raz54

Hey if it works that's great. Keep me posted okay. I'm still wondering how well the coreless motors hold up and so far no one has answered.

gazmik

whats one of those?????

gazmik

paedbo i also wanted to know what happened to the gear driven honey bee that someone posted a site on it awhile back

i cant seem to find the link for it again it may be buried in this thread somewhere and i just missed it.


not available till august but here it is. http://www.esky-sz.com/english/produ...pter/index.asp
I reckon the site is on dial up 56k lol

helidreamer-RCU

Thanks man, now I get it, and thanks to you too casipak. Yes, my pin is broken and I'm gonna use a pin or paper clip to remove that little middle piece of the pin.

helidreamer-RCU

guys, what do you use to hold the spindle in order to unscrew the screw that's in it in order to perfor m the stick collective mod? like pliers with paper towels on the spindle and pliers (papers towels so pliers won't scrath spindle, or what...

raz54

Are you talking about removing the blade grips? If you are you need another allen wrench so you can put one in each bolt in the grips and turn them both. One bolt will come out then you can slide the feathering shaft out

raz54

Are you asking what a coreless motor is? I really couldn't tell you how they work but they are a good motor. The hirobo xrb uses them and they seem to hold up but you can not get them hot, the epoxy will melt and they are not cheap. The size that would work for a tail motor is $35.00 from H.H.

helidreamer-RCU

no no no, I"m talking about, once you already slide the feather shaft out, how do you get a good grip on the shaft so you can unscrew the other screw that's i nthe feather shaft

raz54

Sorry, I see what you are saying now. To tell you the truth I didn't take both out. I only took out one so I could take out the shaft and check to see if the washers and spacers were in right. I would think you could wrap a rag around the shaft then hold it wwith some pliars, the screw should be to hard to get out.

helidreamer-RCU

Yes, that's what i did, but it took 3 hands to hold it tight enough so it won't slip!

gazmik

I just got hold of mine with a pair of long-nose pliers that are smooth.It's a tough shaft & I did no damage to mine.
raz that sounds good, must take a look. just got a 2nd hbcp2 barebone so i can break almost what i like. lol
happy flying!

helidreamer-RCU

hey guys, can you tell me or a link to a site that showws where put the linkages from the swash, to the rotor head.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

It's only two linkages from the head that connect to the little balls on the swash. I can't tell you off hands because I'm not quite sure how to explain but just take a very close look at the head assembly and you should get it. The two little balls on the swash go inside the two side things that look like the top paddle control frame.


I have the himax 4100 kv brushless motor and I was wondering if there was any point in installing it on the hb. Is it too powerful and will it kill my fly time?
I also have been getting a lot of interference lately inside the house and in the yard. The heli flies up and then it drops like a rock and then jumps back up and sometimes the blades jerk hard. Any ideas?

Oh yeah, for the hitec eclipse, I'll need to buy the berg single conversion futaba/jr shift, right? I couldn't find the page where we discussed that topic.

helidreamer-RCU

I just figured it out myself casipak thanks though. Yes, me too. Strange because I havn't been getting any interference from my Nitro Car FM radio and my caliber 30 fm radio....

kj2833

Hey guys money wasnt an object when i bought my cp2. i have a new heli in the mail as we speak. I have over 300 in upgrades/oem parts to be included. I learned to fly it pretty fast, but since my new one was on its way and i had tons of spare parts i decided to try and get it inverted. I managed to crack the frame where the tail boom goes in. This is one of the few parts i dont have, and dont intend on buying. Tell me you saw it on here and i will end the auction early, and take the first one from here at $200.00. You have to contact me and tell me you saw it here. I pay shipping. tons of parts, 2 new main and five new tail motors, two lipos and the actual heli kit as well as a crap load of more stuff. view the listing for a complete list.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MESE%3AIT&rd=1

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

casipak, when they talk about single or dual conversion receivers, you only have to worry about matching a single or dual conversion crystal, with a single or dual conversion receiver,


when it comes to transmitters and receivers, you only worried about positive or negative shift,


futaba/hitec ( not jr) are i believe negative shift

and JR is positive shift.

and i think your eclipse will do negative or positive shift, it should have it in the menu somewhere.

