bruce88123

You can't stop the snow but you can learn to fly.

brocja01

Here you go, here is a covering scheme that you guys could consider. The only thing I couldn't get on the model is the payit forward icon and the little bumble bee. But where I want to put them is on each side of the vertical stab. I think they would look good there.

Let me know what you think.

Jeremiah

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

brocja, That too is a nice looking scheme, very similar to Minn's original scheme yet still a little different. You must have the same program in your puter like Minn, I can't figure out how to make mine do any of that cool stuff, that's why I drive a truck for living
Looks nice, well done. And those colors are available in Monokote, therefore it might get by the " ol stick in the mud"[sm=lol.gif]. Sorry Ken, just couldn't resist that.


Mark

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mark,

I spent 16 years as an ower/operator OTR driver. Now I do computer security for a living and you should hear the comments when I tell people what I used to do compared to now.

Most people think truck drivers are not all that smart and in a way I have to agree or I would have never gone into this computer stuff and tore my mind apart like this let alone have to deal with this type of stress Driving was so much eaiser

J/K...

bruce88123

Not enough room in the sleeper to build?

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Oh I had a "West Coast" truck, meaning everything is BIG, darn near motor home size. But I was not flying at the time or I would have hauled the planes in the trailer, built them in the sleeper and slept on the roof under the airdam

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Good thing ya didn't bubba, cause then you'd have been trying to fly @ the flying hook, and when I keyed up my Galaxy 99 with that sweet 16 pumpin it, you'd have crashed into the buffet table

Mark

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Here we go, I'm back now. Sorry for a little delay, but real life poked it's head in and interrupted me. Actually, yesterday was just a beautiful day at the flying field I stayed a little longer than I really had planned on to get in some extra flying. I had a blast!!! Then we spent the afternoon getting ready for Halloween. Yep, you guessed it, we are one of those families that goes all out for holidays like this. We do up our porch to make it as creepy as possible. This year we've added a fog machine to help out. The way our porch is shaped there is a bunch of trees hiding the porch and overhanging it, so making it scary is really easy. We wanted to get it all set up so when it was dark we could get all the lights and fog machine positioned correctly so they looked good. So now we're all set for Halloween. Great, I can't wait.

Anyway, enough personal stuff and back to the build. In my last post I was at a point building the left wing panel where I could stop building and build the right wing panel. I'm not posting the build/pictures of the right wing panel because it was identical to the left wing, with nothing new or out of the ordinary. Besides, I could build faster when I'm not stopping to take pictures and documenting the build. So if you are following along with me in the build go ahead and build your right wing panel using the same steps as we did for the left wing panel. As with the left wing panel, stop before you mark, cut, and glue in the W1 center rib. I want to do both of these ribs at the same time so that I can make sure the dihedral angle is correct when I glue these two ribs in place. Pictures #1-#4 show both wing panels construction up to this point to give you an idea of what your's should look like (assuming you are building along with me).

A google search for the definition of dihedral came up with this:
What does this mean for us? Well, dihedral is what makes a trainer stable and easy to fly. Dihedral will keep the wings level in flight. This means that if you put the plane into a bank (turn) and then release the control the dihedral in the wing will level the wing. Now don't be mistaken into thinking that this is some miracle “autopilot� to save your plane, because it will not instantly level the wings. But given enough space and time it will return the wings to a level condition and return the plane to level flight. I've put this information in here because I've found that there is a lot of confusion of what dihedral is and what it does. Ok, so now on with the build.

Now armed with a good knowledge of just what exactly dihedral is, it's time to set the dihedral on our build plane. I'm going to back up a bit and repost some information that I put out earlier. I'm going to repost about the dihedral gauge that came with kit. I wasn't pleased with the gauge that came with the kit at all. If you will look at picture #5 you will see the gauge that came with my kit. I've seen other posts here on RCU that show the same thing with the dihedral gauge being off. I was a bit worried that both sides of the gauge had a curve in it. I just didn't think that this would give us a good enough measurement of the dihedral angle of the wing. So I made my own gauge. I'm not going to completely retype my construction of the dihedral gauge, so if you need to make one of you own please refer back to post # 7 in this thread for details on building a new dihedral gauge. Picture #6 shows the new dihedral gauge that I built.

