casipak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the help.
I think my tail motor is about to go because when I gave the motor power to turn around, it sounded a little weird. When I landed and gave the tail maximum power, the motor was spinning in jerks. It would spin really hard and then slow and ll of a sudden fast again, etc.
Or maybe it could be the bad battery.

tnd2000

If it was the battery you would've noticed a problem with the main motor long before anything on the tail. It probably is the tail motor that's bad, but you might want to check the gears and wire connections and make sure they are not loose.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

Well, I got my battery today and looks nice. Oh, by the way, the tail problems are gone so I guess it was the battery. The battery had about 11.40 volts and The heli wasn't able to get that high off the ground but I'll see how it performs when I charge it.

Paedbo, what kind of flight times are you getting with your dymonds?


edit
Bell1684,
it sounds like you are talking about removing the crystal just out of the radio. I meant from the module that is found in the high end TXs.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

i dont know i never got to officially time it, i would say i get at least 10 mintues of hover out of the dymond 1200mah battery, with a himax 2015-4100, and a fiegao tail motor.


11.6 volts? mine normally shows about 10.6 volts on the charger after a flight, so the bat probably doesnt have that much of a charge in it.

as for the high end tx's and crystal in the module. Not sure what your talking about, the module in my hitec i just take it out turn the pots to whatever channel i want and put it back in. Maybe your talking about the futaba radios?

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

I flew for about 1 or two minutes after I got the battery in the mail and that's when it was 11.6.

As the for the crystal. I heard that there is a module in the radio and in the module is a crystal. Is it possible to just change the crystal inside the module without buying a whole new module?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

im not entirely sure, those modules might be made so you can change out channels quickly, like on my rc truck if i want to change the crystal in the transmitter i have to have it professionaly serviced because for some reason when you put a new diff channel crystal in it the radio has to be retuned or tweaked for the new channel so maybe these modules bypass having to do that since they are tuned to the crystal they came with.

rbiasi

The modules don't have a crystal in them. They have a circuit that synthesizes the frequency. So if you want a different freq you need a new module. Or buy the spectra which you can dial to a freqency.

batfalcon

Guys,

Sorry to put the same question, but I really want to know.

How many mAh does your charger put in your Lithium pack relatively with the pack's labeled capacity ?

My pack for example is labeled 1200 mAh but never saw any number bigger than 980 mAh after a full charge. 2 months after the first use of this particular pack, it only gets 650 mAh.
Of course the flight time is greatly reduced.

The pack is 7.4 V (2 cell) and has been used on my FP Twister. I have always charged it with the "Triton".

Michael

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

my 1000mah esky lipo battery would take roughly 800mah,


the two dymond 1200mah batteries i have now will both take just a hair under 1000mah, ( last charge was 995)

batfalcon

I assume that all of them are 11,1 V, right ?

scottyfusion

My Feedback: (1)

hello fellow helli heads! i just got off the horizon site and i cant wait for them to have the "blade" in stock. they already have all the parts listed (just not availile yet). it will be nice to be able to get parts from a hobby monster like horizon.
they r going to have a crash kit for it. it comes with blades, skids, fly bar and rear rotor. total cost....$18! thats pretty sweet!! and we now have a couple of diffrent canopies to choose from. the blade is yellow.
has anyone seen the night ranger 2? its sold by venom racing [link]http://www.venom-aircorps.com[/link] i think this canopi will fit also. i like the black and green it looks a little evil!! does anyone know what this is. its not a hunnybee. looks realy close but its not.

Scotty

rbiasi

batfalcon,
If your li-po is taking less amps and giving you reduced flight times it's probably damaged. Thats what happens if you run them down too far. The internal resistance in the battery increases. I did that to one of my TP2100 batts for my Rex. Expensive lesson. []

scotty,
Yeah, the blade parts are priced nice! I can't wait until they are available. On the Venom heli, my LHS carries it. I've used some parts from it on my HB2 when I'm in a pinch. Most of the micro helis have some interchangeable parts, you just have to check. I think the canopy will fit. I think it's yet another GWS/Feda/Jabo Dragonfly based heli.

scottyfusion

My Feedback: (1)

wher r u guys getting the pe blades at? i cant find them, ive been looking for an hour online. im starting to lose my mind over here!!

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

pe blades are in the upgrade section of heli-fever.com those blades are only good for beginner hovering, they have lower head speed, when i first started out the higher head speed of the stock blades would scare me i wouldnt lift the thing more than a foot off the ground, when i put the pe blades on it though for some reason i felt more confident , plus i knew it was just foam blades so i couldnt do all that much damage, they really helped me get my confidence up to hover then i switched back to the woodies.


bat yes 11.1 lipo

brianreed31714

Help!!! After reading this forum for a week or so I decided to buy an HB2 - it arrived yesterday from Solaa via ebay upon this forums recommendation (thankyou). Long story short - played around with the heli last night - very cool. This afternoon took it out for a real flight outside. Cranked it up, got off the ground 3 feet then I crashed it - lightly, but broke the tail protector rod and the battery came out. I've replaced the tail protector, replaced the main blades with the included replacements, and charged the battery again (11.1V Lipo).

