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GAS/GLOW HOW TO....

Old 07-28-2014, 04:00 AM
  #576  
Bpar4
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Looking at the Tower OS catalog page, the con rod for the Heli version has ball bearing on one end and a plain sleeve type on the other. This is a very promising commercial development. Bob
Old 07-28-2014, 06:15 AM
  #577  
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Trying out the new glow plug in a more typical glow engine sounds like an interesting experiment. From just looking at the photos and comparing with regular glow plugs I'm familiar with, it seems like there might need to be some shims or spacers used to ensure the piston doesn't impact the plug. Hopefully O.S. kept the threads the same. I've got a bunch of glow engines in the .40 to .61 range, and one YS 1.50 that I'd love to run on gas!
Old 07-28-2014, 08:03 AM
  #578  
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It would be nice for someone living in the US to order one and post some info. On the TH site there seems to be conflicting info regarding the plug function (see pic)
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:15 AM
  #579  
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I noticed that as well. I wonder if they rushed this out the door so quickly that the marketing materials didn't get a thorough check.
Old 07-28-2014, 01:28 PM
  #580  
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEJRG&P=ML looks like the tip of the plug extends into the combustion chamber about the same amount as the length of the threads. About .156" That may be so the combustion happens close to the piston. Any way you look at it, it will not work on a smaller motor than a .40 or so without making a new head.$13 too? US dollars? shipping? I wonder if it is the 1/4" - 32 thread. Norvel uses a turbo plug in theirs, extra hot. It needs a new head too, either plug on a smaller motor. $50 for the rod too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDBTD&P=PU Oh, the carb is $125 too. Interestingly, there is a thermal spacer under the carb. I am starting to think it is more $ than a small block Chevy?

Last edited by aspeed; 07-28-2014 at 01:38 PM.
Old 09-05-2014, 10:05 AM
  #581  
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wonder what other OS engines that rod would work in...........hhhhmmmm!!!!!!!
Old 09-08-2014, 05:50 PM
  #582  
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A needle bearing rod won't work on a crankshaft designed for a bushing unless you change the crankpin for a hardened pin, which is no simple matter to do. You need a lathe and the knowledge to use it. If you use a needle bearing on a standard bushing crankpin, it will destroy the crank in short order.

Secondly, a heat barrier for the carb is a really good idea when running gasoline, because running without one you can easily run into problems with the gasoline vaporizing in the carb and causing all sorts of tuning and hot starting problems.

Guys, really good ignition systems are only 50 bucks now, and with an IBEC, you don't even have to run an ignition battery......

AV8TOR

Last edited by av8tor1977; 09-08-2014 at 05:52 PM.
Old 10-19-2014, 05:54 PM
  #583  
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Originally Posted by av8tor1977 View Post
A needle bearing rod won't work on a crankshaft designed for a bushing unless you change the crankpin for a hardened pin, which is no simple matter to do. You need a lathe and the knowledge to use it. If you use a needle bearing on a standard bushing crankpin, it will destroy the crank in short order.

Secondly, a heat barrier for the carb is a really good idea when running gasoline, because running without one you can easily run into problems with the gasoline vaporizing in the carb and causing all sorts of tuning and hot starting problems.

Guys, really good ignition systems are only 50 bucks now, and with an IBEC, you don't even have to run an ignition battery......

AV8TOR
Would it be possible to press a thin bushing over the crankpin to provide hard surface for needle bearing to ride on? just a thought.

Capt,n
Old 10-20-2014, 05:21 AM
  #584  
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Originally Posted by captinjohn View Post
Would it be possible to press a thin bushing over the crankpin to provide hard surface for needle bearing to ride on? just a thought.

Capt,n
Repair kits for automotive crankshaft bearing surfaces do just that. I repaired the front CS end on a Bertone X 1/9 engine that way years ago. The plain bearings in that case were not ball or roller or needle, but the repair sleeve was hardened steel. A Loctite adhesive was applied to hold the sleeve in position. Of course the heat, RPMs, and oil lube were different.

Sincerely, Richard
Old 10-20-2014, 03:00 PM
  #585  
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Lightbulb Produce a hard surface

My dad worked in a large engine building shop & he was in the heat treating department for several years. Anyway he would case harden knife blades we used for hunting...ect. So I did a search and found some ways to harden the metal surface of common steel. Click on link to read. Thanks Capt,n

http://tradetools.co.nz/products/2874710

Produces A Super Hard Surface On Plain & Low Carbon Steels

Easy-to-use compound case hardens plain and low carbon alloy steels. Carburizes surfaces quickly to uniform depth while retaining the toughness of the core. Also protects delicate, highly finished work, and helps eliminate the need for remachining. Simply apply the hardening compound to your metal parts, heat to the required temperature, then quench in oil or water for a professional grade, heat-treatment. Helps keep the edge sharp on expensive drill bits, milling and grinding tools, punches, firing pins, hammer davits, trigger pins, sears, and cocking pieces. Water soluble for easy clean-up. Complete

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/119...-compound-1-lb

Last edited by captinjohn; 10-20-2014 at 03:38 PM.

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