KidNovak

> no no no, I"m talking about, once you already slide the feather shaft out, how do you get a good grip on the
> shaft so you can unscrew the other screw that's i nthe feather shaft.

Here's an easy way to remove the other allen bolt from the spindle shaft.
With a pair of pliers, grip one of the washers that is still attached to the spindle shaft, now loosen the allen bolt.
You should now be able to hold the shaft with your fingers and take out the allen bolt.

Hope this helps, Novak

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

Ok, so the esky receiver is negative shift and so is the eclipse and so the single conversion will work, right?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

I would just say buy a receiver people recommend like the berg and when you buy it just make sure you buy a crystal to go with it alot of places when you buy the receiver you have the option to buy the matching crystal.

i believe the esky receiver is a single conversion negative if i remember correctly, but it does not matter what you buy as long as you have enough channels on the receiver, and its small enough for the honey bee,

i forget if you have the frequency module with the eclipse does it allow you to select any channel you want? If so maybe you would be interested in the receiver i bought, its a shadow sombra 3, http://www.kennedycomposites.com/sombra.html it has no crystal! you simply plug the programmer into it and set whatever channel you want it to be on. This way if you take it out to the field and your not able to use the channel its currently on you can dial in another one easily with the receiver and transmitter. The sombra also has automatic positive or negative shift detection, it has fail safe modes that you can set the way you want, for instance if my receiver loses signal from the transmitter, it will hold the last "good" signal that it received for 3 seconds , if it doesnt get the signal back then it will shut down until it does get one. This is one feature i like, Since when i used the esky receiver, if it lost signal the motor would cut out right away and id lose alot of altitude plus when the motor spun back up you had no idea what orientation the heli was going to end up in, anyways im sure other receivers have some of the same features.


(btw casipak i have gotten the logo 10 light on the skids im still working out trying to get the right head speed. its alittle low. anyways just from being light on the skids i can tell its going to be like night and day with how steady it flys compared to micro heli's. it was alot of work to get it assembled but honestly i had alot of fun doing it.)

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

I can't get the cash for the receiver right now but you guys told me that I could just buy a crystal. Someone told me here that they bought a crystal for their receiver and it worked just fine.

gazmik

hi all, just have a problem with my cp2
does anyone know what voltage & amps should be going to the tail motor cos I have 11.2V & 0.7a and the motor isn't turning.now i've checked the motors (tried two) on a seperate battery & they work ok. totally stumped! got a feeling it's the 4 in 1 any idea's?

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

ok casipak so you dont have spectra trans then, and you need to match the receiver to the transmitter? i didnt realize you were reusing the esky receiver, in that case yes you want do want to match the crystal to the receiver and the receiver is a single conversion negative shift.



by the way i got the lipoadapter, im trying it out now on one of my crappy lipo's So far so good. I have a triton charger which will do lipo's up to 3 cells but the lipodapter will do up to six cells. but i put the triton to charge a NICAD and plugged it into the lipo adapter.

kobus_uk

Hi all

I'm new to the RC community and only bought my Esky Honeybee CP2 two weeks ago. Everything was perfect except that the battery only held through the maiden flight and wouldn't charge after that. Bought a new Li-PO and it's holding out. I have practiced on FMS simulator but I feel that nothing comes even close to the real thing. Although it gave me some Good insight into the maneuverability and controlling of my heli. After a couple of hours on the sim I took on the real thing. I was amazed at this little machine totally in my control but soon realized that patience is a virtue. Evidently I lost my main rotor blades in an unfortunate accident. Almost in tears as I knew the accident could've been prevented. Which leads me to a great tip for beginners. Create an imaginary circle in which you will learn to hover. If for one moment you leave that circle, set down and reposition. Believe me it pays of. It's has only been about 15 10min flights and I'm already feeling much more confident in hovering my little beast. I took it outside today and was surprised on the affect a small amount of wind have on a stable hover. It changes everything. The Honey Bee is definitely a wonderful way to enter the RC universe.

