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Esky Helicopters Discuss the line of Esky electric helis in here including the Honey Bee, Lama, Belt CP, etc

Esky honey bee CP

Old 05-06-2005, 07:07 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

ive broken the shearing pin how do i take off the main rotor head so i get remove the main shaft?
Old 05-06-2005, 08:52 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Giles25,



On the Honey Bee, there is a pin that is pressed through the head and shaft. It's located just below the flybar, and on mine I was able to grab it with a pair of pliers and just pull it out.

(If you sheared the pin that connects the main drive gear to the shaft, don't toss the gear and shaft, they are fixable ... I did mine and it's been working great.)

To get it back in, I take a large sewing needle (one that won't quite fit through the hole in the shaft), and use it to align the head and shaft holes. When you press the pin back in from one side, it will push the needle out the other side.

Removing and reinstalling this pin and head has gotten so routine and easy for me that I do it just to replace the main blades. Before, for me, trying to get the screw, washer, o-ring and blade all held in place while holding the heli upside down and then starting the screw use to use up most of my vocabulary and the better part of a beer. Removing the head from the heli and putting it upside down on the bench makes blade replacement easy.

Rick
Old 05-06-2005, 09:49 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Kermit, if it's $45 to upgrade the FP to CP then I would just spend $80 to get the complete CP kit and just use the FP as spare part for the CP.
Old 05-06-2005, 12:08 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

tnd2000,

Somewhere yesterday I had seen an ad for a closeout sale offering a Hummingbird CP for $69, but can't find it now.

Rick
Old 05-06-2005, 04:57 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

(sung to the tune of nanny nanny boo boo stick your head in do do ) i just bought a honeybee. !!!!!!!!!!!! can not wait til it gets here. i have had past rc exp. but am having trouble deciding on the best batteries for my new 3d ccp esky. could somebody tell me a brand to consider for batteries first and secondly a brand for chargers. i was wondering where to either buy another gyro or use the stock, and heatsinks where and what brand? basically i like eliminating any future events :crashes, mishaps youknow the mysterious blown up battery and house scenario...you know the simple stuff. pleeeezze help anybody with any detail (like a brooklander, new yorker) that u use or uses have to offa. tanks,- daniel.[
Old 05-06-2005, 07:14 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

For batteries, kokam brand is really nice:
Scroll down to the bottom of the page 11.1 v 3 cell 1200 Mah
http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm

You decide, but if you want your battery to last long, get a slow charger from heli-fever.com. Someone on here also said that breaking in the battery, meaning charging it with about 60 Mah overnight will also decrease the chance of ruinning it, when charging in the future. Click on batteries on the left and then on chargers and the 3 cell charger is on the very bottom. All that stuff about charging in 40 minutes is crap. Just ruins your battery. I used the stock charger on my stock battery and it's already messed up. Get about 4-5 min of flight time when it should be around 15.

As for heatsinks, no major brand is needed in my opinion, go to helihobby.com. Then click on electric rc helis. Scroll down to the esky ccpm 2 and click on parts. Then the heatsinks should be on the list.

As for the gyro, don't really know to that point, for me, the stock 4-1 board works out all right so far.


What kind of rc experience have you had?
If you are just starting out in helis, crashes are nearly unavoidable, unless you get a nice sim.

Also check out www.allerc.com and www.balsapr.com for just some general parts for helis.
Old 05-06-2005, 08:21 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

casipak and DELTAnine,

I was the one who said something about slow charging ("60 ma") but I was using that as an example of one of the quirks of breaking in a NiHydride battery on it's first charge. Do the first charge at 1/10 C, or 60 ma for a 600 mah hydride battery.

I can't speak for a break in for Lipolys, but from everything I have read, as a rule of thumb, you never want to charge them over 1C, or more than one times the capacity. For instance, if you have a 1200 mah pack, don't exceed 1200 ma charge rate. Charging one slower than that is ok, but never faster. If your charger uses jumpers to set the charge rate, and the closest rate exceeds 1C, then go for the safe side and go the next rate lower. Exceeding the charge rate can overheat them, cause them to swell and possibly burst with likely flammable results. From what I've read, if/when they burst, the electrolyte will sometimes be in flames, sorta like napalm. I guess it would make sense not to charge one when mounted on the heli if you are really paranoid.

