McCoy diesels
 

Anyone still flying their old McCoy diesels?
Top row: McCoy .09, McCoy .049 beam mounted.
Bottom row: McCoy .049 radial mounted diesels.

Sorry for the poor pic.

George

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Hey George.

I still have a couple of .09's and a few of the radial mount .049's.

The McCoy .09 diesel was my favorite .09 of the mid fifties. Before that I used the McCoy .098 glo a lot.

Most of the McCoy .09 diesels simply need a new "O" ring and they're off and running. Neoprene, @ home depot.

You can pull the cylinder muff on the .09 with a strap-wrench or better yet, find an OK Cub .14 cylinder removal tool..fits the McCoy perfectly.

The McCoy .09 came with an "L" shaped needle but it was unbalanced and would rotate out as the engine ran. Replace it with the conventional knurled round button head type.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

George.....I don't know if you're still active, but I've been reading through all the various diesel threads and saw yours on the McCoy's. I acquired a .049 McCoy diesel as a high school boy, and just dug it out of an old box of my goodies. I've been running it, and would like to find an integral rear tank for it. Do you have any ideas as to where I could get one? Thanks, Bill Hanshaw,Fort Worth, Texas

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Dan Vincent here.

The McCoy tank screws were a bit wider than the Wasp, Atwood and Spitfire tanks but the OK Cub .049X and Holland Hornet were a bit wider. I don't know off hand if they will fit into the backplate hole of the McCoy or not.

I do know a McCoy Baby-Mac .049 tank will fit but the Baby-Macs are pretty scarce.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

I have a few McCoy Diesels, although I haven't done anything with them yet.
Adrian Duncan of Model Engine News has a good story about the engines too. http://modelenginenews.org/ad/mccoy_diesels.html

McCoy .09
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g..._engine_01.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g..._engine_02.jpg

McCoy .049 Dura Glow diesel Replica engine. It is a P.A.L. replica of the McCoy .049 Dura Glow model diesel engine from Bob Langelius. I am not sure if he has any more though <cite>www.palmodelproducts.com/engines.html</cite>
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...replica_01.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...replica_02.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...replica_04.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...replica_03.jpg

McCoy .049 Dura Glow engine, not a replica
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...uraGlow_02.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...uraGlow_01.jpg

Comparing the replica to the original
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...Replica_01.jpg

I also have a crankshaft and crankcase for a .049 McCoy engine too. But the crank does have some corrosion damage on it though.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...uraGlow_05.jpg

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Hi Earl... I enjoyed your great pics of your McCoy's. Looking at the red tank on the rear of the original engine, I don't see any evidence of a gasket, at least on the outside. Maybe there's one on the inside, between the tank's inside edge and the outside of the raised crankcase ring. I tried my new "copper wonder" tank this AM, and it leaks either at the tank/engine junction, or at the securing bolt's 0-ring head gasket. I'll work on it.

I'm still having trouble with my MPJet 040 PB that you and I tried to run when we got together at your house. I've done the Clutton idea in his book, about coating the contra with solder, then carving it down to improve its fit. It did improve the fit,but the engine still won't stay running more than a couple of seconds, and then only slowly. I suppose the remaining option is to replace or rebuild the sleeve/piston/contra assembly. As you'll recall, we tried your good-running MPJet's carb and your same fuel on my engine - and that didn't help, so we eliminated a fuel problem. I'll keep you posted on my efforts to get this well-made little engine to run as good as yours! Regards, Bill

RE: McCoy diesels
 

I am not sure they used a gasket on them. If the fit is fairly close the leak would be slight, not enough to be a problem, as the engine would run out of fuel fairly fast when running anyway. I haven't taken it apart yet to clean and lube it for running, so I can't tell if there is a gasket in there or not for the fuel tank.

Yeah sorry, I couldn't see anything wrong with your engine as to why to didn't want to run. Beats me.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Bill,

I am still active and hopefully will remain active until I croak. :D

I do not have spare parts for any of my McCoys, but you might indicate whether you have a radial or beam mount diesel. They made tanks for both (See Dan's pic above for the radial one). I personally do not have rear tanks for my radial mounts because I flew CL even back then, and used external tanks. I do have a tank for the beam mounted one, but again not an extra one. I'm not even sure that tank is an original a McCoy since I bought that engine used.

