Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II
#26
>HOPE ITS GONNA B OK
I hope so too! Sounds like things are going good.
How to load photos: You actually have to post your message. Then go in like to edit it. From the edit screen, you'll see a link at the bottom that says "Upload more photos." You'll see what to do from there. Took me way too long to figure out that feature.
I hope so too! Sounds like things are going good.
How to load photos: You actually have to post your message. Then go in like to edit it. From the edit screen, you'll see a link at the bottom that says "Upload more photos." You'll see what to do from there. Took me way too long to figure out that feature.
#27
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi crunch.had better not use caps else capt l av another go at me
ha.thanx 4 the tips on photos.il give it a go my friend.waiting 4 the sealant & glue 2 dry.just bin readin yor "lost sub chicago" & how u found it again.the pics are great.i dread that apnin 2 mine.when its finaly a russian model i hope it dont sink like the kursk.
ha.thanx 4 the tips on photos.il give it a go my friend.waiting 4 the sealant & glue 2 dry.just bin readin yor "lost sub chicago" & how u found it again.the pics are great.i dread that apnin 2 mine.when its finaly a russian model i hope it dont sink like the kursk.
#28
Best of luck as you christen your first Wally sub. Sinking like the Kursk is possible if you pack torpedoes, though I suspect weeds or leafy pond bottoms played a hand with every one of my boats that didn't resurface (two boats, three incidents).
I used to love to keep my boats nearly at the point of neutral buoyancy for great maneuverability. No wonder I lost two without warning.
My last boat that went down--lit, as it were--I noticed the next day there was a weed bank near the spot. I give you 50/50 between "crush depth" or the weed bank.
I have to admit it was kinda cool to watch the light getting distant and realize it was down farther than I was used to.
I used to love to keep my boats nearly at the point of neutral buoyancy for great maneuverability. No wonder I lost two without warning.
My last boat that went down--lit, as it were--I noticed the next day there was a weed bank near the spot. I give you 50/50 between "crush depth" or the weed bank.
I have to admit it was kinda cool to watch the light getting distant and realize it was down farther than I was used to.
#29
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
hi there crunchy.yep dread the weeds.bin seakin few pools out nearby.not much to choose from & they cant b that deep so shant go below 1ft there.the canal seams better 1st as got great visibility u can c the weeds.bowt 4ft deep near bank.gues bowt 5-6ft in middle.also when dab hand at it n pikd up courage thers a great open water place bowt 8mile away where people go 2 jetski and windsurf & the like.supposed 2b real deep there.[X(]temptation temptation.dive dive dive
doing the paint job later matt black.gonna ask my eldest son 2 give me hand load pics on here 4 u 2c.looks good sofar

keep u posted crunch
doing the paint job later matt black.gonna ask my eldest son 2 give me hand load pics on here 4 u 2c.looks good sofar

keep u posted crunch
#32
Undertaker, your canal sounds great. I had access to two nice pools, but then we left our apartments and moved out to the country. I miss the visibility and lack of weeds, though come to think of it I don't miss those wicked currents.
7Sevan has a cool sound! I can definitely hear the Whitesnake influence in "Each Day."
7Sevan has a cool sound! I can definitely hear the Whitesnake influence in "Each Day."
#34
I'm not the one who spotted or has seen it, but...
With a name like "Shark," and given that Wal-Mart stuff isn't targeted at the scale modelers, or customers avid about authenticity...
I picture an aggressive design bristling with weapons, not based on a navy- or commercially-employed Shark.
Doubt it's a Skipjack or other history-based design. I can hope, though !
With a name like "Shark," and given that Wal-Mart stuff isn't targeted at the scale modelers, or customers avid about authenticity...
I picture an aggressive design bristling with weapons, not based on a navy- or commercially-employed Shark.
Doubt it's a Skipjack or other history-based design. I can hope, though !
#35
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
hi crunchyfrog.y thank u very much 4 the appraisal of our bands sound.we have better songs than that 1 now but havent had them recorded yet.our drummer has left the band 2.he was very young and had other commitments so we had 2 let him go.we still do well with just the 3 ov us......on 2 the main topic.... the AKULA,,painted top half of the hull & the tail.looks great.will definately try n load photos asap.ive used dremil bits 4 the ariels,periscope,antenna.cool lookin n realistic.lookin 4wrd 2c ing how the rebalancing goes.yep sum great canals round here.was big industry transport system years ago.its called the black country.because of the smoke & smog from the factories & foundries.sadly they av nearly all disapeard..the factrys that is.not the canals.it may b safer 4me 2use them.i saw the connetecut n seawolf again 4 sale on ebay from hong kong.in us dollars.il e mail u the page.
