Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all,

I recieved my Ele-bee today, and Ive got a couple questions, before digging my hobbyknife into the precious EPP.

The guys from windrider.com.hk gave me 6cell 2100mAh NiHM packs insted of 7cell 800mAh NiCD ones. Will that be much of a problem?

When checking out what came with the ele-bee, I discovered 2 propellors, both of different length. Perhaps its got to do with cellcount and motor size, ive got 6cells on a speed400
They look an awfull lot like gunterprops, but they dont have any writing on it, stating a typenumber or something. The manual doesnt mention anything about it. So thats the second question. What prop do I need to use?

Also, im wondering wich way is best to put in the carbon spar. Should I shove it in the wingcores centre hole, or into the slot ontop of it? Both seem to fit just fine, except when I put it in the centre hole, it seems to fit a bit more snug.

Would it be smart to glue the 2 halves together before putting on the patches of nylon tape?

Can I keep the reciever antenna completly embedded into the wing, or does it have to stick out the tip?

Should I run the motor in a glass of distilled water, then dry and lube it, or should I use the method with 2 hours of dry running on 3volt?

Also, is the tubelike whistle SUPPOSED to sound like a duck stuck in a garbagedisposal? [sm=bananahead.gif]


Thanks,
Sven

radcast2

My Feedback: (1)

I find it hard to believe that no one has answers for all these questions.
I am also interested since I am looking to buying a Ele Bee as my next plane as I plan to get awya from the normal planes and do just wings.
Freakazoid I would like to know what you decided on these questions for future use.

Thanks

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

My wing is still laying on the shelve. Apparently you need kingsize servo arms to even get above the foam. And the local hobbyshop coulnd help me with it. [&:] So Ill have to work something out to fix that.

I think ill put the spar in the inner hole, because that has less chance of popping out like in the top groove.

I found some M3 77 spray glue, so no harm in glueing some bits I guess, it ll only strengthen the wing.

Ill curve my antenna up and down the wing, just like on my picojet, and maybe put a neutralising weight on the other end of the wing, to counter balance the wire so you dont get an odd one side pull.

Ive heard running the motor in distilled water for a few secs, then flush it out with oil, would be best for it.

Also I figured having a bigger propellor for a small battery would benefit the thrust to haul all that weight around.

And the pipe whistle... that sound is supposed to be an angry Bee. Atleast thats what Mr. Ming Lou said.


All in all, the weather in holland has been dreadfull.. No way Im going to maiden anything in that hellweather. I think this one will be for a quiet winter day, or even sometime spring.


Good luck with your Ele-Bee, windriders delivers a good quality kit, that has everything youll need (except for those freaking long servo arms.).

FrogTwat

Guys i bought an Ele-bee and after putting it together i cant see how it can fly... its heavy and extremely hard to get the c of g right..... i havent flown it yet but will re-post onec i have...
I recievef two props too but they were both the same size
i inserted the rod INTO the foam in the two pre-formed holes inside the wing i cant see why you would cut into the epp if the hole is pre-molded
i only used the tape as any glue would add to the weight of the wing
Why the hell would you put the motor into water???? that sounds silly to me. sorry
HAHAHAH love the duck call tho!

Anthony

radcast2

My Feedback: (1)

Definitely keep us posted as I am severally torn between getting the EleBee, Unicorn, Slinger.........but I am leaning towards the EleBee and te Slinger just because of the ease of build.

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

I still havent gotten around to building the ele-bee. Im still stuck on the Servo arms. [] Ive been badgering the local shops for them. I phoned around and found one who claimed to have a long arm that should fit, so I went over there like my butt was on fire, only to find out it didnt fit on my particulair servo.. Beh.

Meanwhile I flew the B4 Vulcan I got for free, but thats just a kiddy wing. [:P] Fly's perty funny though.

steve69

You only need the very top hole of the servo horn to be sticking out of the wing and you put a small bend in the rod to arc over the wing section, it doesnt need to be sticking out loads as you seem to think (sorry that sounds like I'm being rude, it's just you cant put voice inflection into type)
I used a standard long Futaba 4 way servo horn on mine and cut off the remaining bits that arnt used.

