dallred

Both!

yadac123

if your main blades are too loose from the blade grip they will swing all the way to the end and when you are not careful it will strike the tail boom.

you want to make sure your main blade is SNUGLY attached to the main blade holder. Not too tight and not too loose. when you blades spin up centripital force will align itself.

Andy

Lil Ray

Blades were to lose. Make sure that they are snug not tight. I found that out when i plug in the new motor and it did not spin. everything else worked but the main motor.

oojmak

Is there a way that we can upgrade the main motor so it doesn't keep burning up???!! When I got the Eagle 50, I really liked it! Even thought that I liked it more than my Blade CP, but I'm not sure now![img][/img]

Lil Ray

no, the new one's that they send you to replace the old one doesn't have the sticker on it. I haven't had any problem with them sense I replace it.

yadac123

the new eagle 50 in our next shipment will have the sticker removed. I want to thank all members of RCU for pointing this out.

Andy

outofbalance

could not get the thing to fly without almost full throttle. Took a good look at the set up and realized the fly bar blades were set the wrong way. In fact as the main blades were trying to fly,,, the fly bar blades were trying to set it back down. Anyway I set them up the right way (thought out of the box was supposed to mean it was able to fly out of the box) and,, well to my surprise gave it the same amount of throttle and the thing took off like a rocket! straight up about 150 ft, ran into a tree, broke the tail gear, hit the roof of the house, bounced off and headed for a power pole,, hit the transformer,,, and headed straight for the neighbors truck. Thank the good lord miss the truck about 4 ft and that was about it. Broke the skids, tail blade, and one main blade. Not bad for such a crash and burn. Word to the wise,,,, check the Eagle 50 out before ever trying to fly the thing. Don't think ready to fly out of the box really means it. Cost me a bunch.

RobBeach

Welcome to RCUniverse.

Ahhh.... so you now have had your first lesson in flying helicopters.

You might try RADD's school of flight (don't cost nuttin')
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/pre-Flight.html

and of course...

on You Tube
Tutorial 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFMYaIjqIWg
Tutorial 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeAmsecIbPo
Tutorial 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLP_jGEmkn4

outofbalance

Thank you for the links. I will take the time and cover all of them before this happens again.

muscat69

Just wondering if the main motor from E-Flight cp would work on Eagle 50? they have the same amount of teeth on the drive gear.I know the plugin is different but they could be rewired.Does anyone know the difference? Thanks.

reece-x

My Feedback: (1)

I just got a eagle 50. I read the manual i've gotten mad information on these and other forums but no information on the problem i'm having. When I first turned on the transmitter then plugged the battery into the helicopter the gyro iniciated and the transmitter was communicating just about fine. it did everthing in pre flight except spin the blades. So i charged the battery to full then when I did everything all over again it did nothing. The reciever light just blinks slow. I checked the crystals and kept repeating but it must be somthing im missing. Can anyone help?[]

Lil Ray

did you change any settings?

reece-x

My Feedback: (1)

I didn't touch anything

reece-x

My Feedback: (1)

I didn't touch anything

muscat69

Make sure the throttle lever is all the waw to the bottom(off and your trim is all the way off as well.My light don't flash when active. Gary

reece-x

My Feedback: (1)

Ill give it a try thanks

muscat69

Also make sure the batteries in the receiver are not dead or low.Mine went too low and wouldn't work . My receiver light just flashed.

Gary

muscat69

These Eagle 50's are a lot of fun but it takes a lot of time to learn how to fly them.It's been about a month for me and I now can hover pretty good.If the blades hit anything they break really easy .If they do hit make sure to stop the motor (asap) the motor burns out easily if motor can't turn.

hope you get it spinning , Gary

yadac123

I'm glad that you made it thru your first step. Congrats

Andy

outofbalance

Anyone know if these motors are lasting more than 20min? Could not believe it burned out this fast!http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/micons/m13.gif
http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/micons/m13.gif

Also I did find out that if I take a can of Krylon Fusion plastic Paint and give the main blades a few fine coats of this stuff it will make the blades 10 times stronger. Was having a good time until the motor burned up. Any ideas how to get more time out of a motor?

muscat69

Can anyone tell me where to buy the plastic blades for my Eagle 50 heli? Are they the same as the e-flight blade cppro? anyone

muscat69

Thanks Andy,
Except for the motors and a few blades it's been a lot of fun.How about a metal upgrade are they worth putting on the Eagle 50? I did break one of the little balls the first day.Where's the best place to get a metal upgrade?


