scaldarera

Thanks for those suggestions. I have checked the balance and even tryed out another pair of new blades with the training kit and it wobbles, and without it, dosen't. I will keep giving it a try and see if I can solve this issue. What you said about there being something else worng makes sense to me.
Sam

67shelby

Sam, I never did get "all" the vibration out but got it down to where I could live with it until comfortable enough to remove the crash kit altogether. Before I found the problem with the flybar though, it was absolutely terrible i.e. "unacceptable". It would literally shake the canopy off the frame! Keep tinkering. You'll eventually get it minimized and learn a lot about adjusting pitch and balance at the same time!

scaldarera

I have read on fourms that some are making the tail boom on the HBFP shorter. What does this do and how short would imporve itflying?
Also is there a stronger motor than the stock other than slomax?
Thanks for your information.

Sam

67shelby

Hey Sam,

Not sure what the idea is w/ shortening the tail boom (no personal experience). If I were to guess, I'd think it probably has something to do with faster response, similar to removing flybar weights... just guessing.

As for the motors, there's a lot of them out there. I bought the Xtreme (but haven't installed it yet as my stock motor is still just fine)

scaldarera

Hi 67 shelby,

I am thinking about the extreme when the stock goes. I wonder what the experience has been using that motor with the HBFP.
I notice that the very small antenna wire that comes out of the 4 in 1 is gone. I haven't noticed any change in flying and don't know if there is anything I need to do.

Sam

67shelby

I'm not sure about that wire either Sam but I'd be somewhat concerned. Basically the 4-1 is the RX on a HB and I'm assuming it has something to do with signal processing??? Maybe the reason you haven't noticed any difference yet is because you haven't been far enough away from it (distance between RX and TX). Just guessing....

As for the Xtreme motor, it comes highly recommended and should be considerably more powerful than the stock motor. At least that's what's been said on the forums.

scaldarera

Anybody ever lost the little wire that comes out of the 4 in 1 on their honey bee 2.4G? I did and want to know what to do about it. I am thinking about getting a piece of antenna wire and putting in it in the hole where the lost wire came from. Anybody got any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Sam

67shelby

Hey Sam, you might want to post this on another forum as well (like the Beginners or General RC Heli Disscusion). Just not sure how much traffic this thread gets (don't think much though). I'll post it on another Forum I belong to as well.

Mark

scaldarera

Mark, I just got off nuttcaze.com forum. On one of the threads about HBFP there was information NOT TO USE and extreme 370 motor as it can burn up your 4 in 1. I wanted to give you this information so you can know the possibility of problems with that motor.
Sam

67shelby

Here ya go Sam (got this from the rcdiscuss Forum). Seems to be a common problem w/ the HBFP

"It is the antenna. Just use any stranded wire the same guage. Cut it to be about an 1.5 - 2 inches long and solder it on there."

And thanks for the tip on the Xtreme motors. I'll check to see which model it is I have. I've had it sitting there for over a month. Since I got the EXI 450 Kit that I'm putting together and my Quark to fly in the meantime, I've only flown the HBFP once!

benno8263

dchin62973

I recently did a brushless main motor mod and brushless tail mod for the E-SKYHBFP. It has plenty of power and should be able to lift something like a Flycam. The motors are lighter and more efficient than a regular carbon brushed motor. The carbon brushed motors heat up during flight and heat sinks are required. You also have to wait until the motor cools down before flying again otherwise risk the longevity of the carbon brushed motor. Brushless motors run cool to the to the touch. No more heat sinks.

Because the brushless motor are governed by an ESC, there is less strain on the Rx, reducing RF noise and glitches.
[/list]

No more fuse is required between the main motor and Rx since the ESC will bear the brunt of the backlash. The MOSFET circuit in the ESC should be able to handle most crashes without possible burnout to your RX. However, you still need an ATO 3 Amp Fast blow fuse for the tail motor since the tail motor is still carbon brushed.
[/list]

The typical 370 carbon brushed motor lasts on average about 150 flights using an 11.1 volt LIPO battery before burnout.The brushless motors have no brushs to wear out. Hence a virtual long life span. Which means you can fly all day as long as you keep on changing the LIPO battery.
[/list]

Finally, the brushless motor looks cooler as they are CNC machined made to precision.


[/list]

downunderdog

Isn't the "standard" LIPO upgrade for the HBFP a 2 cell (8.4 V)? I'm thinking of getting one and wanted to get a couple of extra batteries, as well. Do people put 3S (11.1 V) LiPo's into these, or was that a mis-statement?

pinguin6218

Can anybody tell me if HBFP with stock receiver will work with Futaba 6EXP ?

