mmattockx

Where do you guys find cheap Poulan 46cc engines? Nobody sells the new chainsaws cheap up here, shipping kills me if buy off Ebay and I have been watching the local used for sale sites for weeks with no luck... So where else should I look? What I really want is a cheap(ish) beam mount ~45cc conversion engine. If there are others that fit the description I am fine with that too.

Mark

buck1856

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Hello Mark,didnt i sell ya some of those bud bottles?Anyway,are you looking for somthing like this.Its the Poulan 42cc.This was one of scotts first engines he started converting.[not this one],the style.
The nice thing about this one is the carb is bolted to the block[cyl] and doesnt use the rubber boot like the 46 that you need a special adaptor to make it fit.
Anyway,this has been sitting for a while,the compression is still good,might need a new ring.I would run it first though. but im doing an echo 45cc out of a blower.So i dont need this one.Send me a PM if interested with your addy.
Ill ship to you,no problem.
Youll notice the side pic of the piston its shiny and theres no scoring in cylinder.

mmattockx

Hey Buck,

Sorry for the slow reply, I have been working too much... Yes you did send me some bottles. They are patiently waiting for me to get to that point on my list of things to do.

Reportedly, the 46 is significantly lighter than the 42 and should make more power with the extra displacement. Thanks for the offer, but I think I will hold out for the 46 or an Echo 45 or 50 if I can find one. If I get desparate I will PM you about the 42.


Mark

buck1856

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Well,how about something that looks like this Echo 45cc from a blower?

RC Extreme power

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www.lawnstation.com

Milton

mmattockx

Thanks, Milton. Their prices are good, but shipping kills me. I live in Canada and have not found any suppliers even close to local that have decent prices. Either I pay a lot for the saw and no shipping, or I pay a bit for the saw and a lot for shipping...[:@]

Mark

buck1856

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What do ya think about the echo 45 im doing in post 4.

av8tor1977

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That Echo makes a great engine. Better than the Poulan in my opinion.

Nice job trimming that case up there Buck!

I've got another one I'll be doing soon... and a 58cc, and a 65cc, and a bunch of smaller ones.... It's a sickness!!

AV8TOR

oldtimer2

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Hi,..... check out...... http://farmex.now.tc/catalog/index.php ..... look for Echo short blocks. Some are cheap some more expensive. You will have to know the number for your block or just surf through the list till you find what you are looking for. LOL

In your size range would be the sb-1055 for the cs-510 or Sb-1080 for the CS-520 saws. these are both beam mounted and have the carb flanges for a bolt on set-up. The price in the catalog is $190.00. I don't know your situation. These are the shortblocks Keith used for the BME 50s I am sure.

Peter G.

You might want to try Princess Auto.
The last time I checked, about a month ago, they were selling them for around $79.00 /can.. They may have been 42cc but I have seen them sell the 46cc as well.

Good Luck

microsprint9

Yep my friend got a 42cc poulan chainsaw from princess auto for about $80, factory recon, worked very good but has that clean burn crap on it, he made a new manifold for the carb and put a walbro carb on it.

buck1856

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Thanks av8tor.The only thing is it has the straight crank shaft.I was thinking about doing it like the ryobi 31 and just use a set screw on the side where the keyway would go,and then put the magnet apposite to kind of balance it out a little,then just use the nut to hold it all on..But being anything that close to the center of the crank and light shouldnt cause any imblance that is noticible.
Or,would it be better to rethread the crank and then use a nut to hold down the hub in the center like a G62,and use 2 bolts to hold the hub on.
Also,how would somone make the square keyway in the hub.What tool do ya use.This engine used the bar stock keyway,1/4x2 inches.[or a little less maybe].

av8tor1977

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Either way should work fine.

Another method I have been thinking about is making a collet type setup like is used on glow engines. You know; it uses a split collet on the crank, and then a prop driver hub with a taper that fits the collet.

AV8TOR

mmattockx

Thanks, Peter, I will check. I never even thought of them, doh![:@] $80 is more like it for a donor that still needs an ignition and hub worked out.