Gary

Empty Wallet

Yeah. Dittos on muscats question. The whole plastic head assembly is getting sloppy on mine. Its so bad that the heli is becoming very unpredictable. Getting tired of dumping money into this thing. Every time I go flying with it anymore something else breaks. Im thinking it might be time to junk it and move up to something better. Any suggestions?

RobBeach

muscat69: Metal Head.

I put one on yesterday just for fun. It is tighter and seemed a little bit smoother.
The metal head I put on was ordered from Hong Kong... and was fairly inexpensive.
BUT BE WARNED.... you have a bunch of tiny little screws with the ball links on every
link and the swash plate. Silly me I didn't think to tighten them all down and on first
spin up (luckily on the workbench) one of the screws on a ball link came undone.
I was lucky that I found both the ball link and the tiny little screw... but it would
have been very difficult to replace either part.
The blade holders are wider than the blades so the blades don't fit snuggly and I will have to add
a spacer so the blades sit properly.
It is a lot easier to replace a ball link
on a plastic part with a LOSBI 51 brass ball link at 50cents a pop. And they are strong.
My metal head also came with the holes in the fly bar head (the piece that the little pins in the t-block slide into) drilled off center and I had to re drill them for proper fit.
If you do get a metal head, I would strongly suggest you remove ever little screw in the complete unit and super glue them back in or at least use Lock Tite.
I have four metal head assemblies... one I just put in as mentioned (and took out).
Two have the ball links with tiny screws (two pieces, screw and ball), the other two have ball links with that are one piece and screwed in with allen heads... these two look to be made better.

I flew it a couple of times yesterday.... and put the plastic head assembly back in and I'm just happy with the plastic.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Empty Wallet:
Haven't heard from you in awhile... those mailboxes still holding up ?
Flying in dead air makes all the difference in the world. Sometimes there can be layers of cold and warm air close to the ground that will make you think what in the world is going on.

Have you tried desensitizing the servos... the arms that come out of the servos have three hole positions... moving the connecting link in will desensitize the movements making it easier to fly.
You will still have plenty of control. The trick to putting those tiny little brass pins back in is make the hole in the servo arm, just a tiny bit bigger so the pin goes through link, and through the servo arm, and then snuggly back into the other side of the link arm.

If your plastic head is getting sloppy... 1.) are the links with the holes.. on the balls or the shaft ? If they are on the shafts they will be sloppy.
The links with the holes the holes get bigger after awhile and make it sloppy.
Replace the balls with LOSBI 51 brass balls... and or replace all the links.

Don't get me wrong... but I think the problem is the learning to fly part...
You will have less darting around (easier) flying with a bigger helicopter... but that won't help you if you can't fly nose in or left to right in front of you... and your parts bill will be a lot higher.
Try desensitizing the servos as mentioned above.... see how that works out for you.
Also....
Try turning down the knob on the top left (PLT).
And turn the knob on the top right up a little (PIT).
This will make the helicopter less likely to jump off the ground and act more like a fixed pitch helicopter which I think also makes it easier to learn. Don't turn up the pitch too much because you do want the blades to spin up at a fast rate... too much pitch and the blades, motor, will bog down.

Best wishes. Flying these things ain't easy... but one day you will say...
"I can't believe I had so much trouble back then...."

muscat69

I used the losi balls to replace the plastic ones that broke off .they are solid.. they were.50 cents each. not a bad fix. will they fit on the flybar link at the top? those broke on my sons eagle 50. He ordered a new flybar link.My large gear where it attaches to the metal shaft stripped out the set screw yesterday. i ordered a new patch for it .I might be able to drill it out and pin it I don't know yet. I'll try to fix it.