You were right - I was wrong...
#1
You were right - I was wrong...
Someone asked me about my Irvine .20 Diesel R/C engine a while back and I mistakenly misremembered it as being a standard glow engine that I would have to fit with a conversion head for Diesel operation. I found it this morning. They were right, I was wrong.
What I don't like about it is that the engine is extremely difficult to turn over in its present state, even when the piston crown has cleared the exhaust port. Not a good sign. If it were a glow engine, I'd suspect dried castor oil...
Ed Cregger
What I don't like about it is that the engine is extremely difficult to turn over in its present state, even when the piston crown has cleared the exhaust port. Not a good sign. If it were a glow engine, I'd suspect dried castor oil...
Ed Cregger
#3
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Location: coffs harbourn.s.w, AUSTRALIA
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RE: You were right - I was wrong...
Best way to ruin an engine to turn over when dry or gummed,have seen a few engines with the eyes pulled out of the rod turning on the down cycle,only other thing worse is to run over it with a tractor !!!
#4
#5
RE: You were right - I was wrong...
I'm not applying a huge amount of force to it. Even I know better than that. Besides, I'm only using my old arthritic fingers. Fingers that cannot remove the caps from most plastic bottled sodas/pops these days. (smile)
Thanks for the kind offer, Hobbsy. I might squirt some penetrator into it. I suspect that you are right about the congealed castor oil.
Ed Cregger
Thanks for the kind offer, Hobbsy. I might squirt some penetrator into it. I suspect that you are right about the congealed castor oil.
Ed Cregger
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Upper HuttWellington, NEW ZEALAND
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RE: You were right - I was wrong...
Ed try putting the engine complete in the oven at about 220F for 10-15 minutes-then remove, squirt in some solvent (WD 40 or CRDC 5-56 works quite well for this application), put a prop on it and gently try to turn over-the heat should have sofdtened any castor, and the solvent will both penetrate better and free things up-once you have it moving freely (albeit perhaps stiffly) then give it some oil and keep things moving. It should free up quite quickly once you start getting solvent and oil distributed. A few good flicks (once you have determined that it IS free) will get it back to usable condition. This approach has never failed me yet-providing you only have a gummed up engine issue-ie there is no mechanical problem such as a broken rod or wristpin jammed in a port. The bearings might feel a bit lumpy for a bit if there is gummed castor in them, but that normally dissipates as well.
I hope I don't have to remind you to use an oven mitt or glove when you take it out of the oven and while you're handling it while hot...........
'ffkiwi'
I hope I don't have to remind you to use an oven mitt or glove when you take it out of the oven and while you're handling it while hot...........
'ffkiwi'
#9
RE: You were right - I was wrong...
Ed,
If you decide to flush it out yourself, I would suggest drenching it in glow fuel. Both the nitro and alcohol penetrate well and will mix with the castor very easily. Just be sure to thoroughly flush with kerosene and oil it afterward to prevent rusting the innards.
George
If you decide to flush it out yourself, I would suggest drenching it in glow fuel. Both the nitro and alcohol penetrate well and will mix with the castor very easily. Just be sure to thoroughly flush with kerosene and oil it afterward to prevent rusting the innards.
George