Direct Connection F-18 available again!
01-08-2005, 12:24 PM
#1
Direct Connection F-18 available again!
Has anyone had experience with the direct connection F-18? A new company Juno R/C has just re-released it. And the kits only $97 shipped from there website. Sounds like a good deal just wondering what has been people experience with this kit, is it easy to build, fly good?? Here's the link.
http://www.junorc.com/e-commerce-sol....0.html.0.html
http://www.junorc.com/e-commerce-sol....0.html.0.html
01-08-2005, 12:35 PM
#2
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
Last month I picked up one of the Tsunami kits from Juno RC. Haven't started it yet, but the wood quality and parts cutting is excellent. The Tsunami kit is also a remanufacture of a Direct Connection kit, so much so that it uses the original DC instructions with a one page addendum of corrections. I look forward to starting it as soon as I finish covering my current project.
Derek at Juno was excellent on customer service.
Derek at Juno was excellent on customer service.
01-09-2005, 11:07 AM
#3
RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
A few years ago we had a few of the DC F-18's here. The guy who is a very good builder, built two of them. The first one for himself. He had a Jett .90 and spring airs in the plane. With the gear in the bellyand so narrow, it was a takeoff nightmare. At that time another guy saw the plane and wanted one, so he paid him to build another. It was the same setup but this time he installed the spring airs in the wings. Looked a bit strange on the ground but handled much better. They did fly very well
01-10-2005, 10:05 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
I built one of the F-18's for someone years ago. Flew great... had a ST-75 in the nose, Rhomair gear.
I have a kit of one still in the box.
Definately not a trainer..... keep the linkages tight.
Ground handling..... as Snoop noted...... be smooth. Its a narrow track, and the gear wires are a bit long. It can do some weird things.
Nice to see them back in production.
I have a kit of one still in the box.
Definately not a trainer..... keep the linkages tight.
Ground handling..... as Snoop noted...... be smooth. Its a narrow track, and the gear wires are a bit long. It can do some weird things.
Nice to see them back in production.
01-11-2005, 12:35 PM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
I built the DC F-18 about 5 years ago and the only thing that I would do would be to leave out functional rudders. they were probably the biggest pain to install and hook up perfectly. I would do the same thing for the F-14 from GP too.
02-10-2006, 11:30 PM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
Looks like this is a real old post but i have been looking for current feedback or info for a month or so now on this kit with no luck. had a post awhile back that i can no longer find.
anyway been working hard at building this kit and it is getting close to completion. i made many mods to mine. first i am using Robart Pnuemantic retract, tank mounted in back of F6 on right side of fuse (adds 1.1 oz to that side)due to limited space to mount a tank. i hate torque rod set ups so i went with the modification of one servo for each of the rear control surfaces, 2 for elevator contected with a Reverse Y and 2 for the rudders. torque and precision will not be a problem. i had to build access doors for the rudders but no big deal. next i went along with the plans for individual aileron servos but i also am putting individual flap servos. these will be accessed utilizing wing contoured panels with the servos mounted sideways like on the Hangar 9 P 51 and such. glassed the center wing portion and reinforced it with carbon fibers for additional strengh. mounted the thottle servo in front of F5, just ahead of wing saddle, under canopy. also mounted nose wheel stearing servo adjacent into same location. both of these will be accessed via the nose wheel retract cover.
more later........
anyway been working hard at building this kit and it is getting close to completion. i made many mods to mine. first i am using Robart Pnuemantic retract, tank mounted in back of F6 on right side of fuse (adds 1.1 oz to that side)due to limited space to mount a tank. i hate torque rod set ups so i went with the modification of one servo for each of the rear control surfaces, 2 for elevator contected with a Reverse Y and 2 for the rudders. torque and precision will not be a problem. i had to build access doors for the rudders but no big deal. next i went along with the plans for individual aileron servos but i also am putting individual flap servos. these will be accessed utilizing wing contoured panels with the servos mounted sideways like on the Hangar 9 P 51 and such. glassed the center wing portion and reinforced it with carbon fibers for additional strengh. mounted the thottle servo in front of F5, just ahead of wing saddle, under canopy. also mounted nose wheel stearing servo adjacent into same location. both of these will be accessed via the nose wheel retract cover.
more later........