So, let's get started on joining the 2 halves together. Using our new dihedral gauge we need to mark the spars to the angle at which we will set the W1 ribs in place. Put the gauge in position with the 90° angle against the W2 rib and the bottom of the gauge on the bottom sheeting. For right now we only want to mark where we will set them (picture #7), but don't cut anything yet. Now set the W1 rib in place, with the bottom of the rib even with the end of the bottom spars. Since when we built the wing halves we placed the spars in the location with the inside edge of the spars even on the plans, this should be the correct position for the bottom of W1 (don't worry if it was a little bit off, we'll have a little room for adjustment). Now position the top of the W1 rib even with the marks you made on the top main and rear spars (pictures #8 & #9). Now it's time to double check everything (remember what I said at the start? “Measure twice, cut once.� We use it all the time). Turn the wing panel over so we can double check the dihedral angle. Turn the gauge over and place it flat on your building surface. Use the angled side of the gauge and place it against the W1 rib, the rib should match up with the gauge (picture #10). Check the angle along the length of the rib. You last check is going to be at the leading edge end of the W1 rib. Measure the distance from the W2 rib to the W1 rib at the main spar (picture #11), and check that the distance is the same at the leading edge (picture #12). If not, adjust the position of the tip of the W1 rib. Double check everything. Once I was satisfied that the rib is set in the correct position I marked the position of the rib on both spars, the leading edge and the trailing edge. Now that you have the angles set and you're sure where everything will go, go ahead and glue the W1 ribs in place on both wing halves.

While the glue dries on the W1 ribs, this would be a great place to stop this post.

Pictures
1. Both wing halves finished to point where we are ready to join them.
2. Another view of the inner end of the wing halves.
3. The inner edge of the left wing panel.
4. The inner edge of the right wing panel.
5. The dihedral gauge included in the kit. Unusable.
6.New dihedral gauge cut from scrap wood in the kit.
7. Marking the top main spar for the correct dihedral angle.
8. Placing the W1 rib to check position.
9. Placing the W1 rib to check position.
10. Rechecking the dihedral angle
11. Measuring the distance at the main spar
12. Transferring the distance at the leading edge.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Wow, it almost seems like something wants to keep me from getting the wings joined. Actually, it's an easy step that really does need to be done before we join the wings. What we need to do now is install the WS-T3 sheeting which goes on top of the wing between the trailing edge and the top rear spar, and the WS-B1 sheeting which goes on the bottom of the wing between the leading edge and the bottom main spar. We need to put these in place before we join the wing halves because these pieces of sheeting will help stabilize the W1 rib and hold it in place. We don't want the rib to move around when we are trying to glue the halves together. These pieces of sheeting are fairly easy to put in place.

Picture #1 shows getting ready to test fit the WS-T3 sheeting in place. One thing that will help you produce high quality model is attention to details. When I went to test fit the WS-T3 in place it didn't fit correctly without “jamming� it in place. When I glued the leading edge in place the glue dripped down and left a “blob� of glue that was in the way of correctly placing the sheeting (see picture #2). Use your hobby knife to carefully remove these “blobs� of glue. Once the sheet is glued into place I placed a weight bag on top of it to hold it until the glue dried.

After doing the WS-T3 sheeting I moved on to doing the WS-B1 sheeting on the bottom of the wing. When I got to this step I ran into an instruction in the manual that had me scratching my head and grinding my teeth. Scratching my head because I almost couldn't believe that they actually printed the instructions in the manual, and grinding my teeth in frustration that they actually did print it. I've scanned the step from the manual and included it here so I could show what I was talking about. It tells you to put the WS-B1 sheeting in place and gives you a note that there will be a wedge shaped gap at the front of the sheet and to just fill that gap with medium CA. [:@] What is wrong with this? Technically nothing. It doesn't hurt anything in the final product and the plane will fly just as well, but I think that it's just a cheap and easy way out, and doesn't produce the best model possible. And in my mind, if I am going to take the time build this model I want to build the best model I am capable of building. So what is wrong with the way they did it? Filling the gap with medium CA will produce a hard “lump� that will most likely stand out when we cover the plane. CA dried rock hard and is very hard sand down, and when the wing is sanded it most likely won't smooth out. Also, I prefer to have wood-to-wood joints everywhere possible. So how did I fix it. It's actually pretty easy, more or less. Where the front of the sheeting meets the leading edge we want to sand a bevel (picture #7) into to so that it will make good a good joint with the leading edge. Since we are beveling the edge of this sheet it's going to come up being a bit too short to fit to the main spar at the rear of the sheet. I had two choices to fix this problem. One would be to cut a new piece of sheeting and the other would be to just add to our existing sheet. Since I want to do this build with the wood that came with the kit and not have to spend money for extra wood I'm going to add on to the existing sheet. Once again, this is where saving all the scrap wood comes in handy. In picture #8 you can see where I cut a strip out of the same thickness wood as the sheeting. Then glue that strip to the edge of the sheeting. And then a little sanding and now we have a very good fitting piece of sheeting. As you can see in picture #9, the sheeting fits a lot better now. Even though I use a magnetic building system to build my planes with, that doesn't mean that I still don't use pins. Place pins in the edge of the wood to hold it in place until the glue dries. I also placed a weight bag on it to hold it down.