Mark

captinjohn

To put a keyway in crank..If you have a mill, use a keway cutter the correct width for key. More easy yet...use a vertical mill bit. You may want to grind the surface a tad, drill about the depth of key-way and then mill the slot. To put a keyway in a hub...you need a broach. Capt,n There may be other ways too!

av8tor1977

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Thanks Captain... I forgot to comment about the slot question. I was too busy thinking about the collet/hub idea. I wonder which brand glow engine has the cheapest parts? A collet and prop hub/washer from a 120 to 180 size glow engine might easily be adapted to some of our engines....

AV8TOR

captinjohn

I think you have a very good idea there. I can take a look at some of my engines that have collet type hubs and see what I come up with. Again...good thinking! Capt,n

av8tor1977

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Thanks. Yeah, then all one would have to do would be turn down the crank snout to the inside diameter of the collet, leaving a shoulder for the collet to butt up against. Should work great on some of our engines, depending on shaft length, etc.

AV8TOR

buck1856

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Thanks captn.I dont have a mill but ive been using my drill press as a simple mill with a 4 flute end mill to clean up items,make them flat,take out corners,ect...
Ill go look at little machine shop and see what they have,or micromark,and the other main one,forget the name.
Ill have to go look at the site and put those terms in the search bar,i have no idea what those any of those 3 items look like.

buck1856

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I have an old super tigre2000 that a guy gave me because the crank was bent.It uses the collet idea.I straighned the crank most of the way by putting it my vise,straighten some,in lathe,in vise,in lathe,ect.. unitl it was almost perfect.Then put it in lathe and tapped it while it was turning around slowly.And yes i used a rubber mallet and tapped it very gently as to not bother my lathe.Its straight and true with no runout.

nitro joe

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"Also,how would somone make the square keyway in the hub.What tool do ya use.This engine used the bar stock keyway,1/4x2 inches.[or a little less maybe]."



A cheap way,(free) to add your internal keyway, using your lathe.

UNPLUG the latheā€¦! Lock-out.Remove fuse etc.....

Chuck your hub in the 3-jaw. Check run out. LOCK the head stock spindle.

Run a boring bar with a 1/4" square tool bit (homemade if needed) in,and out using the carriage hand wheel, adjusting out a just few thousandth at a time,using the cross slide,until you reach the desired depth in your hub.

Maybe do a practice"broach"on a some scrap first,just to get the feel for it.

Edit to add pics.

buck1856

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Thanks,now thats cool.So i should look for a boring bar that would hold the tool bit in place?I do have a inside boring bar its the one thats a 1/4 of a circle.Ill go se what what the above mentioned shops have.

nitro joe

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,buck

For what your doing, there really is little reason to get fancy,or spend cash on a new boring bar.

The picā€™s are just something off the'net, but do show the idea.

Just grab a piece of mild steel bar stock from your scrap bin, turn one end so it will have a little clearance in the bore of your hub,and long enough to reach well past the end of the hub. Making it rather large in dia. will keep the bar nice and stiff.

Next, drill a Ā¼ā€ through hole in the side of this bar, 90 degreeā€™s to the bar center line in your drill press for the cutter bit. Maybe start about Ā¾ ā€œor so,from the end of the bar.The round tool bit hole will be fine for this little job cutting aluminum.

Now drill and tap for a bolt in the end of the bar to hold the bit,maybe Ā¼-20 or so, this will square up the bit in the round hole as it is tightened.

If room is a problem,just scale down the boring bar.

Turn/grind, whatever works,the opposite end of the bar to fit in your tool post.
Grind your clearance rakes on a short tool 1/4" square bit, and have at it.

Practice on a piece of scrap stock with the hub bore size drilled in it first.

Once again,no reason to get all fancy,with broaches for keyways unless your doing a pile of them.
Good Luck.

buck1856

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Thanks,ill go see what i have laying around and get creative with your suggestion.