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Esky Helicopters Discuss the line of Esky electric helis in here including the Honey Bee, Lama, Belt CP, etc

Esky honey bee CP

Old 04-08-2005, 09:01 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

jlb0305,
[link=http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rk_370sd]Here[/link] are the spec's on the stock 370. Also, check dimensions. The HB2 doesn't have room for much more diameter.
Old 04-08-2005, 09:40 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

hmmm... nice lipo alarm/led looks like a trip to radio shack tonight...

as for the motor... even the same size 350 version from GWS is more than twice as powerful, has less power use and reaches the max at a lower voltage while still being able to handle the max of the stock voltage... hmm may be able to mod it though size wise for the 400 because its even more powerful than that and only 3mm larger... on the honey bee this may be too much though. upgrading to these motors may also improve battery life.
Old 04-08-2005, 06:12 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

If it's a mm like you say, it shouldn't be a problem. If it gets worse, than I would just replace the main shaft and see what happens.
Old 04-10-2005, 03:27 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

My bro tried to fly my HB and crashed into the wall. Both blades craked and snapped and the main gear teeth were shaved. When I went to see if I can find some blades, the lowest price was around $14 bucks. For all you guys out there who buy the blades for that much or even more, just get some balsa wood from a hobby shop and cut them out! I got a huge piece of balsa from Michaels for 4 bucks and there's enough wood to make 6 blades! Just make a template and trace it on the balsa and it's sand paper from there.


jlb0305,
have you had any luck with the motor?
Old 04-10-2005, 04:11 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

heli-fever.com in their upgrade section at the bottom have some really good blades that are better than the stock honey bee 2 blades and they are $12 and can take a pretty good punishment, Im finally able to fly my hb2 nose in, but at one attempt earlier i had lost it and it crashed into my aluminum shed, I cut the throttle just before it hit and i couldnt even find a dent on the blades. Plus while spooling up they make a really cool sound.

I got the 0 pitch and those have a flat bottom and curved top, i had made a mistake and thought they were symmetrical blades, so i guess the ones that just say main blades are the symmetrical ones, ill have to email and ask heli-fever before my next order.

-edited for spelling-
Old 04-10-2005, 07:37 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

well after i charged the NiMH it lifted off a little before full throttle. I haven't bought the motor because its out of stock at the moment, but i think I can make it fit. Still waiting for some parts to come in and as soon as the store has the LiPo monitor I'm gonna order that with some other stuff.
Old 04-11-2005, 06:25 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Are there any carbon fiber blades that wok with the hb?

I heard that many people couldn't lift there HB with an 8.4 v NiMH but maybe they could with a 9.6?

Do you have a lipo? How powerful is it?
Old 04-11-2005, 07:03 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Hi everybody,

Since I have both "Twister FP" AND CP I tried to use the 11,1 V of the CP on the FP. Well the heli screams with this pack. You've got enormous power to use and of course I didn't use more than 2/3 of the throttle, cause the room has only 2,8 m height.. The question here is that if I continue using this type of packs I may end up either with a fried on board circuit, or with a ruined pack, since the heli WILL continue to fly like hell at 9 V. Besides the voltage checker will not "ring any bell" cause it's set up for 2 cells.
On the other hand I can't afford buying packs with 2 cells for the FP and 3 cells for the CP.

I am thinking of buying one extra pack 3 cells, 1500 mAh and a voltage checker for 3 cells.

What do you suggest?

Michael
Old 04-11-2005, 07:10 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

i haven't used my lipo yet, but I heard that PE blades help lift it a lot, although you can't do 3D with them. PE blades from heli-fever are only like 3.95
Old 04-11-2005, 05:00 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Makes sense to me. How come you don't fly the CP and just keep the fp as parts? I think it's a wise idea to get that battery and the monitor. It'll save you $$$
Old 04-12-2005, 12:08 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP


ORIGINAL: casipak

Makes sense to me. How come you don't fly the CP and just keep the fp as parts? I think it's a wise idea to get that battery and the monitor. It'll save you $$$
CP ia a fine machine, but as I said earlier in this forum, I'm afraid of it, maybe because I crashed it during the first minute of flight. Even yesterday evening I was practicing in the living room and still have that "insecure" feeling. With the FP it's the other way around. I can fly it in house, go from one room to the next, come back land on several tables, even on a little piano stool. I can't fly nose in for the moment, but it's something that I will do some day.
With the CP I can't even hover with confidence. The machine "listens" to every little (VERY LITTLE) movement of the stick and responds fast. It's not forgiving. If I make an over correction, it's almost impossible for my skills to brink it back to balance []. I moved all the push rods 1 hole back (to the horn's center). Things got better, cause the same movements of the stick correspond to less movement of the swash plate. BUT ...[]. So I can't fly the CP and keep the FP for parts. For the moment I need them both.
Old 04-12-2005, 05:44 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

bat falcon i had that same problem, like jlb said i was one to try the pe blades on the cp machine so i could learn to hover, it acted alot like my friends FP machine, and they are really cheap blades they are pretty durable for being foam, just have to worry about the blades striking the paddles as thats how i have lost a few of the PE blades being cut by the fly bar paddle in half, otherwise on most crashes the pe blades were fine, never needed to balance any of them they were always good to go right out of the box.

Just to give you an idea, i went from barely being able to hover for 30 seconds with the cp blades, and in 1 battery pack after the change to pe blades i was already landing it on my couch and table and stuff. That was how much more stable it flew.

Give those pe blades a try on the cp machine once you get confident switch back to the original blades.



Old 04-12-2005, 06:33 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I ordered my PE blades last monday... they say 7-14 days to ship so hopefully its closer to 7 and I get them some time this week. The site also has an "upgraded tail blade" no idea what this is but i didn't order it because it was more expensive than the standard. They have a whole upgrade section on the site.

Can anyone recomend a good DB15 to USB adapter? I got a used copy of G2 on eBay but the controller has the old Serial DB15 joystick connection, not present on my almost 3 year old laptop so I need to find a good adapter that will allow me to use the Realflight Futaba controller on my laptop.

I found [link=http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=168199]this one, [/link] is it any good? and does anyone know where online i can actually find one in stock for less than $25? I see them for 11 and 12 but they are all sold out.
Old 04-12-2005, 07:27 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP


ORIGINAL: paedbo

bat falcon i had that same problem, like jlb said i was one to try the pe blades on the cp machine so i could learn to hover, it acted alot like my friends FP machine, and they are really cheap blades they are pretty durable for being foam, just have to worry about the blades striking the paddles as thats how i have lost a few of the PE blades being cut by the fly bar paddle in half, otherwise on most crashes the pe blades were fine, never needed to balance any of them they were always good to go right out of the box.

Just to give you an idea, i went from barely being able to hover for 30 seconds with the cp blades, and in 1 battery pack after the change to pe blades i was already landing it on my couch and table and stuff. That was how much more stable it flew.

Give those pe blades a try on the cp machine once you get confident switch back to the original blades.
Mine just arrived today. I will have a test flight this afternoon. From what I see they will not stand a second crash. They are pretty light but extra delicate (to the touch so far). I intend to cover them with clear heat shrink just to make it a little more durable, although I am afraid to heat it with the heat gun.

Any suggestions please?
Old 04-12-2005, 07:42 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Hmm.. interesting new Esky Honeybee CP2.. so now my new (7 days old) Honeybee CP is a superseeded model DOH!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...7114&rd=1&rd=1
Old 04-12-2005, 08:51 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

pretty much looks like you can mod the HB2 to a CP2... only weighs 20g less.

looks like just need to get a new TX, new head, maybe new frame and new canopy, looks like same 4-in-1. and looking close at the pic it says "for 5005 (CP)"

My thoughts... when stuff breaks replace with this and you've upgraded to a cp2 w/o buying a new heli.

total upgrade cost... looking @ the parts online, about $30-40 shipped from US or less from HK. plus about $40 for the TX.

looks like most of the cost of the original and current HB's are the 4 in 1, motors, and battery.

Frame is $14
Canopy is $13
Rotor head, shaft, swashplate, etc. is about $15-20 if you buy all the parts of it individually... probably less as a group.