02-11-2006, 03:37 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
cool, some one does read this thread. pics to follow.
....... i plan on putting the pneumatic valve and mini serv in the center fusalage section along with the reciever. again its going to be a tight sqeeze but i believe it will fit. i also built an access door in the rear fuslage for the battery to be placed. going to use a 2400 miliamp that should be able to run all the servos. my power plant will be a Jett 90L but after waiting 3 weeks after ordering it online i called Jett only to find out that they are on back order awaiting the crank cases to be cast. looks like another 6 weeks until i can even think about placeing the engine in the compartment provided in the plans. again real tight. this is supposed to be the engine of choice for this plane and saved all year to get one so i can wait. back to the retracts. they seem to be real tricky getting them lined up along the CG and at the correct angle when they pop out. took 3 trys to get it right but the pneumatics make it easier. going to utilize 3/8" robo-struts instead of the usual wire gear. figure it will look cooler and provide a little more stability on departure roll (dont want it to get squirly like above).
In general the kit is really cool to build. lots and lots of sanding, strong wood, elaborate plans with plenty of helpfull detail, but planning is a must with this one. anyway thats it for now. PIX will follow soon.
....... i plan on putting the pneumatic valve and mini serv in the center fusalage section along with the reciever. again its going to be a tight sqeeze but i believe it will fit. i also built an access door in the rear fuslage for the battery to be placed. going to use a 2400 miliamp that should be able to run all the servos. my power plant will be a Jett 90L but after waiting 3 weeks after ordering it online i called Jett only to find out that they are on back order awaiting the crank cases to be cast. looks like another 6 weeks until i can even think about placeing the engine in the compartment provided in the plans. again real tight. this is supposed to be the engine of choice for this plane and saved all year to get one so i can wait. back to the retracts. they seem to be real tricky getting them lined up along the CG and at the correct angle when they pop out. took 3 trys to get it right but the pneumatics make it easier. going to utilize 3/8" robo-struts instead of the usual wire gear. figure it will look cooler and provide a little more stability on departure roll (dont want it to get squirly like above).
In general the kit is really cool to build. lots and lots of sanding, strong wood, elaborate plans with plenty of helpfull detail, but planning is a must with this one. anyway thats it for now. PIX will follow soon.
02-12-2006, 11:36 PM
#16
RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
Anyone got CG and control throw information? I just re-engine mine form a YS 61 logn Stroke to an O.S. 91 and changed to a newer Radio system and can't find the insturction manual.
Turbulence
[email protected]
Turbulence
[email protected]
02-13-2006, 08:40 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
If not avaiable quick here, email Dereck down at Juno and he can help you out. [email protected]
BTW... above mentioned in the thread here was the F-20 kit. Juno does have them in production now. Real nice kit.
Bob
BTW... above mentioned in the thread here was the F-20 kit. Juno does have them in production now. Real nice kit.
Bob
02-13-2006, 09:34 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
instruction manual says,
"the balance point is shown on the plans and is approximately 7-5/8" back from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. the plane should be balanced right side up on the balancer. .... DO NOT BALANCE THE MODEL BEHIND THE MODEL BEHIND THE CG ON THE PLANS. DOING SO WILL MAKE THE MODEL DIFFICULT AND UNSAFE TO FLY.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
ailerons: 1/4 - 3/8up, 1/4 - 3/8 down
elevator: 1/4 -3/8up, 1/4 -3/8 down
rudder: 1/2 - 3/4left, 1/2 -3/4right
optional flaps 1/2 down.