George

RE: McCoy diesels
 

I need to clear up some misunderstandings on McCoy .09 diesel tanks. The proper tank is diecast with a ridge on the end next to the backplate. The McCoy diesel shown in an above post has an OK Cub red anodised spun aluminum tank.

You will also find them with incorrectly fitted with McCoy .098 glo engine tanks but they are straight, with no ridge.


I have also seen them with Wen-Mac .049 tanks.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Thanks for the information about the McCoy fuel tanks. it ia most interesting too.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Thanks Dan,

As it turns out my .09 diesel has the correct tank but I have two .098's...one with the correct tank, one with an OK Cub red anodized one.

George

RE: McCoy diesels
 

George, now don't get excited when you see the McCoy .098 in this shot.

It has great compression but someone filed off the tank screw boss so I decided to make a McCoy "Redhead" .098.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Hello, George... You can see that I just started a new thread asking if anyone has an extra 049 McCoy (beam mount version) contra piston. Mine sheared in two at the o-ring notch today, and I don't want to make the sweet little runner a closet queen! I've asked David Owen if he has one, or can make one, but hopefully someone has a junker with a good contra still there.
Can you advise me? Thanks, Bill Hanshaw

RE: McCoy diesels
 

William sounds like a very rare incident never heard of any contra shearing, might have a bad hunk of metal to begin with, good luck on your quest for a replacement martin

you were lucky it did not cause any damage to the engine, bits and pieces floating loose can reck havoc

RE: McCoy diesels
 

My first diesel experience came from a beam mounted McCoy .049. When they came out I got both the diesel and glow versions. I had the diesel in a WOWEE flying wing.

Since I had never run a diesel, and did not know anyone who did, this was a learning engine. I ran it way over compressed and as a result, the lower conrod end suffered. As the conrod wore, I had to increase compression to keep it running. When it would no longer run with the compression at maximum setting, I retired the engine.

I was young and did not know about getting parts. My LHS did not stock engine parts so I would have needed to order them.

But I was hooked on diesels.

George

RE: McCoy diesels
 

I just happened on a used McCoy .049 that came to me with almost another complete engine's worth of parts! Included were two <u>stamped</u> aluminum tanks! The spare engine's case was ruined at the intake venturi....looks as though someone tried to extract the pressed-in NV barrell and tore up its hole in the casting. It's missing its NV barrel and crankshaft but other than that it's almost complete.. a nice lot of spares: I thought all I was getting was a runnable McCoy! Now my old (bougrht in '54) engine has a contra again and I may even put in the spare sleeve/piston/con rod/piston - that is if they are in better condition than the existing engine's. A happy situation! Bill

RE: McCoy diesels
 

Dan, For removing my cylinder heads without damaging the anodizing, I made a tool using a 4" - 5" length (non-critical) of old rubber garden hose split up from one end about an inch or so, in four equal spaces. I found an inexpensive adjustable stainless steel pipe clamp that fitted over it. I simply push the hose down over the head (the contra adjust vee slides up one of the slits) and tighten up the clamp to hold the cylinder head with friction. I poked a hole through the hose at the other end and pushed a 4 inch long by 1/4" dia.alum. bar (totally non-critical) for torqueing the hose. It works every time, and not a scratch! Your pic of the metal OK tool is even better, however I'll wager that unless it's very tight, it will scratch the color anodizing if it slips any at all.

Also, I use a little smaller pipe clamp tightened over the sleeve's threads (of course, after removing their cylinder heads by above method), to hold them securely while turning them - with no danger of messing up their nice cylinder head threads. Not needed for D-C sleeves that come out easily.due to their design.

Others have probably already thought of these gimmicks, but they've helped me preserve the delicate exterior of my diesels! FWIW!! Bill

RE: McCoy diesels
 

William,

I agree, it's always a good thing when you don't scratch a cylinder muff. Sounds like you come up with whatever you need.

I like to put "Stuck" engines on a 60 watt light bulb for about 15 minutes to loosen up the gook and then you can give them a shot of Marvel oil to keep them free.

Heat will sometimes loosen a muff too.

RE: McCoy diesels
 

My favourite method of removing muffs is to use a short length of about 1" leather, gripped with a pair of multigrips.

If that doesn't shift it, heat first.

Greg