I am trying to reverse a servo and I thought all I had to do was clip the pos. and neg. wires on the servo and reverse and solder the black to the red and red to the black, but all I managed to do was get the servo hot and it would not work. I am trying to install dual servos on my new Pitts Special (1/3 scale Great Planes) as it calls for dual servos. Can this be done without buying a servo reverser? I don't have mixing capabilities on my Fut. 6AS on the elev. I know I do on ail. Also on rudder I am planning to install dual servos. Can I get by with standard servos here as they will be doubled, one pushing and one pulling?

Thanks in advance,
Chuck L.


Please help me out guys!!!!!!

I would suggest using a miracle Y adapter available from MPI if you cant mix through a radio.

You are lucky you didn't fry both the RX and the servo... (and all other servos connected to the RX)

You ned to either use an in-line mixer such as recommended above (there are a bunch on the market) or plug the UNMODIFIED servo into a spare channel on the TX and use the computer mixing to make the servo track with channel 2.

It is possible to modify some servos and have them perate reverse to "normal"... however its done inside the servo, changing the connections at the moor and at the position sensing pot. Most modern servos, these connections are virtually impossible to rewire. An error ibn the rewiring results in you having a servo that is unuseable... and could blow the RX when you test it.

OK grass hoppers. I will take pics of the process of reversing Hitech servos. It's not some ancient secret only passed down to the most worthy. I learned by taking reversed servo's apart and rewiring them with the help of Bill Graves at Graves RC. http://www.gravesrc.com . If it works for you drop him a line and say thanks. Give me the time to set up photos. 2 days max, I will show you a regular servo and the rewired one. I'm sure you can figure it out from there.

Thanks for the reply. I only wish I had talked to you before I fried a high torque servo. After some testing I found out I didn't damage my rx. I'm looking forward to seeing your pic's and hope it will help me in my perdicament. I am using Hobbico CS-65 servos, so I hope they are similar inside. I am goiing to buy another new servo. If I can't reverse my servo I'm going to mount one up and one down and hope that it doesn't change the geometry by doing this.

Thanks again,
Chuck L.

It's pretty simple actually...provided you have some electronics type soldering skills. Reverse the positive and negative leads on the board and the reverse the outer leads on the pot. That's it.
Some are slightly more involved if they don't have wire leads attached to the pot. If that's the case, the traces leading to outer leads would have to be cut and a pair of jumpers used to switch the connections to the outer leads of the pot.

I have been in this game for too many years to count. I have never had a radio that didn't come with a servo reversing switch on the transmitter. That being said I take it that you are trying to reverse one of the servos of two that are on the same channel. If you have a Futaba T6XA plug each one into a separate channel and use the mixing function. That will probably be true of any good computer radio.

I have a JR that has a mixing swith. Problem is what if you bump the switch in flight and only half the elevator
works? I use the miracle Y from Expert. If it wasn't an ARF I would have offset the holes in the side of the fuse.
The first miracle Y I had would change trim on one elevator in flight so be carefull. later daveo

There are some mixes that can be turned on and off with switches... there are other mixes which will function independent of any/all switch positions. You need the programming manual for your radio to find which mixes are dependant on switches.

Example is my Futaba Super 7 (old...) which has 5 different mix functions available in any given program setup. 3 are defined switch dependant, 2 are user defined and can be EITHER switch dependant or can be programmed to ignore the switches.

Looking at the photo, remove and reverse the orange and brown wires that go to the motor. Then remove and reverse the red and green wires that go the the outer terminals on the pot. The colors are probably different on other brands of servos but the wires do the same thing. Electrons really don't care what color the insulation is!

=) sounds great

I haven't encountered any servo that I could not reverse. The servos that require the motor and pot to be reversed at the pc board are actually the easiest.

If you have a radio that does not have mixing, you are almost going to have to use a y harness. If with a Y harness one of the throws is backwards, you should just need to move the contol rod to the other side of the servo arm. I have no talent when it comes to soldering so I get inventive in other ways. Now as for the fellow that that has been in the hobby for a long time and has never seen a transmitter with out a servo reversing switch, I would love to show you my MRC Mark 5 transmitter. It was considered to be a great radio in the late 60s and no reversing at all. Hope this help's, Dave

It looks like this has already been answered, but just to add my two cents; I have pics and directions posted on reversing Hitec servos at this link:

http://members.fortunecity.com/chris...fwiw/fwiw.html

Chris

I'm sure Mr. Reid just made an unintentional mistake when he said just reverse the power on the board and the two outer leads on the pot. He should have said "Just reverse the two leads on the motor--NOT BOARD--and the two outer leads on the pot". The problem with doing this on some servos is that the motor is hard wired to the board so you have to cut the copper traces to the motor leads and use jumpers to reverse them. On some servos you can actually unsolder the motor from their lands on the board, turn the motor a half turn and resolder to the board again. Of course you also have to reverse the two outer leads on the pot.

T'is late in the day and I'm ready to go put together my Swallow... But gents

fiddling with the innards of the servos is fine and Dandy, but... as Dave Agar mentions couldn't it be easier to just use the OPPOSITE end of the arm on the servo that has the travel opposite to what's needed???
UNless you're going to compete for builder of the year.. chances are nobody would ever notice that one push rod is higher than the other.....

This will work but no matter how close you get it you will have asymetrical movement of the elevator halves. Not much at low throws, but it's compounded with high throws.

Another solution is to use a Hitec servo with the same specs as the Futaba on the other half. Hitec servos have opposite rotation of Futabas. Again they may not match perfectly.