Club ED
12-06-2013, 01:36 PM
#126
Senior Member
Hi, the exact reaction that you're looking for isn't obvious from the above (you don't ask any question), so I'll make a few comments that are only "my opinion".
Firstly, "aeroland" will be Jon Fletcher, who is generally considered to be knowledgeable and reliable, so my initial reaction would be that, if Jon wrote something, then it's probably correct. If Jon says that his engine is from the same period as the Fury (1958), then it's probably a Mk III.
Secondly, I don't know what's been written on the Web, but I think that all the marks of "proper" Racer (i.e. all those with red or green fins), except the Mk I, could be ordered, and thus supplied new, with a glow head. I don't remember any mention of "conversion kits"...
Thirdly, I wasn't aware that ED made glow plugs. If the plug shown is the usual Brit vintage plug with the spherical brass knob head, then it's probably KLG.
Finally, I was under the impression that the spark ignition engines were made at the initiative of Ripmax, the UK distributor and were available, to special order, through the Ripmax dealer network...
These are only my memories and opinions... Others may know differently!
Firstly, "aeroland" will be Jon Fletcher, who is generally considered to be knowledgeable and reliable, so my initial reaction would be that, if Jon wrote something, then it's probably correct. If Jon says that his engine is from the same period as the Fury (1958), then it's probably a Mk III.
Secondly, I don't know what's been written on the Web, but I think that all the marks of "proper" Racer (i.e. all those with red or green fins), except the Mk I, could be ordered, and thus supplied new, with a glow head. I don't remember any mention of "conversion kits"...
Thirdly, I wasn't aware that ED made glow plugs. If the plug shown is the usual Brit vintage plug with the spherical brass knob head, then it's probably KLG.
Finally, I was under the impression that the spark ignition engines were made at the initiative of Ripmax, the UK distributor and were available, to special order, through the Ripmax dealer network...
These are only my memories and opinions... Others may know differently!
12-06-2013, 10:44 PM
#128
Senior Member
OK, my own ED interests stop in the sixties, but the Racer boxes for that period are shown here.
The box top-left was used for all the early production, up to the Mk III (I can't remember the exact year but around 1957/8).
Then, the completely printed box was used "late fifties" to early sixties (Mk III and Mk IV engines).
Finally (for me!), the plain cardboard box with the blue label was used from around 1962/3 until the original company was sold.
This last box may be the one you're referring to. I actually purchased this box new (with an engine in it of course!) in 1963.
To be correct, the engine in this type of box should be a Mk V, i.e. still with red fins, but without a spinner (hex. sleeve prop nut used).
As I said, these are just my own memories and collection. I haven't seen what Jon is selling or what may be written on the Web.
The box top-left was used for all the early production, up to the Mk III (I can't remember the exact year but around 1957/8).
Then, the completely printed box was used "late fifties" to early sixties (Mk III and Mk IV engines).
Finally (for me!), the plain cardboard box with the blue label was used from around 1962/3 until the original company was sold.
This last box may be the one you're referring to. I actually purchased this box new (with an engine in it of course!) in 1963.
To be correct, the engine in this type of box should be a Mk V, i.e. still with red fins, but without a spinner (hex. sleeve prop nut used).
As I said, these are just my own memories and collection. I haven't seen what Jon is selling or what may be written on the Web.
Last edited by brokenenglish; 12-06-2013 at 10:46 PM.
12-07-2013, 08:21 PM
#129
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I decided to run the Super Fury shown on the previous page. It has beautifully free bearings, and great compression seal. It fires easily but will not achieve a sustained run. It will start, then sputter and die. Copious amounts of fuel are ejected from the venturi.
My queries and thoughts are:
1. I need to know which hole in the induction disc the crankpin should engage with, for operation with the needle assembly pointing vertically (in line with the cylinder). There is one hole next to the opening in the disc, and another hole almost diametrically opposite the aperture. An arrow is lightly scribed on the circular plinth on the centre of the disc. It points to the hole next to the intake aperture. Can someone who has used a Super Fury confirm that is correct for use with the needle set vertically?