I will try put a pic later if you need of how far mine stickout.

e_lm_70

Hi Freakazoid,

As stated before you don't need any extra long arm ... even if it will be a nice to have ... I have found them in www.lindinger.at ... but I have not order them ... since it is quite ok also with standard long servo arm (what I got with my JR ... some Hitec have longer arm by default).

On rcgroup there is a thread about this wing where Ming, the producer/designer/etc is also active on helping in this type of issues.

Personally I had a lot of trouble with the crappy propeller included in the kit ... I have ended up using a 7x3 coming with cheap/creappy firebird XL ... the propeller is one of the few things that is till working fine out of this cheap RTF.

The suggested CoG is not really a must ... you can go down up to 7.5 without problem ... and 8" is little bit more challanging ...

I'm also using a quite heavy battery ... but still it fly quite well ... only problem is the motor that get too much hot after 10minutes of full power .... (I'm using a 4800mAh 2S LiPo battery ... I want to have more the 30min of fly time)

e_lm_70

P.S: The US reseller for this wing has a far better PDF manual online ... the included manual that I got is 100% crap !

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

The problem is, my standard servo arm doesnt stick out.. at all! [&:] So it would kinda have to arc into the wing itself to even get there.

Im using stock 7cell NiHm. Because im a first time wing flyer, and I dont really need all that power yet.

And yes, the China manual is a seriously mowed down USA manual. The one from atlanta hobbies kicks ass (thanks cliff!).

I think my wingcores are a different model, because mine have both 2 internal holes and a slot in the top to put spars in. I guess its upgradable when you are going with a faster setup to prevent wingflap? Should I bother with it right away, or can I add them later on since you dont need glue on an ele-bee? Or do you think this wing wont even survive my first year as a winger?

Also, do I need to counterbalance the antenna wire? Or is it hardly noticable?

radcast2

My Feedback: (1)

I beleive that most will recommend the carbon fiber props if using the stock speed400
http://www.atlantahobby.com/shopexd.asp?id=464

e_lm_70

No you don't need to conterbalance 0.5 grams of antenna wire !

Yes ... whatever you do with your wing ... don't warry ... it can take all the possible punish without getting a single scratch ...(but be sure you have put all the reinforced type around the wing as already suggested in the chinese manual.)

As well you can update the servo arm, even in a 2nd time, just cut the protection type around the servo postion, and take care to extact the servo without damaging the EPP support.

Anyhow, in my case with short sermo arms, I have little bit cut the EPP in the path that bring the link to the elevon ... even if the link is sliding over the wing ... since there is the type in the middle there is not much noticiable resistance.


e_lm_70

e_lm_70

Sure the Cardon Fiber props are better ,... but the 7x3 don't need any adapter , it stick very solidly (not like the included props) and it is just about right about power delivery ....
in additional the 7x3 where aready available ... so if other have been comming from the Firebird or clone of them ... they should have already this nice prop.

e_lm_70

Dave 700

Ele-Bee/Ele-Queen Bee

Tested the whistles while driving the car. The tube whistle (quacker) sounds like a sick duck or a dying frog. It starts at about 8mph. The slot whistle starts making noise at about 16 mph (25 kph) and reaches full volume at just over 30 mph (45 kph).

I have a Queen Bee and the standard servo arms are too short. I used the Du-Bro Heavy Duty servo arms which are much longer. They are available for Airtronics(Sanwa), Futaba and JR(Graupner).

My wing loading is around 6 oz/sq ft without power and 7 oz/sq ft with power. I am using a Turbo 600, 2.8:1 gearbox and a 12/6 folding prop which I had sitting on the shelf. I am using a 3s2p (about 3600ma). Haven't flown it yet but motocalc gives it decent perfomance.

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

Queenbees are realy awesome, I saw some videos on a powered version, its sick.
But it seems a little sluggish, wich is no wonder with that HUGE size.
I preffer mine to be a little nimble when I feel a bit frisky and want to slam some rolls and hoops besides some leasurely swings around the park at glidespeed.

Ive been looking around some more about servos and arms, and picked up some questions along the way. Will I be in for trouble when I use regulair plasticgear servos? Is it advisable for beginner wingflyers to use brass gears? Ive also seen something about "servo savers". Are these worth it, and will they fit? They seem to be a little thickheaded and short armed.

