New Mato Gears
#52
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From: West Melbourne,
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I got the new Mato revision, and yes I got them from Phil. I'd rather see if it's something simple that I can fix. The spacers on the binding set are wider than the good set, so I'll file those down 1-2mm so they match.
The gearboxes otherwise look good. The frames are solid and thick. I did have to enlarge one of the brass bushing holes so the bushing would seat all the way as well.
I didn't expect them to be simple drop-in and run as I think with any gearbox you should go through them and make sure everything is in order. The guys putting these things together aren't transmission specialist, but just cheap laborers.
The gearboxes otherwise look good. The frames are solid and thick. I did have to enlarge one of the brass bushing holes so the bushing would seat all the way as well.
I didn't expect them to be simple drop-in and run as I think with any gearbox you should go through them and make sure everything is in order. The guys putting these things together aren't transmission specialist, but just cheap laborers.
#54
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From: Evans, GA
ORIGINAL: MassiveOverkill
Got my gears in. One side is as slick as butter. The other side is severely binding. The side that's binding looks like the gears may be slightly helicut. I've taken the bad side apart numerous times to find out what's binding. I've removed the spacers, re-seated the brass bushings, checked the ball bearings on the output shaft, etc.
The ball bearings on the output shaft are cheapish. They're too small to really support the shaft, but I guess only time will tell. They run a little rough. My roller blade bearings won't fit. To save me Googling, if someone knows off the top of their head which part I freeze and which part I heat up (shaft vs bearing) so they'll expand/shrink to fit, I'd appreciate it.
I have to check to see if the gears that are side-by-side turn smoothly against each other as there's nothing seperating the ones that are on the same shaft. I doubt the frame is bent as the gears bind even with the screws fairly loose. Hopefully I can nail the problem down before sending them back.
I got the metal tracks as well. I'm trying to darken them, but the vinegar trick isn't working too well. I'm guessing it works better on steel tracks than it does cast pot metal.
Got my gears in. One side is as slick as butter. The other side is severely binding. The side that's binding looks like the gears may be slightly helicut. I've taken the bad side apart numerous times to find out what's binding. I've removed the spacers, re-seated the brass bushings, checked the ball bearings on the output shaft, etc.
The ball bearings on the output shaft are cheapish. They're too small to really support the shaft, but I guess only time will tell. They run a little rough. My roller blade bearings won't fit. To save me Googling, if someone knows off the top of their head which part I freeze and which part I heat up (shaft vs bearing) so they'll expand/shrink to fit, I'd appreciate it.
I have to check to see if the gears that are side-by-side turn smoothly against each other as there's nothing seperating the ones that are on the same shaft. I doubt the frame is bent as the gears bind even with the screws fairly loose. Hopefully I can nail the problem down before sending them back.
I got the metal tracks as well. I'm trying to darken them, but the vinegar trick isn't working too well. I'm guessing it works better on steel tracks than it does cast pot metal.
MO,
Like I posted in another thread. I accidently let my black metal track soak for 6 hours in vinegar and they came out fantastic( Ihave pics on the other thread) If your tracks are the metal colored ones. I soaked them for an hour, rinsed and resoaked for another hour. Scrub the tracks with a tough nylon brush to remove any scale and then I used gun bluing ( again more pics on the other thread. it's about a week old, so you may see it on page 2 or 3 ). I would repost the pics, but there on my other computer that crashed and burned. Still tring to recover files.
Jim
#55
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From: West Melbourne,
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Jim, I bet you have actual steel tracks that would blacken easily. These are cheap pot metal, but I did leave them in for quite a few hours (not 6) without any change. Thanks for the tips though.
#56
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Well I'm not even going to bother with shortening the shafts. Here's the problem:
Good side:

Bad side (large gear helicut, small gear attached to it straight-cut, as well as the gear it meshes is straight-cut. This is on both middle gears as you can see):

Vendors: You're going to have to go through every set and check for this before you send them out. Hopefully Mato will get address the problem quickly.
Good side:

Bad side (large gear helicut, small gear attached to it straight-cut, as well as the gear it meshes is straight-cut. This is on both middle gears as you can see):

Vendors: You're going to have to go through every set and check for this before you send them out. Hopefully Mato will get address the problem quickly.
#57
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Side by side picture, looking at it now, all the gears on the left side are buggered, Look at the metal straight edge I placed to see how bad the one gear is:

Once again, the right-side gear turns with no effort when turning the output shaft.......it's VERY SMOOTH.

Once again, the right-side gear turns with no effort when turning the output shaft.......it's VERY SMOOTH.
#58
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From: Evans, GA
ORIGINAL: MassiveOverkill
Jim, I bet you have actual steel tracks that would blacken easily. These are cheap pot metal, but I did leave them in for quite a few hours (not 6) without any change. Thanks for the tips though.
Jim, I bet you have actual steel tracks that would blacken easily. These are cheap pot metal, but I did leave them in for quite a few hours (not 6) without any change. Thanks for the tips though.
MO,
They were the metal tracks from MATO, So I think they are the same materiel?
Jim
#60
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From: West Melbourne,
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Well, before I ship the one side back to Phil for a replacement, I figured I'd snap some pictures:</p>
First thing you'll need to do is obtain narrower screw heads. I temporarily swapped the case screw in the middle with one of the baseplate screws. I suggest you go down to your hardware store and find the same length screw but with a thinner head (screw in the middle is the one I swapped):</p>
</p>Here is the baseplate installed. You need to trim down the center standoffs as they butt up against the baseplate screw tapping:</p>
</p>Here's the low motored gearbox installed:</p>
</p>Both installed:</p>
</p>Pinion clearance is tight. I took this picture before I got a chance to remove the center plastic standoffs so the gearboxes are tweaked slightly outwards at the top:</p>
</p>No problem with long can motors:</p>
</p>Height clearance:</p>
</p></p>





