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New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

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Esky Helicopters Discuss the line of Esky electric helis in here including the Honey Bee, Lama, Belt CP, etc

New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Old 07-17-2009, 10:16 PM
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Jack the R
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Default New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

This is my second one. I burned up the first one's 4-in-1 by snagging a branch. Instead of buying a $40 4-in-1 I got the whole heli for $60 off X-heli.com (after discount). Good deal!

First, a couple questions regarding flybar balancing. I've worked through this whole set up routine - [link=http://cory.butzon.com/blog/?id=177]link.[/link]

I've always heard that the paddles and weights on the flybar should be equally distant from the center of the shaft, but the write-up gives this advice for balancing the flybar -

You\'ll need to loosen the two grub screws on the underside of the paddle control frame, then slide the flybar one way or the other
My flybar paddles were equidistant stock, but the balance was slightly off. I shifted the flybar over to make it balance, which means the flybar paddles are no longer equidistant.

Unless I'm blind, the write-up doesn't advise to reposition the flybar paddles in a later step (cause this would throw the balance off again).

That sounds wrong but I went with it to confirm what would actually happen. When tracking the blades I noticed the rotor would tilt slightly at random, which seemed to suggest there'd be problems when I flew it. Then I flew it, and it flew better than I've ever had a Honey Bee fly. It was surprisingly stable. It won't hover in place for 30 seconds, but there was a big improvement and the only problem I fixed was the out of balance flybar.

So, is it o.k. to have the paddles at unequal distances from the main axis, as long as the flybar as a whole is balanced? We're talking about 1.5 millimeters of distance here. Or are there more improvements to stability to be had by having the paddles placed at equal distances, and the overall flybar balanced? If so, how would you balance the flybar, since you can't shift it around and keep the paddles at the same distance both?

The write-up also suggests not using the flybar weights. I was thinking of putting an extra set on for more stability, but I can see removing them to get a quicker reaction. Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on this.

I've noticed both motors produce vibration. Not huge amounts of vibration, but if you touch the heli while they're running (all rotors off the heli), you can feel the vibration. I don't think there's anything particularly wrong with my motors, but I'm wondering if brushless motors will be smoother.

Speaking of motors, at the 3/4 throttle point I get a red light, and I can tell from the pitch of the motor whine that the motor isn't going any faster with more throttle. If the heli lifts at half throttle, that doesn't leave much power for flying, which is what I've observed. I guess the only thing for it is to go brushless and get better batteries.

One thing I was disappointed to see was that the new HB has the same random acceleration in the tail that the old one did. If this is the common problem it appears to be, I'd like to know how other HB owners solved it.
Old 07-18-2009, 09:03 PM
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Jack the R
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Not much love for the Honey Bee here, eh?

After busting a flybar today, I took the chance to remove the wheel collars and rebalance the flybar with paddles equidistant. The difference was dramatic. I'm sure an experienced single rotor pilot could fly it quite easily now. I can do side and tail in hovers with no problem at all. I've progressed to flying very imperfect slow figure eights. On the simulator, slow FF was much harder than either hovering or fff. It is not easy with real life HB, but it's easier than simulated HB.

I've got a few minor problems to deal with. Not enough climb power, randomly firing tail, the geartrain acts like it's seizing up sometimes, the main rotor randomly fires at zero throttle even after a frequency change. I am planning to go to brushless motors, a direct drive tail, and an angled super boom. And better batteries. Maybe a heading hold gyro, but the HB is performing well enough that I'm not sure it needs the head lock gyro. Then a quality radio - the Esky stuff was falling apart in my hands while I changed crystals.
Old 08-17-2009, 02:22 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Jack,

Lets see if we can get this thread moving a little. Just fixed my HBFP after a while of sitting. I was flying a cx2 (indoor), Big O Lama (outdoors) and learning on a Belt cpv2. But after replacing the swash plate from a crash when I first starting flying, I can tell this should be real fun. This heli, being fixed pitch is right in the middle of the other two heli's and I should be able to get some better flying in and really get some learning time.

*** I have to say that this heli is pretty easy to work on. Replacing the swash plate took a few time because of forgetting a specific step but we got it. Not a big deal to some of the advanced flyers here, but I was impressed with myself for getting it all back and in flying condition with-out any new problems arising.