As far as blowing up the house or starting a fire ... all the the Lipoly manufacturers are pretty adamant about not leaving one on charge unattended. Most chargers (and some batteries) have safety circuitry to avoid the overcharge/napalm syndrome, but I don't think I would leave home with one on charge unless it was "on the barbeque pit in the back yard". I might be "over anal", but I put mine on my cast iron table saw in my shop just to be on the safe side, and don't start a charge unless I'm somewhere nearby. (We had our house destroyed by fire some years back from what they said was an electrical fire, so I'm still a little gun-shy)

Other than that, Lipo's are great. The have a lot of power for their weight, and partially discharging them before recharging doesn't tick them off like NiCads.

One other important thing about Lipos is that a single cell is fully charged around 4 volts, and fully discharged around 3 volts (these are approximate voltages for sake of explanation, so please look up the exact values). If you discharge one below 3 volts, it will shorten the life of the cell and/or ruin it. If you use a 2-cell pack (7 point whatever volts), in a micro-heli, the chances are that by the time the battery approaches the "low voltage danger" level, the heli has already landed because it doesn't have the power to lift it anymore. However, if you are using a 3-cell pack, (11 point whatever volts), you can probably run one past the "low voltage danger level" because the heli will probably still fly on 6-volts, but for a 3-cell pack, that's, 2 volts per cell, or way below what you want to discharge it to.

Lipo's are great, just be aware of their main caveat and main limitation.

Rick
Old 05-06-2005, 08:50 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

casipak,

I mis-spoke yesterday ... to quote myself:

My charger didn't break the bank. I got an Apache 1215 and can be set with jumpers for 1 to 3 cells, and up to 1500 ma. It normally sells for about $50. I ordered the next cheaper model initially for $24.95, they were out of stock, so the guy sent me the $50 charger for the $25 price. My plan is to most likely get the Triton when I feel like I outgrow this one, but so far it does just fine.
The 1215 was what I originally ordered ... the 2500 is what they substituted for the same price. It's been a pretty nifty charger, especially for the price, so far. I would still be willing to pay full price ($49.95) for it. It will handle up to 4 cells (14.8 volts) and 2500 ma ... not bad for fifty bucks. You do need to provide the 12-volt power supply just like the Triton.

Rick

Old 05-06-2005, 09:21 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

All right, I see. I was thinking of getting that but not sure.

You can get a voltage checker for lipos for around 10 bucks. You plug it into your receiver and just fly. Say you have a 3 cell lipo, the lowest voltage you can discharge it to, is 9 volts. So you fly and fly and once the battery reaches 9 bolts, the light on the on board checker will go on, signaling that it is time to land. Very nice little gadget you can use to save your lipos.


I just wanted to clear everything up before I buy the radio. The berg single conversion will work with the hitec eclipse 7, right?
I just pop out the old crystal from the receiver and plug the berg one back in?

Also, does futaba use the channel modules, meaning if you want a different frequency, you gotta buy a whole module and you can't just get a crystal for the radio?
Old 05-06-2005, 11:06 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Slow charging is a trick that works for Ni-mh batteries. I don't think it does any good with li-po batts. As Kermit said, the rule of thumb for li-po is never charge at over 1C. So if you have a 1200mah li-po 1.2A is the max that you should set your charger for. Also, you never want to run them down below 3.3v per cell. So for a 3 cell li-po never let it get below 9.9v. If it does it will get hot and the batteries are permenantly damaged (generally you get reduced flight time).

As far as Futaba TXs. The 9C TXs use modules. The 7C TXs use crystals. It's Ok to change modules. Technically it is against the law to change TX crystals, but in reality no one enforces it. However, the TX is tuned to it's frequency. So changing the crystal will decrease it's range. But with micro helis, which are always pretty close in, it probably doesn't matter.
Old 05-06-2005, 11:15 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

as far as i heard the absolute lowest critical voltage per cell i hear is 2.5v ( and i even think i saw it written on a lipo somewhere before, maybe it was an electrifly batt) But i think most people use 3 volts per cell as a safe low voltage indicator, i bought one from edesigns i think it was, and its for a 3 cell lipo pack and turns on the warning light at 9 volts.


Just remember, this is underload voltage, techincally you cant stop the heli and put a meter on it and get a true reading of what the low voltage really was while the motors were spinning.