Alright, I promise that we're getting closer to actually joining the wings. Just hang in there and we'll get there soon.

Pictures
1. Test fitting the WS-T3 sheeting
2. Remove the “blobs� of glue
3. Putting the WS-T3 sheeting in place
4. WS-T3 sheeting in place.
5. Use a weight bag to hold sheeting down while glue dries
6. Scan from instructions manual explaining an aggravating step
7. Sanding a bevel into the sheeting
8. Adding a strip to the sheeting in order to make it fit
9. Putting the sheeting in place
10. Using pins to hold the sheeting while glue dries
11. Weight back used to hold sheeting in place while glue dries

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Woohoo, we finally made it. We're actually getting to the steps where we get to join the wing halves. Yippee, yahoo.

With the W1 ribs set we need to cut off the excess leading edge, trailing edge, main spar, and rear spar. Just like when we cut off the excess at the wing tips we want to cut close, but not too close (picture #1 & #2). Leave a little excess and sand it down to where we want it to be. Carefully sand down everything flush with W1 (picture #3 & #4), be careful as you don't want to sand into W1 (picture #5). One quick step to do before we move on is to cut out for the aileron servo. The cutout is already scored, use a hobby knife to continue cutting down to the sheeting (picture #6). Once you have it cut down remove the material in the cutout area (picture #7).

Now we need to cut out the W1 rib in order to for the dihedral brace to be inserted. This is another area where we need to take our time and do it correctly. It would be easy to just take your knife and cut across the are to be remove, but this will usually result in the wood splintering or breaking and that's definitely not good. I prefer to use a straight edge to mark a line where we will cut (once again this falls into the “measure twice, cut once� area), by marking the line (picture #8) we know exactly where to cut and there is less chance of making a mistake. With the line marked use a razor saw and carefully cut the wood (picture #9), you want to avoid the wood splintering so take your time and cut slowly. Picture #10 shows the cutouts completed. Now we need to get the dihedral braces ready for joining the wing halves. Here is another place where we need to make an accurate measurement. Place the dihedral braces on the template in the manual to mark the centerline of the brace.

Pictures
1. Cutting the excess top main spar
2. Cutting the excess leading edge
3. Sanding the excess material at the W1 rib
4. Sanding the excess material at the W1 rib
5. W1 rib sanded.
6. Cutting out the aileron servo cutout
7. Aileron servo cutout removed
8. Marking where we will cut out the dihedral brace grooves
9.Cutting out the dihedral brace grooves
10. Grooves cut
11. Marking the dihedral braces
12. Marking the centerline of the dihedral braces

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Take a little extra time and look at this set of pictures closely. This step is pretty important. You'll also want to be very very careful when we start fitting the dihedral braces in each wing half. If the brace doesn't fit don't “force it�. All that will happen from that is that you'll wind up breaking the ribs. There really isn't a lot of explanation that goes in here. We need to make sure the dihedral braces fit into each wing half. If the gap between the rib and the spars is too tight use an emery board or your hobby knife to carefully open it up a little bit. We need to make sure that the braces will go completely into the wing half up to the centerline we drew on on each brace (picture #1). As with everything else we have done here, take you time and make sure that they all fit correctly before moving on. There isn't much to say about making these braces fit, but I can't stress enough how important it is that this step be done correctly. Plain and simple, these braces join the wing halves so we want them to be right.

