tom2bell

Here are some pics of the b25 after the rebuild I think it looks even better The nose is the one offered by the flyingchef back in the thread somewhere. carbon fiber really cool
tom

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

tom2bell,

NICE LOOKING GUNSHIP!!!!!!!!!!!! REally cool....

any videos of it flying?

-cheers

TOMAS
www.vqwarbirds.com
[email protected]
"KEEP 'EM FLYING"

krproton

WOW!

REALLY NICE Tom.

Gotta get some good flight shots of that one!

Tim

toreo

rotate top turret from standart servos and plywood

Erebus

Toreo, Please keep us posted on your turret mod, I was thinking of something similar but I am interested in what you come up with.

I pulled the covering off of mine and cut a scale size bomb bay, scale is 12" long. You can see where it was cut by the formers. Since I am adding the crew hatches on the bottom it was easy to relocate the nose steering servo. I also use a servo in the scale location for the arms that open the bomb bay, works great.

I wanted internal linkages for the flaps so I made some hinges that pivot on the bottom, this will allow me to run the pushrod to the top of each flap and keep it all in the wing.

I also extended the outboard flap to the scale length.

I removed all of the extra ply and balsa from inside the fuselage, the only cross stick I left are in the bomb bay.

toreo

Great flaps, Erebus
I almost completed bomb bay and make sucessfully testrun my simple and low cost release system.
http://rutube.ru/tracks/1615573.html...c8a215e7df2a3d
I make top turrent, and make some improvments in lasercutdraft

c550

My Feedback: (16)

I finnally got it assembled and on its feet. I still have detailing and weathering to go, plus engine and radio set up. But I thought I would show my work to date;


Regards,

Dave

tom2bell

I allmost did mine in marrine colors. Very nice looks great in blue Dave.
tom

Mirco

Hi

Yesterday was maiden (day). My B-25 did her first 3 flights without any problems besides fuel consumption. I did a test run before the first flight to determine the flight time at 3/4 throttle. About 4-5 minutes.

I use the following setup: Saito FA 82; VP-30 Pump, stock tank (420cc). According to the engine manuel the fuel consumption should be at 30cc per min. (420cc/30cc = 14 min.)

Main needle 4 turns open at 9600 rpm with MAS 3-blade 12X8.
Idle needle 1/8 turn lean than factory adjustment.

Maybe the pumps have to adjusted, but I use an bypass between carburator and pump back to the tank. So the extra fuel should go back into the tank.

What `s the problem[&o]

RCGuy41

Hi Micro,

Just read your post, just two quick questions, did you adjust the low speed needle to maintain idle RPM around 1900 - 2000? Second question, are you using a glow driver on both engines? I believe you might be running both engines too rich, which would explain your high fuel consumption rate. Before I fly any bird with a 4S engine, I ensure my throttle body opening is set at 1/16th of an inch, perform a ground turn at home to ensure proper engine operation. I fly OS 4S engines, before initial startup I turn my high speed needle out four full turns. Once the engine has been started and idle has been established with adjustments from the lower speed needle and carb opening so Idle RPM is at 1900 - 2000. Slowly open the throttle to max power "Note any changes in engine noise and or engine flooding," adjust the high speed needle until the desired engine RPM has been achived, should be arounf 10,000 RPM for a Saito FA82 engine turning a 12X8 prop. Hopefully this helps, if not, one of the other gents might be able to help.

Brad

norm

Mirco,

My experience was similar to yours at first. My enfine are tuned approx 2 1/2 main needle and 1 3/4 on the idle needle valve. I set my mixture peak rpm + 1/6 turn no need for more since the fuel is always the same pressure. With MAS 3 blade 12 x 8 you should get approximately 9600rpm.

It is also normal for new engines to consume more fuel until well broken in. I get normally approximately 11 minutes full throttle to a dry tank with my sert up now. I used to get only 6.5 minutes at the begining with 9000 rpm.

Also do not fine tune your engines with the glow driver on.

Normand

Mirco

Hi

Yes, I use an glow driver system, but I did not fine tuned the engines without the system. I just checked wheater the engine still run without the system in case of an system failure.
Now I know the B-25 flies and now I am going to spend more time to fine tune the engines without the glow driver system.

regards

Mirco

norm

Mirco,

You will most certainely find a difference without the glow driver on and your engines should at all time be reliable without the glow driver. Test on ground until 100% certain the engines are reliable then turn on the glow driver system again for insurance.

