seabee1

Ken,
Lookin great!!!!

Thanks Jim

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

This is in response to Tigerdude's problem with is wingtip. I've taken the left wing panel off of the board and I took a look at how the wingtip should look. You might think that you're sunk, but it's actually a pretty easy fix.

Ok, here's the problem as I see it. Two problems.

The first is the "gaping hole" in the front part of the wing tip plate. don't worry about it. Once you cut off the excess leading edge, top main spar, top rear spar, and the trailing edge you will sand it all down smooth. When you cover the plane the hole you are worried about will be covered with covering. You won't even be able to tell it's there.

Ok, the second problem. First put the wing panel on the floor, climb up on a chair, yell aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh, and jump from the chair onto the wing panel. Hey tigerdude, breathe man!!!!!!!!!!! I'm just joking to see if you are paying attention!!!! Sorry, couldn't help funnin' with ya. Here's your fix. Basically you glued wing tip plate on a little bit low, so a "bump" extends below the line of the bottom of the wing. Here's what you will need to do to fix it. First, get a piece of tri-stock (try to use balsa to save weight). You will have to sand/carve for it to fit on the inside of the wing tip plate (see attached picture for clarification), you want it to fit between the wing tip plate and the outside of the rib W5. What you are doing here is adding material so that you can sand on the bottom and not worry about the wing tip plate coming unglued when you sand on the joint. Now turn the wing over and sand the "bump" flush with the bottom of the wing. The material wedge you put inside the wing tip plate will keep the plate attached as you sand on this joint. Once you have it flush with the bottom of the wing you are all set now.

See my next post to see how I am doing this. It will help you when you do the wing tip plate on the right wing half.

Hope this helps

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Tigerdude,
Here is what I will do. I'm not quite ready to glue the wing tip plate on yet, but I did enough prep and dry fitted the part so you can see what I will be doing.

Picture 1-4. This show the part as it comes. You can see the "bump" that is your problem in picture #2. #3 shows you gap, which you don't need to worry about because it will be covered with covering when you finish the plane. Picture #4 shows the part with the "squared" rough edge.
Picture 5 & 6. Basically we need to bevel the edge of the wing tip plate so it will fit better against the outer side of rib W5. #5 shows sanding a bevel on the wing tip plate. #6 shows this bevel.
Picture 7-12. These pictures show the wing tip plate in place after the edge has been beveled. As you can see, it will fit better against the outside of rib W5, and on the bottom of the wing it will not "stick out" along the line of the bottom of the wing.

I hope this helps you out. Please feel free to contact me if you have any other problems.

Ken

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

MinnFlyer, I like your scheme. I was thinking of something similar, but don't how to do it. Sad thing is this puter has some different photo programs in it. I was thinking of transparent violet, trimmed in the pink, being her favorite colors. I think the transparent violet would really showcase Kens craftsmenship and hard work as well as purdying up her little plane at the same time. Then maybe we could use some the logos of pif, & rcu wear some of the starburst are, maybe something Disney on the rudder or something like that. Will you program let you get that detailed? I can see it in my head but I have no idea how to turn it into a viewable pic the way you do. For a better idea of what I'm trying to describe if you go to my models, I have a Sig Rascal in there, that has the transparent violet trimmed in white. Just replace the white with pink is what I was thinking of, with your Barbie logo and Ken's craftsmenship shining thru, I think it might be real purdy, take a look at the Rascal & tell me what ya think of those add-ons to your scheme. Thanks, Mark

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Something like this?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Mike,
What kind of covering is that on the plane in your picture? I looked and tower and I didn't see that color in monokote and didn't see that color in transparents. The only transparents for monokote are red, orange,yellow,clear,green, and blue.

Ken

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Ken,

It's SIG AeroKote. I just found it on SIG's web site under:

Coverings and Finishings -> AeroKote -> Transparent Colors

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Bubba,
Ah, ok. I found it. They have a purple, but no pink.