cant remember how to post pix here, dag nab it
"the balance point is shown on the plans and is approximately 7-5/8" back from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. the plane should be balanced right side up on the balancer. .... DO NOT BALANCE THE MODEL BEHIND THE MODEL BEHIND THE CG ON THE PLANS. DOING SO WILL MAKE THE MODEL DIFFICULT AND UNSAFE TO FLY.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
ailerons: 1/4 - 3/8up, 1/4 - 3/8 down
elevator: 1/4 -3/8up, 1/4 -3/8 down
rudder: 1/2 - 3/4left, 1/2 -3/4right
optional flaps 1/2 down.
cant remember how to post pix here, dag nab it
02-13-2006, 09:48 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
[img][/img]
ORIGINAL: frikinstik
instruction manual says,
"the balance point is shown on the plans and is approximately 7-5/8" back from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. the plane should be balanced right side up on the balancer. .... DO NOT BALANCE THE MODEL BEHIND THE MODEL BEHIND THE CG ON THE PLANS. DOING SO WILL MAKE THE MODEL DIFFICULT AND UNSAFE TO FLY.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
ailerons: 1/4 - 3/8up, 1/4 - 3/8 down
elevator: 1/4 -3/8up, 1/4 -3/8 down
rudder: 1/2 - 3/4left, 1/2 -3/4right
optional flaps 1/2 down.
cant remember how to post pix here, dag nab it
instruction manual says,
"the balance point is shown on the plans and is approximately 7-5/8" back from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. the plane should be balanced right side up on the balancer. .... DO NOT BALANCE THE MODEL BEHIND THE MODEL BEHIND THE CG ON THE PLANS. DOING SO WILL MAKE THE MODEL DIFFICULT AND UNSAFE TO FLY.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
ailerons: 1/4 - 3/8up, 1/4 - 3/8 down
elevator: 1/4 -3/8up, 1/4 -3/8 down
rudder: 1/2 - 3/4left, 1/2 -3/4right
optional flaps 1/2 down.
cant remember how to post pix here, dag nab it
02-21-2006, 03:40 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
Hi stick,
Shes looking great, I see in your pics your installing air, this is for the gear, what about G doors? also had any thoughts about flaps...
Please keep the pics coming!
Antony.
Shes looking great, I see in your pics your installing air, this is for the gear, what about G doors? also had any thoughts about flaps...
Please keep the pics coming!
Antony.
02-24-2006, 04:58 AM
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RE: Direct Connection F-18 available again!
finally more time to post something,
been working everyday trying to get it ready for the Jett engine that is enroute this week. got the retract system pre-installed and cycled to see how they would work with the new variable rate valve robart has. pretty cool. nice and slow up and down with positive locks in both directions. i forgot to post the way i mounted the valve and micro servo but again pretty tight squeeze. i did find another problem that might occur with others working on this kit. the mounting bolts in the front of the wing (2) are about an inch too short. i did glass the center of the wing which might account for this. i noticed the problem when using the bolt with the washer, and it wouldnt bite into the blind nut. i had to tear off a portion of the turtle deck and see if the blind nut that i epoxied on had worked loose. nope, still there. i then mounted the wing without the washer and it captured the blind nut but not enough threads for safety. i measured the depth of the fuse and wing and they matched to the plans so i went to ACE hardware to see if they had anything larger than a 4 inch bolt. nope. BUT they did have ALL THREAD, which is an equivelant to a long screw with open ends. so i got 2 one foot lengths some nuts and wing nuts to make my own to a nice length. the wing nuts will be much easier than using the original philips bolts that came with it. problem solved.
cant wait to get my engine. i am anxious to see if it will fit like BOB27 recommended. figure it will but its going to be tight. again. also this will give me a much better idea of how it is going to balance out, once i get some weight in the nose. also ordered a true-turn spinner for it. im going to try one of their new anodized ones to see what it looks like.