Pictures
1. Test fitting the front dihedral brace.
2. Rear dihedral brace pushed all the way into wing half
3. If the gap for the dihedral brace is too tight, don't force it in.
5. Using a hobby knife to open up the gap.
4. Using a hobby knife to open up the gap.
6. Opening up the gap with an emery board.
7. Both braces in place in the right wing half.
8. Both braces in place in the right wing half.
9. Another view of both braces in place.
10. Another view of both braces in place.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Ok, let's test fit the wings and see how they go together. If we did a good job with the dihedral gauge when placing the W1 rib then the two halves should join up correctly. Cross your fingers and here we go.

Remember, we are test fitting now. DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET

Find the Dihedral Tip Gauge (DTG) and pin it to to bottom of the outside W5 rib on one of the wing tips as in picture #1 & #2 (either side will do. Pick whichever side is easier for you). Once you have the DTG in place this will lift up one wing tip (3-3/4�) to the proper dihedral angle (picture #3), the other wing will lay flat on the building board. This will set the proper dihedral angle for the wing. Slide the two wing halves together by joining the wings using the dihedral braces. As when we were test fitting the braces, do not force this together. If it snags any when you are sliding them together please stop and figure out what is causing the binding, don't just force it! Pictures #4, #5, #6, and #7 show the wing halves sliding together. Once they are together you want to check for a good fit. Both W1 ribs should be in complete contact with each other. If there are any gaps at the top or the bottom of the joint stop now and fix it. Don't force it, and don't assume you can correct with epoxy or filler. Take the time to make it fit correctly now. If the joint is a bit off use a sanding block to remove a bit of material at a time until they fit properly. Go slowly and check often for the proper fit.

Once you are satisfied with the fit then we will move on to joining the two wing halves.

Pictures
1. Placement of the Dihedral Tip Gauge (DTG)
2. Make sure the DTG is straight up and down.
3. The DTG will raise the wing tip 3-3/4� off of the work surface
4. Getting ready to dry fit the wing halves
5. Slide the wing halves together
6. There should be little or no gap between the wing halves
7. A tight fit between the two wing halves
8. A look from one wing tip to the other
9. Both wing halves joined together in a test fit
10. Both wing halves joined together in a test fit

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Here we go. It's crunch time, time to join the wing halves together. This is an area where you will first want to read all the way through the instructions so you know exactly what you will be doing.

Before we get going on actually gluing the wing halves together I want to stop and take a minute for another point that I disagree with the instructions. The instructions that come with the plane will tell you to glue the 2 wing halves together with thin CA, and using medium and thick CA to fill in any gaps. I am completely and totally against using CA to join wing halves. This goes against everything I have ever been taught when building airplanes. I am not going to use CA to join these wing halves together. Every wing I have ever build the wing halves were joined using 30 minute epoxy. I don't plan on changing the way I build a wing now. This is a critical joint in the structure of the wing so we want it to be as strong as possible, and that means we will use epoxy to join the wing halves.

Ok, I'll climb off of my soap box now.

We are going to be using 30 minute epoxy to join the two wing halves. It gives a longer working time (extra time to get all the parts together) than 5 minute epoxy and it is stronger than 5 minute epoxy. Before we mix any epoxy you will want to “rehearse� assembling the wing. This may sound a bit odd, but this is crucial to doing a good job on this step. When you are working with epoxy you will have a limited working time before the epoxy “sets�. Using 30 minute epoxy will give you plenty of time to get everything together, but you don't want any “surprises� to pop up when the clock is ticking. So now is the time to practice how you are going to put this together, all the way from applying the epoxy to clamping your work to how you will set it on the building board for the epoxy to set. Make sure you have a piece of wax paper or whatever you use to cover you work area with so that the wing won't stick to the building board from any stray epoxy.

Ok, take a deep breath and here we go joining the wing halves. First of all, mix more epoxy than you think you will need. You say you don't want to waste epoxy? Remember, the clock is ticking as soon as you start. Do you want to stop and have to mix more epoxy while the clock is ticking? I thought not!! I used an epoxy brush to apply the epoxy for this. It gives you more control as to where the epoxy is going than a mixing stick does. Start off by “painting� the inside of the wing panel where the dihedral braces will go (picture #1 & #2). Put epoxy on both sides of the main spar and then push the dihedral braces into place in the first wing half. Once the braces are in place put the epoxy on the inside of the second wing half where the dihedral braces will go. Set that down for a moment and apply the epoxy onto BOTH of the W1 ribs (picture #3). Now that you have epoxy on all of the surfaces that will mate, slide the wing halves together (picture #4). Yes the clock is ticking before the epoxy sets, but don't rush to the point that you make mistakes, you have plenty of time to get it all together (that's why you practiced putting together). Once you have it all lined up start putting your clamps on. You will want to make sure you clamp the dihedral braces to the spars. Also clamp together the two W1 ribs. Use as many clamps as you can get into the work area (pictures #5-#10). Double check that everything is aligned and then set the work aside. Don't touch it again until the epoxy has set. Give it plenty of time and be patient.

