It was the bayonet type that required the spring. The replacement has the compression spring. So, at this point, who knows if the problem at the plug cap caused the problem near the ignition unit or what happened. The ignition unit itself is still firing. Glad that headache is off the work bench and back in the hanger.

With the new ignition the Saito 125 fired up easily and is happy again.

The Bayonet type was made in 2 versions. The early versions were soldered at the 90 degree joint in the cap (with two fairly large blobs of a special soldering material in the ones I had) and the later ones were laser-welde, very nice and clean looks.
I have had faillures with the soldered one (one due to a minor mishap, inverted engine and a nose over in landing causing the plugcap to catch in the grass, the other one due to vibrations. I could repair the one that failed due vibrations). But those repairs did not last "forever" so it got replaced and the repaired unit became my testbench-unit.

But whatever the cause, your Saito being happy again is the most important!

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

Hi Bert
Any chance of getting that solonoid kit Inc electronics?
Wouldn't mine paying for it Inc postage.
Thanks

:D :D :D Well, I ain't planning on giving them away free of course, but yes, as it stands right now I should have a few sets availlable from mid May.
I first have to go to sea for a month or two and when I get back, I hope to have all parts availlable again.
For now I cannot say anything about prices, although I do not expect them to change too much.

Please have patience and remind me again mid May (my memory is not what it used to be :D)

Hi Bert.
Yes of course not expecting it free.
Once have some made please put me in for one.
Thanks.

Like I said, remind me mid May, because I'm not a business, I am just a private person doing this for zero profit and as a hobby. Therefore I do not "take orders" and do not keep a waiting list, for reason that that would lead to volumes I cannot handle.

That is also the reason why I have shared all information needed to fabricate this system, to at least "lighten my load" a bit ;)

hi bert.
That definitely is some wording!
Just a couple of weeks ago my waco and radial fell out the sky,,all because of a damn $30 transmitter battery pack..

Thats $1400 au of a really cool plane ..so lost a plane
but recovered electronics and the engine was ok after getting wedged in the ground

Well, one could call it "extrapolated experience": Never lost an expensive plane that way, but the cheap ones that I lost helped me preventing to lose expensive ones...

Knock on wood... :D

Hello, great project, I'm interested to buy a valve support from you, in order to test it on my old asp 120. I already have the others items in stock.
Thank you :)

You mean, the aluminium housing for the Solenoid? No probs, but give me a few days, I expect to be home 18 or 19 September.

Are you one of the guys that contacted me via WhatsApp a week or so back?

No it's not me. No problem I can wait :)

Try to get your postcount up to 10 or more, so you will be able to use the Personal Message function.
I will send you a PM in a few days and we can exchange the info to get you the item you need.

A little help for the first run !
 

Good morning to all.
I have noticed that there is a point which needs a little help to be easier to overcome: This is : how do you adjust the whole set for the very first run ?

I noticed that on most of the engines I have converted, 2stk or 4 stk, the solenoid 'curve' is very flat. That means that the gas qtty flowing will be roughly the same for any throttle aperture.
This is valid for the first hours of running, you may have to adjust the curve later.

You now have understood that the gas quantity is to be adjusted very precisely with the carb air in-flow. This is why the solenoid is used for (NO other way to achieve it by the way).

Well, here is how to do:

Start by changing the O ring gasket from the Hi needle. Any old one or Glow type, will leak. Change it, will cost peanuts.

1) you close your hi needle and then re open it one half of a turn. This is plenty enough. This gives a fixed quantity of gas to get in the carb since the curve is flattish. Turn off your ignition power supply.
2) Now, you prime your carb very generously, checking for no bubbles.
3) Turn on the ignition and put the starter to work with one hand, at the same time you will very gently move up or down your Throttle stick. Get some help if needed, to hold the plane if the engine is installed already.
At one point of the Thr stick travel, the gas input will match with the carb air input and the engine will start.
Let it warm up and then you adjust on the curve very lightly going up and down with the Thr stick.

Now if you did this and it still refuses to start. It means your adjustment was never good enough to allow a start (too rich or too poor).
You then close or open your needle by ONE ONLY click (this is roughly the same as 15% on the curve). and do it again. The engine should ignite, then it is just a matter of tuning your curve at that same Thr stick aperture.

Trouble shooting again:
* an engine which refuses any start and eventually ignites through the carb: this means your timing adjustment is wrong. Don't forget the spark should happen 28 deg before piston high point. It is easy to make it it wrong. I suggest you use a protractor to check on this angle precisely.
* an engine which stalls abruptly in full speed is probably too lean, open the curve point by a few % and run again.
* you should start at 30% Thr stick opening. not more. This is enough to overcome the internal frictions in the engine before it is broken in. It is also the easy point to get, in the middle of the curve.
* check that your Thr servo runs symmetrically ! if you don't, you will have to readjust the whole curve if you change the servo or its travel.

Hope it will help you, those systems are truly awesome and enthusiastic !