2. The choke area in the oval profile venbturi seems excessive for use on suction, even if the displacement was 2.5 cc. I will make up a restrictor insert to be held in place by the spraybar. It will be punched for the spraybar to pass through it .
3. The spray bar is drilled for two fuel feed jets. They are not 'offset' to face toward the intake like on a PAW. The spay bar is drilled straight through. The jet holes are also not at the centre of the venturi. The fuel entry end needs to be packed with a 1/64 fibre washer to lower the spray bar ensre the jet holes are centred in the venturi.
4. The induction disc axle is not 'locked' to set clearance. It is a loose push fit into the nylon back plate, and is free to float axially. I suspect the back plate hole is oversize, as the axle can be wobbled when the disc is lifted 1 mm out from the back plate.
.
My queries and thoughts are:
1. I need to know which hole in the induction disc the crankpin should engage with, for operation with the needle assembly pointing vertically (in line with the cylinder). There is one hole next to the opening in the disc, and another hole almost diametrically opposite the aperture. An arrow is lightly scribed on the circular plinth on the centre of the disc. It points to the hole next to the intake aperture. Can someone who has used a Super Fury confirm that is correct for use with the needle set vertically?
2. The choke area in the oval profile venbturi seems excessive for use on suction, even if the displacement was 2.5 cc. I will make up a restrictor insert to be held in place by the spraybar. It will be punched for the spraybar to pass through it .
3. The spray bar is drilled for two fuel feed jets. They are not 'offset' to face toward the intake like on a PAW. The spay bar is drilled straight through. The jet holes are also not at the centre of the venturi. The fuel entry end needs to be packed with a 1/64 fibre washer to lower the spray bar ensre the jet holes are centred in the venturi.
4. The induction disc axle is not 'locked' to set clearance. It is a loose push fit into the nylon back plate, and is free to float axially. I suspect the back plate hole is oversize, as the axle can be wobbled when the disc is lifted 1 mm out from the back plate.
.
Last edited by fiery; 02-02-2014 at 03:13 PM. Reason: add photographs
12-07-2013, 11:21 PM
#130
Senior Member
Derek, I've never handled one of these engines but, concerning your first question, it shouldn't be too difficult to deduce the answer, unless there's something I haven't understood...
Hold the backplate in your selected orientation (you mentioned needle vertical, OK).
Then turn the rotary disc so that the intake port uncovers the carburettor tube (you can see right through!).
The rotary valve is then in the "sucking in" position, which should obviously correspond to around TDC on your crank disc.
So, in this configuration, one of the disc drive holes should be more or less "at the top" (i.e. the crankpin is in the TDC position when the intake port is open).
Install the backplate on that basis, and give it a gentle run...
Hold the backplate in your selected orientation (you mentioned needle vertical, OK).
Then turn the rotary disc so that the intake port uncovers the carburettor tube (you can see right through!).
The rotary valve is then in the "sucking in" position, which should obviously correspond to around TDC on your crank disc.
So, in this configuration, one of the disc drive holes should be more or less "at the top" (i.e. the crankpin is in the TDC position when the intake port is open).
Install the backplate on that basis, and give it a gentle run...
12-11-2013, 06:24 PM
#131
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Gordon Cornell re-designed the Fury 149 to create the Super Fury 149 for ED in the late 50's.
He is still with us, and since approximately 2007 has made a few replica's using a 'machined from solid' crank case.
Exquisite.
He is still with us, and since approximately 2007 has made a few replica's using a 'machined from solid' crank case.
Exquisite.
Last edited by fiery; 12-12-2013 at 02:24 PM.
02-20-2014, 01:19 AM
#133
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I have been fortunate enough to be able to replace the 'botched' back plate / intake disc assembly on the Super Fury Mk II shown above, Hopefully it will now start and perform like a good ED should.
04-28-2014, 11:15 PM
#134
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I bought a new piston for my Racer, it came with a broken liner and a bushed
con rod.
