maximus75

Hi all, I just picked up a belt CP. It's my first non coaxial heli. I learned to fly on a CX2. I've been practicing on the e sky simI'ts kinda cheesy though. I just need some start up advice. The instruction manual leaves much to be desired. It really doesn't go into details about the setup. For instance, the main and rear rotor blades ar very loose, do I tighten them or should they have some "play"? Also, I have never attempted 3d flying and I'm not about to anytime soon (at least until I'm very comfortable with the heli). I'm not even clear on how 3d flying occurs. The transmitter has a couple switches on the top which I suspect are for 3d. A knob for pitch, and a switch for gyro. Not sure what to do with these. I don't think I need to operate these for normal practice flying but any advice would be appreciated. I've read the other post on preliminary checks for this Heli, just didn't see anything about the blades or other controlsthanks

46u

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I am all so new to helicopters but not RC all I have right now is a Lama V3 but have a belt CP on the way. From what little I know the blades should be loose so if you hit something with them there is less damage. I have been told to make sure you have a pitch gauge and check the pitch before ever trying to fly10 degrees +/- . I agree E-Sky instructions leave a lot to be desired.

jmann71

ok, tighten the main blades to the point where when you hold the heli on its side-they should stay put, but with a slight shake they should fall. same(sort of) with the tail blades. you don't want them flopping around, but not tight either. this lets the blades find there happy place when spinning.

on the controller. the upper left switch is the IDLE UP - this is used for the 3D flight. make sure it is switched to the back(away from you) for normal mode. the upper right switch is the trainer switch - this is used with a second controller and instructor. the two knobs should be set to " 0 " to start. you shouldn't have to mess with them.

the gyro switch will only work when you install a Head Hold gyro. so it doesn't matter where it's at.

Jason

Druss

Read this for tips on the transmitter...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...Cmanual/tm.htm

warpnine

See SubZero's excellent Honeybee King 2 set up videos on YouTube, since nearly everything he describes will also work for your Belt. (Note, SubZero spells his YouTube user name weird - so try just searching for "honeybee king set up"). He throughly covers many of the topics you seem to have questions about.

Also look into the ClearView Flight Simulator (a $39 shareware product that you can try before you buy) as a replacement for the poor FMS simulator that Esky ships with their USB controller. FMS was horrible to set up for the Esky USB controller and had lousy graphics on my high-end Vista system with a good GeForce graphics card - but ClearView worked perfectly with the Esky controller "right out of the box" and has great photo realistic models and landing fields. Well worth the money for me! There are tons of freely downloadable aircraft models (helis as well as airplanes) as well as landing fields - which you can even make up yourself with a digital camera. The link for ClearView is: http://rcflightsim.com/download.html Buy it once, and you get all future upgrades for free.

Hope this helps!

maximus75

Thanks, The main blades seem to have the proper tension right out of the box, but the rear blades are very loose. I'm gonna check out that youtube vid and the sim download. Also, where is the best place to et parts for the belt?
thanks

warpnine

You can't go wrong buying anything from U.S. Hobby Supply - http://www.ushobbysupply.com/index.p...7ed4fe52230154 Fantastic service and support from Michael their president!

GCK68

The main rotor and tail rotor blades should be snug but still able to move them. If you have not already done so get some training gear. You should use a pitch gauge and check your blade pitch. This should be done in the idle up or stunt mode (disconnect the motor first). Per the book if you are using the stock radio you should have zero degrees pitch at mid stick, -7 degrees at low stick, and + 7 degrees at high stick. If you don’t have zero degrees at mid stick then adjust the 3 linkages to the swash plat up or down until you do. Once these settings are correct you can switch back to normal mode. You should have –2 to 0 degrees at low stick, 0 to +2 degrees at mid stick, and +7 degrees at high stick. All these checks and adjustments should be made with the Hover Pitch and Pitch Trim knobs set to zero.

Next you will want to check your blade tracking. You can do this by setting your helicopter on the floor and moving back a safe distance. Get down on your belly so you can look strait on to the main blades. Slowly increase the throttle up to around 50%. Be careful as we are not looking for the helicopter to take off. Looking at the blades they should look as one on the same plane. If you see one higher then the other you will need to adjust the pitch control links.

If you are just learning to hover you may find it a bit easier to increase the Hover Pitch. This will increase the pitch relative to the head speed minimizing the ground effect making it a bit easier to handle when hovering a few inches off the floor. When you get better you will want to trim this back for a higher head speed.

A few things you will probably need to upgrade at some point. The ESC. It seems to be hit or miss on these things. Mine kept overheating once I was good enough to keep the helicopter in the air for 4 or 5 minutes. Some of them have been know to burst into flames. I replaced mine with a Hobby Wings 30A with an external switching BEC. The servo’s. I’ve had nothing but trouble with the Esky servos both the 8g’s and the new digital servo. I suggest the Tower Pro SG90’s. Much better servo and about the same cost as the Esky servo’s. Transmitter. I had nothing but trouble with the stock transmitter. The servo jitter I fixed by spraying WD40 into the potentiometers. But I still had glitching from time to time while flying. After several weeks of chasing that I finally upgraded to the Specktrum DX6I transmitter and receiver. Much better radio setup and I now whish I would have made that change much sooner.

Here is link to the manual for the stock Esky transmitters. This should give you a better idea what all the controls do.

[link]http://www.twf-sz.com/english/download/manual/4&6Transmitter.pdf[/link]

Good Luck

Jester241

I have the belt cp and this post is exactly right,do read it closely....especially the part about the idle up swich. It can be deadly if in the wrong spot,so MAKE SURE you during your pre-flight checks this is your first check followed closely by making sure your throttle is all the way down. Always check these BEFORE plugging in your battery! I will add to help you that your "hover pitch" knob on the left is used to control where your blades are pitched at. In other words if your turn it down(counterclockwise) in decreases your blades' pitch making you have to add a higher amount of throttle to get your heli to lift off. It will also at lift off time be spinning higher rpms. If you turn it up(clockwise),it will increase your blades' pitch thus making your heli take off with less throttle while spinning less rpms. I tend to like mine turned up a bit for simply hoovering and playing around while at lower rpms. Higher rpms are better suited for more agressive flying. I usually adjust this a bit higher as my battery gets lower sometimes or lower if I want to hit the idle up switch(read more about this at the end of my reply).

The "pitch knob" on the right adjusts the total pitch range of the blades. Turning it down(counterclockwise) make the heli less sensitive and aggressive while working the throttle stick because it has less range of motion. Turning it up(clockwise) makes the heli more sensitive and aggressive,thus getting more potential out of your heli after mastering it because it has a wider range of motion. I usually keep this know around the middle and rarely mess with it.

And as far as the gyro swich,as said before....it dont matter where it is for you....and I'll as say that I bought a head-lock gyro and it doesnt make a difference which way I have it either really,but that might have something to do with how I hooked it up and didnt play with it much yet.

And I feel for you about the manual......IT SUCKS!!!!! So feel free to ask alot of obvious questions here.....

And dont ever hit that idle up switch unless you have your throttle about half way up or it will strip your main drive gear out immediatly. The hover adjustment knob helps here because you can turn the hover pitch down,thus letting you throttle up while on the ground in preparation to hit the idle up switch without the heli wanting to lift off.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Check out these videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh30iHwx4GY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khsQFreIeMk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgabZixRvm8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPKKelo2IQw