Now the main blades won't rotate fast enough to get the heli off the ground. I tried the NiMh as well - no luck. Everything appears to be fine, but when I throttle up - right around max power it seems to slow and the controller light goes from green to red. What the heli is wrong with this thing? I'm wondering if it's:
1. Controller is screwed up - if so can I reset it somehow?
2. Engine is fried - seems to crank quite fast but no go.
3. Could I have loosened the connection between the swashplate and the brass ball - so that not enough power is tranfered to the main blades?

Please advise.

Thanks - Brian

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

first see if the swash plate is split in half you can glue it back together., when the swashplate seperates, what happens is it cant control the pitch of the blades when it spins up so they will stay near 0 pitch or maybe alittle negative pitch and the heli wont take off.

and it is normal for the light to turn red near full throttle.

make sure the fly bar paddles are level with the swash plate and to each other and are facing the proper direction. and for the main blades they spin clockwise. you said you replaced the main blades did you make sure they were put in the right way and not backwards? ( they can be put on upside down)


check the ball links for the pitch control to the main blade make sure one of them didnt pop off,

make sure the 2 oval shapped plastic pieces that connect to the swash plate that go around the main blade grips, arent cracked, you can have one cracked and not notice it until its under pressure.

and with the stock transmitter most people say they have to move the throttle trim almost all thet way up to get the heli to take off, mine would take off well with the throttle trim anywhere above halfway.

thats about all i can think off right now off the top of my head.

brianreed31714

Paedbo - thanks for the quick response. Ok I checked the heli for everything you mentioned that could be wrong, and unfortuneately everything looks fine. Nothing cracked, disconnected, the blades and fly bar paddles are aligned and going in the right direction. Waht really bothers me is that the main blade seems to slow / slip the faster the motor goes. How can this be tightened?

Thanks,
Brian

rbiasi

It sounds like you broke the pin that holds the center hub to the main shaft. Towards the bottom of the head assembly there is a pin that connects it to the shaft. Yank that out with pliers to see if it broke. If it did you'll need to clean out the broken bits with a pin or paper clip and put in a new pin.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

ahh yes rbiasi is right i knew i was forgetting something!

scottyfusion

My Feedback: (1)

well i got my parts last night. iwent to put them on and neede to take out the main mast...well it was bent and the bearings r to tight to fit over the bend......long story short i need new bearings and a couple of bandaids for my thumb (layed it wide open trying to get that dang bearing off). anybody know if these bearings r available from something else that someone might have at a LHS? i dont want to have to order them and wait AGAIN!

scottyfusion

My Feedback: (1)

im back!! after a little research i found out that hpi uses these same bearings in alot of tere cars witch means they should be pretty availible anywhere. just thought id let you all know.

rbiasi

scotty,
For future reference (and to save your thumbs) the hole on the main shaft for the "jesus pin" (the pin that holds the rotor head to the shaft) tends to get burrs on it from the force of spinning up the head. When you pull the rotor head off you need to clean this up with a jewlers file and light sandpaper before you can get the shaft out. Otherwise it gets stuck on the swash plate and bearings as you discovered. It's somewhat of a PITA, but spending a little time cleaning it up saves you from have to replace other parts.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

Guys, I'm sending the radio money order in today(finally!!) and hopefully will get the radio next week. Now I was looking at cables for aerofly pro deluxe and reflex xtr and I found this usb one. What do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

Looking at the chart, it looks like I'll need the U3 cable.

rbiasi

Well, I finally got a chance to stop by Dymond yesterday. Great shop. I picked up a couple of their 3 cell 2000mah li-po's for my TRex. I talked to the owner for a while. Nice guy. He flys a Raptor and a TRex. I tried one of the batts in my rex this morning. Sweet! just as much punch as my TP2100s or Kokams for less than half the price.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

casipak i thought reflex had its own interface that it came with and you had to buy the proper adapter for the radio your using?


im not sure if reflex will work with just any usb interface, i could be wrong though, so look into it alittle better just in case. I also think its setup this way so that nobody pirates the software,


and by the way i finally decided what heli i was going to get, i kept waiting on the ark x400 pro kit, and the trex 450XL, but after some thinking, i am going with a logo 10 3D, i have the honey bee 2 for now to keep practicing on, i could buy everything for the logo 10 up front but i think im going to do it alittle at a time over the course of about 4 to 5 weeks to make sure i get good parts and dont rush anything.


I will probably also end up with a trex 450XL depending on the feedback i see from people, but i have a feeling the honey bee's days are limited.