Chris (ffkiwi) tells me that Racers never had a bushed rod, although the Super Racer may have.
Posting mainly because I can't work out how to post a photo on a PM, but others may be interested.
Maybe it's an aftermarket rod?
Dave H
con rod.
Chris (ffkiwi) tells me that Racers never had a bushed rod, although the Super Racer may have.
Posting mainly because I can't work out how to post a photo on a PM, but others may be interested.
Maybe it's an aftermarket rod?
Dave H
04-29-2014, 02:53 PM
#135
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It looks like the rod from a Racer. Maybe a later item as you suggest, or possibly an old rod that was bushed to return it to serviceability after excessive wear in the big end.
Last edited by fiery; 05-20-2014 at 03:03 PM.
04-30-2014, 02:51 PM
#136
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Hard to say what the truth is-as I said by PM to DaveH when he initially contacted me-no normal ED Racer had a bushed rod as manufactured (and I've had a lot through my hands over the years-well over 20 examples)-even the Super Racer didn't have the rod bushed (there is a photo of the Super Racer dismantled in the PGF Chinn engine test) judging by the published data (July 1969 Aeromodeller [I've examined the published photo under magnification]-this does not preclude the possibility of bushed rods having been used at a later date-the Super Racer remained in production into the early 70s, or the rod from another ED model being used-such as the Hunter (possibly with an alteration in gudgeon pin location if the between centres length didn't quite match). I'm still inclined to agree with fiery that it's most likely origin is a retrofit to recover a worn big end...and there were a lot of people capable of doing this sort of work.
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
04-30-2014, 10:38 PM
#137
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Thanks Chris,
I've contacted David Owen and arranged for him to look over my engines and hopefully get a reasonable runner out of the two donors.
Both engines feel a little loose in the con rod but probably not too bad (did I read somewhere that they were designed slightly looser than modern glow engines?) I'll send him the spare rod and piston as well and leave it up to him.
While I would prefer to keep it original, I'd be happy to use the bushed rod if that turned out to be the best one.
Dave H
I've contacted David Owen and arranged for him to look over my engines and hopefully get a reasonable runner out of the two donors.
Both engines feel a little loose in the con rod but probably not too bad (did I read somewhere that they were designed slightly looser than modern glow engines?) I'll send him the spare rod and piston as well and leave it up to him.
While I would prefer to keep it original, I'd be happy to use the bushed rod if that turned out to be the best one.
Dave H
05-04-2014, 06:40 PM
#139
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Guys -
First off, I'm sorry to have, er, ignited, a controversy.
The good news is that 15 minutes ago I heard the sound you guys speak of for the first time, and saw what "OILY" really means!
How I did it will not please you, but it was only a three minute run.
To increase the suspense a bit first ... I called Davis Diesel this AM, and spoke to Mr. Davis. His website calls out two fuels, the 1/2A and "regular". The site says that the 1/2A is good for ... OS10 and antiques. I have an antique, but a 2.46 cm3 engine is a .15 in3. So I was confused, and called him. Like you guys, he thought I was a full blooded idiot at first, until we talked a bit about the RCM Trainer I scratch built from plans in RCM in 1967 at the tender age of 12. However, he did give me a lot of information about diesels, and I have to say he was not kind about the older engines being used in a flying condition ... he really wanted me to get a new 15 diesel so that I could get an easy start. The discussion went off into lalla land when I asked about his website's information about converting a ST2500 to diesel, which I have. I told him I'd get back to him, having not completed the ordering of anything, including the fuel. I'll also say that he trashed my favorite glow fuel, Byrons, which put me off a bit. He also told me that running a 10x6 on this engine did not make sense -- that I should run a 10x3 if using in RC assist to get to altitude quickly.
Broken's comments about firehosing beginners in diesels ... take that to heart as you read on ...
