I added the weight to balance the tank...notice the balancing pictures in the previous post.

If I take out a link, then the track is too short. I'm in that point where I really need an idler adjuster to fine tune it. [:@]

Was able to make a little more progress on the Bulldog.

I taped the weights in place. The goal was place the weight as far forward as I could to get the most out of the balancing weight.

Because I don't want the control board bouncing around inside the tank, I found a way that I thing will work to hold it in place above the weights and allow air to move around it. Hopefully, it doesn't end up too close to the upper hull. Anyhow, I glued a three thumb tacks so that they fit inside the same posts that used to be the screw posts for the RX-13. Just put the thumb tacks into the posts, put glue on the back of the thumb tacks and put the RX-18 box on them positioned the way that you want it to sit.

I also want more air flow in the rear of the tank. I have some 480s that I want to use with the steel 3:1 gears that I got a while ago from RCCommand. But, I need air flow. So, the first step is to open the engine grates more. I've finished a few of them. I carved a little of the plastic away and the ran a micro-file through them to give them some semblance of uniformity. You can see the before and after in the photos. I finish the rest later. Next goal is to find a way to install a fan under the grates to draw air (and heat) out of the rear of the tank.

Comments are welcome.

Philpat,
Maybe this will be a little late to help on the silver track sections? Here is what I did with my PZ IV that came with the shiny metal tracks. First I tried the vinegar soaking. On the first soak, I wasn't to happy so I tried it again. Came out a little darker, but still to metal looking ( I could have painted them here and they would probably look good) I then used Perma Blue gun bluing. It came out perfect ( see the pics in the thread PZ IV outside ). One thing you want to do is scrub the tracks really good if you use the vinegar wash first. It seems that it produced a bit of scale that the bluing didn't cover, so I blued them again after scrubbing them. Hope this helps you and anyone else who has the shiny tracks.

Jim

Philipat: On the vents...

I thought of clearing some on my tanks, and I'd pondered microfiles, but they were too thick. Another way to open 'em up is that thread-saw method, though you go though considerable thread that way.

Then I thought: Why not use a coping saw blade? [link=http://www.nscalesupply.com/images/ZON/ZON-35-600.gif](this wee beastie)[/link]
(even though they call it a mini-hacksaw, its more of a coping saw)

Just push the lock-pin out of the end of the blade, get enough clearance by drilling holes, and then saw it like a file, basically cutting the slot open. Just be sure to guide it well, other it will narrow the vent-blade to either side. I deliberately picked up some cheap blades for tasks like this, with the highest tooth-count I could get. If you're good, you don't even need starter holes... just start sawing on the indentation, and it'll wear thru!

Blades from a jewelers saw can be used too, but are harder to control unless you clamp a small fragment in the jaws of an hobby-knife handle (X-Acto or otherwise) I even bought extra blades for my scroll-saw (you could use mini-bandsaw blades too, if thin enough) for this task when I break 'em...

A few companies even make photo-etch blades for this task, Verlinden being the one I remember off-hand, though I think X-Acto or one of the other hobby-blade suppliers makes 'em to. and even some of the razor saws [link=http://www.nscalesupply.com/zon/ZON-Saws.html](examples seen here)[/link] are super thin, and with the stiffener-back removed, can do the same.

Just idly thinking while incarcerated in this den of illness and infection...
WhiteWolf (hoping to be liberated Monday)

PS: Anyone make an idler-adjuster for the Bully? Anyone able to prod the makers for one?

Glad you liked the bluing.

Thanks for the feedback and the suggestions.

I didn't realize how thick the micro-files were until I did a couple of the grate slats. I don't mind it as big as it is for the center grates. They are larger grates and should probably have larger openings. But, I'll try the hacksaw idea for the side grates. I have a mini-hack saw as well as a jeweler's saw and the xacto saw blades. The Xactos weren't for me on this job. But the other two are worth a try. Thanks for the suggestion.

I think I can hide the error or minimize it with some screen material glued to the underside.

RE: tracks....the photos don't do them justice. They're actually a smoke color. The metallic nature comes through, but they are blackened. I bought them already blackened from RCCommand a year ago. According to the forum members that were tankers in the 1:1 scale, tanks' tracks were minimally painted if at all during the era of these tanks. So, some blackening is all I'm looking for. That said, I like the bluing idea. Where do you get it at? Would a Wal-Mart carry it?

Philpat,
I bought the bluing at a sporting goods store in the hunting dept. I'm sure walmart has it as well.

Philipat:

If you aren't too clumsy with your mitts (as I am at times...) you could fabricate a replacement vent from sheet tin.

Materials:

I'd suggest trying something like soda-can material first, but it may be to soft (remember, some can skins are thicker, so shop around at the supermarket. The tinned carbonated fruit juice cans seem to be heavier, but food tins are way too thick (except for 1/8 scale or up) Plastic generally won't work, and you'll see why in a sec.

How-to:

First, scuff the metal surface with very-fine flint/emery paper to remove any of the fluid-protective surface. If you don't get this off, you'll have a devil of a time getting any paint to adhere to it (even CA won't stick!) You may want to test this first, before going to all the trouble and finding it won't take paint....

Hint:

I've found that using that Micropore paper tape to lay the pattern for the cuts/folds is great, and any adhesive can be removed with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol.
You could even leave it on, and paint over it, but sand it first to take the fuzz off the paper.

