qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

No it won't evaporate right away. Why not spray it into a bottle? That way you can be sure that you really have something. Sounds like up till now you haven't been getting enough ether into your mix.Once it's in a bottle you can mix it in with the other components.

atesus

My Feedback: (1)

The best way is to start with ether sprayed into the container. Ether will not readily evaporate. What will evaporate while spraying though, is the propane in the JD Starting Fluid which is used as propellant. You'll end up with pure ether plus some negligible amounts of lubricants which are harmless.

As for flicking, don't use your entire hand and your arm. Try using two fingers (index + middle) and practice flicking from your wrist in a snappy fashion. Watching some YouTube videos of people starting Diesels may also be helpful.

beatsal

At long last today it started. Without all of your advice, I would still be flicking it for a few more weeks! Thanks.
I now want to build an airplane to use this engine - suggestions appreciated.

atesus

My Feedback: (1)

Great! Glad to hear.

beatsal

Wonder what model airplane is best suited for this ED 3.46 Hunter diesel?

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

So what worked? Was it the way you mixed your fuel?

beatsal

Yes and stronger flicks and priming

beatsal

Please help me select a suitable model airplane kit for my 3.46 Hunter which runs now.

Coxfledgling

Hurrah, she runs !!!

Now get used to starting her a tuning for good running. Not to weak and not too much compression.

Remember lessons learnt about fuel tank etc..

It's not an Rc engine ( but could be ) and has no silencer.

It's not really advisable to have a non RC engine in an RC plane, unless it's a glider and short engine run to gain hieght.

However an RC fuel "kill" system could be made to stop engine when things go wrong.

I would think about a period model.

You know of outer zone or do you want a kit ?

Any RC experience, or control line experience ?

So glad she is a runner.

beatsal

Yes, so glad that it ran - after decades!
What is a period model? Don't know of outer zone so kit may be best. No RC or CL experience.

Dieseltinus

www.outerzone.co.uk

Coxfledgling

Period model, a model of the same era as the engine.

No RC or control line experience....

Free flight ? Forget that, your life is tooo short.

See outer zone...

I would recommend an RC convertion of the centinal "found" model. It's rubber powered free flight but converts easily to RC. Your engine is way too powerfully for its original size but scaled up X3 and engine RC converted, would be a good beginners model I feel.

Perhaps a super 60 for your engine, but again an RC convertion needed for your engine.

Find a club near you. Watch control line flying and RC flying, see if it takes your fancy.

DO NOT go it alone, you will need some training for RC ( a lot ) and cl flying.

Good luck.

So glad your engine runs, make a display shelf for it to extend its life.

Over and out from me.

beatsal

"I would recommend an RC convertion of the centinal "found" model. It's rubber powered free flight but converts easily to RC. Your engine is way too powerfully for its original size but scaled up X3 and engine RC converted, would be a good beginners model I feel."
This looks a good idea. So, you are saying a sentinel model converted to RC upscaled X3 and powered by my engine? No luck so far in converting mine to RC, may be use it as CL?

beatsal

A pic of my DUBRO fuel tan - does not work in this config. fuel doesn't flow. So far, used my homemade tank but now have to put engine in an airplane it hence need dubro.

dubro vent tube on top fuel line at bottom

beatsal

I give up on the Dubro tank. Is there any other fuel tank available that works?

atesus

My Feedback: (1)

Not sure why you don't get any flow in your tank. Can you please show how you put the the cap assembly together?

In any event, the standard cap which comes with the nylon tanks is usually good for glow fuel only. If you don't have it already, you'd need to order a cap kit for diesel fuel.

--Ates

beatsal

Here is a pic.

Dubro connected to engine

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

It's the internal tank connections that are important. From your pic it seems like you have none. you need a piece of internal tubing connected to one of the Brass internal pipes to a length of tubing with a brass barb on the end. The DuBro tank needs extensive modification for diesel fuel which makes it inpractible in my opinion. All the tubing needs to be Tygon and the plug the alternate sold by DuBro for Petrol and/or diesel fuel.

An old fashioned tin tank is much more useful.

This video explains the plumbing of the DuBro product.

beatsal

Yes that is why I am giving up on Dubro (previous post). Any idea where to get the tin tank you mentioned?

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

Well, we old timers make them out of tin, or Brass sheet (.008-.010" thick) with Copper or Brass tubing, and solder them together with Lead/Tin or Staybrite type solders and a low temperature iron.

As an alternative there are quite a range of containers made of Tin Plated Steel that can be converted.

Brodak is probably the only commercial source these days. However people seem to complain about how expensive they are.

https://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank/brodak-tanks.html

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

If you're just running on the bench then you can make a decent tank out of a small glass jar with a screw on lid. DuBro sell a decent range of Brass or Copper tube. About 3mm or 1/8" diameter will do just fine.

Drill two interference fit holes in the lid. Cut and fit one tube so that almost touches the bottom of the glass. The exposed end of this tube will go to the engine NVA. The other hole is a breather. You can solder a short pipe into it, but it's not necessary.

You can also make diesel fuel tanks out of epoxy coated balsa. Some epoxies are diesel fuel proof especially those with a military specification. You do need to experiment if you're going that way.

beatsal

Thanks will try this. Now am also trying to make a crankcase cover plate for my DC merlin but don't know how or where to start.

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

Do you mean a backplate? You'd need a lathe to do that. There must be thousands of disassembled broken and/or clapped DC Merlins in peoples shed drawers. Perhaps widen your search onto other diesel forums?

beatsal

Problem is not many diesel forums around

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

So where are you?