casipak

My Feedback: (3)

I had that same problem and I never really got it fixed. I kind of fixed it to the best of my ability and lived with that. Then I got the cf blades and the tracking was perfect.

I have a question, after flight, one side of my 4 in 1 box seems to be a little warm and the battery wire that comes out of it is warm as well. Is this serious?

ARE THERE SOME STURDY ALUMINUM SKIDS FOR THE HB ANYWHERE?

By the way, I finally learned nose in hovering but I can only go into it clockwise. Had to go through about 3 paperclip pins though.

raz54

You might want to only fly half your battery, let the motors cool down and then fly out the pack. The motors and electronics will live longer. Congrats on the 'nose in' too. If you have the hb cp2 the landing gear should be the same as the Humming Bird and Heli Hobby sells some upgradeed landing gear in different styles.

helidreamer-RCU

Hey Kj, the same thing happened to me when I crashed. I think that it's not my tail prop. that's off but the rudder is reversed. CAUSED I TRIED EVERY FRICKEN SETTING ON THE TAIL PROP. but everytime, the tail spins to the left non stop. So its either the gyro that's reversed or the tail. So before I got a chance to reverse the tail, I crashed the same way you crashed, It spun WAAAAY outta control and I crashed the exact same way. Breaking one of those balls off but magically, I didn't break a blade but bent it, so I just straightened it out. Anyway, how did you fix the ball thing again and WHAT SHOULD THE PROPORTION BE. like how many turns from - or +. Can anyone tell me?

kj2833

unless you changed some of the wiring i doubt that its off, it is probaly both your gyro gain, and your proportion. this may not work on yours but this is about what mine is set at.

gyro - 51-55% of turn or a tiny bit past halfway. turn the gyro up until the tail starts hunting a bit left, then right, then back it down a tiny bit.

proportion - almost dead even with the "-" sign on the controller or 25-27% of the full circle if imagining the hole as 100%


fixing the ball on the rotor head- i used a tiny 2cm nail, i dont know what they are for just found it in the drill box. I pressed it through a little bit to the inside of were the ball used to be with a hammer and a vise. This is kinda tricky btw, you may be better off just getting some rotor heads. i then bent the nail around the ball-link until there was no slop or up and down movement of the ball link- you dont want any movement. I had no rotor heads and just improvised with what i had.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

i would use nail polish brush for the tracking, i would make sure there wasnt alot of nail polish on the brush though otherwise itll splat all over, but anyways i would spin up the heli till i knew the blades werent tracking and i would slowly lower the head of the brush on the outter edge of the blades till the brush would touch the higher one, id let it spool down then i would know which blade was too high,

helidreamer-RCU

THANKS ALOT MAN!!

interestiong...

jlb0305

I know which ones not tracking properly because i have red and black tape on the ends. it only slightly affects the flight but its really annoying and i can't do 3d because of it. any suggestions? any tricks that have worked? I just really don't feel like replacing the whole head to try to fix it.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

I'll try flying for half the pack. But why do the electronics get warm?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

the motor's esc is in the 4 in 1 box, i think mine warmed up too, when i used to have it.

raz54

Have you tried another set of blades? Some times one will have a slight warp. I had one set that flew okay but never could get them to track right, of coarse I was not doing any 3D though.

jlb0305

I tried 2 sets of PE blades then the eSky blades are the ones with the red and black tape. all have the same problem. i don't know what to do.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

are you adjusting the pitch of each individual blade? you should be able to change the tracking of ANY blade! however some people run into issues where the blades will track right at lower speeds but not higher speeds, and vice versa. but you should be able to adjust the ball links that go to the blade grips and get it fairly close.

raz54

paedbo is right, you should be able to get them close. I always tried to go a little above 1/2 throttle and adjust them for that since I would be flying at that speed. Also keep in mind the blades will be pitched up a little so they will not look as smooth as they would at a slow speed (flat). It should still hover smooth though, if you have them balanced properly.

