skull1971

Oh I'm sure this is a rehash, but I'm kinda new around here, so I have the question of what fuel are you running? what %? and why?

I saw where Flyboy Dave said something about not pouring that green stuff on ants. Why?

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

....no, I said the "green stuff" was great for pouring on ants.

FBD.

crasharama

I buy all the base ingredients & make my own, works out half the price here than to buy pre-made.

Flying freak

I use power master sport it has a 15% nitor and 18%oil i use it because that is the only gas in my local area that is sutabale foor 2 stroke eng.

r-c-guy

My Feedback: (37)

Hi,

I use Omega 15% and add 2 oz castor per gallon. That brings the oil to nearly 20% (it's 17% according to Morgan fuels web page). I use the extra oil since most of us push the engines to a higher than normal rpm. Also, I am running fan engines with a prop which I think is tougher on the bearings than a well balanced fan.

randy

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

1. 15% Omega,
2. Cuz
3.

I also ad caster to mine to bring it up to 20%oil

cncswiss1

same here... works great... just bring lots of windex and rags...
except for my rossi and I run it on omega 5% and extra castor

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Straight PowerMaster 15%, it is used at Nearly Every racing event across the country.

Good stuff.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

That's what I use, exclusively....except for 5% PowerMaster in the Rossi.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

What's in your 15% fuel?

Unfortunately some fuel suppliers are not entirely honest in their fuel formulations. While Powermaster provides a true 15% nitro by volume others mix their fuels by weight. So since nitro and oil both weigh more than methanol, you end up with a fuel that has a lower nitro and oil content.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I know Byron does, but who else falls under this category?

skull1971

So,,,,, since I use the "Green stuff" I may be at a dissadvantage? Hold on to your pacemakers, I run Cool Power 15% in everything, 3 Rossi's, 4 saito's, and 2 Os's. Well at least I'm not like most people here in the Houston area, who use Rich's Brew, it's made locally and really cheap, $8-$11 a gallon. [:'(]

rcflyer1970

My Feedback: (212)

I run Cool Power 15% in all my enginges, (all 2 strokes) some with lots of running on them they still look and run like new no stains, no dead sticks, but I try not to go on the lean side. A guy at the field told me what I should run but he's the dead stick king, so I will stick with what works for me.

skull1971

Is Powermaster a full synthetic, or is it a blend? Or do you get a choice?

the only thing I know about it, its' $5-$8 more per gallon.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Powermaster makes at least 37 different glow fuels. From zero nitro to 60%, from all caster to all synthetic in ranges from 5% to 23%. The 15% fuel that Dave was referring to has 18% oil that is 1/3rd caster.

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I've used both Rich's Brew and Omega 15% and they are both fine also. We raced with Omega up here for years and it ran very similar to the PowerMaster, we used Rich's Brew at a race in Houston last year and that worked fine also. I prefer a little castor in my fuel, rather than pure synthetic, and thats why I avoid the Green Stuff.

TIA

I use Powermaster 25% because I get a few more rpms out of it. My engine prolly won't last long if I keep pushing it though. But hey, its racing. Get a new motor every year right?

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Nitro doesn't hurt the motor, even 60%. Lean runs hurt the motor and it doesn't matter what the nitro content is (though things do happen faster with high nitro).

I'd like to comment on the fuels that @@@@@ mentioned, but don't want to be sued or flamed. But of the brands mentioned so far, one was mixed by weight percentage in the past. The fuel market is pretty competitive and all use about the same ingredients, so if one is a lot cheaper than another, then I would be very leery of what is in it. Price out the nitro, oils and methanol and see where the cost is.

Wild Foamy

would 16% Tornado work in a OS 25LA? (its model car fuel, my bro runs it in his Tmaxx) or 25% Byron?

im not sure if you get these in america, but would be handy to know (tornado is only 8% blended oil but byron is 11% blended and Byron is better in my HPI savage) so what for the OS 25?

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

There is nothing wrong with Cool Power. Morgan makes some good products.

