Synthetic oil
#1
Thread Starter
Synthetic oil
I know this is a sacrilegious question but, has anyone used synthetic oil in their diesels? I'm seeing castor oil as getting very spendy. $69.00 for 4 liters of Castrol Benol. I am a firm believer in the castor oil Gods and the excellent lubrication properties, but.....money.
#2
Look at BulkApothecary.com. Castor oil sells for around $17USD/gal. The shipping might be kind of expensive, but it likely would be cheaper than your current option. I've been using oil from genre and have seen no discernible differences between it and the stuff I got from S&W fuels a few years ago.
#4
Didn't the diesels use mineral oil up to the 1970s? I would think substituting a similar weight synthetic might be ok. Most of them mix with kero AFAIK, alcohol is the tough one to mix with. Yes, Klotz here would be $15 a litre. Even car motor oil is seldom less than $5 a litre. What about 2 stroke oil mixed maybe 20:1 or whatever? IDK, I'm not really a diesel guy-yet. Ether is controlled except for truck motor starter spray.
#5
I wouldn't worry about using synthetic oil in a modern technology diesel that's ABC or AAC for example, but you couldn't pay me enough to use any synthetic oil in a ferrous piston engine. Diesels are "old school" technology, so I stick with and will recommend an "old school" fuel. Just my two cents.
#6
Thread Starter
Didn't the diesels use mineral oil up to the 1970s? I would think substituting a similar weight synthetic might be ok. Most of them mix with kero AFAIK, alcohol is the tough one to mix with. Yes, Klotz here would be $15 a litre. Even car motor oil is seldom less than $5 a litre. What about 2 stroke oil mixed maybe 20:1 or whatever? IDK, I'm not really a diesel guy-yet. Ether is controlled except for truck motor starter spray.
#8
I remember reading a pamphlet for I think Drone diesels or something like it from the same era with the fuel requirements being 70wt mineral oil and ether only. Kerosene has too much energy and usually if used would blow them apart. I suspect those old engines ran on the ether and the oil sealed them up so they'd actually run. I want to say the oil component was somewhere around 40% with the remainer being ether.
#9
Join Date: Jul 2016
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Back in the day we used a mix of 25% straight 40W motor oil, 25% ether, 47% paraffin (kerosene), 3% amyl nitrate. All available at the local chemist, hardware shop and petrol station for sale to a 13 year old schoolboy....... This was the combat mix, the general sport mix used a bit more ether and less amyl and paraffin. I've only got the combat mix written down.
#11
Thread Starter
Back in the day we used a mix of 25% straight 40W motor oil, 25% ether, 47% paraffin (kerosene), 3% amyl nitrate. All available at the local chemist, hardware shop and petrol station for sale to a 13 year old schoolboy....... This was the combat mix, the general sport mix used a bit more ether and less amyl and paraffin. I've only got the combat mix written down.
#12
Excuse me while I snicker. Long life in a combat motor might be less than a season, or two matches. Broken needles, cases... Depends on if there are midairs mostly, but regular crashes hurt too. I will add that just going through a 1970s homelite chainsaw manual, that 30W oil was used for the motor, and for the chain. Now they are all coloured different, and snowmobile, outboard and motorcycle oils are all different. At least the bottles and price tags are.
Last edited by aspeed; 05-07-2017 at 07:34 AM.
#13
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We used what we could afford, castor was expensive. Paraffin mixes well with mineral oil and acts as a lubricant in its own right, I don't remember any particular issues with engine wear. If in doubt replace the 40W with castor, it'll still work!
#15
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That unforgettable sound as two combat models meet head on. that particular howl/splat as your lovingly prepared Copeman tuned Ollie met another less worthy engine. The thought still brings a tear to my eyes. PAW's were tough but not as fast, AM's were fast and fragile, Frogs were too heavy, glows were for Americans......What you needed was a nylon covered Dominator (or similar) with an Ollie or ST 20/15D hung off its nose for success