My batts when the 9 volt light comes on, and i pull them from the heli read between 11 and 11.3 volts on a voltmeter with no load.
Old 05-07-2005, 12:23 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Yeah, the lowest I've read after a flight is 10.9v. The 3.3v per cell is from Thunder Power's instructions that came with my TP2100s. So I go by that. But you're right, they are saying 3.3v per cell with no load.
Old 05-07-2005, 08:39 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP


ORIGINAL: kermitdafrog

casipak,

I mis-spoke yesterday ... to quote myself:

My charger didn't break the bank. I got an Apache 1215 and can be set with jumpers for 1 to 3 cells, and up to 1500 ma. It normally sells for about $50. I ordered the next cheaper model initially for $24.95, they were out of stock, so the guy sent me the $50 charger for the $25 price. My plan is to most likely get the Triton when I feel like I outgrow this one, but so far it does just fine.
The 1215 was what I originally ordered ... the 2500 is what they substituted for the same price. It's been a pretty nifty charger, especially for the price, so far. I would still be willing to pay full price ($49.95) for it. It will handle up to 4 cells (14.8 volts) and 2500 ma ... not bad for fifty bucks. You do need to provide the 12-volt power supply just like the Triton.

Rick


What is the choice of a 12V power supply? I have the esky field charger that came with my heli and I was thinking of buying a 12V power adpter from Radio Shack. Any thoughts?
Old 05-07-2005, 08:54 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

If I get the charger from heli-fever, I'll use my 12 v adapter I got from wal-mart for around $15. But that charger doesn't need alligator clips, it's got a female jack and my adapter has around 6 male jacks that I can pick from. But for most chargers I've seen, they got the alligator clips. Go to helihobby.com and type in chargers in search or something. I don't remember myself how to get to the chargers page but if you just search for it, it'll show up. They a bunch of chargers and at the bottom they got a power supply for 10 bucks with alligator clips.
Haven't been to radio shack in a while so I can't help you with that.

rbiasi,
Did I guess right on the switching crystals? Take the old receiver crystal out and pop the berg one back in and I should be fine?
Carbon fiber blades should arrive next week!
Old 05-07-2005, 10:08 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

casipak,
Yep, pop out the old crystal and pop in the berg. There is a little paper tab on the crystals. It's usually folded over and tucked in next to it. If you fish that out with a pin or paper clip you can use it as a handle to pull out the crystal.

So did you get the Eclipse 7?
Old 05-07-2005, 10:18 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

For the 12v power supply, remember that the field chargers are made to hook up to a 12v car battery. So you'll need a 12v supply that supplies some serious power. Most places that sell chargers also sell 12v switching power supplies. Take a look at the specs for those. The ones that I've looked at are 10A.

I got a Dynamite Vision Peak Ultra. You can either plug it into the wall or hook it to a 12v source. It's $90, but thats about the cost of a good charger and 12v PS.
Old 05-07-2005, 12:50 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Well, I was hoping to get the radio a couple of days ago, but my dad ended up going to the hospital(low blood level) and I didn't get the chance to get the radio, but he just came back home a couple of minutes ago, so hopefully I'll get the radio today,if it hasn't been sold yet. I got a himax brushless motor 4100 kv. I was wondering, If I place it in the heli, will my headspeed remain the same or be a lot higher? I know flight times will be small but if I get the radio, could I set the headspeed to be nearly perfect, so the heli is more stable, yet the headspeed is not high enough to waste a lot of juice?

I'll probably need a high discharge battery that doesn't get damaged by such a powerful motor?
Also what's that bec thing?
Old 05-07-2005, 01:04 PM
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bec = battery eliminator circut. With a BEC you do not need a separate battery for the RX. The ESC plugs into your RX on channel 3. ESCs with a BEC are setup to supply power to the RX through the same wire. Hope that makes sense.
Old 05-07-2005, 01:08 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I understand almost all of it but I'm going to need a separate battery?
Old 05-07-2005, 01:30 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

casipak what kind of esc are you going to be using with that himax motor, as far as batteries i have used the stock esky 1000mah with the himax, i know it cant source enough current if i throttle too hard my 9 volt warning light comes on within a minute of flying however if i bump the pitch up and let the motor run alittle slower and just do basic hovering i can get it to fly 8 to 10 minutes.


