foresterxt

My Feedback: (35)

So I've got a CRRC Pro 45cc V3 gasser (my first gasser) that I started to break in at the end of last fall. It was very difficult to start; I flipped it so many times my shoulder was getting screwed up. I finally realized that If I flip it a few times with the choke full on, then turn the ignition on and turn the choke half way on, it fires up right away. I've read a few posts that say the choke shouldn't be engaged with the ignition on, but setting to half-choke seems to work perfect. As a matter of fact, the only way I can get my leaf blower started is to start her half-choked as well. Of course as soon as the engine starts, I turn the choke completely off. Does anyone else start the engine half-choked or am I off my rocker?!

Thanks,
Dave

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Fast idle, full choke, ignition on...... flip till it pops. Then normal idle, open choke, flip till it starts.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

TKG's method has worked perfectly, with no guesswork, for everyone that has used it for decades. Why some manufacturers tell the buyers to choke for ten flips or so with the ignition off is beyond comprehension. If the carb starts dripping during that kind of starting proceedure the engine is already flooded and will be real hard to start.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Pat - I for SURE have to agree.... unless the choke doesn't close all the way, or the "fast idle" is set too low, the "hot, choke, pop" method is hard to beat.

I think sometimes we have hard starting problems because we forget the two things I mentioned, particularly on a new install. Runs fine on the sawhorse, then for some reason, doesn't start properly in the plane. That one sound familiar?

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Best responses I've read in this forum in over a week.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I've been laying back.........

pe reivers

The only method I can advocate as general advise is the "hot choke" as described here, because it leaves no doubt as to the engine flooding condition, and it works 100% of the time.

Of course there are ways to skin the cat that also work, once you get to know your engine well.
If the idle is rich enough, I get first flip cold starts with the cold chocke till hissing method, just bumping the prop a couple of times until the carb is hissing wet. Ignition on, and flip. With leaner idles, this does not work as well, and starting takes progressively more flips.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Why start now

rmh

starting problems - likely the most oft asked new thread
Some engines came with poorly matched carbs - and were almost impossible for anyone to get good cold an hot starts.
Sometimes just changing to another identical carb fixed things
these carbs were made for a far more simple use.
The result is less than perfect repeatability in production.
Some times the same engine is a "one flipper" -given to one flyer and a "no runner" given to another .
Some of the favorite techniques are to me --- horrible
the worst being to ram a spinning starter against the spinner -
If your sport engine needs that - get rid of the engine and starter .
personally I never choke a warm engine til I have tried a hot flip for a few times at low throttle
a dead cold start?
I make the carb snuffle with the ignition off - choke on throttle up a bit
then add power and pull the prop thru -it should bump .
Mine ALL do that.
at that point you are ready for a start - you have proven it will fire.
low throttle and a easy flip. and awaaaaay we go.
As note above a lean low speed needle can cause some real frustrations as the engine will likely brap an die UNLESS you use a very low throttle setting which effectively enrichens the mix
Back at th e last 2002 TOC I started all the fliers - for all flights
It was interesting to note that most allowed a few seconds warm up from a very low idle --to compensate for the lean "low" needle setting needed for best in flight performance.
Most engines there were DA150's if it matters -so most carbs were large Walbros.
The occasional Tillotson - seemed - just seemed to me to be a bit less sensitive to the start.

cyclops2

I adjust the carb to run-- whatever it powers-- right when HOT.

I then have to always start with a FULL choke to get a firing up and a quiet stop. Flip the choke off and it runs on the next pull.

Real cold starts, first one that day are a full choke till the engine warms up and starts to slow down a little Then to 1/2 choke for another 15 or 30 seconds. ALL my engines big and small, RC and garden equipment are that predictable. I never take them apart to " See if the factory knows what they are doing. " If a new engine can not start with those steps, It goes back to where I bought it.

I paid for it with perfect money. I want a perfect engine!!

Rich

rmh

My money is imperfect as my printing press is a bit old now
I can still knock out a pretty acceptable silver certificate ---

cyclops2

I am laughing. Thanks Dick

Rich

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Don't try buying anything overseas. You get to find out how imperfect our money is...

Dick,

If you think you could do a nice looking gold certificate that looks like it's been around a long time then we might have to talk

For you Treasury types that was a joke since none of those guys have a sense of humor.

foresterxt

My Feedback: (35)

Excellent, that's the way I start my home/garden engines as well! For some reason I was over thinking the start process on the RC gasser. I damn near killed myself by following the manual:


1.) turning engine over five times or so with choke on.
2.) turning choke full off and ignition on
3.) flip engine another ten times
4.) repeat above until I felt like I was going to puke or started feeling my shoulder seperating.


When I was just about to blow my top, I used full choke and sure enough it fired up on the first or second flip. Continued to start it with full choke a few more times through the following days and it started right up as well.

rmh

along with some pretty darn good engines and some pretty crummy ones - the easterm rim folks apparantly print up some good looking currency
according to the local bugle- the paper /threads / flop paint etc-- excellent.
spooky

cyclops2

Dick.

Set the printer for Euros.

Dollar X 1.5 [:'(]

rmh

Yeh -when I bought my first ZDZ from Amelung in Germany the rate was 78 cents to one Euro.
don't look for a fast fix on this either
we are tied to the Chinese currency -- but the Euro now has made the seemingly strange move of building BMW in USA- (the Z4) now look like a very good business choice-
Our Euro based engines may be hard put to compete with possible comparable non Euro based engines
Rats -I prefer the European engines. The ZDZ and Evolution are my favorites
and the only rotary valved ones available

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Better still, Kuwaiti Dinar. $0.264 U.S. to the Dinar about a month ago. Their punishment methods are a little on the harsh side though. They only have one if caught. Ifr caught you most likely will be convicted. Death....as it should be.

rmh

By rights -we should own that place- Its time we nationalized our major oil co's

cyclops2

They are our national treasure. Ask any politician who is in office.

Rich

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I use this technique on every engine I have. Hasn't failed me since I started with gassers. Simple easy, no guess work involved.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Same with me. Transmitter in left hand with finger on choke switch. If I'm quick enough, as soon as it pops, I flip the choke off and it stays running.

cyclops2

mrbigg

You have the choke controlled from the transmitter ? Neat.

When I had a 55 cc in the PTB I put a small starter motor and timing belt setup onit so I could restart it on the water if needed. It was great to crank from the transmitter.

Will do a choke and starter on my next Hydro. Have all the spare parts of the PTB on hand.

Thank you very much, Mr Bigg.

Rich

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Works goods. It would be nice to have an onboard electric starter. Not for aerobats (weight) but in something like a 1/3 scale Cub.

cyclops2

I mounted the large timing belt pulley on the face of the pull cord pulley. That way it was simple.
Remove the cord.

Rich