Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

Getting ready to make up the linkages for my Picco RE 60 powered Laser Arrow delta. I plan on using 4-40 rod, and was wondering if a solder clevis done with silver solder would hold up???? I have used them on 40 size planes with zero failures. The other end will be a Dubro safety link (The black clevis with the brass pin). Thanks

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

You can't beat silver solder for a lot of things. The only warning is over heating some things and then losing the temper of the metal. If the job ends up looking pretty...then it should work OK.
Just use as little heat as possible to get it to flow.

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

What CP said is right but I have changed from using silver soldered clevices all togeather. After having a few break over time I use a good ol Zbend and threaded Sullivan clevice or ball link. All 4-40.

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

I use a 60watt iron when using solder clevis and always use flux. Would you trust it?? I just don't like opening up the arm to get a Z bend through.

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

Never used an iron to silver solder. Nothing I have could get it hot enough. I've always used a torch.

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

Well I decided once and for all to see how strong a solder clevis really is. I took a 4-40 rod 12" Twisted one end into a loop and a silver soldered clevis on the other. I ran a section of rope through the loop then tied to my work bench. I attached a T shaped servo horn to the clevis. Holding onto the with a rag and pressing my legs against the bench where the other end was tied I pushed with my legs till something failed. The pin going through the clevis snapped. The solder joint did not move at all. I do go to the gym and can leg press about 275 lbs. which is way more force than ever would be place on the plane. So with that being said a CORRECTLY done silver solder joint is strong enough to take what we throw at it

RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
 

Goodness yes, it's strong enough! A silver soldered joint is about as strong as you can get. There are folks who will tell you that Stay-Brite is not silver solder, okay, it's silver bearing solder. But it's strong as all bejeezes. I use soldered links on 4-40 for everything up through 1.20 size pattern and quarter scale stuff. The only reason I don't use it for anything bigger is because I don't build any bigger.

As for soldering it, I used a torch for years with hit or miss results and I never could get it to work with a soldering iron. Turned out the problem was too much heat from the torch and not enough heat from a small soldering iron. CombatPigg is right, use as little heat as you can get away with and still get the stuff to flow. I finally bought a good 45 watt Weller soldering iron and now I can solder clevises as well as large music wire for cabanes and such. I've heard that a 65 watt is even better. But the little iron you have for electronics just isn't going to cut it.

If you absolutely must use a torch, be very careful not to overheat. The flux will boil off and then the solder will bead up and roll off. If you see any signs of glow in the music wire, forget it. Throw them away and start over. You won't get it to stick at those temps and you've just lost the temper anyway so now you've got soft wire.

As for Z bends, you couldn't pay me enough. There's no accuracy there. Ever see a perfect Z bend? Ain't no such thing. The corners are round and that means loss of centering precision.

I like your choice of engine. You're going to have to report back on how it does. I've got a brand new in box Picco .60 RE with the original pipe that is just waiting for the right pattern plane to come along. I take it out every now and then to drool on it.

Dave

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