Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

I got this Enya SS 25 on a swap meet SIG Wonder.

with 15% nitro fuel running rich launch and with in a minute it quits
has good idle and transition but go wide open its done

head bolts, front plate, and carb screws tight.

any fix it ideas or sell it on ebarf for junk value. ??

Fxrs_tim

Check your tank and lines for even the slightest pinhole. Also, vibration may be causing the fuel to foam which is leading to lean runs. I've gone to bladder tanks on all my non-pumped engines and haven't had any issues since switching.

Tim

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

What size prop are you running? 9x4 or 8x5, .25s can be pretty picky.

stg61abc

Hi, test the engine with another plug. Also, its a good idea to check if the o ring below the carb is in good condition. another hunch. check if you are feeding the engine with the correct line, the clunk one, not the vented one.... happens to me 2 times hehehehe....
junk, Enyas???? Nooo, they are great engines!!

cheers

evan-RCU

While some people like the Enyas, I would never have one.. or a K&B... there are alot of good motors out there why put yourself through the stress?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Some plain bearing engines suffer from a runaway heat problem from too tight of a crank fit. Sink cleanser powder mixed into a paste with oil is a good lapping compound to relieve a tight fit..
The symptoms are similar to a bad fuel delivery, the run starts out slightly rich and all is well, then the engine starts sagging 1/2 way into the tank.

tucker1865

My Feedback: (6)

The Enya 25SS has a steel liner, cast iron piston and dual ball bearings. Treat the engine as new and do the proper break-in. Very rich setting (4 cycling) for a couple of tanks, then just into 2 cycle and back and forth between 2 and 4 cycling for another couple of tanks. Leave the glow ignitor on for the first 2 or 3 tanks. Then start to lean it a bit and heat cycle the engine. Run it a minute, shut off and cool. It will take at least an hour of running to be broken in, according the instructions. This is not an ABC engine and should be broken in like a ringed engine. After at least an hour of running, run it pretty rich and fly it for 3 or 4 more tanks and lean it a little each time. Then evaluate it. If done properly it will last as long as you will. I have heard that you will leave it to your grandchildren. (quote from "downunder" ) Look up his postings and you will find the proper break-in. Most people do not have the patience to properly break-in ring or cast iron piston Enyas. You are probably running too lean too early.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Run the crud out of it, under-prop it for about the first 20 minutes.

The flight situation might be foam occuring sometime during flight.
You can find out if that is the case by going up in prop one size and trying again (key here is just changing the rpm peak).

Crazy4Flight

My Feedback: (540)

it is NOT a new engine, compression is average, it is well past the break in period.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

There are the basic "feel" tests for cylinder leak down and how well the crank turns that I assume this engine has passed. Also assuming that it isn't all varnished up. The iron/steel engines benefit from castor oil in the fuel. The Castor allows running closer to peak without overheating, but it leaves a varnish build up sometimes. I use Hoppes #9 gun cleaner and a gun cleaning kit to remove varnish. Don't disturb the liner, just clean as much as you can with just the head and backplate off.
Do like Bob27 says and try a 7x6 on it if the engine is mechanically sound.