i have a 1500mah battery that i had put to the side because i had found the extra weight was burning out my tail rotors due to them having to work alot harder to counter the torque from the main blades. but now that it is totally brushless i tried the 1500mah battery, and it actually could source alittle more current than the esky 1000mah its a pain though because the extra weight makes me have to reset the heli by tinkering with pitch and throttle curves alittle to make up for the added weight.
Old 05-07-2005, 02:18 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I finally got my HB2 out to fly today. This thing is tough. It flys pretty good. And its fairly stable. The trouble I had, since it was a new heli, I was a little nervous about getting on the throttle and getting in the air. After the first few hovers, I hooked one of the landing skids in the grass and flipped it. It broke one of the main rotors. So, I knew most of my flying was done for the afternoon, but I wanted to see what would happen if I tried to lift off with it. To my suprise, it not only lifted off, but it could still hover pretty good, with one of the blades broke, and at an odd angle. But I need to add a disclamer, I was staying well away from it, and was around nothing that would be damaged or hurt if the blade broke. I would not advise anyone to try this. Where is the cheapest place to get new blades with cheap shipping? Thanks
Old 05-07-2005, 09:06 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I wanted to get the phoenix 10. Will I need anything else? If I get the eclipse 7, will it be possible to set the headspeed to be better that normal but not enough to get really lousy flight times?

Any suggestions for a new battery to support the motor?


You can get PE blades for 3 bucks at heli-fever but not sure about cheap shipping though. The stock blades will run for about $12-$20. Maybe they are cheaper somewhere else but I haven't found the place. Another thing you can do is make your own blades out of balsa. Make a template and sand them down and balance them. That's what I did, works great!
Old 05-07-2005, 09:48 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Crusher,

I was working on my shop today and just came inside, so missed a lot of posts.

Power Supply ... The supply I'm using is a 4.5 amp switcher. It originally was set to 12 volts internally, and was used to power an industrial touchscreen PC, sorta like a notebook PC, which I currently use for my GPS in my motorhome. (It looks identical to the two chargers that I have for my two electric scooters, except they are 24 and 36 volt models.) I found that it had a trim pot inside, and when I set it to max, it will hold about 13.2 volts up to it's 4.5 amp limit. 13.2 volts is about what you want to "float chage" a lead acid battery at for long term (that's what my motorhome batteries float at when it's in storage over the winter to keep from boiling them dry), so it pretty well simulates a car battery while the car is parked with the engine not running. I have several of these and also use one to float charge my 12 volt 100 amp hour AGM battery that I run my Ham Radio tranceiver with. I also use another one to run my Graupner NiMh charger, and my GWS NiMh charger for my park flyers with.

A good portable supply is to use a garden tractor battery, which is available from Sams Club for about $16, and use a cheapie $20 automotive charger to keep it topped up when you're home. Another good supply is one of the Coleman Powermate emergency hand carried jump start packs (Pep Boys for under $50). It comes with a wall charger and a cigarette lighter plug to charge it from your car. It's also good for jump starting cars:-)

The little 12-volt gel cells, like I use to start my Nitro and Gas airplanes (from Tower Hobbies) also works good, and they are the same price as the garden tractor battery, but you won't spill any acid with one.

Rick
Old 05-07-2005, 09:55 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

casipak,

for me i think a 10c 1200mah battery is probably the best bet for the hb2

the stock transmitter allows for very little tweaking, with the eclipse youll be able to do whatever you want with the head speed , mainly by using pitch and throttle curves.


i have a hitec optic 6, you can even change pitch and throttle curves some during flight, like i can have really high head speed in a hover, and i can throw the pitch lever up and it will increase the pitch the farther i move the lever the higher the pitch goes without effecting the throttle setting, and same for throttle i can use a different lever and boost the throttle while hovering but leave the pitch alone. So its nice to be able to adjust it the way you want, however tweak it wrong and the heli flys like crap
Old 05-08-2005, 08:06 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Yeah, I like the idea of being able to do what you want but the screwing up the controls part scares me.
I'll just see what happens.
Will the eclipse 7 work with reflex xtr or aerofly pro?


There's a 10c battery right here:
http://www.rc-dymond.com/order_batteries_lipol.htm

9th one down

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