I allready found a nice use for the duck whistle though. Try putting it in the grill of your dads car. [&:]

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all,

Just recieved new servo arms from a guy around here on the forum, and theire perfect!!
If youre listening, please contact me! I lost your PM and I cant remember your nick. []
3 Letters, with a P and a W in somewhere. Maybe someone knows him? Mr. Ron Plunkett.

They stick out perfectly:


Look how misserably my old one is, compared to the ones I got from him:


All I can say for now is THANK YOU SO MUCH! I would like to pay you for it, but Im still trying to track you down. :P

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

Im building it now, and I ran into a little question, can someone please respond quick, so I dont have to clean up all the mess?
I want to finish it today. [8D]

Ive been cutting the slot to push in the antenna wire, but the antenna is waaaay lonnger then the wing.
What do I do now? Just swing it around and go back to the middle of the wing? Or do I let it hang out or something?

Looky here:


A Ho ho merry Xmas to all,
Sven Talboom

EDIT: Never mind, take all the time you want... I just bumped into one of my elevons, and apparently.. balsa breaks EASILY. [:@]DOH
Ordered new ones for only 5 dollars, and ordered a 7cell 600mAh NiCD along with it, to accompany my 2 slow-but-long-flight 6cell 2100mAh NiHM packs.

Gazza2001

its up to you would u like the antenna to be visable? if so just let it hang off the winglet if not turn it round and keep on digging out the EPP towards the root
if using lipolys you might see the ele bee be very tail heavy i seen one on the weekend they fly really nice but the guy who i seen fly it just went out and brought a 6v motor and 3cell lipolys does that tell ya something? i think hes personal aim is to turn it into a rocket!

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

That does tell me he likes to buy a new motor every weekend. [&:]

Gazza2001

he will be ok with the 6v and 3cell as long as he uses throttle management and doesnt get the motor to hot

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

True. But it wont add to the life of the motor though.

Also, I think im not going to like my first ele-bee flight, as I got suckered into buying 2 of those 6cell NiMH sticks.. And Ive heard some REALLY bad stuff about ele-bee's and 6 cells... Whats your opinion on this?

Gazza2001

ok the ele bee was designed to run on 9.6v i have seen one fly on 8.4v i would say any lower than 8.4v your up s... creek without a paddel! this is where i asked ming a question on the ele bee and got no response he stated the ele bee can be flown on "2cell lipolys" but yet it takes 9.6v to power it as it was made so 2cell lipolys wont be enough 3cell will burn the motor out how do u win? the ele bee i fixed up and got flying for a guy flew nice on 2cell 2300mah Li-ion (same as lipolys) but didnt stay up for long and it was on the slope with abit of lift i would say in a park on 6cell you will have people laughing at you as u walk out of the park with your head down! 7cell is only OK not acceptable for my this wing is to big for the motor unless used with 8cell's or drop the motor to a 6v on 7cell

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

What should I do? Can you please give me a cheap setup advice? (prop, motor, pack) I would like to keep the ESC. I dont mind going lipo, but im afraid ill toast them. I could go lipo and brushless, but heck, you can even make a dried up cowpie take off if you invest enough money. But my aim was to keep it cheap.

Im feeling a little ripped off by ming now... I payed good money for the electric kit + extra batterypack, to boot. And now it turns out that kit sucks?
I wont buy from windrider again.. Im getting more and more dissapointed about my purchase every time I look something up about it on the web..

Gazza2001

just buy the 9.6v (8cell) pack from windrader and you will be right you havent gone lipolys so just stick to nimh it will save alot of hastle adding ballast (lead) etc... keep the stock motor

Freakazoid

My Feedback: (1)

Thats even more stupid. Windrider doesnt offer 8cells packs! [&:] 7cell 600mAh NiCd is the best they can do.

Gazza2001

this is the only one seems they only have 9.6v (8cell) for the mini bee

Mini Bee Ni-MH 4\5 3A 9.6V 650 mAh battery
Model No : W604
Price : US$ 8
Shipping & handling : US$ 3