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Esky Helicopters Discuss the line of Esky electric helis in here including the Honey Bee, Lama, Belt CP, etc

Esky honey bee CP

Old 04-13-2005, 06:01 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I didn't put the spacers on cause I saw that they have this wedge shape, so I thought that they could hurt the blade tightening the screw.

My battery is the standard 11,1 V 1000 mAh. Tracking is perfect unless I switch the 3D on. Then the tracking goes off, until throttling up when the pitch starts moving in and fixes it.

I am flying with all the trim down too. Didn't thought to give it a little more pitch. As I see it already has enough pitch even at idle.

The wrap only weights 2 - 3 grams, on the other hand you can see for yourself that it makes the blade stiffer.

I have been able to hover for some seconds with no stick input, but the heli tends to go forward. One trim's click back and it tends to go backwards. The optimum is somewhere between the two clicks []. The same happens with left-right trim. [] It's not a big deal though. It's only that I'd like to have a heli which would be hovering more than 5 secs with no input.

Michael
Old 04-13-2005, 06:06 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

yeah i heard that the PE blades would bend... they probably have more lift on the edge than towards the center so it takes more to lift it... won't get to test mine until tomorrow night or so though.

as for the HB CP2... still nothing that can't be bought and put on the original to make it a cp2...

canopy wise... anyone know where i could get some thin, light strong mesh like material? I moded my canopy to allow the main motor heat sink air flow, but I don't think it has enough still and I dont want to just have a bunch of holes that are randomly in it, especially the front nose section... I tried reinforcing it with duct tape a bit... hopefully don't get to the point of a full out nose crash.
Old 04-13-2005, 06:32 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

with the PE blades... what happens if you engage the 3D switch? like with normal blades 0 throttle becomes full for upside down... with PE blades this isn't possible so just wondering what it does...
Old 04-13-2005, 06:34 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Quick question guys. Not sure if this is a problem or not. But I made a landing/training gear and maidened my HoneyBee CP today. Went fairly well but it is way out of trim so going to work on the gyro settings. Anyway I noticed at full throttle my 4in1 led turns red! It also happens when in 3d mode and full collective positive or full collective negative is used. I tested this with the motors disconnected also. Is this a fault? Because at full throttle the blades start making a funny noise and the heli loses lift until I lower the throttle a couple of notches (to around 95% - at which point the 4in1 goes green again) then the funny noise from the blades goes away and the heli gets lift again.
Old 04-13-2005, 07:41 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

the LED is supposed to go red at full... to let you know its at full i guess...

i have a question though... looking straight down at the heli, with the blades spining, not fast enough to lift off I noticed that the screw on top was not spining about its center, this screw appears to be in the center on top above the main shaft. Is this usual at low throttle, like being caused by the rotation of the blades or something... or do I have a bent main? it's hard to tell if its still not being centered at higher speeds especially once the heli lifts off and i get out of the way.
Old 04-13-2005, 07:48 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Throttle stick near middle, 3D switch on = idle up with zero pitch. Moving throttle slowly upwards, pitch changes to possitive, revs slightly go down due to load, a little more throttle and you are up flying.[&:] [&:]
Remember To land you MUST cut the trottle halfways. If you push it all way down (like we usually do), negative pitch comes in revs up again, blades bent downwards, hit the canopy [:@] [:@] [:@]etc etc.....

The led always turns red at full throttle regardless direction (up or down). Most of ESCs do that.

Don't have the slightest clue about loosing lift with WOT (Wide Open Throttle). <== (I took this from my outboard).

Michael
Old 04-13-2005, 08:45 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Thanks batfalcon.

Is it possible at WOT that the positive pitch is too much and as a result it loses headspeed and thus lift? (The blades seem to make a ripping sound through the air?)

jlb0305.

My screw at the top of the main mast/gear does exactly what yours does moves a couple of mm left to right when spinning slowly. Doesnt seem to shake the heli at fullish throttle. But I am having a problem of loss of lift at full throttle so dont know if its related.
Old 04-13-2005, 09:14 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

what voltage is going to the tail motor when running? especially at full throttle... seeing about motor alternatives... like changing to one less likely to burn up...
Old 04-13-2005, 12:23 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

My main shaft does the same thing, but it moves so little that I figured it's no big deal.
I have the same thing with my board. It's suppost to turn red at full throttle. I get the funny noise from the blades and the motor but haven't flown with full throttle yet so I don't know if the heli loses lift.

