Spuetz

Hello Abras,

yes that is the one. and no, motor not included. But the model is prepared for electric power. Most important: The battery hatch in the front... Should be a great help

Abras

My Feedback: (1)

The battery hatch is great for sure!

But since Kyosho America didn't pronounce anything, I will continue on mine.

More info about the motor:
http://bazaritalia.com/product_info....oducts_id=1409

It can only goes 5S, so I can't use it and I think the 4120/18 would give me more top speed.

MarkF

To change the pitch of a prop you need a heat gun and pitch gage. I heat up one of the blades and bend it and hold it till it cools. Check pitch with the pitch gage. It takes a little practice. For the 14 x 14 I started with a 14 x 12 and pitched it up. For the 13 x 15 I started with a 13 x 10 prop. I only use apc electric props when I do this.

Mark

still4given

Do any of you guys know if Kyosho sells parts for these? The one I bought on ebay was boxed very poorly and the fuse is a bit crushed behind the canopy. I'm hoping I can buy a new fuse.

Thanks, Terry

MarkF

You can buy parts from kyosho america.
Mark

sskianpour

My Feedback: (2)

Does anybody know if I could drop a OS 91 FX with Pitts Style muffler in there. I know I would probably have to cut the cowl "a bit" but are we talking "Waaaaaaaaaaaaay" too much engine or just "way" too much? I live at 6000 feet up in Colorado so I lose about 25-30% power with gas...help...?

MarkF

I would say your engine is about right. Not even 1 way to much. People are running 110s in this plane.
Go for it.

Mark

ClemenTang

Can anyone help me decide? Engines I have lying around:
Magnum 75 2 stroke
Enya 80X 2 stroke
TT 90 4 stroke
ASP 108 2 stroke

Props: APC 11x11, 11x12, 11x13, 11x14

worried about the structure, tho.

Clement

Spuetz

Finally!
I maidened the Kelly today. Actually it wasn't the real maiden flight, cause I had flown it once before. But then I still had the original exhaust on. But it was too loud (82 dB in 75 feet distance is the maximum we can do here in Germany). So I put a larger prop on and the Jett engine wouldn't reach resonance speed. I did not consider that the maiden flight, although technically speaking it was...

On that first flight I had a bad landing. The landing gear was still at its orignal position - wich is too far back. And on touch down, which was actually very smooth, the landing gear boots got caught in our grass airstrip and the plane flipped over forcefully. Result: both landing gears bent back and the fairings poked holes clean through the wings. Nasty. So my recomendation: Do bend the landing gear forward as far as possible without aft tips of the fairings touching ground when you want to fly it off a grass strip. The steel is just too weak and it will bend backwards, damaging the wing...

In order to come down with the noise I installed a Mac-pipe that Dub Jett had tuned for me - but at much lower rpms. Now it turns an 11x7 prop at only 13000 rpm. (17000 with the original exhaust and a 10x7). Still it goes quite fast and it looks much better than with the original bulky exhaust. Brings the heart rate up anyway.. Next I will try a 10x10 on that set-up.. That should get me into the 140 mph-range.

The plane flies beautifully. I still have to work on down thrust and side thrust... But once it is trimmed, it flies like on rails. No wagging of tail, just smooth and fast. I haven't dared to dive it with the throttle full open yet. I am a bit concerend with the wings. I whish Kyosho would make all glass-fibre wings as a tuning option. I would buy them!

I always take the first pictures of a new plane only after its first flight - superstition.. So here they are

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

I am pleased to see the long-pipe setup worked out well for you. Nice job on the install.

Bob

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

BTW...

what fuel are you using?

The setup was originally done with an 11x8, so it will be interesting to see how that 10x10 works - should be very close.

Spuetz

Hello Bob,

I am using 15% nitro, 6% Castor, 9% synthetic Oil and the 70% methanol.

Well, I haven't tried it yet with the 10x10. but I figure it should require roughly the same power at the same rpm. if not, lower. That would mean that I would have to shorten the pipe. And since the exhaust manifold is quite long, there is room to shorten it. Would bring the c/g forward as well, and I could take the ounce of lead out again that I have in the nose. What do you think?

BTW: We were flying all day today. The engine runs really well! Sweet sound, too! My 9 year old son flew it today. Very well, I must say! Very smooth landings, great handling...

Thanks for your support!

Martin

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

correction... with more load, you want a longer pipe (lower rpm)

my guess is the pipe is just a bit long for your current prop. Reason I say that is that Dub tested the engine with an 11x8 and it hit around 13K rpm too. So it is sort of running on the governor.

The 10x10 tends to load somewhere like an 11x7 on the ground and like an 11x8 in flight. So it should match up ok.

Bob

Spuetz

Hi Bob,
no, I meant lower power needed. So I thought that a 10x10 will put less load on the engine than a 11x8. That's why I thought that I might have to shorten the pipe.

I have flown the Kelly with a 10x7 (cause I didn't have a 10x8...) and the engine went fine.

I'll try it with a 10x10 tomorrow... I'll let you know...