67shelby

Yes, you are correct (standard" LIPO upgrade for the HBFP is a 2 cell 8.4 V). You wouldn't want to use an 11.1V battery on the stock motor (That's what I'm using on my Trex 450!)

pinguin6218

what is the max C ratingthe HBFP esc can handle ?

downunderdog

When ordering the HBFP for the first time, what spares should I get in the initial order? Can anyone recommend good improved (i.e. more durable and reliable and precise... based on my experience with CNC parts on the Lama V3, I don't necessarily want aluminum upgrades unless they really do improve the durability or flying characteristics) parts for the ones that break? Skids, blades, head parts, etc.? Is there a good link where I can get the improved parts AND the heli at the same place? I was thinking of getting the heli from xheli.com, but they mostly seem to have standard ESKY replacement parts. Are they as good as any others? Or does someone have a good link to a place that sells the heli's and the best aftermarket replacement parts?

Robertwav1

Hey guys,

I have a few HBFP's running a brushed motor with 11.1 V lipo. Faster and more power for me....the 4 in 1 will handle it. I've made so many changes with a longer tail boom aluminum, superskids, braces etc that the original 7.4 Volt lipo just don't have the A**. I've replaced probably one stock motor main and one tail motor in about 6 months and I fly a lot on the weekends. Use heatsinks on the motors and they last longer with the higher voltage. I set the thing down once and let it cool slightly. I have one with a tuned brushed motor that gets even more HP out of this thing with the higher volts but again cooling is the issue. Wood blades also on these things are awesom, you will never go back to plastic after trying them.

dchin62973

I also modified the E-SKYHBFP to run using an 11.1 volt LIPO. The main reason was after installing the super skids 300 landing gear system, the heat sinks on the main motor and tail motor, metal flybar rods, metal tail boom struts, metal rotor head core, titanum tail boom from super skids, ON/OFF switch, etc, the heli weighed in at about 13 ounces. A standard 7.4 volt LIPO could not lift the heli more than 2-3 feet above ground. The solution was to get a bigger 380 carbon brushed motor or use a larger battery. The problem with a 380 motor is that its RPMs are too high and will cause minor spinning as the tail motor cannot compensate. Not good when doing high speed flying or turning.

My answer - Go to a brushless motor setup with an 11.1 volt LIPO battery. The motors are lighter and more efficient than a regular carbon brushed motor. The carbon brushed motors heat up during flight and heat sinks are required. You also have to wait until the motor cools down before flying again otherwise risk the longevity of the carbon brushed motor. Brushless motors run luke warm to the to the touch. No more heat sink heats because the brushless motor are governed by an ESC. There is less strain on the Rx thus reducing RF noise and glitches.
[/list]

No more fuses are required between the main motor and Rx since the ESC will bear the brunt of the backlash. The MOSFET circuit in the ESC should be able to handle most crashes without possible burnout to your RX. However, you still need an ATO 3 Amp Fast blow fuse for the tail motor since the tail motor is still carbon brushed. The typical 370 carbon brushed motor lasts on average about 150 flights using an 11.1 volt LIPO battery before burnout. A brushless motors has no brushes to wear out. Hence a virtual long life span. Which means you can fly all day as long as you keep on changing the LIPO battery.
[/list]

Finally, the brushless motor looks cooler as they are CNC machined made to precision.


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CeYpyu_Z8c[/youtube]



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pinguin6218

for Roberwav1, what kind of motor you use (stock or not)? what is your battery mah and C you use?
But some other people report that they destroy the 4in1 controller by using the 11.1 v battery

swalke2

Anyone got an extra set of tail motor mount screws for a HBFP? Mine seem have seem to come undone in the grass....

maybe someone knows if you can order those screws without a new motor.

Bashnbreakalot

Most places that sell HBFP parts have a screw kit or such available. Here's one: http://www.ka-planes.com/inc/sdetail/5712
Also if you have an Ace hardware in your area they carry a surprising well stocked collection of small screws and such, it's saved me more than once.
BTW? What kind of grass do you have that un-does screws? Next thing you know you'll be missing a motor! JK.
Use some blue locktite this time 'k.

swalke2

Gahhhh  well I got my screws in lickity split.  No wI fire up the bird and the tail rotor does not move.  When powered down If i flick it with my finger it spins freely.  If I give it some juice and  the main starts to spin and i flick the tail rotor it will then begin to spin.  

Does it sound like I need a new one....maybe the internals are stripped from me trying to fly it before i noticed the tail screws were gone [X(]?

(I know to check everything now)

Thanks for any help
Steve

Robertwav1

I'm using a stock motor right now with 11.1 Volt pack. One of the heli's is 1000mah battery. The extra weight means nothing with the 11.1 volt Lipo. I'm going to go brushless, have the parts but not a chance to put it together yet. The 4 in 1 has to modified, I have the instructions. The only thing I notice is when you gun the heli the tail motor has a slight lag to react even with adjustments to the 4 in 1. I can deal with that though. I guess that's why the belt driven tail is better...I'm not sure though...I have a belt CP that has a slight lag also??? You get plenty out of the stock motors...just heat sink them...set the heli down once for a few to let the motors cool and then finish your battery.

spoonerrw

i have a honey bee 2 that i just got from "thinkrc.com". they seem to have every replacement part for these helicopters as well as alternative higher quality/durability part alternatives. have not checked out the parts for other heli's with them, but am sure they are just as well stocked with parts for all they sell.