By the way, have any of you guys messed around with the gain switch on your heli? What will it do?


What do you think of this?
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...products_id=76
Old 04-13-2005, 12:55 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

yeah what do those two switches do? I don't want to mess with them but they look so interesting [:-]
Old 04-13-2005, 01:20 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

looking at that heli launching fireworks... i have a small remote circuit that runs on a 9V battery... do you think the HB could carry a 9V... then i could launch bottle rockets from up in the air.... obviously have it a bit away from the heli... like on the training gear pieces... only held a bit farther out... would be a wicked speed boost if they got stuck... up until they explode that is...
Old 04-13-2005, 04:38 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

The proportional and gain pots are throttle-rudder mixing and gyro gain. Ie if your heli always turns left, then you can try adjusting the mixer. I can tell you from experience they don't work very well. But try it yourself, just make note of where it is originally before you adjust anything.

When the led turns red, it means the ESC is at it's max output. This is not full stick for the stock radio but that's ok since one does not use linear throttle curve for a CP helicopter anyway. It's ok if the led turns red at 85% stick, just make sure you have pitch movement from 85-100%.
Old 04-13-2005, 04:43 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

haza, i had to re-adjust the pitch on the heli to get it to stop doing that where it sounds like its binding the collective/ swashplate at full throttle, i just bumped the pitch down some and then the problem went away, im sure the right way would be that i should of checked the swash plate travel with the motors unplugged and maybe adjusted the servo arms etc to find the proper lengths, then mark upper and lower travel on the swash plate, put it directly between them and then adjust each blade to 0 pitch. but for this little heli i didnt want to bother going through that at least until i need it set up right for inverted flight which i cant do yet anyways.


Batfalcon, i put the washers in with no problem i just faced the fat part of the wedge towards the rotor head, and i put the washer under the blade not above.

as far as hovering with no stick input on a micro this is very hard to do from what i hear, you always need some stick input to keep them hovering most of the time. This is one reason why people say its easier to learn to fly a 30 sized nitro heli than a beginner to try learning on a micro. And i believe them, but i figured well ill probably like the challenge then of learning on a micro, though it put a dent in my wallet with crashes, it hasnt been too bad.
Old 04-13-2005, 06:12 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

got my blades and some other parts today... looks like my lipo monitor and safety device for the charger are coming in like friday or so... then i just have to add the JST connectors so that i can put it inline with the battery... i figure it should work since thats the same connection that goes into the battery
Old 04-14-2005, 01:19 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

jlb0305
Don't exactly know. Clip a voltmeter on and make a test. Make sure that there is no short between the leads and the motor can.

paedbo,
Didn't put the wedge washers on. I did put some flat washers instead, just to make the appropriate thickness. One of the blades had a "meeting" with the piano stool but the wrap made the difference. In fact there was a hudge wrinkle at the upper side, but a little treatment with the heat gun made the blade as new.

I tried the heat gun. PE doesn't seam to bother, as long as the temp is reasonable margins. (Didn't let it climb above 60 C). After that I put an extra RED wrap on top of the previous (white), near the blade's tip (about 6 cm). Blades are even stiffer [>:] than before and frankly I don't care if they "meet" the sofa or the stool on their way anymore .
Old 04-14-2005, 03:49 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Hi
Can anybody open his ESky 6 Channel FM_CCPM transmitter and tell me what is written over the transsistor (small(2.5mm*4.5mm)black box) which is on the right side of the main board of the transmitter.. There are different size small black boxes over the main board but only two of them are in that same size and on the right. There is written 78L05 over one of them. But the one that I need is starts with RF.... but I could not read remaining. Becouse it was burned... If anybody looks and tell me what is written over it I will be veryhappy....
Old 04-14-2005, 05:55 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Can anyone tell me, if when in non-3d mode and giving the heli full right cyclic does your head go right but also forward quite a bit. And conversely when giving full left cyclic the head goes left and backwards a quite a bit? I tested this by anchoring the heli down. Doesn't seem to happen in 3d mode (maybe a fraction but not as bad). It is making practicing hovering more difficult.
Old 04-14-2005, 06:29 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

HazzaHSV,
The answer is hmmmm. I think so. Never tried the anchoring method. But if you unplug both motors and do the movements, you should watch how the swash plates moves. Theoritically it should ONLY move to the right if there is right input. But I am not VERY sure about this, because the swash plate is resting on 3 ball links, each at every 120 deg. So if you put right input and the right-back servo moves down, without the left-back servo moving up, then sure the heli must lean right AND little back.