#36
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
sorry,cant email it as dont no your email.if u go 2 ebay enter submarines u will c it. 9.99 plus 19.99 postage.just the 1 left there was a double wammy the other day.
gone now tho[&o]
gone now tho[&o]
#40
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
y thank u capt nemo.ok i suppose 4 1st attempt.was a bit unsure wether or not 2 at 1st.but hey wot the hek.glad u like the sonar
#42
>there was a double wammy the other day.
gone now tho [&o]
Fear not...the Wally subs always come back on Ebay (often at $40, though I heard of one grumbling seller that had to pack one up for $9)
I could see how the Seawolf could become a Typhoon.
gone now tho [&o]Fear not...the Wally subs always come back on Ebay (often at $40, though I heard of one grumbling seller that had to pack one up for $9)
I could see how the Seawolf could become a Typhoon.
#43
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi crunch yep me 2 can c the seawolf as a typhoon! would only have 1 prop tho instead of 2.nearly finished the AKULA now.gotta varnish it in matt,& glue the antenna on the outside of the hull.heres some laterst pics 4u.enjoy.theres some of my revel model subs 2.cya soon.undertaker.
#45
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi crunch.the OMSK transfer is off my revel model KURSK.thought id use it up 2 give me xtra visibility of AKULA in the water if slitly cloudy,yep SKIPJACK a revel model.type in REVEL MODELS on GOOGLE theres loads variety.SKIPJACK real cheap.id love the KILO or ALFA from NORTHFLEET.great subs.my AKULA should b ready 4 maiden voyage next wkend GOD WILLING


send sum videos of it then.



send sum videos of it then.
#46
You know, on your Skipjack I recognize the stand, label with an atom diagram in each corner, reactor hatch, and three-bladed prop as a Monogram kit I built in the 80's. License had changed hands more than once. Aurora, the original maker, went out of business in 1977.
http://www.oldmodelkits.com/aurora.html
This site lists an Aurora Skipjack available, sealed in mint condition--asking $145 !
I think the Monogram kit cost under $10 when my Dad got it for me in 1980. That kit they think they can sell for $25 because it's not mint.
Here's the up-to-date version of that same site--with pictures. But you have to do a search on Skipjack to see them.
http://www.oldmodelkits.com/index.php
http://www.oldmodelkits.com/aurora.html
This site lists an Aurora Skipjack available, sealed in mint condition--asking $145 !
I think the Monogram kit cost under $10 when my Dad got it for me in 1980. That kit they think they can sell for $25 because it's not mint.
Here's the up-to-date version of that same site--with pictures. But you have to do a search on Skipjack to see them.
http://www.oldmodelkits.com/index.php
#47
ORIGINAL: THE UNDERTAKER
Hi crunch yep me 2 can c the seawolf as a typhoon! would only have 1 prop tho instead of 2.
Hi crunch yep me 2 can c the seawolf as a typhoon! would only have 1 prop tho instead of 2.
#48
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From: wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi there crunchy.WOW[X(] thats sure some price 2 pay 4 those models! great looking sites though
.do u like the skipjack?ive seen a small rc 1 on the rc model subs site in USA.pricey kit tho[:'(].ive totaly finished the AKULA now
.avnt done the battery mod tho[:-].did u do this with yours.do u recommend or not.ive balancd & trimd it in bath.mite sail 2mo weather permit.
cant wait 2 get it out there.wen was the last time u took yours?theres a super rc kilo kit on ebay.300pound starting bid.buy it now 4 850.[X(] thats without radio[X(] ive given the AKULA a slite metal color drybrushing & matt varnish 2 finish.
#49
Hi Undertaker,
I've had a long like affair with USS Skipjack. As a preschooler I was given a book that had a picture of the sub in it and described the previously-unattainable feats subs like that were accomplishing. So growing up I would hear of the Skipjack from time to time, and thought Skipjack was half the US Navy.
Battery mods...sorry I haven't tried any--except going to rechargeables, then heavier rechargeables, and adding foam to compensate.
The handiest foam mod I've employed has been to buy a styrofoam cylinder about an inch or two wide and jacket the prop shaft with it; when I'm trimming the boat and need to adjust the stern buoyancy, I just trim the cylinder shorter or add length and that takes care of the stern. I wish the bow were as accessible.
Last time I floated my boat...an hour ago ! Tested a little mod I made overnight. Our subdivision pond has flooded and swallowed sidewalk half the 200 feet to the street. It was awesome because I had a fenced-in corridor of water, bottomed by the sidewalk: If the boat had started leaking fast and wouldn't come back, I knew I'd find it sitting submerged on the sidewalk. The water level stops halfway up the slope of the sidewalk; the pond end of the sidewalk must be 10 feet underwater now.
