<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">The spark which started my recent Heng Long Panzer 3 upgrade was my desire to change out the stock airsoft gun with a Tamiya compatible IR battle system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>My obvious choice was to contact Phil at RCTankWars.com to purchase a David&rsquo;s Battle Circuit/David&rsquo;s Battle Unit (DBC/DBU).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The install was remarkably easy!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Here&rsquo;s how it went:</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">First here&rsquo;s a quick-and-dirty wiring diagram of how the DBC connects to the HL electronics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It&rsquo;s a very well designed system.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">Here&rsquo;s what you get with the system: the circuit board, the sound module (in blue shrink wrap), IR LED, DBU (the black &ldquo;apple&rdquo; unit) and associated wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Phil assembled everything and even labeled the wires for splicing in the sound and +5VDC.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">Using the provided wires makes it easy to install the DBC between the HL receiver board the RX18 ECU.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">One of the two wires which must be spliced into the HL harness is the feed from the DBC sound card to the HL RX18 amplifier.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">The other wire is the +5V line which I connected to the RX18 (using one pin of a spare 2-pin connector) as shown in the above diagram.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">I cut a hole in the top of the turret in the commander&rsquo;s copula to mount the DBU&rsquo;s DIN9 connector.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I made a modest styrene platform to elevate the connector so its wires would not interfere with the Asiatam recoil unit I installed later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I later changed the orientation of the connector to allow for easier installation and removal of the copula and to ensure the DBU would be properly oriented on the turret.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The red switch which used to turn the airsoft gun on and off is now used to turn my headlights on and off.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">The provided IR LED will clip perfectly in place of the airsoft warning LED, which is probably fine for most installations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I wanted something a bit more discrete so I elected instead to mount a 2-pin connector in the airsoft LED hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I can then plug in the IR LED for battles and remove it when done.</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Arial" size="2">NEXT: The Good Time I Had Installing the Asiatam Recoil Unit and Tank-Modellbau Barrel (ouch)!</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></o></p>

nice work

Thank you, thank you, now this is a how-to!

Your connection angle for the apple is in correct. The apple needs to point right angles to the tank. The  at lights will be at 45 degree angles to the turret.

Yes, you're right. I quickly realized that installing the DIN9 connector at an angle would give me IR invulnerability zones to the front, sides, and rear. The only way to "hit" my tank would be from 45-degree angles! LOL! I hope others who choose to install this terrific kit will learn from my mistake. Needless to say, you can see that I properly fixed the problem in the photos in the"My First Tank - Remade" thread.

Yes, thanks for the pix and wireing diagram. I have been thinking of just such an upgrade for my tiger.

Yup , see it now in the under side of the turret. Just a friendly heads up.

Hello,
Did you order the DBU recently from Phil? Trying to figure out if he has them in stock and assembled.

Thanks,
Perry

I purchased my DBC/DBU from Phil about 5 weeks ago. I got the impression he assembles the kits for each customer as they are purchased. He does a very good job and adds lots of important touches like weather sealingthe connectionsandadding quick-release connectors. I especiallylike the materials he uses to assemble the DBU (a.k.a. the IR receiver "apple"). The installation is very intuitive but I thought I'd help out a little bit by clarifying a couple ofpoints with the diagram and pics.

Phil is aces. He really takes the time to make you 100 % happy. All vendors should be this great. I have it in my HL KV1 and it works great.

Bob, NEAD CO

This is definitely going on the DAKsite!

I've just installed one of Dave's RC2HL and DBU units in my own PzKw III. I began with the kit versions as I
wanted to build them my own way. The assembly ( soldering) was easy for both kits.Coming up with a Tamiya-esque
housing for the TBU was a fun exercise - I used poly carbonate plastic. I use the system with a
GWS R-6N II/H ( 75Mhz) 6 channel receiver. It gave a good account of itself this past weekend at its debut during the
BAT-HL battleday.... If anyone is interested it what I've done I'll post it in a new thread.

Jerry

Picture is worth a thousand words! Excellent post.

Thanks large,

Mike.

Man, it's always great to hear of the success people have with these!
Most of the work is in the build/integration/installation (either DIY or with Phil's help), but I take a bit of pride in having provided the base to build upon.

D.

You done good...

jerry

Does anyone want to rate this thread?

I love the DBU and how it opend up the IR tank battle action to HL owners. I put your system on my all metal S & S KV1 and was battling Tamiya tanks for less that $300. You can't beat that. It was stone stock and had about 15 hours of battles on it before we broke the RF idler off. It is a weak spot and I knew it would happen eventually.

I also love my Fan ban. Keep up the great work. My hat is off to you ........Bob

Yes, I concur on the design of the DBC. A great upgrade that really expands the ability of the Heng Long. It is more then just an IR battling system as well. If fixes the Heng Long kick back, and enhances the model with its momentum features. All this at a reasonable price.

Again Good work David. Now get working on a sound system!!!!!!!!! We need an interface between a DBC and an EL MOD sound blaster!!!!!!!!!!

You can fix that idler for about $5.00! Then your "Tamiya Killer" will have cost you $305!

I had Phil build me an WSN T-34/85 with the full hobby grade set up. i just need to get another futaba Radio as this is how he programmed it. Unless it can be reprogrammed. i kinda would like to use that AeroSport 5 for 50.00 bucks. i have it for my HL/Tamiya Pershing and it works great. dont even need to add the fire buttons with the way yellowshaker helped me set it up. Thanks again Joe. really looking forward to seeing you guys at our next battle day. David, how difficult is it to reprogramm the unit I have for a different radio. like i said i would like to get another AeroSport 5