rotarypower3

Check your feathering shaft. A bent one will not allow you to get the tracking right.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

paedbo, how's the logo?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

hi casipak since this is a honey bee thread i guess ill have to just compare the logo to the honey bee to make sure we stay on topic :-)

The kit blew me away, the parts quality are amazing, I have the heli all assembled, im only waiting on main blades. It comes with fiberglass main blades but for some reason im like one of the few people in the world that actually get a set of blades that are too far out of balance, i was told the most they should ever be out of balance is by the weight of a small 1 inch by 1 inch piece of tape. So anyways now i have to return them to have them replaced plus im waiting on a cheap set of wood blades that i will use for the maiden flight ( i dont want to ruin $80 fiberglass blades if i crash it)

If tower hobbies gets my blades out today or tomorrow i should get them by the end of the week. I'll take a pic of the logo 10 next to whats left of the honey bee lol

ill post it in a few minutes

-edit-

heres some pics of the two next to each other

http://www.magnut.net/logohoney.jpg

http://www.magnut.net/logohoney2.jpg

and heres a photo of the logo 10 with the canopy and blades attached

http://www.magnut.net/logo.jpg

the motor itself on the logo 10 weighs more than the entire honey bee 2 all together.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

That looks real nice!! Be sure to post a video some time!
The honey bee seems so small now.

My old battery got me really ticked off because while I was charging the dymond, I took the hb for a flight in the back yard and I seriously got about 2 minutes of flight. Then, the heli dropped to 1 inch off the ground and kept hitting the grass and falling over.

But, I did learn how to do circles around my living room with ease.

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

Hey thats great, although my honey bee is a mess i do have all new parts to bring her back to prestine condition ( except i dont have a 4 in 1 box)

anyways i been flying the colco thunderbird for practice


you will definetly get videos once im confident with the bigger heli,

has anyone flown both a blade and a honey bee 2 or honey bee 2 cp2? im curious to find out how they compare directly.

i also wanted to know what happened to the gear driven honey bee that someone posted a site on it awhile back

i cant seem to find the link for it again it may be buried in this thread somewhere and i just missed it.

helidreamer-RCU

Sorry this may be a retarded question, but how do you remove the entire rotor head from the main shaft. Because I removed the two pins stuck in the rotor head, then disconnected every linkage from the swashplate but still can't get the rotor head off. PLEASE HELP!!

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

You need to take out the main gear first. That'll will be easier because there's a little piece of the pin in the main gear that's sticking out and not letting you pull out the head. You just can't see it. I had the same problem. If you pull on the main gear, it should come out and then the head is free. Once you remove the main gear, use a paper clip to remove the little piece of the pin in the main gear shaft hole.

helidreamer-RCU

Thanks for that, however, I don't understand how there is a piece of pin in the main gear that's not letting me pull out the cetnerhub/bladegrip/flybar assembly off the main shaft. I know there is a little pin stuck in the hole IMMEDIATELY UNDER the blade grips. But how is there can a pin be that long to reach the main gear to the head.....??

raz54

casipak is talking about the pin that holds the whole head assy. on the main shaft, not the feathering shaft. The pin is located down close to the bottom of the head assy. You need to pull that pin out to remove the head. If the pin broke there will be just enough of it left to keep the head from coming off easily. If you don't see any of the pin try sticking a needle in the hole to push out the remaining piece then while holding the gear twist and pull the head off the shaft. The feathering shaft is the one the blade grips mount to and it can be removed with out removing the head.

gazmik

paedbo
that version is called the honey bee king and when I find the thing i'll let you know ...i'm very tempted hmmmm......logo looks scary?!

gazmik

hey raz,
been trying some idea's out on the "TAIL" problem. I got a new DD motor & boom section.The motor mounts the opposite way(blade on the LHS) so I wired the motor up backwards then fitted the stock tail blade & so far its working good.
plus the blade is blowing across the motor, so it's cooling it down as well.
when i can figure out how to post pictures I'll show you.

gazmik

that was'nt so bad. the tail photo's are in my gallery.
it needs tidying up a bit but what do you think people, comments welcome lol