So you guys told me that the ingredients I bought did not have the usual diesel components, specifically that the starter fluid was most likely a lot of heptane, which I should treat like kero, and that the ether was wrong (no di-ethyl ether). I don't know what possessed me, but Broken seemed to think these might work - I sprayed a bit of SF near the intake, and darn if that engine did not pop - seemed to me she really wanted to run. So ... I mixed about 35% castor, 50% starter fluid (Prestone), 15% kero, and a couple squirts of the Diesel Kleen with cetane boost.
I had a 10x6 on it because Broken says he does it ... and he has pictures to prove it.
Amazing. Without choking, she popped. I had the needle out three turns and the compression screw fairly backed off, so I just kept turning in 1/4 turns on the CS until she sounded almost ready ... then tweaked the needle in until she really almost took off ... and one more 1/8 of a turn on the CS and she was off and running! Very pleasing sound, I must say.
I ran long enough to get a tach of 5280 on a Top Flite 10x6, and shut her down. I could not stand it so I started her one more time and shutdown immediately. I felt the cylinder ... amazingly cool!
I would say I flipped about thirty times to dial in the needle and CS. Oh, come on, don't smirk! This was my first time!
My measurements were not at all scientific, so if I do this again, I'll be more careful in blending - I just made darn sure I had 35% castor. But I did what I set out to do ... get this engine checked out and running. I wanted to see what this stuff is all about - and learn a bit. Now, I have to decide if I keep her or fly her.
Thanks guys for all your help! I won't run it like this again if you think it is a bad idea - I know that I am the curator of a piece of model aviation history here and won't screw it up.
Wow! That sound!! Baaaaaaaaaaaaaabbabaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
First off, I'm sorry to have, er, ignited, a controversy.
The good news is that 15 minutes ago I heard the sound you guys speak of for the first time, and saw what "OILY" really means!
How I did it will not please you, but it was only a three minute run.
To increase the suspense a bit first ... I called Davis Diesel this AM, and spoke to Mr. Davis. His website calls out two fuels, the 1/2A and "regular". The site says that the 1/2A is good for ... OS10 and antiques. I have an antique, but a 2.46 cm3 engine is a .15 in3. So I was confused, and called him. Like you guys, he thought I was a full blooded idiot at first, until we talked a bit about the RCM Trainer I scratch built from plans in RCM in 1967 at the tender age of 12. However, he did give me a lot of information about diesels, and I have to say he was not kind about the older engines being used in a flying condition ... he really wanted me to get a new 15 diesel so that I could get an easy start. The discussion went off into lalla land when I asked about his website's information about converting a ST2500 to diesel, which I have. I told him I'd get back to him, having not completed the ordering of anything, including the fuel. I'll also say that he trashed my favorite glow fuel, Byrons, which put me off a bit. He also told me that running a 10x6 on this engine did not make sense -- that I should run a 10x3 if using in RC assist to get to altitude quickly.
Broken's comments about firehosing beginners in diesels ... take that to heart as you read on ...
So you guys told me that the ingredients I bought did not have the usual diesel components, specifically that the starter fluid was most likely a lot of heptane, which I should treat like kero, and that the ether was wrong (no di-ethyl ether). I don't know what possessed me, but Broken seemed to think these might work - I sprayed a bit of SF near the intake, and darn if that engine did not pop - seemed to me she really wanted to run. So ... I mixed about 35% castor, 50% starter fluid (Prestone), 15% kero, and a couple squirts of the Diesel Kleen with cetane boost.
I had a 10x6 on it because Broken says he does it ... and he has pictures to prove it.
Amazing. Without choking, she popped. I had the needle out three turns and the compression screw fairly backed off, so I just kept turning in 1/4 turns on the CS until she sounded almost ready ... then tweaked the needle in until she really almost took off ... and one more 1/8 of a turn on the CS and she was off and running! Very pleasing sound, I must say.
I ran long enough to get a tach of 5280 on a Top Flite 10x6, and shut her down. I could not stand it so I started her one more time and shutdown immediately. I felt the cylinder ... amazingly cool!
I would say I flipped about thirty times to dial in the needle and CS. Oh, come on, don't smirk! This was my first time!