Well as this is a ESky Honey bee Problem forum. This is my problem. I will try to illustrate the problem on someone else's picture that I saved from this very forum. They were not available to ask permission and hope that they will not sue me for it or something like that. Just feel that it would be impossible for my to explain my problem without an image.

Surely hope someone out there will understand what I'm trying to say: Here goes nothing.....



The swash-plate has a pin (#1) that seems to keep it from moving all around. It slides in a groove (#2) when you move the aileron forward and backwards. When I opened my package I didn't realize this until further inspection but this pin was not inside the groove. It was outside moving up and down the right outside edge. I carefully moved the servos down and slipped the pin into place. I was pleased with myself that I noticed this and was eager to fly thinking it might be more stable now. To my surprise it did not have any lift at all. At full throttle it sat dead on the ground. Before putting this pin back where it belonged I could easily lift of at half throttle with the trim also set in the middle. It just seemed to drift left a lot (which I thought was normal because of the tail rotor). It seems that the helicopter was set up at the factory with the pin (#1) out of place because it takes of easily when not in the groove (#2). There is a small pin that holds the fuselage in place that goes through a hole (#3) and because of the swash-plate not being in place as it should be the rod connected to the servo (#5) is rubbing against it causing the servo not to return to it's !QUOT!neutral!QUOT! position. That was definitely a mouthful but I've learned from reading the forums that here's some really experienced RC pilots and builders in here. What can I do to fix this?

I wish this was the end of my problems. Well another thing I noticed and I know that this will affect the performance of my heli is that the cable tie (#4) rubs against the main gear and I'm sure that it must put strain on it to some degree even though it still flies. I've learned from the forums that it's all about fine tuning. Would just like to achieve that. A fine tuned flying machine.

Also not visible on the picture I noticed that my 4-in-1 box is slightly skew to the left but I don't know if this will have any effect on the helicopter.

You must be getting really irritated by all my problems but my last problem and definitely not least is that my tail motor revs sometimes instead of keeping a steady speed, jerking the tail from side to side. I noticed this happens mainly when I adjust the aileron to the right for take-off. I also feel the need to keep the right analog stick ( aileron) to the right during hover because if left in neutral the helicopter dives to the left. I believe that this might be because of the pin (#1) out of place as mentioned earlier.

Well that is all for now and I'll be really glad to get all this sorted out to be able to get back to training. I feel that if I keep training on a defective Heli that I might have problems when it's all finely tuned. Better to get it sorted out quickly.

I am looking forward to your replies and will be glad to help any beginners with my experience gained. Feel free to e-mail me with questions or anything regarding Electric RC helis. Would love to see your maiden flight videos or anything similar. My e-mail address I don't usually give out freely but I feel in the RC Universe we are all brothers.... (and sisters I should add)

My email address is [email protected]

Thanks

Kobus_uk

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

The pin should stay in the groove so you did that right. I think your swashplate might've separated but I'm not totally sure. You can simply reposition or tighten that cable that rubs against the main gear. It is placed the same way on mine and doesn't rub. The tail might have problems because of a bad battery or because you need to adjust the gain on the 4-in-1 board. It could be that the gain is too high and when you move the tail, the board tries to keep it in place too hard.



Paedbo, that's what I was thinking. I think it was kermit who said he got that berg single conversion:
http://www.helihobby.com/html/rx_and_crystals.html

The berg single conversion crystal is the 21st item down, check it out.



Also, is there any point in installing a 4100 kv brushless on the hb2? Or is that too much?

kobus_uk

Now that the pin is in place. What can I do to sort out the lift problem? With the pin in place it sticks to the ground.