Pictures #11 & #12 show what the area should look like after the epoxy is dry and all the clamps are removed.

There we go. First major huge hurdle is completed. The wing halves are joined. Give yourself a pat on the back. That wasn't as hard as you thought it would be was it?

Pictures
1. “Painting� the spars with epoxy.
2. Applying epoxy to the other side of the spar.
3. Applying epoxy to one W1 rib
4. Joining the 2 wings halves
5. Firmly clamping the 2 halves together
6. Firmly clamping the 2 halves together
7. Firmly clamping the 2 halves together
8. Firmly clamping the 2 halves together
9. Firmly clamping the 2 halves together
10. Note the plastic sheeting under the wing to keep the epoxy from sticking to the work area.
11. The dihedral braces after the epoxy has dried and the clamps removed.
12. Top view of the joined areas.

Until next time

Ken

shd3920

Very nice and thorough explainations here. I love it, can't get it wrong can I? I figured you were going to use 30-minute epoxy - just as I do, I do not trust anything else. I was going to use epoxy from the start but wanted to be sure from you on how it was and should be done.

I am glad I waited for you to do yours because I was not sure about joining the two W1 ribs together - didn't know if you were going to do the joiners (dihedral braces) alone with epoxy and use CA for the ribs, OR do the whole thing with epoxy [which I should have known you would have knowing how much you hate CA glues].

Now that I know that I can't get it wrong after reading and studying these posts, I am going to go ahead and join mine now. Thank you so much for your guidance and help!!! [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

The only thing I did different from the plans so far is I cut away the servo openings in the bottom sheeting before the joining step as I figured it would be easier on me to cut them before joining the panels instead of after the joining (which it truly was).

Another spot I am thinking of modifying is the way the hatch is kept on. Instead of holding it down with the screw I am thinking of using a nylon hatch hold-on clip on the inside of the compartment and hatch.

It works well for other trainers I have seen so it should work on the LT-40.
Here is what I would like to use instead of the screw --------> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDMM0&P=0

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I just received a PM from a fellow builder that reminded me of something. I had thought that I had posted this information earlier in the thread, but after looking I realize that I haven't posted it.

This may sound a bit silly that I even need to mention this, but you'll find out when it comes time to cover that it's not silly after all. When you are placing the parts on the plane you will want to make sure that any printing on the part needs to be placed so that the printing is on the inside of the plane, so it's not showing or visible on the outside. More often than not sanding will not remove the printing, and when you go to cover the part a lot of time the printing will show through the covering. So make sure you turn that part over so the printing is on the inside.

Hope this helps.

Ken

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Seeing is believing. I wouldn't have thought it possible to get that many clamps in there, but you did it. I'm convinced that you just married those two wing halves together for life.
I don't want you to take this the wrong way Ken, but after watching your build to this point, I have decided not to tackle building the 4*60 myself. Not only do I not have the proper room & building set-up to use, I also see now that there is so much more to building a quality Airframe than I had assumed just a few weeks ago. I thought I could build a good airplane. I realize now, I have the ability to ASSEMBLE a fairly nice plane, and let's be honest here. Anyone with the ability to read & follow direction as well as the ability to correctly read & use a tape measure should be able to assemble a fairly straight & flyable ARF. I believe there is wisdom in knowing our limitations. I really wanted the 4*60 to be a full built kit plane, because I hear that when built right, they are a much better plane than an ARF, but I can allready see I'd be biting off more than I can chew. This is a discouraging realization for me to know I haven't the skill or knowledge I thought I did, & all you've done so far is built the wing. It is apparent to me that as you get further along it will only reinforce what I've allready come to realize. Your build has become a humbling experience for me very quickly. So when the time comes, the 4*60 will have to be an ARF, or at least built by someone other than myself. I do envy your building skills, & by the way, love your Cardinal theme on that Slow-Poke'