My sub left underwater mud trails on the sunken sidewalk whenever it shoved off or came back. Looked like submerged snail trails, kinda diffuse and glowy.
Before that run, my last was the day before, on lunch break. Hope you make it to the open water tomorrow !
I've had a long like affair with USS Skipjack. As a preschooler I was given a book that had a picture of the sub in it and described the previously-unattainable feats subs like that were accomplishing. So growing up I would hear of the Skipjack from time to time, and thought Skipjack was half the US Navy.
Battery mods...sorry I haven't tried any--except going to rechargeables, then heavier rechargeables, and adding foam to compensate.
The handiest foam mod I've employed has been to buy a styrofoam cylinder about an inch or two wide and jacket the prop shaft with it; when I'm trimming the boat and need to adjust the stern buoyancy, I just trim the cylinder shorter or add length and that takes care of the stern. I wish the bow were as accessible.
Last time I floated my boat...an hour ago ! Tested a little mod I made overnight. Our subdivision pond has flooded and swallowed sidewalk half the 200 feet to the street. It was awesome because I had a fenced-in corridor of water, bottomed by the sidewalk: If the boat had started leaking fast and wouldn't come back, I knew I'd find it sitting submerged on the sidewalk. The water level stops halfway up the slope of the sidewalk; the pond end of the sidewalk must be 10 feet underwater now.
My sub left underwater mud trails on the sunken sidewalk whenever it shoved off or came back. Looked like submerged snail trails, kinda diffuse and glowy.
Before that run, my last was the day before, on lunch break. Hope you make it to the open water tomorrow !
#50
My mod today beat the sub's torque roll--without having to angle bow planes.
I put little strips of silicone on the trailing edges of my tail fins.
My sub had had a bad clockwise (looking at the prop from behind) torque roll.
I dabbed a strip of silicone onto the trailing edge of the upper rudder, angled right, so waterflow would make the sub's top want to rotate counterclockwise. The bottom rudder's trailing edge I modded with a strip on the left to give the bottom a matching counterclockwise push. The left stern plane was a stock Chicago fin, up-angled; I left it alone. The right stock up-angled stern plane I didn't want to modify permanently so I took a spare Conny fin, and with silicone gave it a downward trailing edge, completing the slight counterclockwise rotational tendency all around.
I set the sub loose. The first second, the prop pushing against the water would, as it always had, transmit its force back to the sub and slew it clockwise--but in about the 2nd second, waterflow past the stern fins took over and righted the sub--it snapped back upright and stayed !
With any distance, the sub tended to turn (not rotate) left, and to angle downward. But I pretty much expected that kind of thing: The mod's in alpha-testing. It highlighted inconsistency and imbalance in my mod job. I took a look and realized I'd double-beaded the leftward- and the downward-influencing silicone strips, which I'll pare down now to single like the other two.
So I now have a prop-modded sub that doesn't suffer the usually-attendant sharp torque roll.
A note on just putting a strip on, say, only the top rudder, angled right: I would expect that to pitch the sub right, not rotate the hull counterclockwise to counter the torque roll. That's kinda the equivalent of just turning both rudders right. But I'd be interested to know the result if somebody tried it.
I put little strips of silicone on the trailing edges of my tail fins.
My sub had had a bad clockwise (looking at the prop from behind) torque roll.
I dabbed a strip of silicone onto the trailing edge of the upper rudder, angled right, so waterflow would make the sub's top want to rotate counterclockwise. The bottom rudder's trailing edge I modded with a strip on the left to give the bottom a matching counterclockwise push. The left stern plane was a stock Chicago fin, up-angled; I left it alone. The right stock up-angled stern plane I didn't want to modify permanently so I took a spare Conny fin, and with silicone gave it a downward trailing edge, completing the slight counterclockwise rotational tendency all around.
I set the sub loose. The first second, the prop pushing against the water would, as it always had, transmit its force back to the sub and slew it clockwise--but in about the 2nd second, waterflow past the stern fins took over and righted the sub--it snapped back upright and stayed !
With any distance, the sub tended to turn (not rotate) left, and to angle downward. But I pretty much expected that kind of thing: The mod's in alpha-testing. It highlighted inconsistency and imbalance in my mod job. I took a look and realized I'd double-beaded the leftward- and the downward-influencing silicone strips, which I'll pare down now to single like the other two.
So I now have a prop-modded sub that doesn't suffer the usually-attendant sharp torque roll.
A note on just putting a strip on, say, only the top rudder, angled right: I would expect that to pitch the sub right, not rotate the hull counterclockwise to counter the torque roll. That's kinda the equivalent of just turning both rudders right. But I'd be interested to know the result if somebody tried it.




