Ben,

What are you building and then I can give you a ballpark cost. Better yet I believe Coosbaylumber commented on this. I believe he's a laser cutter, or uses the same person I do: Bob Holman. Holman's great and he'll be glad to give you a ballpark figure. Are you going to convert this yourself, or are you looking for something that's already done? Sorry I didn't answer your question, but as I said in my last post, it's all dependant on the amount of parts, the size and woodgrade. (Laser time & all balsa isn't the same!) www.bhplans.com/index.html

Chuck

The most economical method is the copy and paste onto the balsa. A large copy at someplace like Staples will cost $15-$20. Then you can cut the plans up, layout the parts on your balsa, and cut them with a scroll saw or band saw. Cut just outside the lines and use a bar sander to final sand to shape. Balsa sands quickly, usually just a few strokes with the bar sander is all it takes.

Small notches are easy to cut with a scroll saw. It doesn't take long to figure it out.

Brad

So can you stack several ribs together and notch them at one time?

Yes you can, you can also stack several together and sand to final shape. I stack three or four together, hold them in place with pins, and saw right outside the line, then i will stack 8 to 10 together and sand an a edge sander, I made a makeshift edge sander, took the belt sander and put it on its side and made a "Table" to go around it. Just make sure the table and sander pad are at 90 degrees to each other, I cannot emphasize enough how important SHARP tools are an asset, and when I " power" sand I will use a 180 grit or finer, anything rougher will take off wood way to fast. After I have the Pieces to shape then I will notch em for spars with the Knife.

Ben

If you're going to embark on scratch building I highly recommend you check out Paul Johnson's [link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/]site[/link] called Airfield Models. Here's a page on how to scratch build a set of [link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/make_constant_chord_wing_ribs/index.htm]ribs[/link] for a constant chord wing. You'll find instructions for tapered wings too if you need that. This site is one of those internet gems that I visit all the time ... it seems like I never leave without some new information. Paul's site has been invaluable to me, regardless of what kind of building I'm doing (kit, scratch, repair, etc.)

-MA

Good old fashion Carbon Paper has worked for me the past 65 years. find a comercial printer outfit and ask for their used carbon paper. to them its scrap and in the basket after one use. it comes in rolls. dick

Thanks this has been some good info.

Another thought for the See-Temp semi-clear plastic is your local sewing or quilting shop. They carry this material in various sizes at a very reasonable cost. I talked to one of the sales clerks in a quilting store that my wife goes to and I wound up buying some 36 x 48-inch sheets of the stuff for hardly nothing. She didn't need it any more and it has found a welcome place in my house. One side of the material has a slightly rough texture and you can just lay it over the plans with the rough side up and trace directly onto the plastic. Then, as noted above, just cut it out with scissors or score it lightly and you'll have some superb templates. Lee

Practice-Practice with a broken razor blade, knife, jig saw. its a Heck of a lot cheaper than haveing someone else do your work. also learn how to use sandpaper and block backing of it. have have been doing it since middle 1930' and my planes look and fly as good as any pre built model- by Chinese fingers. practice-practice. that is unless you have Meg-a-Bucks to throw around. dick

Thank you very much, Jim.

Intersting solution for the angle notch.

Regards!

make your own print wood with good results and no mess or fumes. its easy just photocopy the piece of the plan needed on a toner type copier NOT a ink jet printer. the toner is heat activated. i like to use my sealing iron set to hot, and by applying the plan piece to align to indicated grain direction to the balsa press the iron to the paper and as you move the iron pick up and pull the paper up just as the iron has past. donot try to iron the paper to the wood and peel it up this gives only faint results the dark results seen in the photos results fron pulling the paper away as the iron passes. rember the image on the wood is the mirror image of whats on the plan. for ribs and items i need multiples of i cut a 1/32nd balsa template for transfering by pencil.





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