Paw 2.5
#1
Thread Starter
Paw 2.5
Has anyone ever tried running a PAW 2.5 with no amil nitrate. I have an R/C version and want to run it on a 1/3-1/3-1/3 mix. What are your thoughts?
#2
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Hervey Bay Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unitrated Fuel
Should be fine.
However, to ensure optimum performance why not buy a quart bottle of Amsoil Diesel Cetane Boost and use that instead?
It is a very effective and inexpensive substitute and at 1.5% of the mix a bottle will last a very long time.
However, to ensure optimum performance why not buy a quart bottle of Amsoil Diesel Cetane Boost and use that instead?
It is a very effective and inexpensive substitute and at 1.5% of the mix a bottle will last a very long time.
#4
Thread Starter
I've done it and does it ever start nice on low compression. Does anyone know if the 1.49 and the 2.49 share the same crank case? My 2.49 seems quite small.
#6
Thread Starter
It came in a box from Macclesfield marked 2.49. I had a 1.49 from the 1960's and it seems the same. The 2.49 seems quite anemic with an 8X6. Mabe it was put in a 2.49 box by accident? I can't see Tony making that mistake.
#8
Thread Starter
#12
My Feedback: (1)
Righty tighty, lefty loosy.
It's worked every time.
Last edited by qazimoto; 04-24-2017 at 03:21 PM.
#13
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If no lathe handy, put your coin in a bench vice and position the back plate slot over the coin and turn the engine anti clockwise. If it's stubborn place the engine in an over and heat at 200c for about 10 minutes.
#14
My Feedback: (1)
That temperature is perilously close to the critical heat treatment temperature of some Aluminium alloys. I'd stick to under 100 degrees C and only as a last resort, and after stripping anything inflammable off the engine. Boiling on the stove in a pot of water would be much safer.
#15
To Controlliner's Q: in Post 10 -
In the USA, at least, there are still a few "hardware stores" (UK equiv: 'ironmongers' ?) which sell small parts loose, I..e., not packaged in always the wrong number of pieces. ( 3 bolts or 12 bolts in shrink-wrap when you need but one... or 4.) In the "fasteners" section you can find bins or drawers of individual iron washers in many diameters and thicknesses. ...and much else. The clerks never seem to mind when I bring, e.g., a PAW to find which iron washer has the best diameter and thickness for correct fit, or which small Phillips head screw driver fits an odd small metric screw...Or which metric or SAE thread comes close to fitting some oddball Pacific Rim or Eastern European thread.(Some come very close!)
The first few times, I made sure to ask the section clerks where I could find things, so they'd know I wasn't trying to sneak something by. By now, they recognize me and let me dig.
I would rather clamp a properly fitting iron washer in a vise, than ANY part of a model engine. My old, old Unimat mini-lathe would probably withstand using the 3-jaw as a clamp, but if it doesn't, a replacement part will be very hard to find...And yes, each PAW engine size will need its own "best fit" washer for the job, possibly excepting their .15 (2.49) and .19 engines...
In the USA, at least, there are still a few "hardware stores" (UK equiv: 'ironmongers' ?) which sell small parts loose, I..e., not packaged in always the wrong number of pieces. ( 3 bolts or 12 bolts in shrink-wrap when you need but one... or 4.) In the "fasteners" section you can find bins or drawers of individual iron washers in many diameters and thicknesses. ...and much else. The clerks never seem to mind when I bring, e.g., a PAW to find which iron washer has the best diameter and thickness for correct fit, or which small Phillips head screw driver fits an odd small metric screw...Or which metric or SAE thread comes close to fitting some oddball Pacific Rim or Eastern European thread.(Some come very close!)
The first few times, I made sure to ask the section clerks where I could find things, so they'd know I wasn't trying to sneak something by. By now, they recognize me and let me dig.
I would rather clamp a properly fitting iron washer in a vise, than ANY part of a model engine. My old, old Unimat mini-lathe would probably withstand using the 3-jaw as a clamp, but if it doesn't, a replacement part will be very hard to find...And yes, each PAW engine size will need its own "best fit" washer for the job, possibly excepting their .15 (2.49) and .19 engines...