1 ) Measure the vent area, and mark that size on your sheet of metal. If you have a PE folder, add a millimeter or two to each side for a fold-in edge stiffener (this is terribly difficult to do without a PE fold tool) If you are doing this, do it now. It'll be too hard to do accurately after the vents are made.

2 ) Now mark a strip around the edges thats not to be cut into, as this is the the vent frame, and is what holds the vent blades together.

3 ) Now count your 'blades' on the original, and try to mark as many on the sheet, but you may have to delete one to make the others thick enough to make.

4 ) Now ~carefully~ cut on the vent lines, across the sheet, stopping at the vent-frame border you've marked.

5 ) The final cuts, a small slit at either end of the vent-blades, so the vent can be folded/twisted (this isn't always necessary, depending on the vent style) to form the vent itself.

6 ) Finally, with a pair of tweezers or forceps, carefully twist each vent blade at either end to get the matching angle to the styrene one. You may have to practice a bit to get the twisting done without tearing the vent-blades loose from the support frame.

How's that for a neat idea, eh?

I can also walk you through making hinges without soldering, too (made ones for the Pershing engine deck doors, work gorgeously)

WhiteWolf

Been awhile since I last posted and work on the tank has slowed down. I was starting some work on my PzIII. But, in the meantime, I've finished a few more things.

I've put in the 3:1 steel gear boxes with the 480 motors and a 14T pinion. That gives me scale road speed. I had to adjust the motor mount holes to make it all fit though. I also had to remove the motor collars to get them to fit into the tank. Now, it has great scale speed and controllability on difficult terrain. The downside is that adding the 73d link in the tracks has made them just a tad too long and they slip off easily, especially on the left side. 72 is way too short and 73 is a bit too long. Need to find some idler adjusters...

Note: 14T pinion is the same pinion used by the Duratrax Vendetta lineup. There are several sizes in that line up from about 9T to 16T; so, you've got some options.

Did some reorganizing of the interior. I cut the top off the battery box and relocated the switches to the inside. The RX-18 sits to the side and the speaker sits on top of the weights. At one point I tried putting the RX-18 into the same posts as the RX-13, but I used thumb tacks instead of screws. That placement didn't work as well, though; so, I moved it entirely. I had to splice the tail lights into the headlight wiring since there isn't a plug for them in the RX-18 like there is in the 13 and 14. Actually, I soldered them into the upper hull plug...that was a pain.

Finally, for added realism, I tweaked the antennas. The real antenna was shortened and I put some heat shrink on it to give it a thicker and tactical appearance. I took the antenna from my PzIII and did the same things to it. Because, I got a side antenna for the PzIII, I had the nub available to install where HL left the stubby grey plastic antenna. On both antennas, I put a small dolop of bed liner on the ends to seal the heat shrink and give the appearance of the ball that is on most US military antennas. The heat shrink over the coiled ends gives the appearance of a base. It's not exactly right but close enough. Oh, and using the HLantennas means that they can come off easily for storage and transportation. (link to the correct length: www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10343592/tm.htm)

MTF as I get to it...work and life have been busy.

lovely job philipat thanks for the kind words reference my NZ dog glad it was of some help to you the track issues are about right and why i made adjustable idlers for my NZ dog might just see them from this pici also did the metal rimmed idler wheel on that build

Does the Pro Max 480s work with a Mato 3:1 Gearbox? Im thinking of upgrading that on my Bulldog.

All those tiny little screws I'd go blind and a bit mad trying to fit them!!!

Rob...great to see you back on the forum.  I really enjoyed your build.  I've got my brother drilling out some bolts to try a different sort of idler adjuster.  We'll see if it comes out.  Do you have a materials list and specs for your hull reinforcement?  I'd have rather taken out my battery box and opened the space, but I don't have the stuff or the tools here to build that sort of reinforcement setup.  My brother might...

@TeTris...don't know.  But Phil at RCTankWars sells both and could tell you.

@Eggman...I thought so at first, but it wasn't so bad.  Gonna try some wire bending for turret handles and making some hinges.  Rob's build has a good tutorial. 

There was a modeler from Thailand ( I believe ) who made his own adjustable idler. Unfortuanaly I can't remember the thread. but I'm sure you could do a search. Great looking bulldog.

Jim

it's great to hear from you as well philipat

the hull strengthening was achieved using some ally angle from a local D.I.Y store
i used 20mm dia angle and used the spring fixing points (as you have) to secure the angle then bolted together
a couple of pop rivets on the front angle plate and your good

i made plast-card strips to cover the hole left by the battery box removal and loads of filler

some more piccies

Hi,
The gentleman who made the track tension adjuster is a norwegian not thai, and this is his clip.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-pZKYvicEA[/youtube]

Siam,
My apologies. At least I got the country of origine correct.

Jim

Hi Jim,
It's me who have to say sorry to you , because I posted the clip that is not mine and it might mislead you.
Sorry to all,
siam.

Siam,
No problem, now lets hope we didn't upset the Norwegian. I here mad Norwegians are are to handel, LOL. Truley, to the Norwegian modeler that shared his great idea with us thanks.

Jim

Rob, I don't have the ability to do pop rivets...but, the idea looks simple enough and could be done with bolts and nuts.  Thanks for the pics.

Jim, that's the adjuster I'm aiming for.<br type="_moz"/>