but I've started my 25cc homey plenty of times with just the rubber cone directly on the prop. I do have a fairly large thrust washer on top of the prop which sticks up enough to help center the cone.
(lots of electric drills only turn 500 rpm or so without load, less with load, and the magneto ignitions want quite a bit of rpm going before they spark. I'm not saying it is impossible, just harder then a hand held starter)
(lots of electric drills only turn 500 rpm or so without load, less with load, and the magneto ignitions want quite a bit of rpm going before they spark. I'm not saying it is impossible, just harder then a hand held starter)
#3
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From: Houston, TX
The Ryobi 31cc does not have very tight compression, so you can just use a cone insert that is meant for small spinner nuts, and engage the prop bolt head + prop washer directly. I have done this to many conversion gasser with no problem. It does tend to wear out the cone insert faster, so make sure you prime the engine good before attempting to start. This way you don't end up crank, crank, crank forever.
If you have a drill press, it isn't that hard to center drill a prop bolt, as long as it is not black oxide heat treated. Then you can tap to either 10-32 or 8-32. The larger tap is preferred since it's always easier to break a smaller tap.
If you have a drill press, it isn't that hard to center drill a prop bolt, as long as it is not black oxide heat treated. Then you can tap to either 10-32 or 8-32. The larger tap is preferred since it's always easier to break a smaller tap.
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From: New Plymouth, ID
If your starter cone is of a standard type, you should be able to pull the rubber center piece out of it, turn it around, & put it back in. This leaves a flat surface with a hole in the middle of it that will fit nicely over the bolt(or nut) holding the prop on. This is how I start my two Homie 25cc engines, & works great!
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From: Commerce Twp,
MI
Thanks everyone.
So a standard drill will not spin fast enough?
As far as the cone and the stud. Will I be able to get it tight enough? I don't want that 18" prop coming off.
I have a standard starter, do I need a heavy duty one?
Keep it coming.
Bill
So a standard drill will not spin fast enough?
As far as the cone and the stud. Will I be able to get it tight enough? I don't want that 18" prop coming off.
I have a standard starter, do I need a heavy duty one?
Keep it coming.
Bill
#7
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Either a longer bolt and fabricate something like pic or just make a dual purpose washer like this.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...anchor/tm.htm#
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...anchor/tm.htm#
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From: Toledo,
OH
I put a standard nut on then the cone tightened against the nut
A narrow adjustable wrench on the nut and a 1/8" rod through the cone, locks in place
Pete
A narrow adjustable wrench on the nut and a 1/8" rod through the cone, locks in place
Pete
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From: Rochelle, IL,
I cut off the excess crank shaft that wasn't threaded and use a small rubber cone. I then took the aluminum hub off of an old starter and went to the hardware store and matched it up with a long bolt, star/ pressure washer and nut. Then I chuck that up in my corded drill and it works great. My 12V cordless didn't have enough power to turn it over consistantly. So my next delima is what I will do at the field. I had bought a hobbico 180 starter and it doesn't have enough power either. Once the engine is warm. I can shut it off and hand start it fine. I am running the magnito setup still. Just tached mine with the following:
MA 16x8 7700 RPM
APC 18x6W 7600 RPM
APC 17x8 7650 RPM
Idles at 1600-1700 RPM all day long. :^)
MA 16x8 7700 RPM
APC 18x6W 7600 RPM
APC 17x8 7650 RPM
Idles at 1600-1700 RPM all day long. :^)
#11
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From: Commerce Twp,
MI
Well,
I am still wondering how am I going to start this thing.
I was going to buy a HD starter. I guess you need to have a bigger battery also.
I don't think my gel cell will work.
Bill
I am still wondering how am I going to start this thing.
I was going to buy a HD starter. I guess you need to have a bigger battery also.
I don't think my gel cell will work.
Bill
#12
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RedWing
Borrow another 7Ah or larger battery and hook it in parallel to get 24V and try using your existing starter. With a wet finger prime it should not take much draw to get it to fire off.
Do not run the starter under load for any longer than necessary (3-4 seconds should have engine running). Yeah, the starter is not necessarly designed for 24V. but do't give it time to get hot at any one time. If you have the bucks spend them on a purpose desiged bigger starter.
Borrow another 7Ah or larger battery and hook it in parallel to get 24V and try using your existing starter. With a wet finger prime it should not take much draw to get it to fire off.