this is my first pnuematic retract system and so far i like it alot. dont know much about the specks though. like how much psi do i need to put in the tank, what is too low and too high, what shouldnt i do when hooking up the airlines and what to do, what are the average number of cycles i can get per so many psi, should i leave air in the system after flying or purge it. any feed back on pnuematics would be appreciated.
when i came to cutting out the slots for the mains, i found that using a sheet of extra balsa as a template useful. took quite a while cutting a little at a time, checking gear up and down though the balsa template and so on. after that i transfered the template onto the access door using the full up gear position clearance needed which i marked on the sides of the fuse and on the bottom of the intake which then formed a square. from there i used a drill to make a hole and slowly dremmeled the clearance i needed. cycled the gear with everything in place and it worked like a charm.
also cut out the access doors that were located on the plans. this was easy and the directions are right on.
when i mounted the intake inside bottom sheet i did it in 2 sections and still couldnt get it to fully reach down in the recess where intake 1 meets the fuse side. did the best i could and then squared it off and mounted a 3/4 inch triangle stock to the front gear hatch and sanded to match. problem solved. i guess if you go with fixed gear, going with the plans would be the best option since you could glue right onto the bottom to the fuse if needed. i had to make room so i could get the hatch on and off so this way it worked for me.
almost done now. more pics to follow.
been working everyday trying to get it ready for the Jett engine that is enroute this week. got the retract system pre-installed and cycled to see how they would work with the new variable rate valve robart has. pretty cool. nice and slow up and down with positive locks in both directions. i forgot to post the way i mounted the valve and micro servo but again pretty tight squeeze. i did find another problem that might occur with others working on this kit. the mounting bolts in the front of the wing (2) are about an inch too short. i did glass the center of the wing which might account for this. i noticed the problem when using the bolt with the washer, and it wouldnt bite into the blind nut. i had to tear off a portion of the turtle deck and see if the blind nut that i epoxied on had worked loose. nope, still there. i then mounted the wing without the washer and it captured the blind nut but not enough threads for safety. i measured the depth of the fuse and wing and they matched to the plans so i went to ACE hardware to see if they had anything larger than a 4 inch bolt. nope. BUT they did have ALL THREAD, which is an equivelant to a long screw with open ends. so i got 2 one foot lengths some nuts and wing nuts to make my own to a nice length. the wing nuts will be much easier than using the original philips bolts that came with it. problem solved.
cant wait to get my engine. i am anxious to see if it will fit like BOB27 recommended. figure it will but its going to be tight. again. also this will give me a much better idea of how it is going to balance out, once i get some weight in the nose. also ordered a true-turn spinner for it. im going to try one of their new anodized ones to see what it looks like.
this is my first pnuematic retract system and so far i like it alot. dont know much about the specks though. like how much psi do i need to put in the tank, what is too low and too high, what shouldnt i do when hooking up the airlines and what to do, what are the average number of cycles i can get per so many psi, should i leave air in the system after flying or purge it. any feed back on pnuematics would be appreciated.
when i came to cutting out the slots for the mains, i found that using a sheet of extra balsa as a template useful. took quite a while cutting a little at a time, checking gear up and down though the balsa template and so on. after that i transfered the template onto the access door using the full up gear position clearance needed which i marked on the sides of the fuse and on the bottom of the intake which then formed a square. from there i used a drill to make a hole and slowly dremmeled the clearance i needed. cycled the gear with everything in place and it worked like a charm.
also cut out the access doors that were located on the plans. this was easy and the directions are right on.
when i mounted the intake inside bottom sheet i did it in 2 sections and still couldnt get it to fully reach down in the recess where intake 1 meets the fuse side. did the best i could and then squared it off and mounted a 3/4 inch triangle stock to the front gear hatch and sanded to match. problem solved. i guess if you go with fixed gear, going with the plans would be the best option since you could glue right onto the bottom to the fuse if needed. i had to make room so i could get the hatch on and off so this way it worked for me.
almost done now. more pics to follow.