Successful aluminium brazing
 

These zinc based brazing rods work really well [sm=teeth_smile.gif]

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...e/P1010270.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...e/P1010267.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...e/P1010263.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...e/P1010262.jpg

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

If you will be getting it very hot, it will melt. I have found that it works fine on mufflers under 50cc. I have a 65cc conversion that melts the joints. Keep the box and extension tube made to keep the joint in a cooler area, that is away from the exhauset port.

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

Melts at just under 400C. I've had a baffle glued in the original with Araldite and that never melted and a silicon extension, so I think we're good.

Probably not good for 4 stroke petrol headers or mufflers though ;)


Which bit melted on the 65cc? I can imagine a header pipe to a remote muffler gets hotter than a muffler bolted to the head [sm=confused.gif]

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

The picture below is of another engine but, the muffler disign is the same. The exhaust pipe falls off. On this one, a 50cc it works out fine.

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

I have done many homebuilt mufflers and the problem I find is vibration. The aluminum rod just doesn't have the strength. I have supported the exhaust pipe and this helps somewhat. My solution is to run the exhaust pipe all the way thru the muffler. Drill exit holes as needed in the exhaust pipe. This extra length and having the end of the exhaust pipe bearing on the wall of the muffler seems to do the job in most cases. I don't think heat is the problem,as the melting point of the rod is much higher than the engine will ever get to. Good luck, red

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

I sometimes make mufflers out of light gauge steel, brazed together. They work fine, and are actually lighter than an aftermarket thickwall aluminum muffler.

AV8TOR

RE: Successful aluminium brazing
 

For smaller engines it will work ok. The tip about running the pipe all the way to the opposite inside of the box is good. I have made a tab and secured it with a nut an bolt withe the end peened over. This gives an oppertunity to perforate the pipe with a zillion itty bitty holes. Keep the area near the exhaust port solid. It will cut the sound dramatically and maintain flow.

The last attempt for my 65cc was done this way. The pipe did not fall off. The solder did melt and the pipe ratteled around so much as to make the exit hole in the can grossly ovesized. It will melt in big engines....really. ;) The exhaust gasses are very hot even though the head does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Up to 50cc, a BME-50 clone, it has worked out fine. I make the flat ends of the cylindrical muffler out of flat 3/16"-ish stock that is turned on a lathe with a shoulder that fits the cylinder snug. Tube part of the cylinder is made of aluminum fire extenguisher or aluminum pressure tank. A draw bolt holds it together. The body of these mufflers are pleanty tough. Perhaps the solution is to put a bunch of little holes instead of an exhaust pipe? I'll have to try that one day.