Make the "standing" test and post the results.

hmbakir,
Sorry I can't open mine

Thanks, Michael
Old 04-14-2005, 09:45 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I just tried this. I gave full right and left cyclic. The swash plate just tilts left and right. No forward or backward movement. You might do a search on the forums. I vaugely remember someone else having the same issue, but I can't remember what caused it.
Old 04-14-2005, 10:01 PM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

hmbakir,
I just took a look. Had to get out the 10x jewlers loupe to read it. I'm pretty sure that it says RF49. The silk screening on the 4 is a little hard to read.
Old 04-15-2005, 12:54 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

rbiasi.

Were you testing it with the main blades stationary or spinning. When I try it with the blades stationary the swash only moves directly left or right but when I spin the heli up to fullish speed and do the same thing the head and blades move a bit forward with full right cyclic and a bit backwards with full left cyclic. Is this due to the torque of the spinning blades?
Old 04-15-2005, 01:08 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

Well guys,
I suppose that the "new blades purchase days" are history. I tried to make my own blades out of 4 mm balsa and the experiment ended succesfully. I used ONE new blade as patern and drew the outline on a 4 mm balsa sheet. First I had selected the heavier sheet among the others at the hobby shop. Then cut the new pieces and drilled the holes at the exact position. All these BEFORE any sanding. After rounding the edges only and balancing, I gave it a try on the heli, but the lift force with that shape was minimun. So little that I had to spin up to full throttle just to lift the heli 5 - 10 cm.

At that point I was kind of disappointed, cause all this effort had gone for nothing [sm=drowning.gif][].

A few days later, yesterday evening that is, thinking that I had a pair of balanced but good for nothing blades, I started to sand the blades down in order to achive the original's shape. Didn't gave it any sanding near the holes at all. It took me about 1 hour to sand them both and then balanced them using a little piece of thin bronze sheet on the lighter one.

Finally I wpaped them with clear heat shrinking like the one we use for batteries. Balanced them once more, getting self assured that everything is ok and put them on the heli.

I have to admit that I had a squeeze in my stomach during the first seconds of this attempt, but fortunately things were superb. The heli hoverd smooooothly, like on silk. It needed even fewer corrections than with the original blades !!! I landed it soon afterwards and gave a liitle more pitch (half turn), just to reduce the hovering rpm a bit. That was the cherry on the top of the cake. I hadn't seen the heli hovering like this before. It was amazing. To me at last.

Didn't have the time to drain all the juice from the pack, because it already had gone half past midnight, so I landed the heli and went happy for sleep with a BIG smile [sm=lol.gif].

Now the financial perspective:

Cost of 1 sheet of balsa wood (1 m * 10 cm) = 0.8 €. There will be more than 10 pairs of blades out of this sheet.
Cost of sand papers approx. 3 €.

Time it took me from drawing the outline on the wood till finishing the pair approx 3 hours.

Since we are not only pilots [:-] but modelers as well [sm=thumbup.gif], I think that the method is worth mentioning.

Michael
Old 04-15-2005, 01:09 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

thanks rbiasi.. thats what I need...
Old 04-15-2005, 06:29 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I'm glad to hear your blades worked out. Mine seem to work but the tracking is messed up. The tips keep going up and down and the heli goes up and down because of the blades.

Where do you get the heat shrink?
Old 04-15-2005, 07:16 AM
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Default RE: Esky honey bee CP

I think the reason is the softness of the balsa. That's why I selected the heavier (harder) one.

Maybe that's why the original blades have a built in metal wire near the tip....

From a local shop of electric hardware. In fact I've been searching in many such stores and found only ONE carrying this type. It's thin. Like the one you may see on the NimH packs for the helis.
I have only 3 meters from the clear left, can't find it any more. Today a friend of mine bought for me about 6 m of white and blue. In a few words it's difficult to find it in Greece.

If you have any source that I can buy from (using PayPal) please tell me so. Additionally I am looking for some JST connectors to use them as spare for my packs. I can't find them either.

Michael

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