Good morning
I followed the entire discussion and found it very interesting.
I tried to upload to an Arduino and the compilation gave me lots of errors and I don't know how to correct it, I don't know much about Arduino.
any help is welcome

THANKS

Good afternoon.
Well, Arduino always sends compilation errors whichever errors it encounters ...
Check those points:
* Do you have all the needed libraries installed and updated ?
* do you use the proper Port ?

Have you tried using Xiaoo boards ? much smaller and easier to use. Those are ones I use wjthout any problems.

I can't give you a precise help because I am not a Arduino specialist and do not have your whole set here in front of me.
This kind of trouble can so easily be avoided by asking Bert (aka Brutus) for a completely functional set, Arduino is so poor in help that I finally gave up trying with those.

When you eventually will be successful with your Arduino set, you have to make a solenoid set. This needs a lathe and how to use it properly !

My advice: ask Bert !

Have a good day

thank you for your reply

Hi, I gathered all the materials to convert my ASP 120 2 stroke, but I wonder how to attach the magnet? should I file a cavity and glue the magnet?

Thank you

The link below is for Just Engines RC store in England. Very thorough instructions on CDI conversion. I had good luck with 4 x 6mm long magnet and 5/32" drill in aluminum. Press fit, no glue.

http://www.justengines.co.uk/wp-cont...v=3e8d115eb4b3

Normally I use 3 x 6 mm magnets (3 mm dia, 6 length) and I drill a 3 mm hole in the propdriver.
Glueing with a decent 24 hr epoxy, cured in an oven at 75 deg C. Cure time gets down to 1 hr, and the fit is unbreakable.

So I tried to drill it yesterday, but on the ASP it's not a cylinder, it have a conical shape, so it's almost impossible to drill where I want.

That sounds like one of the older ASP engines.

Normally, the best way to drill a propdriver that is slightly conical, is to first mark the location with a centre punch (give it a good whack with the hammer, so you have a deep pit that will prevent the drill from "walking away"), then start the hole by using a 1,5 or 2 mm dril, and IMPORTANT: use a freehand drill, perpendicular to the surface where you want to drill the hole, and ONLY drill a very shallow hole (no more than 1 mm deep). Repeat that with increasing larger drills until you have the drill size you need, but always just ONLY drill until the tip of the drill is in.

Once you have that done, you have a good starting point for the drill, so now you can use the drill press and make the final hole, perpendicular to the propdriver, and drill to full depth,

Please let me know if this description is clear to understand.

If not, I will try to make a few pictures, but I will need time for that...

I just found this thread tonight, thanks for posting it Billy. I've read most of it and will follow up.
I am planning on using this system on a 26 cc two stroke which currently has a WT668 Walbro carb, by replacing it with an electronic regulated diaphragm carb.

I too have compilation errors with the code. I always do have when starting a new arduino project for various reasons, mostly my inexperience.
I've managed to install some of the missing files; that process takes time to learn, but become easier after you have done it a couple of times.
When you encounter a "No such file or directory", do a search for that including the title GitHub. That should direct you to the page with the file.
The GitHub page can be confusing to navigate, but stick with it, the file will there somewhere.
You can choose the .zip file and download that. Then go back to your Arduino IDE. Under "sketch" you will find "Include Library", click and open.
Then type in the file name in the field shown. Then you will see a big "Install File" or something similar. click that to install it in the IDE.
Or: alternatively, click on "Add File" and you can install it straight from the .zip file in the Downloads or whatever directory you downloaded it to.
To other readers: If I have explained this incorrectly, please correct me and post back!
I don't use Arduino often enough to remember such basics very well. I am a bit of an Arduino novice at best and do not understand code.
Thanks for posting and keep reporting your results.
If and when Raleighcopter posts again, he will likely sort us both out! fairly quickly and efficiently...........Talking

By the way, I have posted over on the other thread on this subject.

Jim.

Hello. I am writing to you following a link from the French site "jivaro-model.org". An article mentions the possibility of converting a "glow" engine to gasoline. And the author of this article mentions you to "possibly" obtain the mechanical, electrical, electronic parts... from you. I would be very interested in the possibility of modifying a Super Tigre G60 that belonged to my father to put it back into service. I hope it is possible. Waiting for your response. Best regards
Aeromodeling friendships.
This is a Google translation from French to English

The SuperTigre series usually can be tuned for gasoline "as is" with no more than the installment of an electronic ignition, due to the design of the SuperTigre carb allowing for a decent midrange tune. They are the only brnd, to my knowledge, that can be run on gasoline with only adjustments, no modifications.
Tuning the midrange is done by loosening up the two tiny cheesehead screws on the fuel inlet side of the carb, and turning the brass insert that holds the fuel nipple and the main needle. Clockwise is leaner, anticlockwise is richer.
Muffler pressure is advised, with a "craptrap" dirt collector between muffler and fuel tank to prevent dirt from entering the tank.

I can sell you a solenoid set, but I feel that would be an indecent course of action if your engine does not really need it.

Here are a few SuprTigres that I converted to gasoline: