RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Buck,

A Sopwith Triplane sounds neat! The Homie 33cc has only one ring but it's not a problem...it has good compression. With a Ryobi wouldn't you have to cut into the firewall because of the rear exhaust?

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

OK----Lets see if we can spot my troubles. I finished putting this Quadra 41 back together and gaped the flywheel about one note book paper thickness (could not find my gap gauge) from the magnets. I got a real blue spark. The engine fired and ran the third flip. I was watching it thru the throttle range and noticed that on the low end from about idle to just below mid range it was just not as smooth as it should be. After it got above mid it smoothed out very nice. I took it back off the stand and checked the prop. It was in bal. but also noticed it was tracking out by about 1/4 in. I also noticed that the flywheel was rubbing the magnets alittle. I went back and set it about two thicknesses off the notebook paper and the spark was yellow and not blue anymore. I have a new prop that is in Bal. and is tracking right on the money. I hope that this will smooth it out when I try it later this week-end. Does any of this sound like some probs you have had that would make for a low end roughness??? Thanks All Hooker53

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Hooker,

Most of my engines are that way. They always seem to be a little rough below half or 1/3 throttle. You can try leaning the idle mixture a little and see if that helps. The idle mixture should be rich enough so the engine doesn't hesitate when the throttle is opened, but not so rich that it affects the mid-range. You might have to experiment with the mixtures to get it as smooth as possible.

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Thanks Jim. I re-set the engine up with new prop and mag gap. Put it back on the plane. This time I put the wing on it. The wing made all the Diff. I have a good low end and the engine is running alittle lower than it needs to to keep running and the plane sits still. So guess for now I have licked it. Thanks for your reply. I never had one do that bad at first. This is the first points engine I ever run. Later Hooker53

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Well,

I think I found the culprit that was causing the radio interference in the Hawk. I stripped all the gear out of the plane one item at a time and "eyeballed" each component carefully. I noticed that each battery pack had two little bare metal spots on them that matched up to the cup hooks that I used to retain them in the fuse. The cup hooks vibrated through the 1/4" foam rubber that I wrapped them in and made metal to metal contact with the battery casings, possibly causing my radio interference problems. [:o]

I have started to re-install the 33cc homelite in my re-hashed TP Stinson Reliant. I crashed this plane into a tree on it's last flight by accidentally killing the engine on final just short of my runway......[:@] The damage was'nt too bad: broken vertical fin/ rudder, busted windshield,etc. I decided to rebuild the plane to a phantom military version. I used Krylon camouflage rattle-can paint with a Min-wax polycrylic satin clear top coat.

Thanks to one super RCU member, I now have a really slick looking flywheel that originally came with my 33cc homelite saw motor.:D;) I just need a Wacker prop hub and I'll be set.

Jim, how do like your prop hubs?

Here's a couple of pic'c of the Stinson. With luck I should be flying it in a day or two.

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron,

The thing with the cups hooks is interesting. It sure sounds like that could cause a problem. I'm glad you mentioned this because I also use cuphooks for strapping the batteries and receiver down. I'll have to look mine over and make sure I don't have any wear areas.

It looks like you've been busy! Your Stinson looks pretty cool in the new camo scheme. [sm=thumbup.gif] I'm wondering...did you use the water-based Minwax? I found that stuff good for glassing but it wasn't good for the clear topcoat. It would get attacked by any raw fuel that got spilled on it. I found that the solvent-based Minwax clear is more gas resistant. The only problem with that one is that it yellows your colors slightly.

I like the prop hubs just fine.

Jim

RE: 33cc homelite
 

Hellow guys:
just wondering about the final weight of a homelite 33cc already converted. I mean reducing the flying wheel,and all the excesive aluminum in the crank, and without muffler ( I can custom made my own).
Thanks forthe info.
Nice thread.

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Thanks Jim,

yes, I used the water based Minwax Polycrylic, I did'nt know that it could be had in oil base 'till now.[:o] I used a foam brush and just enough Poly to "wet" the surface. I also fogged on a coat of Krylon clear latex enamel to the firewall and fuse undersurface. I thought this might help guard against raw gas eating away the finish, but after further research I think I just wasted my time.[:@] Oh well, I'll know better next time.

I started to install the radio system yesterday but my stinkin' blankety-blank 2 month old transmitter won't let me program it.[&o] It's possible the cold weather took it's toll... It's still under warranty so I'll send it back to Horizon for a check-up. If I was rich I would chuck it into the burn-barrel and be done with it!!

tatolazo, RS Engines gives the weight of their 33cc "Brute" on the website that Jim (Tmoth4) mentioned somewhere on this post that might help give you a ball-park figure. I weighed my Phelon flywheel at the post-office B-4 I sent it out for machining. (2.90 lbs.) Now that I've gotten it back I need to weigh it again to see how much lighter it is, while I'm at it I'll weigh the engine too. I don't know when I'll do this, so don't hold your breath.:)

Ron

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron,

You can put a coat of the oil-based Minwax on top of what you did. I had to do that on a plane. Just roughen it slightly with 600 paper first. It will make the colors slightly yellow but that's OK on camo, IMO.

I don't think the rsengines website which has info on the Brute 33 is running right now. I have my engines mounted in planes right now so I can't weigh them.

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Thanks for the tip Jim.

I'll get a quart of the oil (solvent) based stuff and give it a try, a slight yellowing of the colors is no big deal to me. I really like the water-based Polycrylic because it's so easy to use, drys fast and sticks to just about anything. ( and it does'nt stink up the house for 3 days :).)

Have you had any luck locating mufflers for your ME110 project? The Wacker units look pretty slick but I don't know if they would be slim enough for your application. It looks like rsengines might be out of business, they never came back from their "vacation".[:o]

I was fiddling with my radio today and after a 100 attempts at pushing the buttons I finally got lucky! If I wiggle the buttons just right I'm able to program the d**n thing. I'm back in business for now, I can't wait to get this bird back up into the air.:D

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron,

I agree the water-based stuff is easy to use. Normal exhaust goo doesn't affect it...just the raw gas that inevitably gets dripped on it.

You're right. The wacker muffler sticks out too much and the cowls are real narrow. I'm going to have to make a wrap around pipe and put the muffler behind the engine. It sure would have helped if the engines had rear exhaust ...or else I should have built a plane with round cowls!![sm=rolleyes.gif] I don't mind smallish holes, like for the carb, but I hate to put huge ones in.

I have the Hitec Prism Eclipse Tx and it's not too bad to program...I understand some other brands are not so easy.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Jim

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Jim----a question about your Hitec Eclipes TX!!! Has yours, when you hit the edit keys while it's on, started cycling thru screens and beeping??? I noticed mine doing that for the first time this morning. I looked in the Man. for something I may have missed but when I do that to my TX the first thing that should come up is the EPA screen!! Thanks hooker53

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Hooker,

No mine doesn't cycle like that, it just beeps once and shows the EPA screen.

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Problem solved. (I hope...)

I flew the Stinson twice today and I did'nt get one glitch!:D I wrapped the batteries in foam and velcro and stuck them to a 1/4" balsa tray that is also covered in velcro. (The same set-up that I've used all along in the stinson)

I goofed on the battery placement in the Hawk by having the cup hooks too close to each battery pack. Due to engine vibration the hooks buzzed right through the foam and the sheath that is shrunk onto the packs. The metal to metal contact must have been causing the battery packs to go nuts somehow.

Jim, I don't blame you for not wanting to cut gaping holes in your beautiful fiber-glass cowls. I think you made a good choice on the engines and your ME110 will be worth the effort and cost for custom mufflers. I look forward to seeing how it all turns out, please keep us updated on your progress.

Here's a couple pic's I took today of the Stinson. The vert. fin and rudder look kinda ugly, but they are functional. I'll have to admit that the Hawk is a much better flyer and more rugged than the TF Stinson is.

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron,

I like the new camo job on the Stinson and I'm glad to hear that you've eliminated the glitches. It looks like your weather is better than here in Ohio. We just got slammed with more snow!![:@]

In case you're interested Fiberglass Specialties has the glass cowl and wheel pants for the Topflite Stinson. I'm sure the blisters are already molded in. They're a little expensive but they're much tougher than the ABS parts. I've bought stuff from them before and they do good work.[sm=thumbup.gif] http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc....0MODELS,%20INC

I'm at the point on the Me110 where I can fit the cowls over the engines, so I have to really think about the exhaust systems. I haven't been working on the plane as intensely as I was. I guess I'm just sick of winter and being in the basement so much. I will have it flyable this summer though.

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Thanks Jim,

If you want to see some weird weather, come to Montana. One day it will be 70 deg. and sunny and the next day it will be 40 deg., with heavy snow falling! Today was nice, about 60 deg. with a light wind.

I know what you mean about spending too much time on a project, after a while you can get "burned out" and you gotta just leave it alone for awhile...

Thanks for mentioning the fiberglass specialty website. I've checked them out before when I was looking for glass parts for the Hawk. They have some nice looking stuff.

Hopefully you will get some good weather soon, go fly one of your other planes for some R and R![8D]

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Yeah, The only flying I've done for months is on the simulator!

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Jim,

I've got the CFS-3 (microsoft combat simulator-3) computer game and a Saitek joy-stick. When the weather turns nasty I have a blast shooting down ME 109's and FW 190's.:)

FYI, for anybody thats interested, during the rebuild of the Stinson I thought I would try a different clunk for the fuel tank. I installed the clunk/filter that came with the Bandit chainsaw, using stainless safety wire for a "hose clamp". ( I had a clunk come off once during a flight resulting in a dead-stick landing because it was'nt secured properly).

The problem is, I'm having problems filling the tank with my hand-cranked fuel pump. ( I'm running a two line system, one for the vent, one for the fuel pick-up). It's really hard to push fuel past the filter, the pump and the carb leaks, and it takes for-ever to fill the tank. I also did some minor tweaking on the idle adjustment needle, seems like the filter caused the engine to run a little on the lean side, due to the extra restriction in fuel flow. I did get in two 25 minute flights today and the homelite ran prefect.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Tomorrow I'm going to remove the fuel tank and add a third line to fill it. I think the filter/clunk is worth the effort because it will allow the engine to suck up the last available drop of fuel and will cut down on air bubbles entering the clunk due to engine vibration aerating the fuel. Just my .02 cents worth, other opinions and recommendations welcome.

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron,

I've got the Realflight G2 simulator, but the one you have sounds like more fun.

I'll have to take a look at the clunk that came with the saw, maybe it's better than what comes with the model tanks.

Jim

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron----Check your clunk and see if it has a check valve in it. Fuel can go in--but not out. I have heard that some Mfg's are doing this to sort of pressurize the system and aid the priming process. This could be part of that snap start system you and I was wondering about. Part of the easy cranking of these engines as we have found out is getting a good fast prim to that carb!! Just a thought. Hooker53

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Hooker,

Next time I have the fuel tank out I'll check the clunk, you may be right about the check-valve. I could of done that this morning while I was installing the third fueling line...,but I just now read your post. When I was fueling the plane yesterday I could hardly get fuel into the tank, but had no problem drawing it out with the pump. I'll bet It does have a check-valve!

Out of curiosity I dissected a clunk from another chainsaw fuel tank and sure enough, there's a thin metal wafer between the filter and the inlet barb. could this be a one-way valve?

Here's a pic.

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Ron--It sure is!!!! I never thought about Homelite incorporating that on there saws. I can see where it would be useful for what we use them for thought. I'v seen some tanks at our field 1 1/2 feet from the engine. The only thing you would have to worry about is the thing messing up in midair. Let me know how it comes out. I'm trying to work up a diff. gas gan for the field. This thing with the hand crank on a chain and a one gal. weed-eater container has got two of my cars smelling like gas. Ha. Ha. If Dave Brown makes one of his Six Shooters gas compatible, I will own one before the sun sets Monday. Later Roy

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Yeah, Roy,
I've been using the Hanger 9 manual fuel pump. Although the instructions say it's designed for glow fuel, I've pumped many gallons of gasoline and glow fuel through it over the last couple of years. Sure the hoses are starting to swell and need replacing, but fuel line is cheap and for $13.95 it does a great job. (It has not blown up or caught fire, yet...)

I think I've proven the reliability of the Homelite filter/clunk. Yesterday I flew the Stinson 4 times for a total of 1 hour 45 min. I also flew it once today after work for 25 min. The Homelite never missed a beat the entire time. (Sorry Jim, I'm not trying to rub it in.:))

Ron

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

i use a six shooter and he has both gas and glow versions

RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: 33cc homelite
 

Well,

I think this thread has just about run it's course. My original question was; Can I bolt my 31cc Ryobi flywheel and prop hub onto my 33 Homelite engine and make it work?. The answer is YES !! This combo has given me hours of reliable flight-time on two different planes, as originally installed .D]

Here's a better pic. of the dissected filter/clunk from the scanner.

Ron