Cheers, Martin

Spuetz

Hello Bob and everyone.

10x10 works fine! 13,500 rpm. I just can't tell if the Kelly actually got any faster. Don't know if it is because of my grown need for speed - getting cocky after successful maiden flights and confidence in the plane.. I must try and get a speed gun...

Today for the first time I had a situation, where my son was on the trainer lead and when the engine lost power (loose glow plug) I handed it over to him, saying: "come on, you land it. You do it better". Can you believe this? I handed the fast plane over to my 9 year old son, cause I got insecure! So he's got me...

Cheers, Martin

Abras

My Feedback: (1)

That's great Martin.
Inside you did love it, didn't you?

Spuetz

totally!

andreg00

I ordered a Kelly and a Jett SJ .60LX High Performance engine. Will this be a good combination ?

Thanks

Spuetz

Hello Andreg00

Yes it will! have you read the thread so far? I have talked about this particular Jett Engine quite a bit .
Increase the side thrust, though! The one built into the model is not enough. Built in down thrust is ok.
Put it in at exactly 90 degrees, (not slanted down as per instructions). it will fit nicely under the cowl with muffler next to the chin air intake and will give you the possibility for a nicely shaped cut out. (see picture)

And if noise is not a problem... go for 18000 rpm and you are rocking.
Do get the appropriate spacers for the muffler from Bob and/or Dub. I fixed mine with threaded rod (scews too short) and nuts on top. Need to make some cone-shaped spacers on top, cause the nuts will not fit otherwise.. Last spacer machined at an angle

Despite all doubts the ribbed and covered wings have held up fine so far. Only flaw (with all kyosho models): the covering! I don't know what they use but it is not oracover! The deco-strips on the wings started to peel off after first flight. So now I have sticky tape here and there to keep them down. Doesn't make it look more beautiful.´

Ah and do bend the landing gear foreward! (read above...)

Another topic: c of g. Don't believe the instructions here! the C/G in my Kelly is at 75 mm (3 inch) from leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. And I have the feeling it could be even further back just a little bit. Makes here come around the turns much quicker. And she really sticks to the ground once touched down. My son performed a couple of two wheel landings (big landing philosophy discussion between my son and me. ) and it went very well.

Let me know if you need to know anything else...
Cheers, Martin

andreg00

Thank you very much Martin. I will certainly come back for a few questions when building it.

Regars,

Andre

Razor-RCU

My Feedback: (50)

How do you get to the glow plug?

Looks awesome though!!

andreg00

Which hinges do you recomend using ?

Spuetz

Hello Razor-RCU and Andreg00,
I used the provided hinges. A lot of folks like pinned hinges better, but frankly I do like the textile ones a lot. They are definitely play-free. Just have to install them in the right way.
Here's what I do: I drill a small hole (1,5mm) right in the middle of the slot where the hinge will go both in the wing and the aileron (tail respectively) Then I put the hinge in. Now I use a thin tip on my CA bottle (made from heat-drawn-out tube). Now I stick that tip into the hole and put CA in right from back to front. (make sense?). This way the whole hinge will be soaked with CA. Obviously you put the hinges into one side first, let cure and then put the control surface on. Here same procedure. push togther tight and deflect all the way that you want it to be able to deflect later. Now, while pushing against the wing (tail surfaces) and holding it deflected put CA in to the back of the hole with the fine tip just the same way. Will hold forever!!

As for the glow plug:
If I need to get to it, I just take the 4 cowling screws out and pull the cowling over a bit. Then I can use a small wrench to get it out. A bit tricky, but worth the looks. Gotten quicker with practice (third plug!!![:@] ) (BTW: I have an on-board glow system...)

Andreg00:
Another hint:
Don't use the provided servo tray. Make your own and bring it as far forward as possible.
I use two 2s-1800 Lipos for the receiver (glow heater is powered by receiver) which I positioned left and right of the tank. This way I had to add only an ounce or so of weight in the nose and - as I had mentioned earlier - I might take that out as well.

andreg00

How did you attach the servo tray ? Any pictures ?

Thanks

Andre

Spuetz

Hello Andre,

I just went to the garage (my "hangar") and shot a picture for you.

I fabricated my own tray by laminating 1mm carbon fibre onto a plywood piece. Carbon is on the side facing the top of the fuselage. This way the threads of the servos will cut into the carbon for extra rigid fit...

I epoxied 1/4x1/4 inch bars of wood on each side of the fuselage and fixed the tray onto those by three screws on each side. (make sure that you roughen the inside of the fuse well in the place where you will apply epoxy. I use a dremel tool to do this. The rougher the work, the better. Just don't dremel through the fuse ...) You can see part of it in the bottom of the picture peaking out from under the tray.
The reasoin for this is that I wanted to make it removable, because I positioned it far forward (C/G reasons). This way I can still get to the fuel tank and the batteries, which are positioned left and right of the tank. (hidden in the picture by that yellow piece of foam, that locks the tank in place and might suck up any oil that might enter the fuse..
It is a very simple straight forward construction...

Cheers, Martin