I as well have a week or so old HB2... but atleast I still paid about 50-60 less than what that will cost with s&h. paying $40 to upgrade is a much better deal, especially since if I get a new TX it isn't going to be an eSky... even if i did... new TX is $40 and I can sell the old one for like $20 to someone... taking me to the $60 difference.
Old 04-12-2005, 08:53 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Don't know what this means but on eskyparts.com the HB2 and CP2 are both model number EK1H-E005
Old 04-12-2005, 01:28 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

anyone know if a GWS vert fin fits the honeybee2? the one store is out of HB fins and I want to place my order. they look the same and cost roughly the same...
Old 04-12-2005, 02:00 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

[link=http://www.balsapr.com/pimages/fd015.jpg]here's a pic[/link]
Old 04-12-2005, 06:32 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

What's the difference between the old HB2 and the new one? Just curious.
I was flying around my couch today and when I landed, the lipo battery felt SUPER SLIGHLY BARELY warm to the touch. I mean it was almost impossible to feel that it was warm, but it was. SLIGHTLY!!! There is no swelling or anything like that whatsoever. It works fine and the heli has the same flight time. Any thoughts?
Also, when I was testing the voltage of the battery with my multimeter, one of the wires came out of the plug and I just put it back in.
Old 04-12-2005, 07:17 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

not that much is different... when you crash just upgrade... new frame, cabin, etc. is about it... diff tx too... same 4-in-1 and motors and servos and batt...
Old 04-12-2005, 07:39 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

What exactly does tunning the gain switch on the board do? Will it help get a better hover?
Old 04-12-2005, 09:29 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

yeah i want to know... my PE blades came in... can't wait to get them tomorrow @ the post office.
Old 04-13-2005, 02:52 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

ORIGINAL: HazzaHSV

Hmm.. interesting new Esky Honeybee CP2.. so now my new (7 days old) Honeybee CP is a superseeded model DOH!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...7114&rd=1&rd=1
Just took a look at the link. There are some minor differences with the previous model. I think the "outer 3d paddle control frame" and the "3d rotar head set" are different. Don't mention the canopy, cause you may change it any time. The "3d paddle control links" look the same.

Well, here are the test flight results:
The hole of each blade is larger than the original. I let it as it was. The thickness of the blade (near it's base) is less than the original, I just gave the srews a few more turns and the machine was ready to go. Or I thought it was. It needed A LOT of triming, because EVERYTHING had changed. The tail was drifting to the left (I had to move the trim all the way to the right). The heli was leaning left so I had to move the left - right cyclic trim half way to the right. When all above was set and done I flew it for about half battery. Generally the movements are much smoother than the wooden blades. I suppose it's because of the softness of the PE.
Forgot to tell you. I wraped the blades with heat shrink. Didn't used the heat gun, but the hair dryer instead. That gave them a little more durability and they survived the "touch" with the wall. Surprisingly the "rotor head set" didn't (part SK046). Took it apart and fixed it. Drilled a 1 mm hole through the ball link and the main body of the head, passed 1 mm steel wire through and glued them with ca glue. Everything back in place and tested once again.
After the flight I noticed that the blades had taken a upwards bent shape.

More to come in near future.

Suggestions on everything are always welcome.

Michael
Old 04-13-2005, 05:39 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

didnt you get plastic spacers to use with the pe blades? theyre round and wedge shaped. I put the spacers in underneath the blade, tightened the screw but left the blades alittle loser than you normally would put them. The pe blades do have a piece of wood around the hole for strength.


are you carrying a heavy battery? the pe blades do cone quite a bit but with a light battery it isnt too bad. Mine would cone pretty badly with a 1500mah battery but when all was said and done and i brought her back inside the blades were not bent upwards permanently, they went back to natural level position. Did you check your blade tracking because that was the one thing that was WAY out on me when i first tried pe blades, once i fixed that i didnt have to do anything else.



and i was always fly it with the trim as low as i can set it, This way the pitch is as low as possible.


i never put any heat wrap or anything on the blades, they took numerous crashes , of course i cut the throttle just before it would hit the ground also, The first set of pe's i had, took 4 or 5 crashes 2 of them being pretty bad, before they started getting knicked up but still flew fine, i think on the fifth crash one of the blades bent upward and back and hit the flybar paddle which caused it to severe in half, but otherwise it seems as long as they dont hit the flybar paddles they seem to survive crashes pretty well, i did have one that bent upward alittle and had a wrinkle in the plastic covering, but it lasted quite a while afterwards.


at less than 2 dollars a blade i thought it was well worth it especially since they give the helicopter excellent stability. I am at the learning curve where i went back to balsa blades, non symmetricals from heli-fever, ever since i went with the lighter 1000mah battery , i have been able to trim out the heli so well that indoors it will hover itself for a good 3 to 4 seconds with no stick input, ( of course i gotta kind of get it set up hovering absoutely perfect before i let go of the stick)

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