Ken

bruce88123

I know Monokote has a neon pink, but you probably already knew that.

econokote also has a pink.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Mike, That's incredible how you do that! I believe the color is transparent violet, but not certain. Yes Mike, something like that is exactly what I was trying to describe, but I liked your Barbie on the wing too!

I see now why they call ya the photo shop God. Very cool!


Mark

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Sorry Ken I missed your ? at first. Yes it is a Sig color, my Rascal was anf ARF, still don't know how Mike turned the white trim pink. But he did!


Mark

shd3920

Ha, ha, ha . Funny man, I loved your sense of humor - too cute. As I stated earlier I did NOT glue the wing tip plate in yet, I only test fitted it. So I can still bevel it. My question is, seeing as thou I can still bevel it out should I still add the tri-stock? I know you will probably say no to this, but remember - as you can see in the pic, the tip has been cracked and filled at one time before I even received the kit and maybe the tri-stock will help strengthen that problem along with filling it in some with filler. Or do you think filler will be enough for the crack? If I add stock to this tip it will also have to be added to the other tip to even out the weight. So, should I add the tri-stock, tri-stock and filler, or just the filler to add strength to the crack?

As for the big gap at the L.E tip, I will leave it alone.

CORRECTION: But then again, where I would add the tri-stock by the rib would not do anything for the crack as it would be nowhere near it, so I just answered my own question . Just fill it in with gap filler. As for the bottom of the tip near the rib, should I add the tri-stock to strenthen the tip or just bevel it?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Tigerdude,
Ok, since you haven't glued the tip on yet I would just bevel the edge like I did then glue it in place. When you glue it in place do it flush with the bottom of the wing like I did in my pictures. As far as where it cracked. Glue it back together, fill in any holes, sand it smooth, and then cover it and you'll do just fine.

Hope this helps

Ken

shd3920

Thank you Ken for all your help. By-the-way, the tip was not broken all the way through just cracked. I already glued and filled the crack. Will that be enough?

bruce88123

If you don't land on it.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Ken, Airborne Models also has a transparent purple in their toughlon line of coverings 800mmx2meters for $8.99 a roll. If you're interested. They are just 20 miles from here, but might be another couple days before I can drive again just let me know, ok?


Mark


P.S. they have a website too

mixing777

First, I want to say hello! I am new in here. Just getting back into RC. RCKen, thanks so much for this thread, I love it, just wish you were 2 weeks farther in your build!

Ok, down to business. I used to have a plane, but then went to college, move across the country and got a job. Now I found some friends who are in the same situation, and we are all starting to get back into it. I am currently in the middle of building a LT-40 kit. Here is the situation I have a question about. I have a Tower Hobbies System 3000 Radio and Receiver from my old plane (I pulled it out in my move, hoping someday i would get to build another plane). I am at a point where I really need to order some servos. So my question is: What brand and what type and what size would you recommend?

Thanks!

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

mixing777,
Sorry that I couldn't be further along!!! Actually, if you can hold on until this weekend I just may catch up to you. I have friday off and I plan on getting a lot of building done this weekend.

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Ok, a quick note about the covering mentioned above. Of course I will go with whatever Seebee1 picks as his final scheme, but I would prefer to stay with Monokote and the colors available in that if we can.

Sorry if I sound like a stick in the mud, it's just that I am more comfortable working with monokote than I am with anything else. Plus, the Sig covering didn't have as wide of a color selection has Monokote does, and I don't know about mixing those 2 different types of coverings.

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

There was a lot going on today and tonight, so I didn't get very much done. All I was able to do was get the wing off of the board (and put all the magnets away) and to glue the wing tip plate on the end of the wing.