The difference is, for a number of us, it is standard practice to ensure that our fuel contains some amount of castor oil, especially when dealing with ABC/AAC/ABCC/AlmostBC type construction engines. Castor oil provides a level of protection, simply unmatched, should you encounter that one fight where the engine goes lean for a few seconds.

Morgans Omega and Powermaster are outstanding. Powermaster is great. I use both of those without reservation.

Should the occation arrise where coolpower was the only fuel available (or if it is provided at a race), I have no problem running it.

Rich's synth/castor blend is good. Byrons fuel is ok, but I recommend the version that has 20% oil (they have a version with 16%)

Not many fuels on the market that can be 'bad'. Just understand what you are putting in your engine.

I too typically run 15% nitro in everything - simply since it is pretty much all I keep on hand. I prefer fuel with at least 18% oil content. Omega may be the exception to that rule - but I know exactly what I am getting there, and comfortable with it.

High Plains noted something important there - Nitro does not hurt engines, or wear out engines. Lean runs kill engines... and an aside of that is the oil/castor oil noted above to provide proper protection on moving parts (some oils do not mix well with high-nitro content).

Nitro and Oil are the expensive parts of fuel. Keep that in mind. If fuel is less expensive, usually it means that someone put less of one or the other in the bottle. Use your head. Others have noted the methods sometimes used to determine "percentage", so I wont go there.

Bob

jaka

Hi!
Over here in Sweden (and the rest of Europe ) it's very common to use 10-15% all synthetic oil. very few use Castor oil anymore over here.
I blend my own fuel, have done since I started 31 years ago, then you get the what you want.
Nowadays I mostly run 15% Motul "Micro" allsyntetic oil and 5% nitro in all my engines, be it plane bearing or ball bearing.
In my Q-500 racers I use 20% castor oil and the rest methanol (only because the rules say so).
Used Rich's brew when over in the States in -95, worked fine.

Regards!
Jan K

kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

I recently started adding BP brand turbine oil (2 oz to gallon) to Powermaster fuel and get poor rough running on my motors after 2-3 weeks of mixing it in. The fuel turns into a dark color too. Anyone with similar experience with turbine oil addition to Powermaster fuel?

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Turbine oil is designed to mix with petrolium fuels - gasoline, diesel, kero, jetA, JP-8

My guess is it does not mix well with alcohol fuels. Just a guess, but based on some experience that most lubricants for gas/kero typically are known to be unsuitable for direct mixing with alcohol fuels.

Also, some teflon and silicon compounds/additives will prevent or disrupt the catalitic 'function' of the fuel and glow plug. (such as for folks adding a bit too much Armorall to their fuel trying to prevent fuel foam). Im not 100% sure what is in Aeroshell turbine or similar products, but this may lend another explaination.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

As Bob27 suggested, turbine oils typically contain anti-foam agents; due to the conditions in turbine operation air bubbles can destroy the efficacy of the lubricant. These anti-foams are normally silicone compounds, which are death to catalytic glow plug elements, but otherwise are extremely effective and reasonable cost - no reason not to use them except where the chemistry is harmful to some other component in the system. It makes perfect sense to me that after 2-3 weeks of running the element would be degraded to the point where the engine suffers. Exactly like the Armor-all situation Bob27 mentioned.

Could be that congealed sludge is also playing a role (how are those fuel passages looking?), but of course the acid test is (as usual) to replace the plug and observe the result.

I am wondering what benefit adding turbine oil to the fuel was supposed to have? Just because it is good for turbines does not mean it is good for reciprocating engines. Yes, I know, it was an attempt to improve the oil content and I can imainge one would figure that if it is effective in turbines, it can't hurt our slower spinning glow engines. But it pays to know a bit about the chemistry of the lubricants you should be using in your engines, there are many, many types of lubricant in this world.

In general, modern glow fuels contain pretty much everything you need, with the possible exception of additional castor or synthetic to modify the oil package for a particular job. Compatible anti-foams and corrosion inhibitors are normally already part of the brew.

Note too that silicone compounds are equally harmful to automotive O2 sensors so Armor All down your intake, or in your gas tank is not doing you much of a favor.. just in case the idea pops up sometime.

MJD