Do not run the starter under load for any longer than necessary (3-4 seconds should have engine running). Yeah, the starter is not necessarly designed for 24V. but do't give it time to get hot at any one time. If you have the bucks spend them on a purpose desiged bigger starter.
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From: Houston, TX
My field start tote box has two 4.5Ah 12V gelcells, which fits where a typical 7Ah 12V brick would go. I rewired the Tower Hobbies power panel to provide terminals for either 12V or 24V. I had used my old Tower HD starter on 24V for many years with no problem - it actually died of a bent shaft (my fault). Post mortum autopsy revealed a pair of brushes still in good serviceable shape. Now I use a new Hobbico HD 180 starter. No problem either.
As for how to engage the prop bolt, you can get prop bolts predrilled for 10-32 thread, if you don't want to do it yourself. B&B sells a very pretty prop nut that fits over a hex bolt head and tightens with a 10-32 set screw.
Alternatively, you can find a long 3/8" bolt, cut off the bolt head, and make a stud out of it. Then you can locktite it to the prob hub and use a regular spinner nut.
As for how to engage the prop bolt, you can get prop bolts predrilled for 10-32 thread, if you don't want to do it yourself. B&B sells a very pretty prop nut that fits over a hex bolt head and tightens with a 10-32 set screw.
Alternatively, you can find a long 3/8" bolt, cut off the bolt head, and make a stud out of it. Then you can locktite it to the prob hub and use a regular spinner nut.
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From: Commerce Twp,
MI
Thanks everyone! 
Now to get this engine on the test stand.
Get it fired up and adjusted.
Then finish the plane (Ryan's Rebel) and get it mounted.
But in the mean time I will be spending a great deal of time out at the baseball fields.
I have two sons playing baseball, of course in two different levels. That means games and practices on different days.
Thanks again!
Bill

Now to get this engine on the test stand.
Get it fired up and adjusted.
Then finish the plane (Ryan's Rebel) and get it mounted.
But in the mean time I will be spending a great deal of time out at the baseball fields.
I have two sons playing baseball, of course in two different levels. That means games and practices on different days.
Thanks again!
Bill
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From: Commerce Twp,
MI
Here is an update.
I got a HD Magnum starter (thanks to aero nut) and also picked up a small lawn mower battery to power it.
It spins the ryobi with no problem.
I got the engine on the test stand and got it fired up.
I am still having problems keeping it running. It wants to die at higher rpms.
Looking from the back of the engine, which adjustment is my hi speed and which is my low speed?
I have them both cranked out about 3 turns and then adjust from there but I am just guessing as to which to turn.
I guess I can look in my owner’s manual for my weed wacker, that might have something in it. I am not sure if I still have that though.
Any help is appreciated.
BTW, the engine sounds cool!!!
Bill
I got a HD Magnum starter (thanks to aero nut) and also picked up a small lawn mower battery to power it.
It spins the ryobi with no problem.
I got the engine on the test stand and got it fired up.
I am still having problems keeping it running. It wants to die at higher rpms.
Looking from the back of the engine, which adjustment is my hi speed and which is my low speed?
I have them both cranked out about 3 turns and then adjust from there but I am just guessing as to which to turn.
I guess I can look in my owner’s manual for my weed wacker, that might have something in it. I am not sure if I still have that though.
Any help is appreciated.
BTW, the engine sounds cool!!!

Bill
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From: IlwacoWA
Hi,
I use a Kavan geared starter with 12amp battery.
I've used the Dubro spinner nuts with great success.
It's just easier to have a spinner on these motors with the flywheel.
Good Luck!
CrazyHerb
I use a Kavan geared starter with 12amp battery.
I've used the Dubro spinner nuts with great success.
It's just easier to have a spinner on these motors with the flywheel.
Good Luck!
CrazyHerb
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From: San Antonio,
TX
Hi,
All of the sring starters attach to the rear shaft. The Ryobi has no such shaft. Some people put the rubber boot from a walking cane in the starter cone backwards. You need one of the heavy duty starters and a decent battery. Another way is to wrap a cord around the prop hub and pull it away from thr prop. Be very careful with this one.
Dave
All of the sring starters attach to the rear shaft. The Ryobi has no such shaft. Some people put the rubber boot from a walking cane in the starter cone backwards. You need one of the heavy duty starters and a decent battery. Another way is to wrap a cord around the prop hub and pull it away from thr prop. Be very careful with this one.
Dave