On a lighter note, Tigerdude, You mentioned the nylon canopy hatch. I don't know if what I'm gonna suggest is applicable on the LT-40 or not, but might be worth checking out. I believe it is called a "Rare Earth Magnet". I am a 3rd generation RCU owner of a Mountain Models Switchback. It was built by someone in here, sold to another member here, then traded to me. The canopy hatch has this Rare Earth Magnet on it that works really well. It looks like a watch battery in size and lines up nicely with a regular thumb tack to magneticly grab. Stays on very well as these tiny magnets are pretty strong, yet will release very easily by just slightly pinching the canopy between your thumb & fore-finger on either side of the magnet. Just something to look into if you're interested.

Mark

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mark,

We heard MountaineerFan36 say the exact same thing, he dug in and was surprised at just how easy it was. There is an old joke for certain SIG kits which apparently applies to the LT-40 and 4* series airplanes as well:

To build one, you open the box, drop in a bottle of CA, close the box, shake well, open the box and out will pop a completed airframe.

Somewhere earlier in this thread a link was provided to his build, please go read it, it'll amaze you.

On the other side, I'm not a builder, but after Mountainers thread I ordered a SIG Hog Bipe to build over the winter. I'm not going to do a build thread on it as there is already a great one for it, but it will be somewhat harder as there are 2 wings to do instead of one.

I recently started teaching a night class to special needs teenagers on the benefits of R/C, specifically planes and I was going to have them build the bipe for me but I changed my mind and got a 4*60 for them to do. That way they can fly it after it's done. I'm going to do the bipe at the same time myself.

I did 2 SIG Something Extra's last year and they went together very very well, now the main difference is the wings are not joined so that is one step I did not need to worry about. This could be another kit for you. They are great second planes if you keep the throws down on it

bruce88123

elenasgrumpy - While I have no idea what your building skills are and what tools you may have available, I can assure you that you do not need to be a master builder or have as elaborate set-up as Ken to successfully build a 4*-60.
Just look over some of the other build threads here including other 4*'s done by those who had never built before either. Ken is showing a great build but if you don't measure up to his quality, there is nothing wrong with that, You can still have a fine plane. All you really need is a flat table and a ceiling tile and some confidence. You will learn the rest as you go. Ask questions here when you have them, as often as you need to. We haven't charged anyone for our lousy advice yet. Err, did I say that out loud? I meant great advice. As long as you take your time and read and follow the instructions, the SIG kits are rather easy.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Bill, Bruce, Your encouragement is appreciated, thank you both. Ken thank you too! You know what for. I too had wondered about the Something Extra, and if it fell into the category of 2nd plane type or not. Bruce. at the risk of sounding really green here, what am I gonna do with the ceiling tile??[sm=spinnyeyes.gif].

Mark

figment

elenasgrumpy, You say you envy Kens building skills. Well, there is a lot to envy. I know, I do to. And the way he got to where he is, is by doing it and building those skills. If you start with the 4*60, you will surely be successful and be on your way to building those skills. Just keep a thread going, whether it is a full blown build thread or not, and yuo will get lots of support. If you look at any of the begginer build threads, I am sure you will find the points at which we all have had our doubts and lacked confidence. This community is there for you when you feel that way or to answer any questions you have. Give it a shot, I am sure you will do fine.

Patrick

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Patrick, I appreciate ya!

Mark

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Just wanted to add real quickly that I appreciate everyones support, I really do! I don't however want to turn this into an " oh poor me" thread. After all it's a pif build and there's two little girls excitedly awaiting, ( I am sure ) their new airplane. keep plugging away at it Ken , you're gonna make those girls very-very happy when you're done!!

Mark

bruce88123

If you don't want to spend the money on the magnetic system. Find a flat table or surface (hollow core door) and put the cieling tile on it. You can pin all of the parts down onto it easily. Put the non-perforated side up.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Oh I see what you're talking about, Thanks Bruce.


Mark

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mark,

Since I'm space challenged in my workshed here is what I did.

I went to Home Depot and bough a nice flat piece of maple about 36 X 36 inches. Then I bought a package of high density insulation foam that were 48X36 inches and a can og 3M spray contact cement. I cut the foam to fit the board and glued it on.

Instant building board and I spent about 20 bucks and had 3 sheets of foam leftover for the next builds