Wind is a little to much right now to get it up but it usually dies down aroound 5 p.m. and well get out there and see what happens

Best flying everyone
Jeff
Old 08-28-2009, 09:09 AM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Hello Folks,
First time poster and newbee HB pilot. I've had mine for about two weeks now and have learned to tail inhover fairly well. I'm getting to the point where I'm noticing thelittle querks about the HB that I hadn't noticed before. One is the proportion trim on the 4 in 1. It seems to change from flight to flight. I'll have it dialed in, then on the next flight it wants to make right turns. Any ideas? I also noticed that depending on how high you want to hover the rudder trim changes. Is there a way to change the torque curve to the rudder so once it's dialed in it stays there no matter how high you want to fly?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Old 08-31-2009, 09:31 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

ORIGINAL: Jack the R
The write-up also suggests not using the flybar weights. I was thinking of putting an extra set on for more stability, but I can see removing them to get a quicker reaction. Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on this.
I've noticed both motors produce vibration. Not huge amounts of vibration, but if you touch the heli while they're running (all rotors off the heli), you can feel the vibration. I don't think there's anything particularly wrong with my motors, but I'm wondering if brushless motors will be smoother.
Speaking of motors, at the 3/4 throttle point I get a red light, and I can tell from the pitch of the motor whine that the motor isn't going any faster with more throttle. If the heli lifts at half throttle, that doesn't leave much power for flying, which is what I've observed. I guess the only thing for it is to go brushless and get better batteries.
One thing I was disappointed to see was that the new HB has the same random acceleration in the tail that the old one did. If this is the common problem it appears to be, I'd like to know how other HB owners solved it.
Hey again Jack,

Sorry that I have just got to answer now - some of this may already be covered. I found that the best way to decrease lag time from your FP bird is to buy stiffer CF rod for the flybar - [link=http://super-skids.com/]superCF flybar[/link] and while you are at super-skids.com take a look at the super-paddles - I also rave about the benefits of these (see the blurb within ad - it is all true!).

What do you expect from a brushed US$60 dollar bird? Yea, BL motors do run smoother (and usually quieter) - and provide you with the extra throttle power that you are talking about - but you get what you pay for usually!

The [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_230&products_id=3037]Direct drive tail ready pack[/link] conversion from Miracle-mart.com is how I got rid of the "random acceleration" in the tail - but others have gone dual tail motors.......

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
Old 08-31-2009, 09:42 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Dual tail rotors? I haven't seen that. Do you have a picture or link you can post?
Old 08-31-2009, 11:12 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Dual tail rotors? I haven't seen that. Do you have a picture or link you can post?
Hey Tinkman,

You read it wrong it says dual tail MOTORS - one on each side of the drive to rotor to spread the load (making the motors last longer). Do you still need a link? I'll see if I can locate one now.

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
UPDATE: Sorry, got bored reading about direct drive and belt drive systems - maybe another day!
Old 09-01-2009, 11:44 AM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Yes, when you get some time I'd be interested in seeing a dual motor setup.
Thanks,
 
Old 09-03-2009, 09:42 AM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

I have several of the older Honey bees. One thing I do like about the newer ones is the chassis looks a whole lot better and more sturdier. Probably added a little more weight but in the case of the Honey bee, that is a good thing. It will also make installing into a full body much easier -I had to throw that in there. Im not sure if the update frame only applies to the Fp because I sure would like to put this frame on my Honeybee CPs. Come to think of it, Im wondering if they discontinued the Cp. If so, thats sad. Anyway, im a modder so I may just buy a few frames and convert all my fps and CPs over to this frame.
Old 09-03-2009, 11:22 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

ORIGINAL: darthdrk
I have several of the older Honey bees. One thing I do like about the newer ones is the chassis looks a whole lot better and more sturdier. Probably added a little more weight but in the case of the Honey bee, that is a good thing. It will also make installing into a full body much easier -I had to throw that in there. Im not sure if the update frame only applies to the Fp because I sure would like to put this frame on my Honeybee CPs. Come to think of it, Im wondering if they discontinued the Cp. If so, thats sad. Anyway, im a modder so I may just buy a few frames and convert all my fps and CPs over to this frame.
Hey darthdrk,

You say you have several of the older Honeybee FP. Could you drop in a few pics for me? Also, what sort of tail conversions did you do? Dual tail motors or direct drive or belt drive or.......did you leave them standard but drop in a diff. motor? Sorry for all the questions, but I am getting into modding my FP a bit more now also, and I want to know the options available to me

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. One more question. Does the headspeed matter on FP?
Old 09-04-2009, 09:53 AM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

With the upgraded chassis, does the HB still have the ballance problem or did they provide a better place to mount the battery?

Tinkman
Old 09-06-2009, 10:02 PM
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Default RE: New Honey Bee, questions, thoughts, criticisms

Hey all,

I have just ordered one of the [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3403]2.4G Honeybee FPv2[/link] from Miracle-mart.com and the Xtreme [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_230&products_id=3037]Direct Drive Tail Ready Pack[/link] to put in at a later date. It will arrive in a week from HongKong (to Australia) so I can answer any questions then. In the meantime, could someone please post a few tips on set-up for when it arrives..... Ta!

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. I already have three Walkera DF#4 FPs - the bird that was cloned to come up with the original Honeybee FP - so I will be able to tell you the diff and similarities between Honeybee & Honeybee v2 in a week I hope.

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