My measurements were not at all scientific, so if I do this again, I'll be more careful in blending - I just made darn sure I had 35% castor. But I did what I set out to do ... get this engine checked out and running. I wanted to see what this stuff is all about - and learn a bit. Now, I have to decide if I keep her or fly her.
Thanks guys for all your help! I won't run it like this again if you think it is a bad idea - I know that I am the curator of a piece of model aviation history here and won't screw it up.
Wow! That sound!! Baaaaaaaaaaaaaabbabaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
I used a starter fluid with 20 % ether and mixed about 1/3 x1/3x 1/3 roughly,,,, and it ran a Chinese Diesel
Just enough power to do a vertical hand launch get real loose on the lines and crash into a million pieces , it was a fun day
Last edited by 123Cat; 05-04-2014 at 06:51 PM.
06-03-2014, 01:18 AM
#140
Senior Member
Running an early E.D. Comp. Special
I've just posted a very short running session with an early Comp. Special, one of my "all time favourites"!
06-05-2014, 09:45 PM
#142
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Wonderful things those old Comp. Specials.
Mine is a bit of a "bitza" with a MK2 case because the real one was busted, and a large metal tank that I think is also MK2, but the rest of it is as original, and it performs exactly like the one in that great video.
It's in a Free Flight Frankenstein from an early '50s Aeromodeller mag. that I built in 1981.
Mine is a bit of a "bitza" with a MK2 case because the real one was busted, and a large metal tank that I think is also MK2, but the rest of it is as original, and it performs exactly like the one in that great video.
It's in a Free Flight Frankenstein from an early '50s Aeromodeller mag. that I built in 1981.
06-05-2014, 11:59 PM
#143
Senior Member
Hi Gossie, I think you may be under-estimating your Comp. Special.
To explain quickly, ED made a huge error. The original intention was to continue the Mk II (Penny Slot), in parallel with the Comp. Special. However, with the success of the Comp. Special, Penny Slot sales fell to zero (obviously), so Penny Slot components were used up on the Comp. Special.
The first obvious result is the tank. Originally, the Comp Special tanks were red or yellow plastic, and in two sizes (CL and FF - the FF tanks are very rare), but with Penny Slot sales at zero, the alloy tanks were used up on the Comp Special.
And similarly for the crankcase. Early Comp Specials have the scalloped mounting lug edges, as a slight "upgrade feature" in relation to the Penny Slot, but when the Penny Slot was discontinued, ED stopped scalloping the Comp Special mounting lugs.
The bottom line is that very many Comp. Specials were sold with alloy tanks and "straight" lugs, neither of which was part of the original specification... and yours may well be one of those.
Finally, the front bearing. I think the original Comp. Special front bearings were marked "Mk II", but when the Mk III (2.49) was planned, many castings were made marked "Mk III". That engine was discontinued and few 2.49s were made, so the front bearings marked "Mk III" were also used up on the Comp. Special. At first, ED changed the "Mk III" to "Mk II" by filing off the last character but, after a while, they no longer bothered, so original Comp Special front bearings may be marked "Mk II", "Mk III" or (Mk III filed down to Mk II) !.
The bottom line is that all the above has been followed by 60 years of parts swapping by just about everyone... and the Comp Special is STILL a great engine!
To explain quickly, ED made a huge error. The original intention was to continue the Mk II (Penny Slot), in parallel with the Comp. Special. However, with the success of the Comp. Special, Penny Slot sales fell to zero (obviously), so Penny Slot components were used up on the Comp. Special.
The first obvious result is the tank. Originally, the Comp Special tanks were red or yellow plastic, and in two sizes (CL and FF - the FF tanks are very rare), but with Penny Slot sales at zero, the alloy tanks were used up on the Comp Special.
And similarly for the crankcase. Early Comp Specials have the scalloped mounting lug edges, as a slight "upgrade feature" in relation to the Penny Slot, but when the Penny Slot was discontinued, ED stopped scalloping the Comp Special mounting lugs.
