How do I remove dried castor oil from Diesel engines??
 

Hello all:

I recently purchased a number of old "Team Race" Diesel engines.. The bad thing is that they are all stuck with castor oil that has been on the engines for at least 4 decades. The following brands of engines are represented: ETA, ST and Webra. These engines have been modified in many ways to enhance performance.

The main problem that I am experiencing is that I can not get the contra piston to move freely in the cylinder. They are too tight to move to alter the compression.

I atttempted to clean a cylinder with steel wool spun on a brush with solvent but to no avail. This leads me to think of a more aggressive methods of removing the castor residue. I used a heat gun to get the engine freed up to where I could clean the insides. The contra piston is the main sticking problem. Would cooking in a crock pot fwith antifreeze remove this residue. How about chemical oven cleaner? I know NOT to use an abrasive on the contra and cylinder as before you know what happended, the contra is undersize!!!!

How does one crock pot an engine? Is the entire engine cooked and then disassembled for cleaning or is the engine disassembled prior to crock potting?

How may I clean these engines? They appear to be great engines but even the nva are stuck!!!!

Tia,

Franchi

The contra piston will free itself while running, would be more concerned about the BB condition. Is that what you have?
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20Mk%20II.html
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...ST%20G.20.html
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20%282%29.html

Plenty on the 'glow' forum on this.

Main contenders:

1. Boil in water with a little hand dish clean detergent, with prompt drying and oiling

2. The loved/reviled automotive coolant ('green' ethylene glycol) crockpot method.

3. Solvent soak. Acetone with ATF fluid seems popular .

4. Gel paint stripper on exterior alloy surfaces

I am sure others will chime in with various suggestions. Take your pick.

People who crockpot engines sometimes report a change in the colour of the crankcase Aluminium afterwards.

Locally a product known as . CLR Grease and Oil remover is highly regarded as something that cleans crankcases without altering them.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1428481504

The product seems to be similar to CLR Grease Magnet as sold in the US.

If the cylinder is out of the crankcase you may find it easier to tap the Contra down the cylinder using a short piece of wooden dowel and a light hammer.

It should fall out once it reaches below the exhausts. It'll make it easier to clean that way. Otherwise I've found that tapping the contra up and down the cylinder a few times using the wooden dowel works well in freeing them from Carbon deposits.

Acetone and a mineral wool pot scour pad will remove varnish so I can't see it failing against the shorter polymer chains of gum.

To Coriolan:
 

Yes those are indeed the engines that I am working to get free. I have an ETA Elete that is also in the mix. I have about 15 engines to clean.

I used to live in B.C. and Alberta. A great country with great people!!!

Thanks for the help,

Franchi

The ETA Elite is also a classic!
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20Mk%20II.html
Used to live in Vancouver,BC until recently now in the frozen East:(

courtesy RCFAQ: crockpot method. Search RCU for other methods including more on AF.

Go to the Goodwill Store or second hand store and buy a crock pot for $3. Flyer111
First pass cleans the crockpot, the second pass is safe for expensive engines, if the temp controls work. jefgeo123

Recently on a thread on RCO a fellow did an extensive test of cleaning engines with antifreeze. He found that all of the brands he tested worked the same including Sierra (the non toxic brand). He also said that he saw no difference when the antifreeze was mixed 50/50 with water. It did not work at all if the antifreeze wasn't heated. The last engines I did, I used straight regular antifreeze. I put my engine parts in a small tin coffee can and fill it just high enough to cover the parts. I set the coffee can in the crock pot, set it on low and cover the top with a piece of plywood leaving a small gap so the fumes escape. I usually turn it on at night and then shut it off when I get home from work. Out of the six engines that I have done, two of them still had gunk after soaking for two days that I had to remove with Z-Best. I am going to try reducing it with water the next time. John Bower

I found the antifreeze and even the Dawn Power Dissolver clean the outside nicely, but did not really do much inside the motor. I still used scotchbrite, and acetone on the piston / cyl. I would guess that the contra piston would be similar to that. Once it is freed up it should be fine, as has been mentioned. A good soaking in kerosene should be enough for the head? and then whichever method you choose for the rest. I am too lazy to use the crock pot now, and just use the Dawn PD. I have even left the motor on the plane. I have heard rumours that 'Totally Awesome' cleaner works well when used straight with no heat. I bought some to try, but have been busy, and have no dirty motors left.

+1 on Dawn Power Dissolver. But, I have been unable to find it at less than outrageous prices now.:( Will you sell me your stash since you don't have any dirty engines?:)

Sincerely, Richard

The postage in this country would kill you. Ya, I got three bottles when I finally found it. I would just go to the Dollar Tree and get the Totally Awesome stuff, and experiment a bit. Only a buck if it doesn't work. Carb cleaner that you dunk into is another way. I have not tried it, but research these things to death.

Postage in US is a bit out of control, too. I am helping someone with an eBay business and the shipping is killer the biz. The only people who make any money on the lower cost items is eBay, PP, and the USPS. We're just the mules for them, ugh.

I just picked up a case of Dawn Professional Power Dissolver. Comes in a white bottle, 32 oz. Expensive, not the $2.95 Walmart version which is now unobtainable.
I stopped at the post office right near where I bought the DPPD to check on shipping constraints. I took a bottle to the window and the person was really helpful and knowledgeable about hazardous materials. The DPPD has a "caustic" rating stamped on it and apparently you can only ship 16 ounces at a time. That is why it is $23 on eBay - shipping.

On my way home I called P&G and asked if it is the same formulation as the old red bottle. She, of course, said recipes are proprietary, but after talking a while she did say this was stronger.

When I got home I tried it out in my sink on a white farborware ceramic bowl I use for cooking on the grill. The bowl had almost permanent grunge on it.
Sprayed it with the DPPD and it worked to remove 50% of baked on grime. A little scrubbing with Scotchbrite got another 25% off.
Still a little left and I will give it another treatment tomorrow to see if I can get everything off. If the mung is still resilient, I will use a heat gun on it, too, as I would with an engine.

From what I have read, nobody is using this on the internals of the engine, or am I wrong.?

I also got myself a gallon of denatured alcohol, yesterday - man that stuff got expensive - almost $16 a gallon at Lowes. Anyway, I am in the habit of rinsing the outside of the engine with that, using a bristle brush to help get rid of fuel/oil residue after running the engine.

If anyone is interested in having me cut the volume in half of the DPPD so it can be shipped, I can send out 16oz, let me know. I think I can ship USPS to lower 48 for $12.

I know this is an old thread, but I just boil a pot of water, take it off the stove and dunk the engine, carb, whatever in the hot, HOT water. You engine will free up in less than a minute!

It will works well when you are free up the engine from old dried castor oil. You can use heat gun to free up the engine.