KeithjV

i believe that flywheel is for the T-15 not the G3.0. The crankshafts are different.

shane_from_the_bayou

yea that is what i figued. hpi needs to do better updating between manuels

shane_from_the_bayou

hey i have another question.  My front wheels pull alot harder then my rear is that normal.  I have the newest version that is out G3.0.  I tore my diffs apart and i don't see no teeth damage or any clicking noise to indictate that there is damage.  I read a little on hear about shimming does that apply to all models ot the mt2 and if so where can i find some pics.  thanks in advance

KeithjV

Check the grub screws in the drive shafts to make sure they didnt come lose. That could be causing the front to grab harder.

SLAYERDUDE

Been quite a while since I posted in here, but I have a friend in need and I know you guys are the ones to ask.
Friend has an MT1 and bought a G3.0 engine...
What is his best option, I remember you guys saying most MT2 parts can work on a MT1...
Is there an easy way to fit the G3.0 thru a flywheel clutch combo?
Or should he try to fit some MT2 drive parts to make the G3.0 work on the MT1?

His plan ATM is to sell the G3.0 and buy a T3.0, the T3.0 is a direct fit in the MT1 yes?

Help is much appreciated as I will likely use this info to fit a G3.0 (laying around) in my MT1 when I get around to it.

Thanks in advance!

SyCo_VeNoM

T3.0 should be a direct fit

To use a G3.0 he would need the single piece motor mount (forgot the part # but its in the MT2 manual), the flywheel, and parts in the manual that hook to it (Been awhile since I toyed with mine)

SLAYERDUDE

Sweet!
Have you set one up like that Syco?
Dude already bought an engine that didn't fit, so I don't want him buying more parts that don't jive...
You rock!

SyCo_VeNoM

ya I popped a G3 in one(before I knew it was a G3... it was sold as a .12)
I tried it in an original on-road RS4 which it tore up, then in a MT1 (that I later ripped to pieces, turned electric,ripped to pieces, rebuilt, and just ripped to pieces again (its like a mechanical phoenix that keeps rising from the junk bin ))
Right now it sits in my MT2

If I remember right you also need a diff bell on it, but it was so long ago in my history of buying RC's that I don't remember the specifics of it.

SLAYERDUDE

Thanks Syco!

Lol @ phoenix

Uncle Vinnie

After a long hard decision I've decided to sell my MT2, this past winter I did a lot of on road racing and had a heck of a time,
and now want to continue with racing for the off-road season, need to sell the MT2 to purchase a 1/8 scale buggy.

Haven't decided what I'm going to ask for it, maybe you guys can help me, here are a list of upgrades done to it, and I'll have photos on the weekend.

Hpi Super Chassis 2.5mm (73948)
Universal dog bones Front/Back (86301/86302)
Heavy duty final gear set Front/Back (86336)
Heavy duty cup joint (86314/86315)
Stock springs plus Purple springs front/back
100cc optional fuel tank (87189)
Scorch 6 spoke wheels (3094) with Ground Assault tires (4411) use 2-3 times
Stock wheels with Proline MOAB tires
Upgraded aluminum turnbucle with RPM heavy duty rod ends
GT1 body unpainted (7776)
15 and 16 clutch bell with 49 spur for single speed tranny
2-speed tranny (86038)
Pinion gear to go with 2-speed 13/16
Spur gears for 2-speed - 41, 43, 46, 47, 49, 52
Sway Bar set (86290)
Savage air cleaner (87198)
THS exaust and header
OS .18TZ engine

Stock servos and radio and any other extra parts I might have also included

mt2nitronut

Hi Well i say you would be lucky if you got 300 for it even if you feel its worth more just dont think to many would pay full price for hopped up Mt2 i,ve got 3 myself may be selling a couple$200 each.

RCJuice

If you decide to sell it send me a PM, I may be interested in it. I would like to see some pics.

mt2nitronut

Ya i,ll keep you in mind send a pm just so i remember not on here that much ,just got back to work so my trucks will be back up and running soon

Uncle Vinnie

Here are a few photos of the MT2 I might be selling, all the upgrades are posted a few posts above.
I did forget to add the MT2 also has Sway bars set

mt2nitronut

Awesome clean lol Should get 300 plus with motor

Ruger-777

just finished. here is a before and some after shots.

KeithjV

The truck looks good. I like the servo cover. Did you make the rear arm shields?
What carbon fiber parts are those?

Ruger-777

Thanks, I can't wait to run it in, the os18 cv-rx has gotten some good reviews on here. I made the sheilds and also the battery box cover. I has the HPIcarbon fiber upper deck, I had an extra one of these that was broken so I cut the front section off and doubbled it up because I saw a pic of one once that was snapped in that webbedarea ,HPI front & rear towers are also carbon fiber. the piece between the battery box and the servo cover was extra from the broken upper deck.

Ruger-777

Heres a few more

Uncle Vinnie

WOW!!!!!!!!
I thought I kept mine clean, great job.
How did you install the rear wing????

Ruger-777

first I cut the spreader bars down a bit so the mount holes line up with the ones on the tower. The top two screws just go through the tower and into the threaded plastic of the mount. the bottom two go through the mount and the tower the other way and then through a alum savage suspension arm brace that I drilled some holes in and held tight with lock nuts. the pics should explain better than I can.

RCJuice

Looks great!! Where did you find the carbon top tray, I cannot find it for sale anywhere?

SLAYERDUDE

Does anyone remember... in 845 pages.. where the info for MT1 conversions were?
I have an MT1 and want to find out what parts I need to make the MT1 bulletproof.
Couple years ago I remember you guys telling me the MT1 was easily upgraded to MT2 parts in the diffs and what-not.
I'm looking to finally get some power in this thing and get it runnin, might be a whole new crew here since I been gone, but I'd appreciate any help I can get on parts compatability between the MT1 and 2.

Really appreciate any help.

Here's a couple pics of the pile I have now..

(You can likely find these pics a few hundred pages back as well..)

Ruger-777

HPI Carbon graphite upper deck
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...pl?pn=HPI73100

SyCo_VeNoM

ok heres the run down depending on how ar you want to change it

To change the chassis to the MT2 you will need the chassis(73947), radio tray kit(85029), support set (85033), and radio support set (85078)
To just use the new radio tray, and keep the MT1 chassis plate you need to drill 3 holes, but still need the rest.


Front Bumper(and rear body posts which you get both at the same time) you will need
85073, 85072, and 85071

If you want the slipper look at the manual all I remember is it was a LOT of parts that you also need to change the dogbones, and the cups on the front and rear diff [:@] Personally I'd leave it as is.

Arms
85074 for the arms, 85076 for the C-hub, and knuckles (Or IMO use the GPM aluminum RS4 C-hub, and knuckles which are better)

If you go with MT2 shocks with the new arms just change the mounting position to the C-hub instead of the middle of the arm, but the old shocks will work fine with that piece that screws in the middle.

86324 is the sintered bevel gear set.

You can upgrade one section at a time or go the whole 9 yards but those are the mandatory parts if you want to break it up
From what I remember that was the beakdown when I did it to mine (now all MT2)