The bottom line is that very many Comp. Specials were sold with alloy tanks and "straight" lugs, neither of which was part of the original specification... and yours may well be one of those.
Finally, the front bearing. I think the original Comp. Special front bearings were marked "Mk II", but when the Mk III (2.49) was planned, many castings were made marked "Mk III". That engine was discontinued and few 2.49s were made, so the front bearings marked "Mk III" were also used up on the Comp. Special. At first, ED changed the "Mk III" to "Mk II" by filing off the last character but, after a while, they no longer bothered, so original Comp Special front bearings may be marked "Mk II", "Mk III" or (Mk III filed down to Mk II) !.
The bottom line is that all the above has been followed by 60 years of parts swapping by just about everyone... and the Comp Special is STILL a great engine!
Last edited by brokenenglish; 06-06-2014 at 12:43 AM.
06-06-2014, 12:15 AM
#144
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Just to add complication a lot of Penny Slots were upgraded with Comp Special heads and tommy bars.
The tell tale features are the small transfer channels and the shallow exhaust ports with no sub piston induction.
This assumes of course the Mk II stacks were also long gone by this stage.
It's quite common to see upgraded Penny Slots mis-identified on Ebay.
The tell tale features are the small transfer channels and the shallow exhaust ports with no sub piston induction.
This assumes of course the Mk II stacks were also long gone by this stage.
It's quite common to see upgraded Penny Slots mis-identified on Ebay.
06-06-2014, 02:01 PM
#145
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Thanks b.e. for your kind remarks.
I did have a MK2 many many years ago and know the tank on it and the Comp. Spec. are the same.........So that clears that up.
When I bought this Comp. Spec. in the '70s the lugs were damaged and later on when I built the Franky I mounted it head down as per the plan. Some years later it arrived over a rock hitting the head and doing further damage to the lugs.
I then fitted a Burford Deezil into it, head upright, and of course it worked well. (Have that in a Goldberg Interceptor as of now.)
A few years ago I got hold of some bits from Comp. Specials and MK2s and rebuilt my engine. The crankcase has numbers on the rear behind the carb. but with no "C" in them and had no scallops, but I used the Dremel and ground them in to make it look more "real".
Back into the Franky, head upright, and sold all the bits I had to Chris........Are they still laying about Chris?
Just to add to Warrens post re. MK2s. At our annual Old Phartz meet, last years there was a model with what looked to be a MK2 in very nice condition. On checking it, it had no sub piston induction so of course made it as it should be.
It also was a one flick starter. The comp. or needle valve never got touched all day over many flights.
I did have a MK2 many many years ago and know the tank on it and the Comp. Spec. are the same.........So that clears that up.
When I bought this Comp. Spec. in the '70s the lugs were damaged and later on when I built the Franky I mounted it head down as per the plan. Some years later it arrived over a rock hitting the head and doing further damage to the lugs.
I then fitted a Burford Deezil into it, head upright, and of course it worked well. (Have that in a Goldberg Interceptor as of now.)
A few years ago I got hold of some bits from Comp. Specials and MK2s and rebuilt my engine. The crankcase has numbers on the rear behind the carb. but with no "C" in them and had no scallops, but I used the Dremel and ground them in to make it look more "real".
Back into the Franky, head upright, and sold all the bits I had to Chris........Are they still laying about Chris?
Just to add to Warrens post re. MK2s. At our annual Old Phartz meet, last years there was a model with what looked to be a MK2 in very nice condition. On checking it, it had no sub piston induction so of course made it as it should be.
It also was a one flick starter. The comp. or needle valve never got touched all day over many flights.
Last edited by gossie; 06-06-2014 at 02:05 PM.
06-06-2014, 03:37 PM
#146
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Yes-still got them Howard-and done a bit of restoration. I did want to rebuild using one of the CNC crankcases available in the UK-but the guy wanted far too much for it-well more than the going price for a complete Comp Spl on Ebay, so didn't pursue that option in the end. Here's another one I've restored-the tank, tank top, NVA, spinner, and the ancillary brass bits plus the reblued comp screw are all my efforts. The tank and spinner took a lot of work...