You should idle the 82's at 2200 rpm and a steady run for at least 5 minutes without hesitation

Your top rpm should read 9600 rpm on each engines (with Master AirScrew 12 x 8 3 blades) and lean + 1/6 to + 1/4 rich and your engines will always run nice, check the valves gap and make sure the valves rockers are well lubricated and oil run freely in there.

I just overhauled my engines thio winter and look forward to fy the B-25 again.

Congradulation on your Maiden flight, post some pictures!

Normand

Mirco

Hi

Thanks for the answer. I am going to fine tune the engines today, so I am able to go flying on friday again.

Here are two pics after the second flight. Sorry no inflight pics.

regards

Mirco

Mirco

Hi

Last friday I spend about 2 hours to fine tune the SAITOS. The engines are running very reliable even without glow control. Fuel consumption is better now. On friday I did one and on sunday two very nice flights.

Sorry, no inflight pics just on the ground.

regards

Mirco

norm

You are very lucky mirco to fly,

We are still in snow here and there are still icy and snow patches everywhere. You are very lucky to fly your plane at this time. Good news on your engines and better fuel consumption. I am certain that as soon as you will have approximately 2 hours running time after a valve adjustment, you will have consistant reliable engines and a normal fuel consumption rate.

Anyways I'm writing those lines at 4 degree and grey windy rainy day. Looking forward to fly!

Normand

toreo

few additional photo. Turret has successfully tetstrun and ready for paint.

Thomas B

My Feedback: (4)

So, is everyone happy with the suggested CG of 5" back from the wing LE at the fuse?
My electric conversion is approaching completion...now down to the scale details, crew stations and the gear doors, pretty much.

Mirco

Hi

CG as mentioned within the manual.

regards

Mirco

rnordeck

So, after the required 50 hours (plus 5 months!!) "Fur Ball" is on her wheels. Just havta post few pics. Waiting for some matte/flat coat; break in the OS 70-FS's and then find someone who has flown a 21.5# - 48 oz wing loading heavy metal warbird at 5500' above sea level in very thin Wyoming air!! ..... Help fytrjok.

I finished her to represent B-25J-11-NA #43-36192 that was assigned to the 345th Bombardment Group - Air Apaches, 498th Squadron in Biak, New Guinea in '44-'45. It is modeled as it appeared after seven training / strafing missions. The first pilot and crew are unknown so I have assigned as pilot the fictitious "Lt. I.B. Narly" (Me) and Lt. Yossarian (Catch 22 fame) as co-pilot. "Fur Ball" is from a Vargas print published Dec. '41; the very month of the attack on Pearl Harbor....and my birthday month. #192 was later piloted by Lt. Robert J. Knauf and possibly renamed "Jaunty Jo". She was shot down on the 61st mission by AA fire on a low level bombing / strafing pass over the Byoritsu Oil Refinery, Formosa on May 26th, 1945. All five crew members were lost.

"Lt. I.B. Narly"

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Nice job. how did you get the "wearing" along some of the edges ? I've seen it done with flite metal on wing leading edges but you seem to have it all over the place. Look very realistic. would you be willing to shre your technic ??

Thanks

Joel

rnordeck

Joel,

Thanks. The leading edges chipping/wear is way simple: Floquil- "Air & Armor Weathering Colors" Flat Aluminum # 201995 and occasional #201991 carefully applied with a fine point #0 brush. Spot highlight panel line edges, corners and leading edges. Also used some Floquil "Grimy Black" diluted and dry brushed on the cowls. Definitely worth the "little" extra time!

"Narly"

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Very nice. Are your panel line drawn on the surface or are the "burnished" into the balsa ?

Thanks

Joel

rnordeck

Joel,

I used a #2-HB pencil to score on the panel lines (scaling up from a 1/48th scale Revelle kit); then "semi" highlighted same with ultra fine black Sharpie. Worked great. I first tried my old drafting Rapidograph pens with drafting ink...but that technique wasn't good as the ink didn't like the monokote and just beaded up.

"Narly"

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

What pilots (and gunner) did you use ? Pre-painted? I haven't been able to fine any true 1/9 scale figures, most are 1/8 which makes them look kinda big headed.

"then "semi" highlighted "

I assume this means occationaly in places ?? You would happen to have a super close-up any of the panel work ?

Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to figure out what kind of technic to use. I've seen several different ways but the others just kinda sit on top of the monocoat. yours have depth. Why the HB lead ? for darker line or softer point ?

Did you clear coat the whole thing when you were done ?

Did you make (or have made) you decals or are the stock item of some vendor ??

I have some nose art that I want to use but haven't decided if I should try to make my own decals.

thanks

Joel