Before I document that I want to cover a modification of the plans. At this point in the plans it calls for positioning the inner rib (W1), which means cutting the leading edge, main spars, rear spars, and trailing edge to the proper angle (use the supplied dihedral gauge to set this angle). Then the plans call for gluing the W1 rib in place. Now the plans call for building the right wing panel. Once the right wing panel is constructed up to the same point we are at right now (assuming we did glue W1 in place) and then join the two wing halves using the main dihedral braces. If your cut and gluing of the W1 ribs are a little off then there will be gap when you join the wing halves. What I prefer to do is skip cutting and gluing in W1 for now. Once we have the right wing panel built we can then put the W1 ribs in place. Since we have both ribs not glued in yet we can make small adjustments in their positions so they are a tight fit when then wing halves are joined. Picture #1 shows how I am leaving the wing panel until I build the other panel, nothing has been marked or cut yet.

With that in mind, all that leaves us for right now is adding the wing tip plate at the end of the left wing panel. In picture #2 I did a test fit and found that I didn't like how the edge of the wing tip place met up with the outside edge of the outer rib W5. You can see a little bit of gap there leaving very little wood to make the joint, this makes for a weak joint when it's glued together. My solution is to sand the edge of the wing tip plate (picture #3) and add a bevel (picture #4). This will give a better joint when it is glued. As always, work a little bit at a time and check your work often. Once you are satisfied that the two parts will come together in a joint with no (or very little gap) it's time to glue on the wing tip plate. Glue the plate into position. Notice in pictures #6 & #7 that the bottom edge of the wing tip plate is flush with the bottom of the wing, so there will be no “bump”. Once you have the plate in the position you want it in put a couple loops of tape around the plate and the inside rib to pull the parts tightly together and hold them there while the glue dries. Pictures #8 & #9 show the tape in position and waiting for the glue to dry. Once the glue dries I will take you through cutting the leading and trailing edges, the main spar, and the rear spar and sanding them smooth. Once that is done we can put this wing panel away for a couple of days while we build the right wing panel.

Pictures
1. This is the state we will leave this end of the wing panel in until we finish the other wing panel.
2. Test fitting the wing tip plate
3. Sanding a bevel into the wing tip plate in order to give it a better fit with the W5 outer rib
4. Inspecting the angle of the bevel.
5. Test fitting the wing tip plate in position.
6. Another test fit. Notice the bottom edge of the wing tip plate is flush with the bottom of the wing
7. More test fitting
8. Piece glued in place, tape in place to secure the part, and sitting for glue to dry.
9. Piece glued in place, tape in place to secure the part, and sitting for glue to dry.

Until next time

Ken

bruce88123

mixing777 - Ken appears to have missed your radio question. Attached is a link to your radio. As you can see, it is compatible with many brands of servos. My personal liking is in the Futaba line such as the S3004 also linked here.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXCUM2**&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVW07&P=7

Be careful of your batteries if they have been sitting around for very long. Sometimes it is better to just replace them also. At the very least check them out carefully.

I believe your radio system was orig mfg for Tower by Futaba.

Welcome back.

fireplug1111

My Feedback: (21)

I know your not going to make that a PINK LT 40. BARBIE come-on-man. PINK And your doing such a excellent and careful job. Good work Im curious to see it completed.

Here is one I built and sold on e bay to a buddy in Washington state.
Still going strong after a few years of flights.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Bruce,
Thanks for the assist on this one. I did in fact miss his question about the radio.

Mixing777,
One nice thing is that you can use any servo with any radio/receiver, just as long as you have the wiring correct on the servo. All servos have 3 wires controlling them, and they are positive, negative, and the signal wire. As long as you have these wires connected properly the servo will work with your radio. See the attached diagram for the wiring on servos, and what to change it to for your radio.

As far as the servos go, just about any standard servo from all the major manufacturers would be ok for this plane. The Futaba 3004 servos that Bruce mentioned will do you just fine, in fact 2004's are what I plan to use in this plane. In most of the planes I fly I use the standard Airtronics server, 94102, and have had very few problems.

Hope this helps

Ken

bruce88123

Airtronics server? Can you guy's tell Ken works on computers for a living?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Guess it's my turn to wear the hat!!! [sm=bananahead.gif]

Stuff like that happens with not enough sleep!!

Ken