PS this example is one of the aforementioned ones with an unaltered 'Mk III' on the front housing.....
PS this example is one of the aforementioned ones with an unaltered 'Mk III' on the front housing.....
Last edited by ffkiwi; 06-06-2014 at 03:43 PM.
08-25-2014, 11:48 PM
#148
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Hi All,
Here are a few photos of my ED Racer recently refurbished by David Owen.
I had purchased a good looking Racer with a broken liner and a well used modified Racer with worn piston and liner from a friend. I also acquired a spare piston. My idea was to fit the new piston to the worn liner and assemble a good engine from the remaining parts. The new(ish) piston didn't fit and I realised it would require lapping.
At this stage I sought the advice of Fiery and ffkiwi who suggested David Owen or Jon Fletcher would be the best bet.
It turns out my engines were worse than I first thought with bent shafts (a crash would explain the dent in the head and perhaps the broken liner and low use look of the 'good' engine). All the pistons were rust damaged beyond repair.
David made a new piston and contra set for the engine, he bought a hone specially for this job and when my liner lapped out of round he donated one to the job. All within the original quote.
After a happy couple of hours running the engine in (short, low load, rich, runs with a complete cool down in between) my engine has perfect compression seal and turns a Master 9X4 at 10500 rpm slightly rich.
Unfortunately the engine fell off a low coffee table and even though I partially intercepted it with my foot and it landed on carpet, I still managed to break the needle valve. The third photo shows the new needle made by a friend of mine ready for trimming to length.
Now to build a model for it.
Thanks Fiery, ffkiwi, and David.
Dave H
Here are a few photos of my ED Racer recently refurbished by David Owen.
I had purchased a good looking Racer with a broken liner and a well used modified Racer with worn piston and liner from a friend. I also acquired a spare piston. My idea was to fit the new piston to the worn liner and assemble a good engine from the remaining parts. The new(ish) piston didn't fit and I realised it would require lapping.
At this stage I sought the advice of Fiery and ffkiwi who suggested David Owen or Jon Fletcher would be the best bet.
It turns out my engines were worse than I first thought with bent shafts (a crash would explain the dent in the head and perhaps the broken liner and low use look of the 'good' engine). All the pistons were rust damaged beyond repair.
David made a new piston and contra set for the engine, he bought a hone specially for this job and when my liner lapped out of round he donated one to the job. All within the original quote.
After a happy couple of hours running the engine in (short, low load, rich, runs with a complete cool down in between) my engine has perfect compression seal and turns a Master 9X4 at 10500 rpm slightly rich.
Unfortunately the engine fell off a low coffee table and even though I partially intercepted it with my foot and it landed on carpet, I still managed to break the needle valve. The third photo shows the new needle made by a friend of mine ready for trimming to length.
Now to build a model for it.
Thanks Fiery, ffkiwi, and David.
Dave H
Last edited by gerryndennis; 08-25-2014 at 11:51 PM.
08-26-2014, 03:31 PM
#149
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Glad to see them sorted.
Here are 3D printed replacement back plate and induction parts for the ED Racer and ED Super Fury.
http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=ED+Racer&s=0
Here are 3D printed replacement back plate and induction parts for the ED Racer and ED Super Fury.
http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=ED+Racer&s=0
08-26-2014, 05:25 PM
#150
My Feedback: (1)
Glad to see them sorted.
Here are 3D printed replacement back plate and induction parts for the ED Racer and ED Super Fury.
http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=ED+Racer&s=0
Here are 3D printed replacement back plate and induction parts for the ED Racer and ED Super Fury.
http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=ED+Racer&s=0
That's an interesting development. I guess that you're buying the computer file allowing you to then load the same into a 3-D Printer and then produce the real item. e.g a backplate.
Our local Council Library network has a 3-D Printer available for use by the public.
Might work!
:-)